Registered User
Quote:
Well me and my brother tested continuity per the factory servuce manual via pin's 2 and 3. We got good continuity, around 0.3 ohms. He has a portable test battery but it wa not charged, thats next on the list. Originally Posted by likkleBIT
Jonathan, are you able to test the actuator itself by placing positive and negative power to pins 2 and 3? If you hear no action the system is stuck. If you then take it off of the transfer box and have the driven gear out, you should get movement from the electric motor (cause its not driving anything). Have you done / can you do this test?
How can i take the actuator off the xfer case without removing the xfer case itself? Likklebit said he did too, but i dont see how!??? Care to elaborate?
Registered User
Simann,
The steps i took are as follows:
1) Remove the 3 bolts holding the actuator motor onto the transfer case. This will allow you to spin the actuator unit making step 2 easier.
2) Remove the 4 bolts covering the final gear cover
3) The final gear can be slipped off / taken off by hand. This this removed the actuator is no longer connected to the 4wd shift rod.
4) Slide the actuator motor off of the transfer case.
The steps i took are as follows:
1) Remove the 3 bolts holding the actuator motor onto the transfer case. This will allow you to spin the actuator unit making step 2 easier.
2) Remove the 4 bolts covering the final gear cover
3) The final gear can be slipped off / taken off by hand. This this removed the actuator is no longer connected to the 4wd shift rod.
4) Slide the actuator motor off of the transfer case.
Registered User
Quote:
The steps i took are as follows:
1) Remove the 3 bolts holding the actuator motor onto the transfer case. This will allow you to spin the actuator unit making step 2 easier.
2) Remove the 4 bolts covering the final gear cover
3) The final gear can be slipped off / taken off by hand. This this removed the actuator is no longer connected to the 4wd shift rod.
4) Slide the actuator motor off of the transfer case.
Originally Posted by likkleBIT
Simann, The steps i took are as follows:
1) Remove the 3 bolts holding the actuator motor onto the transfer case. This will allow you to spin the actuator unit making step 2 easier.
2) Remove the 4 bolts covering the final gear cover
3) The final gear can be slipped off / taken off by hand. This this removed the actuator is no longer connected to the 4wd shift rod.
4) Slide the actuator motor off of the transfer case.
Question: Say I just go ahead and order a new Actuator. How did you put the new actuator on the fork shaft and know that it is "in time" or in the correct gear (I guess they come set in 2WD)?
This is way easier than I thought it was! Thank you!
EDIT: Figured it out. I would just put power to the terminals 2 and 3 for the Actuator and put it in either 2WD or 4WD position, set the shifter fork to either 2WD or 4WD and hook it up.
Registered User
Quote:
The only problem there is that the limit switch isn't taken into account... If you were to take a band new actuator and put power to pins 2 and 3, the electric motor would spin until it gets stuck. This was a part of my trial and error the other night.Originally Posted by Simann
... I would just put power to the terminals 2 and 3 for the Actuator and put it in either 2WD or 4WD position, set the shifter fork to either 2WD or 4WD and hook it up.
My assumption is that from factory a replacement actuator would come set in the 2wd position.
I do hope for your pocket's sake a new actuator is hypothetical, that thing is about $1,000!
Registered User
Quote:
Thats true - testing provided by haynes manual says about using power source and relay to test Actuator. Maybe other manuals too.Originally Posted by likkleBIT
The only problem there is that the limit switch isn't taken into account... If you were to take a band new actuator and put power to pins 2 and 3, the electric motor would spin until it gets stuck. This was a part of my trial and error the other night.
I almost destroyed one testing without relay - it was used but working.
New actuator comes in 2wd (photo at my post 01.02 is new one)
Registered User
Quote:
My assumption is that from factory a replacement actuator would come set in the 2wd position.
I do hope for your pocket's sake a new actuator is hypothetical, that thing is about $1,000!
