Flek23

Ok, here's where I'm at. I got an 83 with a carberated 22r. I blew the head gasket on I-75 a while back. I was crusin' along at about 70 and she started bogging down on me. I downshifted to 4th and was okay for a sec and then bogged out again. I looked down and the temp was pegged. I rolled of to the shoulder and spent the night there until my buddy could get there with a trailer (thanks a billion Trent). so I spent some time talking around and what I've come up with is that the lower old soft hose collapsed and cut itself off causing the cooling system to cavitate while the radiator built up enough pressure to pop the top off and blow that hose. Since, the engine will roll over but there is no resistance and she won't start or fire so zero compression would appear to be the situation. I've already purchased a new radiator and am about to make a purchase from LC. I talked to the guys at engnblder about the dual row conversion for my 83 and they indicated there was an issue with the oil pump and that I would not be able to put the metal rails for a timing chain replacement. LC says they have a drive spline for the oil pump and metal rails to boot. So since I'm taking the head off for a new gasket I figure its a good time for a timing chain as well. I plan to replace the water and oil pump while I'm at it and maybe new rings but the old girl only has 89,000 original miles on her so we'll see what the cylinder walls look like. I'm throwing this out there because I'm a bit of a novice and I want my old "roller-skate" to get the best I can give her. So here's my shopping list...by all means tear into me if anyone thinks I'm erronious in my selection or diagnosis. -High torque starter -Head bolt set -Dual row timing chain set -Oil pump drive spline -Pro oil pump -Street water pump -Head gasket set All from LC engineering

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nico

I was in your shoes a few years ago, and I cooked the motor.

If you overheated it bad, the head might be warped (happened to me). So you might want to figure a new (or milled) head into that mix.

Also, you don't need a high-torque starter, unless you go high-compression. The 22R's stock gear-reduction starter does just fine.

What I'd do: head bolts, head gasket, timing chain, water pump, oil pump, front main seal, rear main seal, and maybe head, if necessary.

__________________
1981 4WD SR5 Longbed - 22R - L52 - 4.88's - Detroits - 3" Downey springs - MV-12's - 34" LTB's

myyota

Toyota has two diferent starters for the 22RE, there is a 1.0 KW and a 1.4 KW, i just had to replace the starter on my 86 4Runner and a bought a rebuilt 1.4 KW starter from auto parts warehouse, this was a quality rebuilt denso starter, not some kragen piece of junk, so if you need a new starter i would recomend auto parts warehouse.

Flek23

The starter is actually for my 91 but I had to canibalize from the 83 for now because I have a major problem with the 91. I have replace the starter in the 91 six times and rebuilt it several more. I have replaced the battery cables, the battery, and cleaned the Neutral start switch. Anyway the 83's starter has been working for a few days and unless I start having problems again I will probably put it back in the 83 when the LC starter arrives. The issue with the 91 seems to be related to Temperature (Hot Georgia Sun) and LC's really expensive High Torque Started touts correction to this kind of problem. That's my logic anyway and the starters are interchangeable between the 83 and 91. I need the 91 as a daily driver while I do this restore project so this probably wont be the first and only bandaid fix. I hope I don't sound argumentative, my intention is only to convey the logic in my mind to give folks an opportunity to set me straight.

83

Make sure your block surface is completely flat once you've got the head off, too. Otherwise you'll never get a good seal there. 89,000 is good low mileage, so hopefully you're alright there. But blowing a head gasket does some bad stuff if you overheat enough.

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Zach

'83 Shortbed 4x4
L52HD
Rebuilt & Mostly Stock

Flek23

Zach,
I sat and read through your rebuild corespondance the other night. I have been back and forth with whether or not to go ahead and do a complete rebuild or just the gaskets and timing. I picked something up from reading your process. That is that it will make itself clear as I go along and the illusion that I can go out and buy all the parts at once and be good to go is at best naive. This process is more like an unveiling and I won't know till I get there. It sure was cool the way Bill stuck with you through the tough parts and gave you insight as you needed it.

