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Cabot's '85 SR5 Extended Cab 4x4 (re)Build
I joined the '85 club a few days ago. I posted a picture of the truck in the show off your 84-85 thread. I have a growing list of things that need to be done, but everything g about the motor and drive line seem pretty solid.
When I got it, it was doing the surging idle thing, so the first thing I did was idle it down to 750rpm. It sounds great now. Then there was a false overheating problem. Got that solved here: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f115...stions-256380/ Thanks, Vang530! On my way home from picking it up, it seemed way too easy to get to 75mph. I called my friend who was following me in a totally stock 2001 Tacoma. We talked for a minute, and I determined that I'm actually going 70mph when my speedometer says 90mph on 31's. I'm also around 3500rpm or so when I hit 70. The plate under the hood says that I'm supposed to have 4.10 gears. Some quick math seems to indicate that one of the POs swapped in 5.29 3rds. Here's my original to do list: 1)There are wires and hoses dangling loose under the hood everywhere. I want to get that all cleaned up. 2)The cd player is obviously hooked up wrong. 3) Get the oil pressure gauge working Thread: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f115...stions-256414/ 4) 12,000 and 30,000 mile service. I've done these once. It's probably time again. I forget what's involved. 7) Install OME springs, FOX Shocks, high steer, shock relocation brackets, etc. It's going to sit on 33x10.5x15 BFG KM2's 8) There is a little rust, and I can see where it has some body filler chipping out of a couple of spots. Also, the paint has chips and flakes. I hit something with the front fender and with the tailgate. Once I get this thing rolling again, I'm taking it to my friend Phil, the sheet metal wizard to fix all of that. 9) Armor and tube bumpers. The list will be changing and growing, for sure, and this thread is going to be full of random info about these trucks that I'm collecting for my own reference. Maybe someone else will find something useful here too. Edit 10/14/16: When I bought this truck back in July of 2012, I knew that I wanted to do something basically half way between a restoration and building into an off-road rig, but what I needed immediately out of it was reliable transportation and an introduction to working on something with fuel injection. I’d just sold a Volkswagen Golf because I didn’t know how to work on a modern fuel injected vehicle yet and couldn’t afford the maintenance. I knew that the Toyota pickup had a reputation for running forever and being easy to work on. I started researching these things and realized that I could get fuel injection and a solid front axle from the factory on a 1985. At that point, I began my search for a truck. I found my truck on Craigslist for $3000. It’s an SR5 extended cab with basically every option. I’ve had a couple of 4x4s previously and had wanted to build an off-road vehicle since I was 16. Now that I had a truck, the next step was to save up for another car that could take over daily driver duties so that I could pull the truck apart and still have some transportation. I daily drove this thing for several years before stumbling across a deal on a diesel 2002 Jetta that needed some work. Keeping the truck on the road had taught me that with tools, time, and a factory service manual, I could perform most any process on any vehicle. I got the car running. Shortly after that, the truck developed an oil leak on the front of the engine; the CFC radiator (total junk) I’d previously installed started leaking; the heater core started leaking, and the power steering pump started leaking. The tires were bald. I decided that it was time to pull this thing off the road for a bit of an overhaul. My work on this truck has been sporadic. Since I pulled it off the road, I’ve put a badly wrecked Volkswagen back on the road. I’ve converted another one from automatic to manual. I’ve built three bicycles. I keep putting this truck on the back burner. It’s been so long that I forget what I’ve posted and what I haven’t. Sometimes I’ll work on it for days and take neither pictures nor document my progress here. I’ve read and learned so much since I started messing around with this thing. I figured I’d update the first post in the thread to reflect where it’s at now. I’m planning to keep a current to do list in this first post. I’ll continue to update the thread with new posts about what I accomplish with the truck. Here's what's left to get it driveable: Miscellaneous engine bay stuff: Replace valve cover gasket and half moon Lift and crossover steering: Set up front shock hoops Source used and rebuild OE hubs Source and install high-steer arms and linkage Install extended brake lines on front Bleed brakes Replace center support bearing Install Rear Bump Stops Stuff Related to my leaky coolant system: Replace thermostat Have OE radiator repaired Have new heater core custom built Stuff to have worked on: Diagnose A/C |
just a suggestion, if you want to keep the approximate factory rpm level. speedo reading, and powerband, you'll want a 35" tire with those 5.29s.