I've actually already budgeted one in, well I put off buying the ToyTec ultimate lift and 4Crawler body, and ARB front bumper. Bummer.Originally Posted by likkleBIT
The only problem there is that the limit switch isn't taken into account... If you were to take a band new actuator and put power to pins 2 and 3, the electric motor would spin until it gets stuck. This was a part of my trial and error the other night.My assumption is that from factory a replacement actuator would come set in the 2wd position.
I do hope for your pocket's sake a new actuator is hypothetical, that thing is about $1,000!
Quote:
I almost destroyed one testing without relay - it was used but working.
New actuator comes in 2wd (photo at my post 01.02 is new one)
Originally Posted by khann
Thats true - testing provided by haynes manual says about using power source and relay to test Actuator. Maybe other manuals too.I almost destroyed one testing without relay - it was used but working.
New actuator comes in 2wd (photo at my post 01.02 is new one)
Khann, good to know about the actuator. I must ask though, the actuator picture you posted has the shift fork rod still attached but without a shift fork. Does the new actuator come with a new shift fork rod? The reason I ask is when replacing the actuator itself, I guess I will just not need to crack open the transfer case at all per Likklebit's tip on unbolting the actuator from the shift fork rod?
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Quote:
I bought in the state You see from ToyDealer - but to mount it We removed new rod and without crack opening mounted on tcaseOriginally Posted by Simann
Khann, good to know about the actuator. I must ask though, the actuator picture you posted has the shift fork rod still attached but without a shift fork. Does the new actuator come with a new shift fork rod?
Registered User
Quote:
Just ordered a new actuator from Toyotapart.com. http://www.toyotapart.comOriginally Posted by khann
I bought in the state You see from ToyDealer - but to mount it We removed new rod and without crack opening mounted on tcase
I checked my VIN on another part website and this is the correct actuator for my model year range (1998.07-2000.08). Mine was built in 4/2000.
http://www.toyotapartszone.com/oem/t...410-35051.html
Quote:
36410-35051 ACTUATOR ASSY, TRANS 1 $817.58 $817.58
Shipping: UPS 2nd Day Air: $22.54
Sales Tax: $0.00
Total: $840.12
That is the cheapest I could find it for. 36410-35051 ACTUATOR ASSY, TRANS 1 $817.58 $817.58
Shipping: UPS 2nd Day Air: $22.54
Sales Tax: $0.00
Total: $840.12
I will have a nice pictorial of how I will change out the actuator, step-by-step so to speak.
Registered User
Quote:
Thats really appreciated! although mine is on place - I dont think this problem will disappear to other 4R'sOriginally Posted by Simann
I will have a nice pictorial of how I will change out the actuator, step-by-step so to speak.
Sounds like you folks are doing great at troubleshooting the actuator, but don't forget that on the Limited 4Runners there is a 4WD computer, and fuse to mix into the equation.
Just don't overlook those 2 items for testing before you dole out the big $$ for a T-case actuator.
Just don't overlook those 2 items for testing before you dole out the big $$ for a T-case actuator.
Registered User
Got my Actuator in today. Its quite a simple and clever device, but bloody expensive! ($840.12 shipped to my door)
Here is with the access panal the others were talking about, this Actuator is for my 2000 Limited. This actuator is certainly updated from the views I saw earlier per a diagram for the actuator for the 80 series Land Cruisers. Don't worry, I got new red FIPG:
Also, the actuator came with the two limit switches....so I blew $160 extra that I did not need to.
I may just have my mechanic friend take off the transfer case and do it RIGHT. I am afraid if I take out the little drive gear I pictured above (in access plate) that the driven gear/spiral spring may rotate and get out of timing....
