22r, how to set the timing
02-04-2009, 12:20 AM
#21
Registered User
Well it shouldn't feel stiff. The one that is moving is the choke flap and the other is the throttle secondary. I don't know why they don't move... flaps like this are very active on 4 barrel chevy carburetors. Why not these?
My air valves on the top don't move either... and the worst part of it all is this carburetor isn't even heavy enough to anchor my boat. So... its pretty much useless. I don't know wtf Aisin was thinking with this one. I've been trying to get the choke to work for the last year... no such luck.
If you look at random tune-up specs featuring any model of any make within that given time frame: there will be seperate columns for timing (and the like) based on California or Federal smog equipment setups.
So for the 22r, I MAY or MAY NOT be wrong. But in general retrospect, that IS how the tune-up system works for older engines.
Now quit being the big man behind the keyboard. Insults were absolutely unnecessary and you were way out of line for that one.
Last edited by XtraSlow_XtraCab; 02-04-2009 at 12:23 AM.
02-04-2009, 04:45 PM
#23
well it seemed no matter what i did for the timing my truck was lacking a ton of power. I went ahead and adjusted it by ear. I went until the motor began to 'ping' and then I backed it off until it quit and it ran like a champ like that. I'm thinking there must be something wrong w/my vacuum system because if i look at a timing light the timing w/the hoses connected is way past 12*. It runs for now so I'm not in any hurry to find the solution to the possible vacuum issue.
02-05-2009, 12:25 AM
#25
Registered User
I apologize.
But, for what it's worth, I wouldn't take offense to what someone you dont know, says from behind a keyboard. Just take it in stride or ignore.
I mean, if we all didnt do that, Abecedarian might of been BANNED by now. And I will be the first to admit, I enjoy both his attitude and information. Which reminds me of a specific FAA Examiner I know, TOTAL A**HOLE but man, I don't regret a moment I spent with that guy, learned more from him in that one day than I did in months training.
What RPM are you adjusting your timing at livesoccer? And is the motor warm or cold? 12 deg isn't excessive, sounds about perfect. You should be able to disconnect the vac advance hoses and it should fall to exactly zero.
Last edited by drew303; 02-05-2009 at 12:30 AM.
02-05-2009, 12:32 AM
#26
Registered User
IME, having the distributor off a tooth in either direction... I've never gotten the timing close either way, other than the distrib being on the tooth it should be on.
Not saying it's not possible, but of all the motors ive worked on and done this on it's never worked for me.
TDC, the rotor should point to 10/11oclockish, when you put the distrib in tho the rotor should be about 12oclock, it'll turn to the left as the worm gear slips in.
Not saying it's not possible, but of all the motors ive worked on and done this on it's never worked for me.
TDC, the rotor should point to 10/11oclockish, when you put the distrib in tho the rotor should be about 12oclock, it'll turn to the left as the worm gear slips in.
02-05-2009, 06:34 AM
#27
Registered User
Yeah when my disty was off a tooth, I didn't have a timing light. It would run with it turned all the way one direction, and if I tried to move it a little the other direction it would start stalling, so I'm guessing you're right and you probably wouldn't be able to get to 0* if it was off a tooth. The more I actually use my brain & think about it I guess if you can reach all those numbers, 0* up to 12*, then then the disty must be in right, right? I'm still figuring all this stuff out.
So if the timing is set right, and he's sure the chain isn't off...So much it could be after a head gasket job.
So if the timing is set right, and he's sure the chain isn't off...So much it could be after a head gasket job.
02-05-2009, 10:21 AM
#28
Well it runs pretty good now, but the timing is way past 12* w/the hoses connected. Although when I pull the hoses (2 of them) off the dist. setup it seems only one has an effect on the sound of the motor. Maybe the other isn't doing its job (not working properly)? I can drive it around and it seems pretty good to me right now. Here are the symptoms that tell me it's not quite right yet:
When it is started up and running it has a lack of power in the low rpm until it has ran for about 5-7 minutes and it is mostly better, but I still don't think 100% because i will still get a slight feeling of power loss in the same situation that doesn't seem quite normal. It's not an excessive loss, but I can tell when going up a hill, I must shift at a higher RPM than I did before I took everything apart otherwise it has a tendency to bog down or want to stall. I don't think it has to do w/the actual motor or anything wrong w/it. I think it has to be in the vacuum system and/or the carb.
