Is the meth pump surging or the engine?

It does sound like you have a leak, before you start using it you need to pressure check it. Start the truck and let it idle and then put some pressure to the boost line to turn the meth kit on (or if you have the voltage input connected turn it down enough to kick it on at idle).

You will need to rev the engine slightly to keep it from bogging out but get the pump up to full pressure/duty and check for leaks. The engine may sound like it doesn't like the injection but don't worry about it, long as you keep it running it won't hurt anything. Will clean it out though.

Make sure there are no leaks anywhere.

No, with the engine running i can not hear the meth injection pump, the only way i know it is working is the lights on the gauge and the flow sensor.

I just drove it down the road and it seems the engine is surging. the meth systme seems to be working properly and there is no leaks. When I hooked up the boost line to the back of the s/c there was a line already hooked up there that ran to a lil mushroom lookin valve. I just left it unhooked cause when it is runnin there is no vacum or anything on it. It may be this lil mushroom valve taht is making the noise cause it doesnt do it unless it is in gear under a load right befor the cmgs reads boost and gets louder the more I get in it.

Well, get a T fitting and reconnect that other hose, not sure what it is but connect it anyways. Never disconnect anything unless you know what it does.

Also pull the battery cable for a little while and try to start the truck while it is pulled (to drain and charge in the ECU). This will reset the ECU and will help with the tuning.

Does it only surge when the methanol is injecting? Do you have a wideband? What happens if you turn the injection off?

Yes I have a wideband but I dont have it in yet. I have to take it to the muffler shop the get them to weld the bunge in cause the mig welder I got isnt capable of welding that thick of metal to that thin so ill have the wideband hooked up this weekend if I can find time to take it. And yes it just surges during injection except when in park it does fine. Ill try running it without injection.

Well first rehook that hose, better off having it hooked up then leaving it off.

If that doesn't fix it then turn down the injection, you could be too rich/too much and causing it to bog/misfire.

What plugs and how old are they BTW?

What mix of water/meth are you injecting as well?

Till you get the wideband installed it is hard to really dial it in. After you get it installed then you can start working on fine tuning.

Got a T fitting and hooked it back up and it quit making the sound.

Im running a 50/50 mix and have it tuned for 30% at inital boost and 80 at full boost. 5% more than default but I am going to turn it back down untill I get the wideband hooked up.

I got the plugs right after I got the truck so they are prolly a month old and they are ngk iridium but they only have 1 electrode on the end of it and on the shroud under he hood it says to run a twin electrode, so ill be ordering some of the denso plugs friday cause they dont carry them at the local parts houses.

Ok, that makes a bit more sense, kinda figured that line was the problem.

Far as what settings to use for the injection, what nozzle do you have?

I would set it to start at 20% @ 1psi and ramp up to 100% max.

Then tuning is easy, you simply turn the max boost knob to adjust how much is injected. Can do it on the fly and makes things really simple. Also i found that i get more performance if i removed the vacuum line from the FPR since this leaned me out and allowed me to inject more meth.

I have a 10gph nozzle and am only running ~9psi due to a leak on the bypass valve. I generally have the max boost point set at around 20psi which puts me right in the ideal AFR range at that boost level.

Also gives me some room for boost spikes/cooler days with more boost ect. Or if i had to run pure water i can just turn the max point down so i know i have plenty of water to keep things safe with the turn of a knob. Just really makes things simpler.

Plus when i get the boost leak fixed i am sure i will need more meth anyways since i plan to run ~12psi+.

I got a 7gph nozzel and wat is the FPR?? This is my first toyota so im still learnin alot about them on top of a supercharged one. I need to get a teardown rebuild manual for it dont I??

Nah, other then the stupid locked electronic save for (at least the older ones) being more reliable toyotas are not that different then any other car.

The FPR is the fuel pressure regulator. It is on the drivers side fuel rail under the supercharger. Hard to see but you should be able to trace a vacuum line from the boost port on the SC down to there if it is connected. If not then don't worry about it.

The 7gph nozzle should work fine for you since you have a bigger pulley then me (2.0" here). I would start off with the settings i listed above and then just spend a lot of time with the butt dyno and see what feels better.

Adjust the amount injected and play with the mixture of water/meth (both are far easier and better with a wideband) till you find the sweet spot for your truck.

Water/meth have a really wide tuning margin but you can maximize the performance with some tweaking over time.

Thanks for the help TA. If I ever happen to run across you I think id owe you some money cause you have helped me out alot on this deal!!:drink:

LOL, no problem i had a lot of people help me when i was getting started, least i can do is help out some people myself.

Whats funny is the line I had unhooked earlier that was making that noise was the fuel pressure regulator?? The lil mushroom valve thing I was talkin bout...

Where was the valve? Was it on the fuel rail? Got a picture?

The FPR should not do that connected or not.

Tried to post pics but it says the file is too big or somethin. It is on the fuel rail on the driver side on the back of the motor right up under the blower though.

Hmm, it does sound like the FPR, very strange. You might have been leaning out without it hooked up. Wait till you get the wideband hooked up to worry about it, then you will know a lot more. Also an OBDII scanner is a nice tool to have as well.

aight well im done with it for tonight. Thanks again

I hooked the 0-5v wire up to the maf. I found the 5v wire on the maf it was number 4 on the conector. Everything is hooked up corectly. My question is, when I carnk up the truck the cmgs starts out reding around 1.3-1.4v. After about 5-10 minutes of driving it gets up to around 1.8-1.9v. It never gets higher than that even during acceleration. Its not pumping at all when I configure it to run volts or combined unless I get into boost or unless I turn the minimum down past what it is sitting at on the cmgs. Any ideas why it is doing this??? Or, is it spose to be like this. I wouldnt think it is. I have messed with it till im tired of doin it and just figured id see if you had an idea.

Sure you have the right wire?

Use a multimeter to make sure the voltage on the wire is the same voltage the CMGS is detecting.

Also check the other wires, the voltage should change with RPM's for sure. You might have the 5v output for the Intake temp sensor and not the MAF, they are both built into the same unit.

Makes sence. When I checked the wires I unpluged the conector with the truck running and got a 12v a 5v and 3 that were just like .2 or.3 so maybe I do have the wrong wire. I need to check them with it runnin and rev it up to see witch one goes to 5v huh??

Also what gauge pod did you use? I looked at a universal one at advanced auto and the cmgs wouldnt even fit in there. I think my cmgs is a 2 5/16 and the wideband is a 2 1/16 gauge. Dont hold me to that though. I know I couldnt get the cmgs into the gauge pod and it was for 2 1/16 gauges.

Yeah, i bet you have the wrong wire. You need to backprobe the connectors with the truck running and it plugged in to find the right wire. 1 of those wires with no voltage should be a ground, the other should be the MAF output. So you could try process of eliminations if you think you can figure out the ground but the only sure fire way to tell is to backprobe them.

I got a universal triple gauge pod from glowshift personally. The standard gauge size is 52mm, thats the kind of pod i have and the CMGS fits although it might have been a little tight.