....Well actually it can't because the driven gear is attached to a drive gear operated by a electric motor...which when engaged pushes against the driven gears "spiral spring" which loads up when 4WD is engaged. When you disengage 4WD the springs tension is released and the springs recoil spins the drive gear which rotates the driven gear on the shaft to pull back the shift rod as the electric motor does not spin in the opposite direction, kind of like this one from the 80 series 'Cruiser's:
Here is with the access panal the others were talking about, this Actuator is for my 2000 Limited. This actuator is certainly updated from the views I saw earlier per a diagram for the actuator for the 80 series Land Cruisers. Don't worry, I got new red FIPG:
Also, the actuator came with the two limit switches....so I blew $160 extra that I did not need to.
I may just have my mechanic friend take off the transfer case and do it RIGHT. I am afraid if I take out the little drive gear I pictured above (in access plate) that the driven gear/spiral spring may rotate and get out of timing....
....Well actually it can't because the driven gear is attached to a drive gear operated by a electric motor...which when engaged pushes against the driven gears "spiral spring" which loads up when 4WD is engaged. When you disengage 4WD the springs tension is released and the springs recoil spins the drive gear which rotates the driven gear on the shaft to pull back the shift rod as the electric motor does not spin in the opposite direction, kind of like this one from the 80 series 'Cruiser's:
Registered User
Quote:
I can't wait to resolve my issue and stop posting in this thread too. Even my lady said she's tired of hearing me talk about "ADD Actuator this, ADD Actuator that". LOLOriginally Posted by likkleBIT
Looking forward to hearing you have propern4wd again.
Registered User
Quote:
Being a newbie to 4WD it was difficult for me to see things. Special thanks to Doug for his help. You really saved us all a bunch of money. I took several pics and tried to make a simple step by step for other newbies if their trouble ends up being the front diff switch. Like Doug said a great first place to start. You will need ratchets that will fit a 12mm socket for the bolts of the skid plate and a 27mm socket YES 27mm! You more than like likely wont have this. It runs about $8 at Lowe's, just a regular one, NOT the deep socket one. You will also need a multimeter which are very cheap at Lowe's as well or Radio Shack. I borrowed one from a friend.
Step 1 - Remove your front skid plate if you have one. There will be 4 bolts. Here is what it looks like.
http://img94.imageshack.us/img94/796...onepics021.jpg
Step 2 - Locate the front differential switch, it is attached to the front actuator. This is located in front directly behind the oil pan. See pic below.
http://img638.imageshack.us/img638/7...diffsensor.jpg
http://img227.imageshack.us/i/61609iphonepics010.jpg/
http://img237.imageshack.us/i/61609iphonepics011.jpg/
http://img338.imageshack.us/i/61609iphonepics012.jpg/
Step 3- Remove the attached wire from the switch. There is a tab on the wires Grey portion that you simply push down on with your finger and at the same time you pull.
http://img237.imageshack.us/i/61609iphonepics016.jpg/
http://img341.imageshack.us/img341/5867/dscn5456.jpg
Step 4- Remove the switch. Now with the wire removed, you will need the 27mm socket and 1/2 ratchet to loosen the switch. It is a tight fit like someone here in the forum said but it you attach the socket first and then put the handle of the ratchet up first in the space you will then be able to slip it on the switch and loosen it and then once loosen use your fingers to remove it the rest of the way. You cant loosen it all the way with the ratchet or it will get stuck.
http://img18.imageshack.us/i/61609iphonepics022.jpg/
http://img130.imageshack.us/i/61609iphonepics014.jpg/
Step 5 - Test the switch. Get the multimeter and touch both pins with a separate wire from the meter. With the plunger out/ normal you will get no reading. Next push the plunger with your thumb and check reading you should hear a tone or see continuity. If not your switch is bad. Mine was bad. Part number is 84222-35070. See pic below.
http://img227.imageshack.us/i/61609iphonepics006.jpg/
http://img25.imageshack.us/i/61609iphonepics004.jpg/
http://img210.imageshack.us/i/61609iphonepics001.jpg/
http://img196.imageshack.us/i/61609iphonepics002.jpg/
Notes:
The dealership closet to me wanted $61.24 for it but, I called all the dealerships around and one had it for $49 so they price matched it. Now I have a working 4WD system. Hope this helps.
