red83taco

Been driving my 83 twd Hilux for over a year now. When the weather started getting colder I started getting a slipping belt sound.

Went to tighten the belts and found three bolts missing for the AC compressor...thought that could have been the problem since is was just flopping around. Got some free Bolts from the Toyota Dealership......a first for everything......and bolted it in propper.

No fix.

Battery finnally died altogether....so I'm gonna change the alternator.

The Haynes Manual is vague on how to change it out.......no good pitures at all.

step1: disconnect battery
step2: 85 and later models
step3: disconect wires
Step4: remove Remove lower swivel bolt and nut.
step5: Remove adjustment bolt and nut
step6: release drive belt and romove alternator.

Questions:
There is so much going on above the Alternator is it best to take it out from underneath?

There are three belts......one goes to drive the fan and has the only adjustment pully I see. The other goes to the AC that I put the Three bolts back in..........the third belt is tucked in the back and goes to the alternator I am not sure how this belt comes off and on? Does it swivle in to place with the Alternator as the adjustment pully?
Anybody know of a good website with some pictures of this process?

Thanks,
Patrick

red83taco

Finally got the green plug to come apart......is there a special tool for these snap plugs?
I had to pry one side at a time without being sure just exactally how it comes apart, I got lucky and did not break anything.

red83taco

I guess I have never seen an adjustment bolt hid away so well in all my life........I can get an eyeball on it......not a wrench......both at the same time?

red83taco

Wow did I get an education.

I could not get the alternator to drop out the bottom without taking off the fan and the lower fan shroud.

I decided to replace all three belts since I was there.

Getting the compressor belt back on took some real wrestling.

Anyhows I got it all back together and started it up........sounded great.

The alternator volt gage was showing overcharging with I thought was normal since
it was charging the battery. No red lights and it overcharged for about 10 minuts.

When I took if for a drive the red batery light had come on and the charging system was showing just under 12 volts???

I put it back in the driveway and checked the belts......they looked to all be turning fine.....no belt niose.

I'm guessing that little box that says "Wells" is a voltage regulator and needs to be changed out as well.

red83taco

Well is there any chance the charge light is wrong?

I relplaced the voltage regulator and it is still the lit up.

Voltage is reading just under 12....when I run the windshield wipers
the volt gage drops a little.....shows a load?

rowdy235

Should be running at a minimum 13.5v IIRC. 12 is too low for having the engine running.


Chances are when it overcharged it blew something.

Probably the easiest thing to check would be the battery, get it load-tested. Then move on to the alternator and get it tested. If that checks out OK, then I'd probably check your "fusible links"

Pumpkinyota

This happened to me, seems likely to be the link between the alternator and the voltage regulator. Good luck hunting it down =)

red83taco

Thanks,

Took it to the "Gasoline Alley" to get it smog tested...........he fixed the charging problem for free.......said it was the plug to the alternator.

So after getting it back from the place I hear the clutch starting to go out......was going to take it in and ask the guy how much he'd charge for a new clutch ect........never got there. On the way back from Wal-Mart the cluch went completely out and the charge light was back on!!!!!

Been parked for three days now.

Looking for a new round town car so I can tackle the clutch at the wiring in the back yard at my conveinience...........Real auto mechanicin takes me about 10 times longer then taking it the shop............what are you gonna do though?

Pumpkinyota

Well, first, the good news:

The 22r has pickoff hooks front and rear, and it lifts out of that engine bay real nice. Also, clutches for that truck are readily available, and fairly inexpensive (probably 75-150 bones depending on where you buy).

The bad news:

Pulling a perfectly running motor just to replace a clutch sucks.

BTW- you should definitely replace your rear main seal while you are back there, fairly inexpensive and good preventative maintenance.

yota7357

you don't need to pull the engine out to do the clutch just take off the rear driveshaft and pull off the transmisson and transfer case. Its pretty easy you just need to be able to wrestle with your transmisson.

toyotabull

For me, pulling the motor was easier to do the clutch than pull the tranny

yota7357

so did you pull the engine with the transmisson stil attached

yota7357

are you sure the clutch went out or just the clutch slave cylender

toyotabull

Pulled just the motor, put a 2 in rachet strap under the tranny and over the frame on each side and tightened it to hold up the tranny. Unbolted the bell housing bolts, the starter, fan and hoses, undid the wiring and exhaust, picked up the motor a couple inches off the mounts, tighten the strap again, wiggle the motor loose and lifted it out. Then I had to let the air out of the front tires to clear the front grille with the oil pan. Oh, I pulled the radiator out also.

81-82toy

refering to your electrical problem I highly suggest doing the GM one wire alternator swap it takes a little figureing out but i tell you what it is a cheep fix and got rid of all my altinator and regulator problems and leaves you set up for swapping out higher ampridge alternators, I also unpluged the relay for the dummy light that is located in the dash on the right side of the glove box then wired in my own dummy light, I know sound like a pain but not realy just some reserch and a little finessing. This was the first thing i did to my toy when i got it. it wouldent charge, and i went threw four alternators till i wised up. I hope this helps, good luck!!!

red83taco

No not sure.........

I looked in the manual when I heard the clutch making whine (I thought it was air in the line) when I pushed in the clutch. Maybe I should replace the slave Cylender first............I replaced the master about a year ago..............

I did not think it was the slave cylender because it did not leak any fluid.....but I'm wondering if the cylinder can be bad and not leak.

Thanks for the tip.

It's been sitting three weeks now.........I'm having a motivation problem.

red83taco

This sounds like a route I'd like to go. I'm going to study on it a bit.....thanks for the tip

red83taco

Cool thanks................need to buy some of those ramp lifts....saw a set at the flea market for 20 bucks and did not buy them.........kinda kicking my cheap self for that.