De-Smogging an early 22R
 

Well, I have been threatening to post this for a while, and so here it goes.

I recently completed a complete de-smog on my 22R. In the process of doing this, I was amazed by the wealth of info on the carburetion for these trucks. I was also completely amazed by the lack of information on how to effect a de-smog. I know it is frequently done, and several companies (such as LCE) make block plates for smog components, but I couldn't seem to find a complete description of the best way to make this happen. So, after the fact, I will document here the steps that I took to make this work, hopefully this can be of some benefit to others in the future. Please excuse the lack of work-in-progress pics, my camera was unavailable until after I had completed the work.

With no further ado, here's the start.

The Process
 

So there are several parts to this puzzle:

1)Removal of the EGR valve
2)Removal of the PAIR valve
3)Removal of the Air Injection Manifold (the feed tube from the exhaust manifold to the PAIR valve)
4)Plugging the Air Injection ports on the exhaust manifold
5)Vacuum / Vacuum Switch removal
6)Vacuum re-installation

We will address these one by one.

cool I will be watching, post before and after engine bay pics, maybe use ms paint to lable and circle stuff??

Parts you will need:

Materials:
-EGR Block Plates - I bought mine here:
-2x 7/16 - 14 Set screws or bolts, less than 1/2" long.

Tools:

-Basic hand tools
-7/16 - 14 Tap

No before shots, alas, my camera was with the wife at the beginning of the project. I will try to fill in as needed with shots shamelessly stolen from other people's rigs :hillbill:

so does this strip it down to just a carb, with no vacuum hoses?

Before I really start, here's a nod to all the awesome posts and sites that I sourced this info from, listed below. Thanks a bunch for "paying it forward", this has been an enormous help.

22R Carb info. Very detailed, lots of diagrams.
http://www.bluebassdesign.com/boonin/carb_faq/

Pirate thread on Carb Tuning:
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=249626

LC Engineering, THE 22R builders. Quick responses to questions, excellent help and info, and good prices.
http://www.lceperformance.com/

Download your FSM here! Thanks TTORA!
http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/

Vacuum - Smog info
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f115...-84-22r-95780/

Canada Vacuum Diagram
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f114...agetti-156959/


Thanks again guys, you rock!

Very few hoses, and instructions on how to choose what is important to you as far as what vacuum lines you keep, and what you eliminate.

Also for the record, I feel compelled to state:

This thread is in no way to disseminate information for illegal use. If your vehicle is an on-highway vehicle, or if off-highway vehicles have smog restrictions in your area, DON'T DO THIS. This thread is for informational purposes only, for uses that are not regulated by smog restrictions.

First, you need to remove the EGR valve, the EGR vacuum modulator, and all attached vacuum lines. Remove the vacuum lines, and then remove the nut circled in the diagram below.

Attachment 185706

You can now remove the EGR tube that you previously disconnected from the EGR valve. Here is a pic of the tube, shamelessly ripped off from flyingbrass:

Then, remove the EGR valve from where it bolts up to the head. Here is a shot of my removed EGR, to give you an idea of the location and bolt pattern.

Attachment 185707

Now, you should be able to disconnect the EGR and remove it.

Subscribed!
Sweet thread - but now I can't sleep, keep the pics coming!

Next, removal of the PAIR valve or Reed valve. This bolts to the engine, just below the EGR, underneath the intake manifold. Due to the location, it is damn near impossible to get a pic with it installed. There are only two bolts holding this to the block, but finding them will be difficult.

The PAIR valve, in all its fury. The rear hose connects to the Air Injection Manifold that is attached to your exhaust manifold. The front hoses normally would go to a smog pump, I believe. Mine did not have one from the beginning, so they just had rags stuffed down the hoses. Obviously, it was doing a lot for me...

Attachment 185708

Here are two pics that show the mounting holes. The first shows where they are located, but you can't see the holes themselves that well. The second shot shows the side of the PAIR valve that is usually flush against the block, the mounting holes are clearly visible.