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Nice looking little truck. I just bought a 85 extended cab that a guy was using for parts. I have a few projects that I need to finish up and am hoping to start on in a year or so. Seeing yours makes me see the possibilities. The extra cabs are getting harder to find. Looking forward to your build.
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Man... I can't believe that someone was using an 85 extended cab for parts. They were clearly using the wrong one for parts--should have been fixing up the 85 with whatever their other truck was... haha. Oh well... you win that one, Terry.
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Agree with you there Cabot! I've seen many of these trucks taken to part out. I just have to save one too!! Wish mine was an extra cab though.. My next one will be for sure! If you do a 4 inch lift crossover steering is best. The ifs box will hold up well if you do it right. 3 inch lift you can probably get away with the stock steering for a while. The steering wears out quick though if you are off road a lot. I'll be doing the crossover steering soon on my truck in the next week or so. It will give you an idea on the price and stuff. I'll let you know how it goes
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Well... looks like I'll need to get a welder before I lifting this thing then. My dad is good at it and been doing it forever, but I haven't welded in maybe ten years. I'll probably need to practice a bit before I do any welding up mounts for my suspension and steering. I suppose that an angle grinder is going on my tool wish list as well.
And yes, I'm excited about saving one of the rarer of these little trucks. I want to look into having my seats reupholstered in a way that will maintain the SR5 inserts. My driver's seat's padding under my butt is about worn out, but the way the lumbar support deal works makes it the most comfortable seat I've ever had in any vehicle. In other news, I've got my radiator in the shop. Here's to hoping it can be refurbished! I found a pinhole in it near the outlet in the top tank. Also, with sustained driving on the highway (speedometer at 70-75, tachometer over 3k--this is actually around 55mph) the temperature still begins to rise toward the non-normal range. And, here are some pictures of the removal process: http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8293/7...0c1146f4_z.jpg http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7264/7...2cdf885b_z.jpg http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8285/7...345716e9_z.jpg http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8423/7...abc52aa7_z.jpg http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7140/7...24d36d78_z.jpg It seemed convenient not to actually remove the bottom hose from the engine, so I left it. I just pulled it off the radiator. http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7280/7...4b773614_z.jpg I couldn't get the shroud out until I loosened the top two bolts on the radiator. After loosening those bolts, I removed the shroud then the bottom two bolts. I finally finished pulling the top two and removed the radiator. http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8426/7...73679b57_z.jpg This was way easier than I remember it being pulling the radiator out of my Scout a few years back. I think I had to cut all the hoses out that time. I don't know why I didn't get pictures of the radiator after removal. Both output spouts were rusty enough that I'm worried whether this repair is going to work out. For future reference: The preferred thermostat is the 192 degree Toyota number 90916-03070. The earlier trucks were updated to this part number in a TSB to help with the temp overshoot problem. For future reference: All 22re ground locations I need to do more engine bay cleaning and sort out what this oil pressure gauge sending unit connector problem. I'm pretty much at a loss for how to hook that up. |
You should only have to weld on the steering box if your doing crossover steering. No need to buy a welder for a one time use lol. Although an air dremel works out great and can be used for many things, such as a grinder! The radiator problem isnt to bad. Where you from?
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I'm from rural Tennessee (Estill Springs). I moved to Georgia for school about 10 years ago. I lived in Macon for several years. I've been in the Atlanta area for about a year and a half now.
I see you're in Brandon, Nightmare. My dad is from Hattiesburg. I need to get over that way to visit some family sometime. I haven't been in several years. You a lifelong Mississippian or a transplant? Also, I just ran into a deal on a welder that I can't pass up. I'm interested in building bicycle frames. I'll probably put sliders on the truck at some point. I could continue listing uses for a welder, but that would be silly. If I don't get this welder, I'll probably hold off on getting one for a while, but it definitely wouldn't be a one time use thing. |
Sounds good on the welder! And yes, been here my whole life. I was going to say I have a new radiator that came with my parts truck if you weren't to far away. I don't feel good about shipping it because of what it is. But if your interested, I won't be asking near the retail. Just PM me about that if you want it.
