When I bought this 1986 4wd SR5, one of the previous owners had already pulled the EFI motor and installed a carb motor so I didn't start this mess.

It looks as though they used a rusty pair of scissors to "hack up" the wiring harness coming out of the firewall. Hadmatt54 just did an EXCELLENT job of helping me locate which wires went to the reverse light switch and 4wd indicator! The problem is that I was using the "hot" wire that goes to the reverse light switch to power the electric choke and fuel cut solenoid.

I did find a wire at the ECM that goes hot with the ignition switch, but it doesn't have enough power to work the choke and solenoid. Should I simply create a double relay pack that is triggered off this wire or has someone else found a different way to power these two items on the carb? Other than the wire for the reverse light switch, I can't find any others that go hot with the ignition switch turned on in the cut up harness sticking out of the firewall.

Thanks,
Jay

Is this the last connection you need ??

Or do you need more and are going one at a time??

On the 86 the choke heater is powered off the charge fuse. which is located in the engine compartment.

Do you have the CMH relay or a spot for one in your fuse block ??one side of the CMH relay contacts sees battery voltage at all times when the coil pulls in the contacts close battery voltage to the CMH

Do you know if your using the federal or California Emission computer

Not trying to use the one from the EFI??

It comes down that the CMH relay coil is powered by 7.5 amp IGN fuse which has power in the run position.

I would really try and get a copy of the EWD you need very frustrating without.

Find the correct harness for the mess you have.

I hope this is a labor of love so you can walk away as needed

Thanks, Wyoming9.

I didn't expect this problem. I see you are in PA and may have never visited Mississippi where this truck came from. Rednecks look at what Mississippi people have done to a truck and say, "What the heck?!" You wouldn't believe some of the stuff I've pulled off of this truck.

To answer some of your questions:
* I don't know if it will be the last connection I need. I didn't know I needed to know about this until I found out the power wire I was using had to go to the reverse light switch.
* I don't know if I have a CMH relay. (Too dark to go look now.) However, I can easily wire up a similar relay and my original question was if someone had something else they had done before I did that. (Maybe I was overlooking a simpler solution.)
* Federal Emissions
* I could only find one wire that went "hot" with the ignition switch at the EFI computer. I tapped it and tried to use it for power to the choke and solenoid. (Not enough juice to get the job done though.) My idea for the relay pack is to use this wire for the trigger to close the relays though.
* I'd love a copy of the EWD. One of the guys that helped me get the motor in, said he has a full FSM on his laptop, but I just haven't been able to hook up with him. (I do have a limited portion of the FSM in a binder, but it doesn't have the EWD.)
* It is a labor of love for my son. He turns 16 in late April and I hope to have it streetable by then. I'm really trying to keep it as simple as possible, but for now, yes, I can fight with it and walk away at my leisure.

Thanks,
Jay

Was going to add my 2 cents worth earlier, but I was away. You probably don't have a Cmh relay since your truck was originally EFI, but you should have the EFI main relay and it will work the same. If you don't have emissions testing in Memphis then I wouldn't worry about a emissions computer. The coil side of the EFI relay is fed off of the 7.5a. Ign fuse like the CMH relay. The contact side is fed from the 15a. EFI fuse. From the relay there is a black wire that goes to the circuit opening relay. The circuit opening relay is located behind the passengers side speaker just above the right kick panel. Since you no longer have EFI or an electric fuel pump you don't need it and it will say circuit opening relay. It will have a yellow 6 wire plug with only 5 wires (the center bottom position should be empty). You want to tie into the black wire that is in the #2 position, which is center top. This will give you switched power that will run the choke heater and your fuel cut solenoid. If you choose this option, you might want to down size the fuse from 15a. I'd try 7.5a first and if everything works fine leave it at that. The only other power that you need to start (assuming that you have your start circuit already worked out) is a feed for the ignition coil, igniter and distributor. You need to find the black/red wire that comes directly from the IG2 position of the ignition switch. It's probably a 10 gauge wire (might be 12, but I'm pretty sure it's 10). This would have also have been the feed for the ignitor on the EFI setup, so you should find it in the mess of cut off wires sticking out of the firewall. If you need a feed for a tach , there should be 2 green 2 wire connectors on the 22r igniter, one has either a red and white or a pink and white (if the engine came out of an 86) that goes to the distributor, the other has the black/red power feed and a black wire. This black is the feed back to your tach. You will need to do a continuity check from the combination meter to the mess of wires.
I don't recall if your truck is manual or auto, so I'll give you both positions of this wire.
This wire is located in the blue connector at the combination meter in position #5 if an auto or position #6 if manual. When looking at the face of the connector with the lock on top position #1 is on the left.

