88 Toyota headgasker
#23
Registered User
iTrader: (-1)
Just to touch on a few things here..
Inspect your coolant lines, look at the "cut" face of them. Do the fibers buldge out of the rubber, are there signs of separation of the inner and outer rubber, is there obvious moisture on the cords..
Weeping cords indicate a failing hose, gaseous (air) material can be sucked in thru this failed hose much easier than a liquid (coolant).
Don't over look a poorly constructed radiator mouth, it's pretty typical for the resin ones to have a sharp edge which can lead to the cap not working as well as intended (it will purge at a lower than specified psi) since it doesn't have equal contact across the rubber flange.
There is also the case of plugged water passages which create hot spots which allow the coolant to boil, boiling expands the volume of material inside the coolant chamber .
You can not back off the torque on a bolt by any given torque (10ft/lb), you can only back it off by degrees (1/4 turn). The physics are such that it's going to take more torque to release than were originally applied.
When you see talk about "re-torquing" a bolt what they are, or really should be, talking about is simply verifying that it was properly torqued in the first place and hasn't "slipped". We do this by heat cycling the engine, get it to operating temperature then let it cool off, and then applying a lesser torque value (95%) and seeing if the bolt twists. Ideally you'll not be able to move the bolt, but in some cases (such as debris, too much lube, a bad pull angle on the wrench) you'll find the bolt moves.
Blowing air across a cylinder (at any angle) creates a vortex, which will lift out " some " debris. The best way to blow out a hole is with a wand attachment sunk to the bottom of the hole, when done in this fashion all the pressure is at the bottom and the only movent will be outward.
Weeping cords indicate a failing hose, gaseous (air) material can be sucked in thru this failed hose much easier than a liquid (coolant).
Don't over look a poorly constructed radiator mouth, it's pretty typical for the resin ones to have a sharp edge which can lead to the cap not working as well as intended (it will purge at a lower than specified psi) since it doesn't have equal contact across the rubber flange.
There is also the case of plugged water passages which create hot spots which allow the coolant to boil, boiling expands the volume of material inside the coolant chamber .
- It's not always a failed gasket
You can not back off the torque on a bolt by any given torque (10ft/lb), you can only back it off by degrees (1/4 turn). The physics are such that it's going to take more torque to release than were originally applied.
When you see talk about "re-torquing" a bolt what they are, or really should be, talking about is simply verifying that it was properly torqued in the first place and hasn't "slipped". We do this by heat cycling the engine, get it to operating temperature then let it cool off, and then applying a lesser torque value (95%) and seeing if the bolt twists. Ideally you'll not be able to move the bolt, but in some cases (such as debris, too much lube, a bad pull angle on the wrench) you'll find the bolt moves.
- The proper angle to clear a blind hole
Blowing air across a cylinder (at any angle) creates a vortex, which will lift out " some " debris. The best way to blow out a hole is with a wand attachment sunk to the bottom of the hole, when done in this fashion all the pressure is at the bottom and the only movent will be outward.
#24
I would like to know if this gauge reading looks normal ? I don’t know what is considered normal for operating temp ? I have factory thermostat ! I don’t have the means to hook up any type of scan device to see what real temp is ?
Thx
Thx
#25
Registered User
Looks good to me. My harbor freight infrared thermometer pointed right at the thermostat housing reads exactly what the thermostat ratings are on my cars.
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