Attachment 185709


Attachment 185710

More posting tomorrow, I am out of steam now =)

You found it! Cool, I was gonna post a link for you when I got a bit further along...

Oh the suspense is killing me now:good:

HEY want a pic of the reed valve installed on the engine?
cuz i can get you one tomorrow.
I have a complete 22r pulled out of an 81', and sitting in a cj2a frame without a body on.
So if you need extra pics just tell me

SUBSCRIBED!!!
this is awesome, i was wonering about taking off the EGR because mines drawing too much vacuum through a leek, now i just need to make some block off plates. no smog regs wher i live, thanks pumpkinyota

Man would that be great! That has to be the worst visibility of any place on that block. When I pulled mine, I ended up pulling the intake, and cussing a lot when I saw that there wee only 2 12mm bolts holding it on the block... :bang:

Gotta hate that. Good work! There's a real lack of good write-ups on stuff people are always asking questions about.

Attachment 185698
Attachment 185699
Attachment 185700
Attachment 185701

Here ya go, i'm helping you help me, lol.

Awesome, thanks!

Cool. I just did this last week to my 81. I made my own EGR block off plates. The only vaccum lines I'm running are to the vaccum advance, and the power brakes. It sure runs better. I'll keep watching this to see if I need to do anything else. Dean

No problemo.

OK, finally done working, eating my dinner, and about to pour my scotch... I'm ready to post.

Here are some PAIR/Reed valve pics, with important bits noted (thanks Peow130!).

Here is the front mounting bolt for the PAIR valve:

Attachment 185711


And here is the rear mounting bolt. Also in this pic, circled in green, is where the PAIR valve attaches to the Air Injection manifold.

Attachment 185712



And here is a pic of the back of the block / back of the pair valve / back of the EGR. In this pic, red is the EGR valve mounted to the head, yellow is the PAIR valve itself, and green is where the PAIR valve attaches to the Air Injection manifold.

Attachment 185713

So basically, to remove the PAIR valve, you unscrew the fitting attaching it to the Air Injection manifold, and unbolt it from the block. Uncouple and unbolt and hoses, fittings, vacuum lines, etc., and rip it out!

So here is where the process will differ slightly by how your vehicle is built. Most people will have an air injection manifold that bolts onto the head through the exhaust manifold, like this:

Attachment 185714


However, there are an unlucky few, like me, who have a 20R style exhaust manifold, with air injection ports on top of the exhaust manifold itself, like this:

Attachment 185715


In either case, remove the bolts holding it to the head or manifold. Since you ave already uncoupled it from your PAIR valve, you should be able to finagle it around the engine block and remove that pile of crap from your engine bay.

Next up for removal, the smog pump. I a using the same 20r pic as above, the smog pump is in the same location on a 20R as a 22R. You should be able to pull belts, and pull the smog pump out. You will need to leave the bracket for now, as the motor mounts through that bracket :bang:

Attachment 185719

Tomorrow night: Vacuum line removal!

OK, there are several ways to go about removing all excess vacuum lines. How I did it is to fly redneck and by the seat of my pants, and basically just remove everything that wasn't attached to a brake booster or charcoal canister.

First, you should probably unbolt the vacuum hardline manifold from the head. There are two points where it bolts on, one is on the engine lift hook in the front, the other is bolted into the head in the rear. Disconnect the vacuum lines from this hardline manifold going to the distributor, BVSV, carb, etc., and pull it free gently. Since you have already removed the EGR and PAIR valves, there shouldn't be anything attached to this manifold other than the carb, BVSV, Distributor, High Altitude Compensator (on the distributor vacuum advance line), and the big bulky plate full of VSV's bolted to the passengers side inner fender.

Unbolt the VSV assembly from the passenger side inner fender. Now, you should be able to remove both the vacuum manifold and the VSV assembly completely from the vehicle.

In yellow: VSV assembly and vacuum manifold.