Trust me the South is not alone in the interesting and strange things I have seen.

Hadmatt54,
You continue to amaze me with the detail you can produce!

First, the ignition is working fine so I'm going to just let that be.

As for the power to the choke and fuel cut off, I'm still fighting it. I'm pretty sure I found the six pin harness you were speaking about. However, there wasn't a relay plugged in to it. The only "large" gauge black wire was in the first position though. None of the wires went hot when the ignition switch went on though.

Since all the smog components are gone, I'm still trying to figure out what to do with the vacuum hashes that need to go to the choke breaks and pull-offs also. I may just end up going with a Weber to try to make it simple.

Thanks!
Jay

"Necessity is the mother of invention."

First make sure you have an EFI relay, it's located in the fuse block under the drivers side kick panel. If the circuitry is okay you should hear it click when the ignition is turned on, if you can't hear it, put you finger on it when you turn on the ignition and you will feel the contacts close (click). If it doesn't operate then you either have a bad relay or a problem with the circuitry. If you remove it the two light tabs are the coil side the two heavy ones are the contact side.
Pull the relay and check voltages and continuity at the plug in the fuse block; with the ignition in the on position on the coil side you should measure 12v between the two light tabs as one comes from the 7.5a ign fuse and the other is a path to ground. On the contact side you should measure 12v on one contact to ground as it comes from the 15a EFI fuse. The other side should be the black wire that you already identified. Do a continuity check to make sure that this wire is intact.
To check the relay, put your multimeter across the two heavy contacts and set it for continuity, then connect leads from your battery + and - to the light contacts. For this test polarity is not a concern. Connect the + lead solid and just touch the - lead. If your relay is good the contact will close and you will see continuity across the heavy contacts at your meter.

WoW!!! It's been a month since I've been able to work on the truck. (Deer season is upon us!)

The last time I worked on it, out of frustration, I tapped in to a Green Wire with a red stripe that went hot with the key being turned on. This wire is 10-12 gauge and is going in to the fuse block behind the battery. I was able to tap it and ran wires to the choke and fuel stop solenoid.

As soon as I started the truck, I realized I shouldn't have done that because the brake and charge light were on. I drove it around the block and it seemed to sputter at higher rpms so I just parked it in the driveway.

The next weekend, I pulled off the wires I tapped to the green with red stripe wire and went to start it. Nothing.... Absolutely nothing.... I figured that I had somehow drained the battery so I took it to the local AutoZone for charging and testing. (All turned out good.) When I installed it, the dash lights would come on with the key turned on, but go out and I don't even get a hint of a click from the starter solenoid when I try to turn it over. Arrrrggghhhh..

While trying to pull out the 80 amp fusible link for testing, I accidentally pulled the top off. I checked the fusible link and it is hot with the key on, but goes cold when I turn it to the start position. More troubleshooting ahead of me, but it's my own fault.

The good news is that we bucked up and Santa got us a 38mm Weber so I can stop fighting which vacuum hose goes where. We'll open it Christmas day.

If anyone knows the simple solution to the problem I created, please let me know. If not, I've made my bed and now I have to fix it.

Thanks, Hadmatt54! I'll still use your info to power the electric choke on the Weber!