http://img155.imageshack.us/g/61609iphonepics007.jpg/
God Bless you all,
Rome
Originally Posted by Romey_d
FIXED...FIXED..FIXED...1999 4Runner Limited 4WD stuck! Being a newbie to 4WD it was difficult for me to see things. Special thanks to Doug for his help. You really saved us all a bunch of money. I took several pics and tried to make a simple step by step for other newbies if their trouble ends up being the front diff switch. Like Doug said a great first place to start. You will need ratchets that will fit a 12mm socket for the bolts of the skid plate and a 27mm socket YES 27mm! You more than like likely wont have this. It runs about $8 at Lowe's, just a regular one, NOT the deep socket one. You will also need a multimeter which are very cheap at Lowe's as well or Radio Shack. I borrowed one from a friend.
Step 1 - Remove your front skid plate if you have one. There will be 4 bolts. Here is what it looks like.
http://img94.imageshack.us/img94/796...onepics021.jpg
Step 2 - Locate the front differential switch, it is attached to the front actuator. This is located in front directly behind the oil pan. See pic below.
http://img638.imageshack.us/img638/7...diffsensor.jpg
http://img227.imageshack.us/i/61609iphonepics010.jpg/
http://img237.imageshack.us/i/61609iphonepics011.jpg/
http://img338.imageshack.us/i/61609iphonepics012.jpg/
Step 3- Remove the attached wire from the switch. There is a tab on the wires Grey portion that you simply push down on with your finger and at the same time you pull.
http://img237.imageshack.us/i/61609iphonepics016.jpg/
http://img341.imageshack.us/img341/5867/dscn5456.jpg
Step 4- Remove the switch. Now with the wire removed, you will need the 27mm socket and 1/2 ratchet to loosen the switch. It is a tight fit like someone here in the forum said but it you attach the socket first and then put the handle of the ratchet up first in the space you will then be able to slip it on the switch and loosen it and then once loosen use your fingers to remove it the rest of the way. You cant loosen it all the way with the ratchet or it will get stuck.
http://img18.imageshack.us/i/61609iphonepics022.jpg/
http://img130.imageshack.us/i/61609iphonepics014.jpg/
Step 5 - Test the switch. Get the multimeter and touch both pins with a separate wire from the meter. With the plunger out/ normal you will get no reading. Next push the plunger with your thumb and check reading you should hear a tone or see continuity. If not your switch is bad. Mine was bad. Part number is 84222-35070. See pic below.
http://img227.imageshack.us/i/61609iphonepics006.jpg/
http://img25.imageshack.us/i/61609iphonepics004.jpg/
http://img210.imageshack.us/i/61609iphonepics001.jpg/
http://img196.imageshack.us/i/61609iphonepics002.jpg/
Notes:
The dealership closet to me wanted $61.24 for it but, I called all the dealerships around and one had it for $49 so they price matched it. Now I have a working 4WD system. Hope this helps.
http://img155.imageshack.us/g/61609iphonepics007.jpg/
God Bless you all,
Rome
I've got a 2001 that is having the same problems as everyone else on this thread. I have studied nearly every single post in this thread, but for the life of me I can't find the sensor shown in the pictures quoted above. I have been under my truck several times with all the skids removed and have even replaced both switches on the transfer case. Is there something I am missing or is the 2001 front diff different from the others? I would really appreciate some help. Thanks!
Registered User
Well, I got my truck fixed!
It was the transfer case actuator all along. Total service to replace the actuator including transfer case teardown and rebuild was $719.00 plus the $840.00 for the actuator and about $300.00 in all new sensors for a grand total of $1,860.00 to get my 4WD working perfectly again.
Next on the list is the ARB bull bar, winch and OME lift kit.
