valves seem noisy aftyer adjustment on 22r
 

i just adjusted my valves for the first time since ive owned the truck. I ensured the engine was hot and I adjusted them to spec. the procedure said to adjust till there was SLIGHT drag on the feeler gauge so in did to where I felt SLIGHT drag. well slight being a relative term its open to speculation. I set them to .008 onintake and .012 on exhaust. all of my valves needed to be opened as there were about .006 or .007. now it just seems like they are noisy. maybe its just I was used to them not opening so much and this is just a noisy engine. any help is much appreciated.


on a separate note I have an 81 Toyota pickup 4x4 longbed. I have removed all the smog equipment leaving behing a bunch of wire plugs. I wanted to cut them but feel concerned as most of them have power (black wire with yellow stripe) . can anyone tell me the power source for them so I can terminate it at the source.i know its not the emission computer sice I checked with it disconnected and they still had power.

If you've just loosened your valves they'll definitely be noisier than you're used to. But looser, noisier is better than too tight. This has been gospel (tappy valves are happy valves) on my air cooled vws, my motorcycle, and this truck. If you're concerned about the gap, just check them again and confirm your settings held. But if you're confident in your adjustments, don't let the noise concern you. It is a loud engine with minimal sound deadening.

If you're unsure about your touch when estimating feeler drag, a Go-No go feeler set will eliminate doubts:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/KDE2424-KD-Tools-Spiral-Feeler-Gauge-From-0-004-to-0-027-0-10-to-0-69mm-/252086148924?hash=item3ab1815f3c&item=252086148924&vxp=mtr

De smog links
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f114...hreads-270843/

Did you adjust the valves at operating temp?
Did you adjust them using metric or standard feel gauges? If you looked at the metric specs and used standard feeler gauges it will be way out of spec

There is a lot of discussion on this forum about valve adjustment on these engines. I couldn't agree with TJ more. It is always better to have valves a little loose than tight. I have a six inch pound T-handle torque wrench that I use to tighten the valve adjusters with. I put the feeler gauge under the adjuster and tighten until the torque wrench clicks then tighten the lock nut down. This insures all the valves are set the same. Consistency in the adjustment helps much.

It seems like I could never get my valves quite right because I never quite understood 'slight drag.' I got a micrometer and set it to the same size as the feeler gauge. Then I slid the feeler gauge through it and that told me exactly what the drag should be. I would describe it as a firm drag, but still able to easily slide the feeler gauge through. I also noticed that with my setup, if I closed the micrometer around the feeler gauge to where I could not slide it out (which is way too tight), it is only about .0005 tighter. That tells me a tight feeler gauge that will still slide through should be fine. It seems to me that if you adjust the valves to a tight .008/.012, you are still well above .007/.011.

If you try that, make sure the micrometer is calibrated properly, and both the feeler gauge and micrometer are very clean. That can change really change the readings.

Also make sure you are not tightening the valve cover bolts too much.

I like the idea about the inch-lb torque wrench. Having them all perfectly the same makes for a noticeably smoother running engine.

I set my valves to .007 and .011 so that the feeler gauge slides in nice and easy, but are very tight if I try to slide .008 and .012 feelers through them. That seems to quiet down the valve train rather nicely. I also use a compressed air and a pressure gauge in each spark plug hole to double check that the cylinders are holding pressure when the valves are supposed be cold just to be sure that the valves are closed all the way. Also make sure that your CAMSHAFT is at the correct position when making the adjustments - Just because your crank is at TDC on #1 doesn't mean that your camshaft is; especially if the chain has jumped a tooth or the head or block has ever been decked because it will throw off the timing between the cam gear and drive gear. The correct way to check that is with a degreeing wheel and a micrometer.


I'm assuming that you are talking about these wires:
Attachment 118412

Attachment 118413

Attachment 118414

• BLUE PLUG (Pictured above)
  • Black w/ yellow stripe (heavier gauge) --> runs to the Cold Mixture Heater (CMH) on the bottom of the intake
  • Blue (heavier gauge) --> Ties into the "E" circuit (ignition power) - it will splice into a black w/ yellow wire somewhere under the dash before it runs into the ignition. The wire at your ignition will be black w/ yellow of a similar gauge.
• BLACK PLUG (Pictured above)
  • Black w/ yellow stripe (small gauge) --> runs back to the engine fuse (common wire that connects the VSV, Fuel cut off, CMH and magnetic valve back to the 15 amp engine fuse)
  • Blue w/ red stripe (smaller gauge) --> this wire is not correct. The previous owner switch the plugs to the VSV and the CMH relay. The blue w/ red shown (Cut) should be plugged into the VSV and a similar plug with a black w/ red wire should be plugged into its place and run back to the emissions computer. Both the blue w/ red and the black w/ red run back to the emissions computer.
• From your emissions computer (assuming non-california)
  • Black --> igniter
  • Green w/ blue --> speed sensor
  • Brown --> ground
  • Green w/ blue --> vacuum switch
  • Green --> splices into green w/ red going to the thermostatic switch
  • Yellow w/ red --> splices into yellow from alternator/regulator going to the charge light relay
  • Blue w/ red --> VSV
  • Black w/ white --> Fuel cutoff solenoid
  • Black w/ red --> CMH relay

If you want to cut all power to the emissions you can simply unplug the emissions computer and remove or cap off that heavy gauge blue wire going to the CMH. However, if you need an ignition power source, you could run that blue wire to a small auxiliary fuse box and that would carry enough amps for things like lights, radio, aux power outlet and such.

OR you can do what I did and remove all the emissions wiring completely. It really wasn't that hard and I did it in an evening. What I did was leave the harness in place and started unwrapping it at the emissions computer. I removed all the wiring coming from the computer and as I went I rewrapped the harness so as not to lose it's shape. The are few wires (such as the blue wire, the yellow w/ red wire, and grounds) that splice into other wires that you still need. Just make sure you tone them out on each end to make sure you are pulling out the right wire. I played it safe so as I went through the harness I only taped it back together every 6 inches or so and when I got to the end, I started going back the other way through the harness removing anything that was left from the first pass. There at a LOT of wires that can come out, but Worked out perfectly for me!

This is what it looked like after I finished pulling the emissions wires (obviously it is easier with the dash removed):
Attachment 118415

Attachment 118416

Attachment 118417

Attachment 118418

And this is what it looked like in a heap on the floor:
Attachment 118419

Shoot, didn't see that you had a different year. The wire colors may be different. Post some pictures and I can tell you what is what.

This is the first thing I'd check. The valve cover takes very little torque, and overdoing it just a little will cause the rocker arms to hit the underside of the cover and make a lot of noise.