I don't think it's the dist. being off a tooth because I have adjusted it to just about every possible way and this is by far the best it runs like this and starts super easy and sounds good on the start and the rotor positioning is just as everyone describes it should be. I'm thinking it's the vacuum system. Anyone know anything about troubleshooting it?
When it is started up and running it has a lack of power in the low rpm until it has ran for about 5-7 minutes and it is mostly better, but I still don't think 100% because i will still get a slight feeling of power loss in the same situation that doesn't seem quite normal. It's not an excessive loss, but I can tell when going up a hill, I must shift at a higher RPM than I did before I took everything apart otherwise it has a tendency to bog down or want to stall. I don't think it has to do w/the actual motor or anything wrong w/it. I think it has to be in the vacuum system and/or the carb.
I don't think it's the dist. being off a tooth because I have adjusted it to just about every possible way and this is by far the best it runs like this and starts super easy and sounds good on the start and the rotor positioning is just as everyone describes it should be. I'm thinking it's the vacuum system. Anyone know anything about troubleshooting it?
Last edited by live4soccer7; 02-05-2009 at 10:24 AM.
02-05-2009, 11:22 AM
#29
Registered User
How's your compression?
Checking for correct vacuum hose hookup and vacuum leaks and checking for proper carb operation isn't too hard, so check all that out too.
http://www.bluebassdesign.com/boonin/carb_faq/
Checking for correct vacuum hose hookup and vacuum leaks and checking for proper carb operation isn't too hard, so check all that out too.
http://www.bluebassdesign.com/boonin/carb_faq/
02-05-2009, 11:34 AM
#30
thanks for the info. My compression should be good as it was good before I did the hg job. I'm thinking it's the hoses and carb. I'm going to take a look at the link thoroughly, but it'll be a couple days before I can and I'm going to have to order up some tools from somewhere.
02-05-2009, 12:07 PM
#31
Registered User
did you adjust the mixture at all at some point? this would of required drilling out the metal plug that hides the mixture screw.
check for vac leaks, use some starter fluid and spray it (aiming) around the intake and base of the carb. If motor speeds up, you got a leak.
check for vac leaks, use some starter fluid and spray it (aiming) around the intake and base of the carb. If motor speeds up, you got a leak.
02-15-2009, 12:12 AM
#35
I still have the timing issue. Although, i was able to time it by ear so that it would run well enough to get around. I know that the vacuum advance or something is not working correctly though so I decided go though all the hoses and what not around the carb. I found the vacuum switch hose was plugged and not connected to anything and hoses were put in the wrong spots. It's a mess. Here is a pic of the way it is not.
update....
Here is what I have found from taking a look a the manual and putting it against what I see on 22r. It looks like some 'mechanic' didn't know what he was doing cause I've never touch any of these things before and they are messed up. Here is where the hosing are going on my truck.
Absolutely terrible....
Where the light blue is, the part where the hose would attack on the top part of the BVSV valve is broken off and someone put a screw in the top of it to plug it off! They then re-routed that hose as shown in the picture w/the red line! I'm going to hopefully get a new valve tomorrow and get the entire mess figured out and then re-do the hoses and hopefully it will run a whole lot better.
I do have a question though:
Where the hose comes off of the VCV valve, the one I have a brown line drawn from, where does that lead to? Or does the frayed end like that mean that it is just left open and not have the end connected to anything?
update....
Here is what I have found from taking a look a the manual and putting it against what I see on 22r. It looks like some 'mechanic' didn't know what he was doing cause I've never touch any of these things before and they are messed up. Here is where the hosing are going on my truck.
Absolutely terrible....
Where the light blue is, the part where the hose would attack on the top part of the BVSV valve is broken off and someone put a screw in the top of it to plug it off! They then re-routed that hose as shown in the picture w/the red line! I'm going to hopefully get a new valve tomorrow and get the entire mess figured out and then re-do the hoses and hopefully it will run a whole lot better.
I do have a question though:
Where the hose comes off of the VCV valve, the one I have a brown line drawn from, where does that lead to? Or does the frayed end like that mean that it is just left open and not have the end connected to anything?
Last edited by live4soccer7; 02-15-2009 at 12:25 AM.
02-15-2009, 01:28 PM
#36
after fixing off the hoses, the truck seems to be running a lot better at the correct timing, before the timing had to be way off for it to work well enough to drive around. The real test will be a cold start and run. I will post up results when I do that later today. I must change out a coolant hose after it cool down though.