Some people may find this a bit expensive for a fix. But the fact of the matter is it all worked out in my case. I bought the truck with the 4WD not working, the dealer I bought the truck from last month screwed up the deal with the bank, the bank dropped the deal and the dealer had to "make it right" since it was their fault and not the banks (paperwork error). It was a local trade in, and for the 4WD not working and the bank mess, I got a truck for an incredible bargain. The truck is a absolutely MINT one-owner with full service history. Honestly, the cleanest 4Runner I have ever seen, so I had to buy it. The truck was only serviced a the Toyota dealer in Knoxville. I owed it to the truck to continue a "good service history".
I'll update with my own thread when all the goodies are on.
It was the transfer case actuator all along. Total service to replace the actuator including transfer case teardown and rebuild was $719.00 plus the $840.00 for the actuator and about $300.00 in all new sensors for a grand total of $1,860.00 to get my 4WD working perfectly again.
Next on the list is the ARB bull bar, winch and OME lift kit.
Some people may find this a bit expensive for a fix. But the fact of the matter is it all worked out in my case. I bought the truck with the 4WD not working, the dealer I bought the truck from last month screwed up the deal with the bank, the bank dropped the deal and the dealer had to "make it right" since it was their fault and not the banks (paperwork error). It was a local trade in, and for the 4WD not working and the bank mess, I got a truck for an incredible bargain. The truck is a absolutely MINT one-owner with full service history. Honestly, the cleanest 4Runner I have ever seen, so I had to buy it. The truck was only serviced a the Toyota dealer in Knoxville. I owed it to the truck to continue a "good service history".
I'll update with my own thread when all the goodies are on.
Registered User
Just wanted to say thanks to everyone who posted on this topic especially 99SC4runner for starting us all on the right direction. After a couple YEARS of having this issue I finally got fed up and dived right in.
I tested all four switches on the transfer case (two on the actuator and the two on top of the tcase). three of the four were bad...TRANSFER INDICATOR, NO.1 84222‑12010 which i got at NAPA for $12 (switch located on the tcase actuator closest to the front). The other two switches located on top of the tcase 84222B SWITCH, TRANSFER INDICATOR, NO.2 part#84222‑35080 and 84222D SWITCH, TRANSFER INDICATOR, NO.4 part#84222‑35090. Bought both of those for $55 each on toyotapartszone.com. I had to go in through the cab with a 27mm wrench to take off the switches.
Even after replacing the bad switches the light continued to blink but i went back over all the connections and made sure they had a good connection. Once i unclipped and reclipped all the electrical connections thats when i heard everything clicking together. It took a couple cycles of pushing in the 4x4 button and center diff button to get everything working correctly.
thanks
I tested all four switches on the transfer case (two on the actuator and the two on top of the tcase). three of the four were bad...TRANSFER INDICATOR, NO.1 84222‑12010 which i got at NAPA for $12 (switch located on the tcase actuator closest to the front). The other two switches located on top of the tcase 84222B SWITCH, TRANSFER INDICATOR, NO.2 part#84222‑35080 and 84222D SWITCH, TRANSFER INDICATOR, NO.4 part#84222‑35090. Bought both of those for $55 each on toyotapartszone.com. I had to go in through the cab with a 27mm wrench to take off the switches.
Even after replacing the bad switches the light continued to blink but i went back over all the connections and made sure they had a good connection. Once i unclipped and reclipped all the electrical connections thats when i heard everything clicking together. It took a couple cycles of pushing in the 4x4 button and center diff button to get everything working correctly.
thanks
Registered User
Quote:
If you havent found I can snap a quick pic for ya. Let me know.Originally Posted by puppetz007
I've got a 2001 that is having the same problems as everyone else on this thread. I have studied nearly every single post in this thread, but for the life of me I can't find the sensor shown in the pictures quoted above. I have been under my truck several times with all the skids removed and have even replaced both switches on the transfer case. Is there something I am missing or is the 2001 front diff different from the others? I would really appreciate some help. Thanks!