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The guy I bought mine from, bought the farm it was on. The owners of the farm left it abandoned on it. The owner I got it from started using it as parts. I have about everything I need to put it back together except for a title. I have been down that road before and it is alot of trouble to go thru, but I am not planning on starting it anytime soon.
I am not going to part it out or anything and will replace the parts I dont have when I come across them at a good deal. Besides I got two other projects to wrap up before I even start another one. It is too nice of a truck to see parted. I got it when I went to buy an 84 as a 2 for 1 special. Supposed to go pick it up Friday if the owner and I can get our schedules in sync with each other. Someone did put in an 89-95 dash in it, but I have a couple of spare dash that I can put into it. I will post some pics of it when I get it home. It will get covered up and be a future project. |
On your radiator, I would suggest taking it to a professional shop and have it power flushed. The Preston kits just wont get all of the rust build up out of it. Around here you have to pull it and it cost $25 to get it cleaned. If you watch it you will be amazed at how dirty it is. Looks like mud.
My radiator shop brazes on the neck and water pipes. I have never had a problem with them when he is done. You can almost count on needing your brackets brazed back on too. I have seen my temp guage go down 25% just having the radiator flushed. |
Well, I took my radiator to the shop. In Atlanta, it's a little more than $25 for the service, but they tanked it, pressure tested, repaired and repainted it. The guy even delivered it too me when he was done. I replaced the the main coolant hoses, removed the the aftermarket temp gauge and plugged that port. I was able to get the sheared bolt out of the thermostat housing with some PB Blaster and an Easy Out. The thermostat was new, as the PO stated at the time of purchase.
I replaced nearly every piece of vacuum line there is under that hood. I fixed some of the worst wiring I've ever seen. Epoxied the broken in half main relay box back together. Oil change with Mobil 1 and OEM filter. New OEM PCV valve and grommet. New OEM air filter. Correct OEM oil pressure sender installed but not wired up yet. I drove home from Atlanta to Tennessee tonight. I was spinning around 3200rpm at 58mph for a little over for hours on the interstate. No overheating. Coolant temperature gauge stayed at just under 1/2 the whole trip. Best running motor that's been in anything I've owned. I should be getting a tag and exhaust tomorrow. The engine bay is looking way better. I'll get pictures tomorrow. |
I have to say... Metric vacuum hose is hard to come by. I found some really nice stuff at Bug Eyed VW in Fort Valley, GA.
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I would have never found that tiny little coolant bypass hose if it hadn't let me know its location by spraying coolant everywhere as soon as I got every little leak fixed. Holy God I just burned myself.
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:bang: done it a hundred times! And still cant remember it myself!
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Haha... Makes me want to keep a spare at all times. I had been trying to get my AC going all day. I was going to return some tools, and that little guy blew out.
I got exhaust put on today but couldn't figure out where the leak in my AC is. It leaks down to no vacuum immediately (under one minute), but I can't figure out where the leak is. I'm thinking about having a shop repair it. It just seems beyond me short of just putting in all new AC components. I was too frustrated to get any pictures of anything during daylight hours. |
I finally snapped some photos of what it looks like under the hood. The vacuum line that I ordered from Bug Eyed has some braided sheathing that I think looks pretty nice.
