My 81 pickup
#81
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I have Dynabeads in both my Yota's tires, and I love them. I have an issue with one of the tires or wheel being out of round, but otherwise it's kept my tires balanced no matter what gets into my tread. I got em cause I was tired of losing wheel weights when I wheel it.
#82
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I have Dynabeads in both my Yota's tires, and I love them. I have an issue with one of the tires or wheel being out of round, but otherwise it's kept my tires balanced no matter what gets into my tread. I got em cause I was tired of losing wheel weights when I wheel it.
So im getting really tired of the rubbing and its only been a few days lol. So im gonna order the lift parts today or tomorrow.
This should let me accomplish the rear right?
-Ubolt flip
-chevy spring hanger
-shackle mounts
-chevy 63's with all the hardware
Front is direct bolt up correct? Just need a new driveline possibly.
#84
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More questions!
i looked around but couldnt seem to find anything on brake lines. can you double up the rear brake lines? if not where can extended brake lines be found?
i looked around but couldnt seem to find anything on brake lines. can you double up the rear brake lines? if not where can extended brake lines be found?
#85
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Marlin or Trail-Gear both have extended length DOT rated brake lines, others will too. All-Pro maybe. I got Marlin's cause I was already getting other stuff from them, so I can't say much about other's quality, but as long as they're DOT rated they should be good.
#86
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From what ive been able to find tho it seems that you can link two factory brake lines together. and a buddy of mine has his stock ones still.
#87
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Yeah, in the rear you should be able to, now that I think of it, as it's got male/female ends instead of female/female like the front lines. I think you'll still need longer ones for the front, though. When I went looking for a new clutch line, I eliminated the hard line connected to the slave and went through the brake line book at Napa to find one long enough and with the right flare and threads. You should be able to get the book from them for a few minutes and find some that are long enough for less than Marlin's. If you live near Aloha, the guys at the Napa on Shaw definitely would, and I believe there's a couple Yota guys and maybe even a Yota gal still working there.
Just realized this is kind of an all Oregon thread, with the exception of me. I grew up in Aloha though!
Just realized this is kind of an all Oregon thread, with the exception of me. I grew up in Aloha though!
#88
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Yeah, in the rear you should be able to, now that I think of it, as it's got male/female ends instead of female/female like the front lines. I think you'll still need longer ones for the front, though. When I went looking for a new clutch line, I eliminated the hard line connected to the slave and went through the brake line book at Napa to find one long enough and with the right flare and threads. You should be able to get the book from them for a few minutes and find some that are long enough for less than Marlin's. If you live near Aloha, the guys at the Napa on Shaw definitely would, and I believe there's a couple Yota guys and maybe even a Yota gal still working there.
Just realized this is kind of an all Oregon thread, with the exception of me. I grew up in Aloha though!
Just realized this is kind of an all Oregon thread, with the exception of me. I grew up in Aloha though!
I was just sitting here thinking about this tho and came up with this conclusion/idea.
All the threads and thread lengths are the same for both front and rear. So for the rear i could just buy a replacement brake line from autzone and couple my stock one with the replacement. For the front since the front is female/female, i could just buy another two rear brake lines since they are male/female. the male end of the rear brake line would go into the end of the female stock front brake line and leave me with the female end going to the caliper. Doesnt this all sound correct?
#90
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Just make absolutely sure there's no leaks. I like to have as few connections as necessary so there's fewer things to go wrong. KISS, Keep It Simple, Stupid.
Not that I'm calling you stupid, that's more what I say to myself when I get all kinds of crazy ideas.
Not that I'm calling you stupid, that's more what I say to myself when I get all kinds of crazy ideas.
#91
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I run 33x10.50s (BFG KM2s) with not a single external weight on them. I cruise down the interstate at 70 mph and it's smooth as glass. I run the good quality airsoft pellets inside each one. Go to Walmart and get the quality ones (not the ones that have a visible "seam" in them).