Registered User
Hello Everyone,
This is my first of many posts on this forum. My wife and I just bought a new to us 97 4runner limited. Now on to my issues, and they fit perfectly in this thread. On our test drive the previous owner said 4wd works great, hit the button while going 50-55, and it engaged and the dash light came on like it should. Today I was driving and figured I would do the same drill, nothing happened. I tried everything to get into 4wd, and nothing. Finally on the freeway at 60-65mph, i tried again and the dash light began to flash and beep and would not shut off unless I took it out of 4wd. The lever I have is 4lo-n-4hi only. The lever is pulled back as far as I can get it. I noticed in this read everyone is replacing switches. This thing will not go into 4wd. Thoughts?
Thanks in advance,
Tom
This is my first of many posts on this forum. My wife and I just bought a new to us 97 4runner limited. Now on to my issues, and they fit perfectly in this thread. On our test drive the previous owner said 4wd works great, hit the button while going 50-55, and it engaged and the dash light came on like it should. Today I was driving and figured I would do the same drill, nothing happened. I tried everything to get into 4wd, and nothing. Finally on the freeway at 60-65mph, i tried again and the dash light began to flash and beep and would not shut off unless I took it out of 4wd. The lever I have is 4lo-n-4hi only. The lever is pulled back as far as I can get it. I noticed in this read everyone is replacing switches. This thing will not go into 4wd. Thoughts?
Thanks in advance,
Tom
Registered User
Quote:
This is my first of many posts on this forum. My wife and I just bought a new to us 97 4runner limited. Now on to my issues, and they fit perfectly in this thread. On our test drive the previous owner said 4wd works great, hit the button while going 50-55, and it engaged and the dash light came on like it should. Today I was driving and figured I would do the same drill, nothing happened. I tried everything to get into 4wd, and nothing. Finally on the freeway at 60-65mph, i tried again and the dash light began to flash and beep and would not shut off unless I took it out of 4wd. The lever I have is 4lo-n-4hi only. The lever is pulled back as far as I can get it. I noticed in this read everyone is replacing switches. This thing will not go into 4wd. Thoughts?
Thanks in advance,
Tom
1) Your 97 uses a vacuum actuator not an electric one like the one in this thread. Originally Posted by Stallion Motors
Hello Everyone,This is my first of many posts on this forum. My wife and I just bought a new to us 97 4runner limited. Now on to my issues, and they fit perfectly in this thread. On our test drive the previous owner said 4wd works great, hit the button while going 50-55, and it engaged and the dash light came on like it should. Today I was driving and figured I would do the same drill, nothing happened. I tried everything to get into 4wd, and nothing. Finally on the freeway at 60-65mph, i tried again and the dash light began to flash and beep and would not shut off unless I took it out of 4wd. The lever I have is 4lo-n-4hi only. The lever is pulled back as far as I can get it. I noticed in this read everyone is replacing switches. This thing will not go into 4wd. Thoughts?
Thanks in advance,
Tom
2) More importantly, try engaging 4wd while rolling in around at a speed closer to 5mph. Turn left and right ans see if you can get it to click in.
3) If #2 fails, search around. It could be a failed solenoid, vac leak or ...
Registered User
Thanks for the info. I was really hoping I was on to something. Even at 5mph it will not engage...I'm really stuck. I don't get why it worked fine for our test drive, and now nothing. My luck I guess.
Thanks again.
Anyone out there with a 97 have issues with 4wd...thoughts?
Tom
Thanks again.
Anyone out there with a 97 have issues with 4wd...thoughts?
Tom
Quote:
2) More importantly, try engaging 4wd while rolling in around at a speed closer to 5mph. Turn left and right ans see if you can get it to click in.
3) If #2 fails, search around. It could be a failed solenoid, vac leak or ...
Originally Posted by vegaskurt
1) Your 97 uses a vacuum actuator not an electric one like the one in this thread. 2) More importantly, try engaging 4wd while rolling in around at a speed closer to 5mph. Turn left and right ans see if you can get it to click in.
3) If #2 fails, search around. It could be a failed solenoid, vac leak or ...