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8017/7...877c6d55_z.jpg http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7251/7...f24dc6d8_z.jpg There are a few hoses that were larger or peculiar in some way. I’m going to order those through Toyota. The big one in the second picture there is one that I kind of made by heating and stretching one end of a piece of SAE fuel line. That's temporary. I’m also going to get the other three coolant hoses that go to the heater core. The valve that opens and closes the heater core is super crusty but seems to work fine. I’m in the Dirty South, and it’s the peak of summer, I won’t be needing a to use that guy too much for a while. If anyone has an extra one of those that is plastic from a later year and in good working order, PM me with a price please. This thing looks like it might have something to do with high idle or cruise control. Neither one of those currently works, nor can I see what else might connect to the other side into the weird little plastic boot. I know that the piece of vacuum line holding that guy is supposed to be at least a few inches longer because it was all cracked up before. I just cut out the cracked portion and stuck it back on temporarily. If any of you guys know what that guy does, please let me know (Thanks ahead of time). http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7266/7...a70f5265_z.jpghttp://farm8.staticflickr.com/7113/7...638c9595_z.jpg I’ve mentioned a couple of times that the wiring in this truck is pretty hacked up. I find crappy wiring pretty much everywhere I see wiring that I hadn’t before. I was telling my Toyota-Tech friend this, and he suggested that I build a whole new wiring harness from the truck’s wiring diagram to "save myself some time and money". I told him that I thought his idea was a bit over my head. At that point he said that he “slightly gets off on wiring,” that he can get all the appropriate connectors, and that he would love to help me build a new harness for the whole truck. We’re doing that three weekends from now! Good bye and good riddance to any and all electrical demons. I noticed that my bed doesn’t sit exactly flat and found a few spots where rust has previously been repaired. I’m going to pull the inner panels out, check out the body mount bushings or whatever these things have and start exterior body work in the week coming up. Here are some pictures of that little dirtbag of a hose that exploded on me last night (the new piece installed): http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8156/7...f834e954_z.jpg http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8143/7...e41af693_z.jpg And, finally, I'm beginning to suspect that I have a leaky rear main seal. There is oil that occasionally drips from between the block and the bell housing. I also find it on my rear bumper and tailgate. :nopity: |
The clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder totally died on me last night. The truck was blocking a friend's driveway, so I couldn't wait to order Aisin stuff. The Toyota dealership had nothing. Let's hope this Duralast business holds up for a while.
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Man you keep this up and you will have a new truck after all the replacements!
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This u-joint in the back is getting sloppier by the day. I'm going to have to figure out which one it is. I can't deal with it much longer. I guess it's time to read about that thing holds the rear drive shaft in the middle
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If it were me, I would eliminate that part and go with a solid drive shaft.(less parts to fail) That way you just have two U-Joints in between.
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Sorry to hear about your wiring issues.I got some wires to straighten out from the PO myself as well. I was able to get a title for my 85 and am in the process of getting it all back together. Do you have what they call a shelf in the extended part of the cab? I have heard of it and was wondering what it is and if you could post some pics of it.
I am restoring mine. For now it is motor and interior. It is on the last few pages of my 88 runner build. Are you talking about the carrier bearing on yours? Those tend to be problematic and I will just have a solid shaft built as mine is missing any ways. Will be using your build to try and get mine back together. Subscribed. |
I'll get pictures of the shelf later. It's pretty handy having out back there. And, the center bearing would bee a straight forward replacement. Geometrically, my u joints can't must be pressed out. They have too be milled out or the spider cap sawed in two with a cut off wheel. I should be getting my driveshaft back around noon today and reinstalling it.
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Man... I replaced my all my belts. They were shredded. I thought that this would solve a belt noise problem that I was experiencing. No go! I just couldn't seem to find a balance between sounding like I have a super charger and belts so loose that the squeal and chirp. I got one of those $10 parts store stethoscopes and started listening to things. Everything sounded really quiet and like mild engine noise until I checked the idler pulleys. I'm pretty sure that I'm going to need both of those. Touch the bolt on either one of those, and it sounds like there's a skateboard rolling over rough pavement inside my head. Apparently, the last person to change the belts on this thing didn't have a 19mm wrench because the lock nut on the top idler pulley is nearly rounded off. That's been frustrating to say the least. I'll be ordering some parts this Friday, it looks like.
In other news, I fixed the rust spots in my hood a few days ago. Now, I just have the whole rest of the truck to do the same with. http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8426/7...afc5acf9_z.jpg The windshield wipers are really rusty, but it's right on the top. Shouldn't take long to pull those off, sand them and repaint them black. Maybe I'll have time for that tomorrow. I have to work this weekend, so I'm going to have to put off driving up to Nashville and getting help replacing my wiring harness. |
I noticed the other day that my brake master cylinder leaks and has corroded the ˟˟˟˟ out of my brake booster. I only plan to put 33's with a mild lift on it, so I don't think that I need the full on brake upgrade that I've seen. I'm thinking about sticking with my stock set up at the wheels but replacing my master cylinder and booster with the parts spec'ed for a 90-94 or whatever.
