Nabors

Hey everybody,
I'm looking to get a vehicle I can use for only wheeling so decided on the rough and tough older Toyota pickup. I have a budget of $1500. What should I avoid when looking? Thanks!

MudHippy

Avoid looking for anything more than a long-term project that needs major work for $1500. Because that's pretty much all you're going to get for that. These trucks aren't that cheap. Nor should they be.

phildelfino

You don't say where you live and location has something to do with price and availability. Generally though if you have that small a budget, you are getting in at the bottom. If you can get a running and driving vehicle for that, it's a bonus but can be done. My 4runner was $1700.00 and fairly rust free. Good luck.

Nabors

I live in central Florida. I have big plans and want to start with a solid truck. I'm not expecting one I can drive around. I just want a solid base that I can toy around with in the woods until I can start my build. The 1500 was merely a number I threw out. My other option is a Ranger. If I can't find a solid truck for 1500, I'm going with a Ranger for my build.

MudHippy

Way better off with a Toyota.

RANGERS SUCK THE BIG ONE!!!

Nabors

That isn't all I have to start out but I thought that may be enough to get me going. How much should I put aside for initial cost? I thought 1500 for truck and 500 already aside for any repairs or should I put the "fix" money into the initial truck cost?

gmack192

They're out there, ya just gotta beat the bushes... I have had Fords, Jeeps and YODA's.

With enough time and money, you can build anything to wheel... I just prefer the old Toyotas because they're tough right out of the box..

Originally from FLA...
Do yourself a favor and check the frame real good....

I got the truck I have now for FREE... it has CO$$$$$$$$$$$$$T me from there..

Nabors

When I was looking for my current truck (7.3 DD/Tow pig), one i looked at on the coast had a ton of rust. I wrote that one off. I have a couple Yoda buddy's who seem to find the good deals. I want to do the "wheel till it breaks then upgrade" type of build.

Stetson_md

I'm in central fla and I picked up my at the time non running non drivin rust crippled 84 for listed 1200 (horse traded I actually paid much less about $300 total)
You can get street worthy trucks for about 2000 but you have to look them over damn good and be ready to buy it the day you find it
I missed out on a immaculate 86 extra cab long bed 22re auto for 1400 cause I had to run to that bank to get the cash

Most of the time tho there 3000+

RSR

Goes w/o saying I think, but if wanting something to take offroad, only consider the 4x4s... The SR5 package on these trucks in the high end package and if a daily driver, I'd recommend holding out for one of those. Also if daily driver, the extra cab is well worth it too (a little reduced exit clearance, but shouldn't be too many boulders and mountains in FL for serious rock crawling...). For SR5 and xtra cab and 4x4 (2wd drive trucks are cheaper but you spend more than the cost difference to make a 2wd a 4wd -- a lot of body, suspension, and drivetrain differences), I'd plan at least $3k (more like $3.5k) for a truck that's been well maintained and not a money pit.

But typically for whatever reason, the 4runners seem to be a little cheaper than the pickups in most markets. The first gen 4 runner has a removable top sort of like a Jeep, and looks a lot like the pickup w/ that top removed... They're usually more expensive than the 2nd Gen w/o the removable roof however due to rarity, but would make a pretty sweet beach/offroad hybrid rig.

If you want to do the work yourself, 4 cylinder 22res are easier to work on and have more aftermarket part availability than the V6 3vzes.

But the 22re might leave you feeling a little underpowered... Espeically w/ the heavier 4 runner.

No way in hell can I recommend the Ford. Yes, they're cheap, but there's a reason for that...

Overall, I'd recommend saving at least $2500 for your shopping spree and planning at least an add'l $1000 in upgrades/maintenance/repairs -- and an extra $500+ if needing tires...

Main thing on both in regards to engines is to check when the last major 120k service was done -- timing belt (3vze) or chain (22re), water pump, oil pump, etc, service was done. Both of those are worth about $1k to do on your own after the fact...

In FL, like in TX, don't hesitate to look at the Spanish only language auto yards and advertisements too -- these trucks are pretty popular in those communities (though they tend to lean more towards the cheaper and better mpg 2wd trucks).

Stetson_md

http://orlando.craigslist.org/cto/4027965838.html this straight axle efi 4 runner is probably worth checking out

Nabors

That's exactly what I'm looking for. However, I will have to wait until I have a break from school. I just want something I can wheel, break, upgrade, wheel some more. I found a 1980 too but, like I said, am still busy with school. I will keep y'all updated, though.

Stetson_md

Ya man I hear ya I'm going to college myself

Nabors

What college and what is your major?

Stetson_md

Valencia, General A.A. at the moment plan to transfer out after that and get a B.A. in forestry

Nabors

Where do you want to transfer to? I'm doing Mechanical Engineering at UCF right now.

Stetson_md

I'd love to go to U.G.A or A.B.A.C but I probably won't be able to swing outta state tuition so I'd be stuck going to U.F. there the only school in fla that offers a forestry degree that I know of

Tylersrig

Hey op I used to be stationed in fort walton beach I've got a couple suggestions first go with a first gen runner down there back seat comes out or folds down so you still have the truck bed. Second look into the areas with military, when they move extra vehicles and toys go cheap and ball peen check the frame mostly at the rear shackle and gas tank For me that's where I found most of the yotas down there rusts it seems to me most of the ones I found where around Panama City hope this helped sorry for the long winded post

redbayredneck

I'm in Northwest FL, I paid $3,000 for my truck and it has some serious body rust issues, but a solid frame, a great drivetrain with only 135k miles at time of purchase, and a crack free dash.

I've found some cheaper in this area, but none were in as good a shape mechanically.

Nabors

I just made a new thread on this topic.