Flek23

Today I got out the chiltons and the haynes manuals and started disconnecting hoses, wiring, A/C compressor, PS pump, air cleaner, belts, fan and throttle linkage. Going to try to pull the engine this week. Any thoughts on taking out the engine with or without the tranny? Is one less likely to result in damage? is there a significant difficulty difference? working on figuring out how to uploading images to postings.

ocdropzone

Engine removal: I would recommend take it out with the trans attached. Just be sure to use a jack inconjunction with your Engine hoist to slowly lower the transmission when you raise the engine. Than lift out the whole assembly. Others may chime in too.

before you start pulling all the little stuff off, be sure to take pictures and label wires, hoses etc...helps on reassembly instead of wondering 'where the heck does this thing go'

Upload your pictures to a free service like http://photobucket.com/ and than copy and paste the [IMG] code that you will find next to the picture. I use it on several different forums and probably have over a 1000 pictures on it...

__________________
~Robb
'81 Trekker The B4Runner Build
TREKKER Forum
Mini FAQ/Misc Ideas Thread

Flek23

I would like to post the progress on my 83 as I'm going along. For the time being I'm posting progress in the YT Photo Gallery. I bought the engine stand today and now I'm waiting for my neighbor to get home so I can borrow his Hoist. I'll try to have my wife take some pics for others to benefit from my learning curve on the removal.

83

Yes, Bill was great. He wouldn't really let me take a shortcut and end up doing a bunch of work that I would have to do over again because I didn't do everything. If I had just done the timing chain and put it back together I wouldn't be too happy right now.

Good luck! Keep us posted with photos. I've always been told it's pretty crazy trying to get the engine & tranny out together, plus it's a LOT of weight on the chain, so if you do it make sure you've really got things secured. Don't just use the hooks on the head. You've also then got to get the two apart, and now neither is attached to anything so you'll have to find a way to secure one so you can pull the other off while on the floor. Seems like a hassle but I'm sure somebody who's done it will have good ideas for that. I just pulled the engine, then put a jack that was like a tranny jack under the transmission and lowered it down while some people held it steady. I guess a lot depends on what equipment you have and how many people are willing to help.

__________________
Zach

'83 Shortbed 4x4
L52HD
Rebuilt & Mostly Stock

Flek23

Today the engine came out. I decided to pull just the engine and leave the tranny in for now. I placed a 2x4 across the leaf springs to hold up the trans. It was easy to jack right under that so it was already in place once the engine was seperated. After making preperations this week it only took about 20 minutes to pull, remove clutch and flywheel, and mount on engine stand. However it took me four hours driving around town to find bolt's long enough to safely hold the engine on the stand. For some reason I assumed that the bolts from the bell-housing would work. Shame on me for not checking. Head surprisingly "seems" unwarped but shows signs that there was indeed leaking through the gasket. Plastic timing guides were found mostly in the oil pan and timing cover has 16th of an inch groves so maybe new cover. I would venture to say I will need to hone the cylinder walls if not have them rebored. So it will be off to the machine shop tomorrow. This was a great deal easier than I imagined so maybe reassembly will get me cussing. I took a gazillion pictures, some of which are in the YT Member Photo Gallery. Feels good to be moving on this and can't wait to hear that "new" engine purr.

Flek23

Got a guy in town that has a couple 22's in his own driveway and has been doing them for a while. Says $1300 will do everything reassembled if I brought him the short block. $460 if he does all the Machineing and I disassemble and reassemble. Cleaning everything, decking and honeing the block, rework the head to include pressure testing, and polishing the crank as long as it doesn't need to be ground. His kit is $360 w/ timing cover and engnbldr's is $280 shipped but no timing cover and the machinist want's to wait till it arrives to finalize the cylinder bore. I'm finishing disassembly this weekend and taking it to him Tuesday. Much joy!