Originally Posted by Terrys87
(Post 51956332)
Do you have what they call a shelf in the extended part of the cab? I have heard of it and was wondering what it is and if you could post some pics of it.
I am restoring mine. For now it is motor and interior. It is on the last few pages of my 88 runner build. Are you talking about the carrier bearing on yours? Those tend to be problematic and I will just have a solid shaft built as mine is missing any ways. Will be using your build to try and get mine back together. Subscribed. I'm sorry that I didn't ever put up pictures of that shelf. I've been really busy looking for a new job the last couple of weeks and totally spaced on that. If you still need them, I'll snap a couple tomorrow. I got all my drive shaft issues sorted. Carrier bearing was in good shape. I had to take it to a drive shaft shop to get the u-joints replaced. I just couldn't do anything with them. Apparently, it took the guy there like 3.5 hours to change them. I broke the slip yoke grease fitting off when I was trying to change them myself... had to EZ-Out the little part that was left. Came right out. I want to get on my interior. I really like the SR5 fabric on my seats and the adjustments that the driver's seat has. The passenger's seat is in pretty good condition, but the driver's seat is really worn out. I'm thinking about trying to find an upholstery shop that can restore them. I wonder if that fabric is available somewhere. I'm waiting to replace my wiring harness before I start my interior restoration. Here's a list of what I'm planning: Fix emergency brake light switch A previous owner removed the grilles and screwed speakers that don't fit in back there. I'm going to figure out a clean way to get 6x9's back there, since that's gross looking and sounded retarded. I'm going to put 4" speakers in the stock dash locations. I need to get a hold of the pockets that are supposed to be back there. Restore door panels a la https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...panels-256546/ I need to find a map pocket to put back in there on my side. I've spent hours cleaning and degreasing the undercarriage, but it's still pretty gross under there. I have a few occasional fluid drips that I notice. I'm going to go on a seal replacing mission eventually. |
So, there isn't really anything to see, but I changed my transmission gear oil to AMSOIL GL-4 and changed my motor oil to AMSOIL with a new OEM filter.
I adjusted the valves to .008/.012 warm, inspected my timing chain and tensioners, and replaced my valve cover gasket. I replaced all my heater hoses. I spent about 7 hours with a soldering iron and heat shrink fixing wiring in the dash. The radio has OEM style connections now. It has 4 factory size speakers nicely installed. The CD player is still just kinda loose in the dash. The factory mounting brackets are on order. Clock works now. I adjusted my brake light switch. I loctited in the little thingy that presses the parking brake switch. That works now. I removed a fair amount more wiring that was hacked up and went to nothing. I removed two switches that went to nothing. I noticed that several of the bolts that hold the bed down were loose or missing. I rustled up some M12 bolts, washers, lock washers and some rubber washers. That situation is sorted now. I found a small rust hole in the driver's side bed skin. I'm not sure what to do about that. I wire wheeled a ton of rusty spots in the bed and touch up painted those. I replaced the tailgate handle and put some pusher springs in the slam stop latch things. Tailgate has gone from non functional to working like new. I got a master cylinder and booster out of a 94 4Runner at the pull-a-part. I got those all cleaned up and need to drop them in. I noticed that the last leak I haven't sorted out is my rear pinion seal. I got a Marlin one. I have to get a seal puller, a harmonic balancer type puller, a breaker bar, some GL-5 and a little punch before I can get that jammer in there. That's what my truck and I have been up to since my last post. I'm still trying to save up for some fun stuff. |
This is happening, so I rebuilt my fuel injector wiring harness. Hopefully, that solves that problem.
I have Marlin high steer in the mail. I'll be getting the rest of my suspension stuff together over the next month or two. I'm going with Marlin steering box mount, OME springs, 5" shackles, Fox 2.0 IFP shocks, Davez rear shock mount, Trail Gear frame reinforcement plates and shock hoops. |
Just getting caught up on your thread and starting to get ideas for mine. The 84-85 section sometimes gets overlooked and I keep forgetting about all the great builds in this section. Maybe you will get your truck back soon and things can get back to normal.