Here's a chart that'll tell you how many (by weight) to put in each tire based on the size of the tire.
http://www.innovativebalancing.com/BigTirechart.htm
I can tell you that I'll never use another lead weight again...
Here's a chart that'll tell you how many (by weight) to put in each tire based on the size of the tire.
http://www.innovativebalancing.com/BigTirechart.htm
I can tell you that I'll never use another lead weight again...
#92
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I run 33x10.50s (BFG KM2s) with not a single external weight on them. I cruise down the interstate at 70 mph and it's smooth as glass. I run the good quality airsoft pellets inside each one. Go to Walmart and get the quality ones (not the ones that have a visible "seam" in them).
Here's a chart that'll tell you how many (by weight) to put in each tire based on the size of the tire.
http://www.innovativebalancing.com/BigTirechart.htm
I can tell you that I'll never use another lead weight again...
Here's a chart that'll tell you how many (by weight) to put in each tire based on the size of the tire.
http://www.innovativebalancing.com/BigTirechart.htm
I can tell you that I'll never use another lead weight again...
Also i have so much airsoft stuff around here from my milsim days. If anybody has any questions about airsoft guns i would be more than willing to offer advice on that haha.
As im sitting here typing the ups truck just arrived with my lift parts
#93
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Just to get this right. I have been reading all of the faqs and writeups i can find on the chevy spring swap and from what ive gleaned i need to mount the front spring hanger ~11inches forward of the stock hanger. The shackle mount need to be moved about 4inches back. i am also probly gonna drop a plumb line just to be sure. Does this all sound correct?
also the parts that just arrived were:
ubolt flip
front hangers
shackle mounts
shackles
bolts
with the exception of longer brake lines this should be all i need to put those bad boys on there right?
also the parts that just arrived were:
ubolt flip
front hangers
shackle mounts
shackles
bolts
with the exception of longer brake lines this should be all i need to put those bad boys on there right?
#94
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Yeah that seems to be about right from when I did mine recently. Depending on how many leafs are in your pack, you might have to do some work on you e-brake. I had to but I'm also running the overload and 4 leafs.
#96
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I got all my stuff from low range off road.
#97
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So yet again thanks to the help of this forum and its members i was able to pick out a welder which i will be purchasing tomorrow. Should have alot of fun with that
During the coarse of this week i hope to get the hangers mounted and the lift on
Here is some pics from a while back i felt like posting. Its up at browns camp during the little snow storms we were getting around here. First pic is one i took at work right after the gears and tires were done.
During the coarse of this week i hope to get the hangers mounted and the lift on
Here is some pics from a while back i felt like posting. Its up at browns camp during the little snow storms we were getting around here. First pic is one i took at work right after the gears and tires were done.
#98
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Updates.
Picked up an almost brand new high steer kit with hydro tapped steering box for a few bills of craigs
If it ever stops raining im gonna go start welding hangers on and hopefully get those chevies hung by the end of the day.
Quick question about welding the hangers to the frame. The hangers are quarter inch thick and the frame is 3/16. So i set up the welder for 3/16 right? any other useful tidbits i should know before melting metal together?
Picked up an almost brand new high steer kit with hydro tapped steering box for a few bills of craigs
If it ever stops raining im gonna go start welding hangers on and hopefully get those chevies hung by the end of the day.
Quick question about welding the hangers to the frame. The hangers are quarter inch thick and the frame is 3/16. So i set up the welder for 3/16 right? any other useful tidbits i should know before melting metal together?
#99
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Got the chevies hung last night. Not completely sure if im happy the way they are sitting. could have been becuase i was staring at them so long lol.
but it seems to me like the springs are angled funny. Anybody else run in to some issues when hanging these springs?
ill post up more info on what im talking about after i go stare at it a while longer
but it seems to me like the springs are angled funny. Anybody else run in to some issues when hanging these springs?
ill post up more info on what im talking about after i go stare at it a while longer
#100
Did you get the spring hangers and the shackle hangers square before welding them solid. Mine have a touch of angle and the still do great. Let me know how your RUF project goes. I just finished mine and have some death wobble to get figured out.