1986 2wd p/u not running and weber carb swap
 

I have a 1986 toyota pickup that I got back in july 2012. Ran fine has 150k miles on it. A couple weeks ago it started acting up. It would start up fine but after running 15-20 minutes and it was all warmed up it would die. Generally I had just been accelerating and let my foot off the gas then it dies. I replaced plugs, plug wires, distributer cap, ignitor coil, air filter, carb was rebuilt 700 miles ago, fuel filter changed then too. What else???

I bought a 38mm weber carb. I took off the stock one but can't get the wires to the electric choke off of it. Also I can't get 2 bolts on the intake manifold off to put on the new carb. Anyone have ideas? Thanks.

Could you be a little more specific to which bolts?And I belive the choke wire doesnt come off it will have to be cut and spliced in on the new carb.

Well, as far as the wires go, it's not hard to just cut them with enough length to still make a decent splice, then wire it up. It just needs 12v switched. As for the 2 bolts on the intake, are you referring to the studs that the carb mounts with? If so, try double nutting it. Just put 2 nuts on the stud, tighten the bottom nut against the top nut, and you should be able to spin the nut out with a wrench on the bottom nut.
Dropzone posted a good pic of the setup here:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f152...addddd-260922/

A couple things to look at, even though you already replaced the carb.

One, is checking to make sure the choke is operating correctly.

Two, check to make sure the vacuum controled choke pull-off is functioning correctly. Even if the choke is not opening up after the engine is warm, the choke pull-off will forcibly open the choke.

Three, check to make sure the EGR is functioning correctly. The EGR only becomes operational after the engine coolant reaches a certain temperature, like normal coolant temperature. Then the EGR Modulator uses intake vacuum (among other things) to regulate control of the EGR operation. If the EGR is malfuctioning, it is possible that the EGR will allow excess air into the air/fuel mixture to cause engine drivability issues.

From the pictures I've seen, you would need to create a jumper wire to connect the original wire, at the connector, to power the choke on the Weber carb.

I agree with JonnyBoy, cut the 12v power wire and splice into it. Double nut the studs and they'll come right out. I have the 38 on my '87 and love it. I removed all the smog crap. If you bought the Weber kit you have most everything you need with the exception of the egr block off plate for the rear of the engine. I made my own but you can buy one if necessary. IMHO the MOST important thing about the Weber is to follow the tuning instructions to the letter. Is takes some patience getting it tuned correctly.

thanks ill just do that for the wiring, yes it is the studs that the carb mounts on, i tried double nutting it and it is stripping the threads where the nuts are...

1) double nutting didnt work... is stripping the threads on the top of the studs
2) how do you remove the smog crap? which things are smog?
3) do you have to have the egr block off plate? and could i find that at a local autoparts store?

sorry guys im new too this and im trying to do everything myself

A lil heat on the base of the studs might help a lil if you haven't stripped the threads too bad yet. Otherwise, you might be looking at an EZ out situation and some heat.

I ended up getting the studs out with a stud extractor, of course the right tool does the job. I have encountered 3 problems now. It runs great, love the bottom end power.
1) there was a sensor that came off the stock carb that is attached to the wires that control the electric choke, I cannot find anywhere to put that sensor on the 38mm dgas weber carb.
2) the fan for airflow inside the cab no longer works, no heat, no air what so ever, the blower doesn't seem to work.
3) after getting on it a little the engine almost dies but doesn't, I just push in the clutch and it'll keep running at an idle, like it did before the swap. I have a feeling that my mechanical fuel pump is not keeping the float bowl full enough but I'm not sure? Maybe install electric fuel pump for this? Any help would be appreciated.

Give us some more details on your install. Did you install a fuel pressure regulator? Did you change any jets on the carb, or have you gone through the Weber tuning guide to see if you have the right jets? Did you use the adapter that was in the kit, or something else? Can we see some pics of this sensor you're referring to? I highly doubt the Weber needs it, but it might be a good idea to identify it before we tell you to just cut it off.