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Ooh--you know which direction you could take with that truck?...
http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/att...-mcfly-old.jpg All it needs is some tube bumpers/rollbar, lights, black modular wheels and Goodyear Wrangler ATs, a wax job from Biff, and Jennifer riding shotgun. |
Man... It's been a while. Since my last part, I've moved twice, accumulated some parts, inherited my childhood home and am in the process of putting up a 30x40 shop on that property in Tennessee. I inherited all the tools that I was missing, so it feels like it's time to get this show on the road. The truck is in a sad state currently. It's sitting in my garage with four totally bald tires, only one holding air.
I've acquired a couple of diesel Jettas to keep me on the road over the last couple of years, so this thing is just for fun now. It was cool driving this thing everywhere, but 50mpg in the other car and working on this without that pressure to get back on the road are way better. The previous valve cover gasket replacement was a fail. I did that before I even knew the half moons were replaceable. I let it leak oil so long that it had dissolved part of my lower radiator hose. I've been chasing a coolant leak since I got the thing. The heater control valve is shot. The heater core is shot. The CFC radiator that I'd installed is a piece of crap and has been leaking since it was new. I ripped the dash out to get to the heater core. I found these threads useful: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f115...emoval-263039/ http://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/84-8...change.200424/ https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...50a66782da.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...58803f498a.jpg The radiator shop says that they are getting me a new copper heater core. This one is dead. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...725eb89eab.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...c9f685e518.jpg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...096e8a094f.jpg |
I made a wiring pigtail and installed a late style master cylinder and brake booster:
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...4be949d674.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...b967e6aec4.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...00368cf08b.jpg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...c871844803.jpg |
I replaced the valve cover gasket, half moons, and donut rubber washer things. Let's hope that's it for the oil leak. I put Ultra Black RTV on both all the way around the half moons and nowhere else.
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...5219a32175.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...cf72419e39.jpg The factory radiator is in the shop getting repaired, and I have every coolant hose. Ripped out the CFC piece of crap: https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...cb4a9e28cd.jpg |
Glad to see you back and getting some time with your truck. Hope all goes well for you.
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Man... Terry... I was looking at some of your recent posts. Your way of casually sharing tons of information is great. You've been steadily killing it at restoring these things for years now. That's really cool.
This thing should kick into gear now... I just ordered the parts were broken in the climate control controls, a thermostat, air filter, radiator cap from Toyota. I have used Marlin high steer, non leaking junkyard IFS steering box, and a u-bolt flip kit sitting around. I just ordered 5 33x10.50x15 BFG KM2, some OME springs, and Fox 2.0 IFP shocks (a pair of 10" travel and a pair of 11" travel). I placed an order with Dave's for an IFS box mount, some front and rear 5" shackles, a pair of front 12" shock hoops, and their rear shock relocation bar and front and rear braided stainless extended brake lines. Edit: The KM2s are backordered in that size. |
I picked up my radiator from the shop. It looks great (not that a nice coat of black paint has a lot to do with whether it's going to work).
The heater core they sourced was all aluminum, not copper like the guy said. It looked like decent quality but was made in China. It turned out to be the wrong inlet size and and wrong overall dimensions. I'm in the market for a set of e-lockers. There is a ton of info on Toyota differentials here. The front that fits a mini comes from a '90-'97 Landcruiser FJ/FJZ-80. The rear comes from a '95-'04 Taco or Tacorunner. There are a bunch of links on that page as to how the install and wiring go. Here, you'll find a sweet propane powered first gen build. Reading this thread was the tipping point toward choosing these Fox 2.0 IFP shocks. They seem to be the best value in a non emulsion, revalvable smooth body. |
Toyota says they don't sell these heater cores anymore, and I don't really want to put a piece of junk in there. I talked to the guys at The Brassworks in Paso Robles, California. They make custom heater cores. This morning I shipped them my heater core and heater box. They're going to send me a new custom copper heater core for between $250-300.
