Bugzman

I hate doing this, but i cant seem to kick this problem. hopefully one of you guys can get me past this smog test so i have 2 years to do a AHU diesel swap and get a smog exempt from California.

i'm getting really High HC at 15 MPH and 25MPH. about 4 times higher at 15 and 2 times at 25. I don't have a print out because i became friends with the guy at the smog shop and he lets me run the truck on Manuel mode so i don't have to pay.

the truck runs well other then a roughish idle, but man does it stink. like almost pure gas smell out the tail pipe. sometimes sulfer smell too.

heres some info.
1985 22RE 305K, 105K on a rebuild
35's with 5.29s
2.25 exhaust


Mods:
trail Gear 50 State header
trail gear intake intake tube and cone filter

recently replaced:
New injectors. LCE
new O2 sensor.
New Cat
New Spark Plugs.
New TPS
adjusted the AFM back to stock( i run it 2 notches for more power normally, re set computer)
fuel filter
radiator
coolant temp sensor

recently cleaned and checked:
throttle body
intake
exhaust gaskets
adjusted TPS
EGR cleaned
vacuum leaks (idle drops when one is unplugged)
timing at 5 SC (my guy told me not to adjust timing to try and pass)

my smog guy will pass me visual things. but i really want make the truck run right not just pass the test.
i'm out of ideas to check. from what i get the truck is running rich. I got the Cat nice and hot before testing which cleaned up my CO which i failed the first test. but it still leaving my HC. so what makes 22RE run high HC?

osv

1)check for codes.
2)did you test egr operation? put vacuum on the egr with the engine at idle, the motor should stumble or even die... even drawing vacuum with your lungs is enough.

Bugzman

no codes right now, the first test ran, the tech got an O2 sensor code that only come on for a second. I replaced the sensor it seemed to fix the problem. Ill test the EGR tonight and see if its functioning.

hobo9912

did you fix it? I am basically having the exact same problem but the one part i see you didnt check or replace is the Air flow meter. Mine tested bad for resistance. Going to replace that, but otherwise THE EXACT same symptoms. Here are my smog results


This is the plug on the AFM where I am testing for resistance to change while moving the door. My AFM went to full closed (no resistance) immediately and didn't change at all when moving the door. Waiting on a new (used) one to try.

SENOR NOODLES

Looks like your cat is trying to hide a rich mixture. Maybe cold start injector leaking. Stuck open fuel injector. put a fuel pressure gauge on it, and see if the injectors bleed off. if they do, you can probably look inside the spark plug hole and see which one. would probably have to crank the engine a little by hand to open the intake valves.

Have you tried adjusting the valves? Stuck open, or too tight, will do similar stuff. If one of these is the issue, I would be sure to change the oil after the fix to get the fuel out of the oil. you need to concentrate the cause of the CO before you work on dropping the hC's. HC's could be tune up relate, fuel soaked oil, or an inop air injection system if yours has one.

I would start this order.
1, check valves. .008" intake, .012" exhaust assuming stock cam. need a 12mm wrench and flat head screw driver along with feeler gauges. Make sure the half round seal at the back of the head didn't fall off and land on the bellhousing before putting the valve cover back on...….messy.
2. check for stuck open injector. More expensive to do because fuel gauge.

test for egr is not needed. if nox is low, it is working. If it were, you wouldn't have CO up.

hobo9912

Well first I am going to replace the AFM because it didn't test out as working. I would assume that may likely be the culprit causing a lot of the other symptoms (way too rich) and having trouble starting hot. Then once I replace that I will definitely go through your checklist, but being a brand new rebuilt engine and my friend being a mechanic of 20+ years I would hope he had adjusted the valves correctly etc.

SENOR NOODLES

OK. I just dealt with one recently. Able mechanic, Body man. but did not know Toyotas. pretty much a chevy guy. all cylinders had tight exhaust valves and some intakes were too tight. it had between 8 psi and 80 psi. something like cylinder 4 30 psi, cylinder 3 30ish psi, cylinder 2 had about 80, cylinder one, barely came off the needle with a compression gauge.
Engine would only run if foot on the gas, takes forever to start, stinks like ass.
it was the valves were too tight.

A mass air meter could cause all sorts of issues. I have seen a bad or failing alternator take out the afm.

Bugzman

my original issue was fixed by a valve adjustment, exhaust valves were tight by about 2 or 3 thou. low compression in 2 cylinders was the way i found out. put them back to spec and passed with flying colors.