As far as the smog crap, if it didn't attach to the Weber (one vacuum line, the electric choke wire, fuel line & PCV) I yanked it out. I put a pipe plug in the manifold where a fitting with a bunch of vacuum lines was and capped off the vacuum switches that were left. The EGR block off plate can be purchased at LC Engineering for 8 bucks but I made mine. The Weber doesn't like fuel pressure over 4 lbs so I installed a pressure regulator and blocked off the return line on the stock fuel pump. As JonnyBoy said, give us a little more info and maybe some pics. I've owned my '87 for 20 years now and, once I finally got the Weber dialed in, it has never run as good as it does now.

I did not install a fuel pressure regulator, didn't change the jets but have gotten in running very good based off the guide of just adjusting the mixture screws and all. I will post a picture of the sensor when i can.

So by the Weber tuning guide you have the proper size idle jets? If not, and you've just adjusted the mixture screw past it's normal range, it can do some weird things at part throttle. And which adapter did you use to mount the carb?

i don't think i have the right size jets but its not acting weird and part throttle. i used the adapter that it came with the redline weber kit.
Since the blower is not working in the cab anymore i went to the local auto parts place and they think its either the blower motor or the relay/resistor. any opinions on this? it worked fine before the carb swap and now its not working at all

to address the issue of it dying after i have been accelerating pretty hard i figured out its not getting enough gas with the stock mechanical fuel pump. I was going to put on an electric fuel pump that will be at the right fuel psi for the weber carb. anyone agree this will fix the problem?

As far as I know, the carb and blower wiring are completely different circuits and totally unrelated. Probably a fuse, though, or something to affect the whole circuit. If it was just the relay, you'd lose a speed or 2, but full speed would still work. Most instances, anyhow. Hopefully not the motor, I would seriously check fuses, and even if they look good, try moving some around. I've had them look ok, but be bad.

Now, the Weber...it's important to have the right jets, no vacuum leaks, and fuel pressure correct. What you're talking about probably isn't the jet sizing, but you really can't know the right jet size til you know the fuel pressure is right and no vacuum leaks. First thing is check around that adapter for vacuum leaks. I tried like Hell to get that thing to seal, and I'm meticulous about gasket surfaces and such, but never did. Got the machined adapter from LCE, and had not a problem sealing, even with a reusable plastic "gasket" that came with the adapter, which don't seal well if anything is messing up the mating surfaces. Trans-dapt also has a good spacer that is easy to seal, 1 piece but taller. Take your pic, but I'd recommend one or the other over the adapter in the kit.
A fuel pressure regulator isn't expensive, I'd get one of them first, actually. If that doesn't do the trick, you should've gotten one in the first place anyhow, so you can avoid any other fuel pressure related problems later after you get this figured out.

I'm running the stock POS pump and it runs fine set at 3 psi. Are you sure it's not really flooding itself out after hard throttle runs? The stock pump can push fuel past the Weber needle and seat. Did you disconnect the return line on the pump that goes back to the tank? As far as the jets, the stock jets were way off in my case (on my 32/36 AND my 38). It's extremely important that you get the idle mixture screws within the allowance or you'll be chasing your tail forever. It's a PITA but well worth it once you get it jetted correctly.

This, too. Even before I went and synched my 32/36, I had to change the jets on mine with a basically stock 22r with an unknown brand long tube header. If the fuel pump was keeping up with the stock carb, it'll keep up with the Weber. They don't really go bad all of a sudden, but they will start leaking pretty fast if they're going bad.

I was able to get the cheezy Weber manifold/carb adapter to seal by putting some Hylomar gasket sealer on the gaskets. When I upgraded to the 38 I bought the LCE adapter JonnyBoy refers too. Nice piece!

alrighty I put on a fpr and its set at 3.5psi and its great! no more dying or anything. So i don't like electrical stuff very much and the blower still doesnt work. so can anyone tell me what i should do step by step to find out why its not working?