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...e60266ff6e.jpg The hubs on my truck are some kind of aftermarket mess. I have a set of AISIN's sitting around. I can't remember if I pulled them off of a first gen or the IFS truck that I got a steering box from. For future reference: Here's most everything you could need to know about AISIN hub interchangeability. Here's a four page discussion on rebuilding AISIN hubs. My truck needs the front axle rebuilt. It's a leaky mess. I'll do that at the same time I pull it out from under the truck to change out the steering what not. There is a great article on how to do that tear down and rebuild right here. In this thread, an 84 gets its front axle rebuilt, and Wabbit specifically addresses the depth difference between IFS and SFA AISIN hubs. In this thread, you'll find discussion of OEM seal kits for IFS boxes. The number for the complete kit is 04445-35080. From this thread I determined the correct part number for the power steering pump seal kit. It is 04446-20090. Here's a good writeup to supplement the FSM on the power steering pump rebuild. I saw today where Clemons posted some really useful part numbers.They are for a magnetic drain plug (9034118021) and steel (1215710010) and aluminum (9043018008) gaskets. They fit the diffs and the transmission. Choice of washer has to do with type of metal the plug is screwing into. I think Marlin also sells these things. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...b5735ea1f6.png Saved for future reference. Mild 85 build. |
I've ordered a front axle rebuild kit from Marlin.
I need to do the Differential Breather mod whenever I go to messing with the axles. For future reference, here is a great how-to on that. I also ordered $$$ in torque wrenches. I'll need those to do the timing belt job on the CJAA TDI motor in my wagon anyway. It still makes my stomach turn. Oh well... I was either going to do this now, or it was going to just keep looking more and more neglected over there on the far side of the garage. I dug out my junkyard AISIN hubs. They are 30 spline!!! They definitely came from a First Gen. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...a95715255b.jpg The truck currently has Selectro hubs. I wonder when these were put on. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...18484e7f22.jpg |
I got a little bit in before work today. I started replacing those pain in the butt coolant bypass hoses going to the throttle body. I got the top one that loops around the thermostat housing done, but then realized that there are four, not three in total.
The part numbers for the three I have are 16264-35030, 16261-35030, and 16267-35030. I'll have to figure out the fourth. There is also an air hose right there, going from that coolant valve to the throttle body. That thing is cracked and needs to be replaced. A big flathead screwdriver and a set of lineman's plyers seem to be the perfect tool combination for getting at these hoses. Edit: Coolant bypass hose: 16281-35010 2 Air hoses: 22233-35010 & 22234-35010 https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...441f353d33.jpg It really seems from the way that these things are accessed that it would be most convenient to do all three hoses and the thermostat at the same time. Having my radiator out right now really helps with access to the bottom three. The top one was smashed down between the head and the little metal vacuum channel deal. It was pretty much totally hidden. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...144587b0c4.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...4a6deb947c.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...16dc70259c.jpg The other two that I have are pictured here. There is another small one that comes from behind this one and runs up to the bottom of the intake where the big plastic metered filtered air tube connects. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...d2af87ec9f.jpg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...b21d6b7c28.jpg |
I started rebuilding my junkyard AISIN hubs. I'm missing a couple of seals. The process is mostly just cleaning the internals until they slide against one another smoothly. I have some snapring pliers in the mail. They would make this much easier.
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...c398fb4dd6.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...6315eaae32.jpg Over in this thread, iamsuperbleeder shares all the part numbers for the hub seals as follows:
Originally Posted by iamsuperbleeder
(Post 51505726)
there is indeed gaskets from the dealership; might take a day or two to get in though if they don't have them in stock
Dial Cover to Hub Body gasket - p/n 43531-60010 (pictured bottom left) Hub Body to Wheel Hub gasket - p/n 43422-60010 (pictured bottom right) if you're rebuilding them, you can also replace the O-ring in the dial; p/n 43532-60010 (pictured top middle) remember; you need two of each; one for each side. costs about $18 for all of them :great: http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n.../IMG_17552.jpg Time to bother my parts guy some more. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...e5fde15623.jpg |
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