83

Nice! Good luck. If you go with his kit, find out what he uses for gaskets, etc. I'm sure you read that part of my saga, too. You DON'T want to go through all that and use sub-par parts in your new engine, if you want it to last like a Toyota should. Engnbldr uses only parts that pass his test and he's got pretty high standards.

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Zach

'83 Shortbed 4x4
L52HD
Rebuilt & Mostly Stock

Flek23

Got the engine back today. Wondering what a good solvent for keeping everything clean might be. don't want to use something that might etch a machined surface. Any suggestions. I'm not satisfied with the cleanliness of everything coming back from the machine shop and I'm also painting the block before I put everything back together so I'm in cleaning mode for now.

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Jason

83 SR5 4x4 shortbed (Project)
91 DLX 4x4 xcab auto (Daily Driver)

"Prosperity will have it's season, even when it's here it's going by; when it's gone we pretend we know the reasons, but all the roots grow deeper when it's dry." David Wilcox

Flek23

I'm beginning reassembly and have hit a glitch. Before i go back to the machine shop and make myself look stupid I wanted to bounce it off you all. The thrust washers seem to be way to thick like twice as thick. Is it common to have to go back and forth on thrust washer size or is this an odd thing, did they screw up, or am I just stupid. The Hanes manual indicates they should just slide/rotate in after the crank is seated.

__________________
Jason

83 SR5 4x4 shortbed (Project)
91 DLX 4x4 xcab auto (Daily Driver)

"Prosperity will have it's season, even when it's here it's going by; when it's gone we pretend we know the reasons, but all the roots grow deeper when it's dry." David Wilcox

83

Hmm....did the crank get machined at all? Although I'm not sure that would matter..Where did the rebuild kit come from? If they don't seem like they fit...yeah, might be a screw up.
Oh and I don't have advice for cleaning the block. Mine came back looking like new. I would say brake cleaner since that's what most people use to clean up greasy parts but I'm not completely sure.

__________________
Zach

'83 Shortbed 4x4
L52HD
Rebuilt & Mostly Stock

Flek23

Got the right thrust washers. The kit had the washers for typical 22r and I guess 83's are unique. So I'm back to work.

__________________
Jason

83 SR5 4x4 shortbed (Project)
91 DLX 4x4 xcab auto (Daily Driver)

"Prosperity will have it's season, even when it's here it's going by; when it's gone we pretend we know the reasons, but all the roots grow deeper when it's dry." David Wilcox

Flek23

Got the crank in and torqued. Also got the pistons in today. Maybe rear main seal and timing tomorrow. Bought one of those nifty 12mm/14mm offset box end wrenches too, like it was made for my truck, very cool. I'm using Synergyn Assembly Lube. Not sure yet if I'll use the old timing cover, gonna try using carb cleaner on it and the head probably tomorrow as well.

__________________
Jason

83 SR5 4x4 shortbed (Project)
91 DLX 4x4 xcab auto (Daily Driver)

"Prosperity will have it's season, even when it's here it's going by; when it's gone we pretend we know the reasons, but all the roots grow deeper when it's dry." David Wilcox

stagger_lee

Pics Flek23? I wanna see what you're doin. Post a url between
[IMG][/IMG]

__________________
07 FJ, 6 speed
84 4Runner

83

I agree. It's nice to see some progress in your avatar, but post up some progress pics!

If nothing else, a lot of people who have never seen (and maybe don't care to see) the inner workings of an engine will get a better understanding of how it all works. I hardly took any photos after my teardown because I was too busy worrying about getting it back together & on the road. Kind of wish I had taken more.

__________________
Zach

'83 Shortbed 4x4
L52HD
Rebuilt & Mostly Stock

Flek23

Here are some pictures of the new carpet I got from qualitycarinteriors.com, I bought a dash cover from them too but I sent it back. It really wasn't what I wanted so now I'm trying to get a hold of the guys at justdashes to see if they'll do it.

__________________
Jason

83 SR5 4x4 shortbed (Project)
91 DLX 4x4 xcab auto (Daily Driver)

"Prosperity will have it's season, even when it's here it's going by; when it's gone we pretend we know the reasons, but all the roots grow deeper when it's dry." David Wilcox

Flek23

Didn't get as far with the engine as I'd hoped this weekend. I've decided to replace the timing cover and couldn't get one locally. Also don't have the new head bolts yet and definitely will need new ones. Several bolts have carbon build up and pitting from the head leaks.

While I was getting frustrated at how many things I was ready to do but didn't have the parts to do, the new retrosound model one showed up! So I got into mounting the thing. The fit is slick as assembly lube and I'm stoked. It took some customizing of the brackets but nothing big. A dremel took care of it no prob. Might not be the prettiest install behind the panel but is fully a functional solid fit. More to come as I get it wired up. I'll let y'all now how it sounds.

I'm not hooking up an amp or anything because all I listen to is James Taylor, Johnny Cash, and David Wilcox so I don't really need any boom. But I do want crisp clear sound so I'll let ya know how it goes.





Oh yeah, I also ordered a 4x8 sheet of curly cherry veneer for the dash and steering wheel trim ($$$$$$$$$ four bucks a sq ft x32) I think it will look sweet if I can pull off making the pieces. I took off the old sticker and have been working on a template to cut out the cherry veneer.

__________________
Jason

83 SR5 4x4 shortbed (Project)
91 DLX 4x4 xcab auto (Daily Driver)

"Prosperity will have it's season, even when it's here it's going by; when it's gone we pretend we know the reasons, but all the roots grow deeper when it's dry." David Wilcox

Flek23

Now that I have the new radio mounted I'm not satisfied with how BIG the new knobs are. They are awsome since they are solid metal but I'd rather use the old knobs since they are intact. Problem is that the shafts are different. I'm wondering if anyone has ever seen a shim or any other idea that would make them fit? The old posts are larger and shaped like a star, the new ones are smaller and smooth. I've thought about using an epoxy or something but that might be a little more perminent than I'd like. Especially considering that the dash panel would then become permanent as well.

__________________
Jason

83 SR5 4x4 shortbed (Project)
91 DLX 4x4 xcab auto (Daily Driver)

"Prosperity will have it's season, even when it's here it's going by; when it's gone we pretend we know the reasons, but all the roots grow deeper when it's dry." David Wilcox

ocdropzone

You have got a very clean dash...mine is fubar compared to yours...
that radio is a very nice addition. Does it have a connection for an IPod?

as far as making some shims, might get a hold of Roger Brown AKA: 4Crawler (4crawler.com ) he seems to have machined just about anything for these things...

edit: I wonder if some silicone might work instead of epoxy to retain the knobs. Still pliable but easy to get off it did not work..

__________________
~Robb
'81 Trekker The B4Runner Build
TREKKER Forum
Mini FAQ/Misc Ideas Thread

toydoc

It's hard to tell from the photos but your original pistons look like pop ups or ring tops. Which is what came in the 81-84 22r engines, but the new ones look like flat tops which came in the 85 and up 22r and re engines. If this is the case then you have the wrong rebuild kit, hence the wrong thrust washers. As well the T-chain, guides, and water pump won't fit. The 81-84 22 r and re blocks were a 1/4 inch taller than the 85 and up block and the 81-84 cylinder head is also a taller casting by nearly a 1/4 inch. This will leave your pistons low in the cylinders and cause you to have approximatly a 6:1 compression ratio. The crank, rods, cam, valves, and followers/rockers are common between the two engines, but as to the best of my memory nothing else is.
P.S.
If the block has been decked then the new timing cover should also have the same ammount shaved from it's top. (be sure it's for the 81-84).
If I'm wrong about the pistons then please disregard this message.
Just thought if I saw what I think I did, I could save you some time and money.
Good luck with the build up.
TOYDOC