Attachment 185720

Now, we should have all your major smog system components disconnected. The only real things left are the ECM (emissions control module, the computer on the drivers side interior toe panel), the O2 sensor, and the fuel shutoff solenoid. We are going to leave this all connected for now, as removing and re-wiring this stuff is a little more in-depth. The ECM won't be controlling anything anymore, so it is OK to leave in. The fuel cutoff solenoid is actually nice, as it shuts off fuel delivery to the carb on ignition shutoff. The O2 sensor isn't doing anything anymore, you can leave it in place, or plate it off.

Our next step:

Blocking off holes.

Here are the things you need to block off:

EGR, where it bolted to the head.

EGR, where it bolted to the manifold.

Air injection ports, on the exhaust manifold.



If you have this style of exhaust manifold / air injection:
Attachment 185721

Here are the parts you need:

EGR block kit:
http://www.toyotacatalog.net/M1WebGe...4-D715971CF42D

Air Injection block kit:
http://www.toyotacatalog.net/M1WebGe...4-D715971CF42D


However, if you have this style of exhaust manifold / air injection:
Attachment 185722

Things are a little more complicated. You still need this EGR block kit:
http://www.toyotacatalog.net/M1WebGe...4-D715971CF42D

But you will need to either fabricate your own block plates for the Air Injection ports, or do what I did, and tap in some threads and install a plug.

Got any detailed pics of it, without the lines?
And do you just plug the ports coming off the carb, and whatntot?

To tap and plug this hole, here's what you will need:

7/16-14 tap
7/16-14 set screw or bolt, less than 1/2" long.

The process is simple. Tap out the hole, coat your bolt or set screw in locktite to ensure a good seal, and install it. Here's a pic of how this looks when completed:

Attachment 185723

Are you meaning the vacuum manifold, or the VSV assembly? In either case, I don't have any pics without the lines, as I don't have either installed in my vehicle right now. I'll be putting up complete FSM vacuum diagram scans a little later, but I just cowboyed up and started yanking vacuum on everything. Later on, I bought 10 ft of 3/32 vacuum line from Kragen, as well as 15 or so 3/32 plugs, and re-plumbed only those things that I wanted too, and capped the rest.

How and what to cap off vacuum wise on the carb is coming up a little bit later, I promise I am getting there :). This is a lot of info to compile, and I have little enough time to sleep between working as it is :P

Haha, it's okay.
I'm just eager to find out so that when i finally get my jeep all put together i can look back at this thread and determine what i need and what i dont need for it to stay running

So how does it run now? I've been scared to due this for two reasons. I can pump my pedal once and the truck fires right up into its high idle. The other is when I go wheeling, the carb actually works off camber. So does it still work how it should?

However, if you have this style of exhaust manifold / air injection:
Attachment 185695

wow I do not have those things on my truck??? I only have one small belt going around my alternator, waterpump and crank pulley. those other two are not on my truck. does that mean someone removed them at one time?

Attachment 185696[/QUOTE]


I also do not have any of those hoses on the fenderwell behind the battery that are circled. did someone de smog my truck at one point??? the plate is there but it only has two things on it and no hoses I think.

I also do not have any of those hoses on the fenderwell behind the battery that are circled. did someone de smog my truck at one point??? the plate is there but it only has two things on it and no hoses I think.[/QUOTE]


Your truck has probably been modified, I think even the canada version had more going on than this. As to the de-smog, do you have an EGR valve?

The truck still works well. Many people roll with non-functional EGR's for years without even noticing. There are probably as many failed out EGR valves in existence as there are working ones. As far as a difference in how the vehicle runs, there is some debate about this. Some people say that your engine will run a little warmer without an EGR, as much of the gas that the EGR re-circulates to your intake is mostly inert, and is taking up volume that could be used by combustable oxygen. Some say the opposite, that your vehicle will run a little cooler as you aren't re-introducing hot exhaust to the combustion mix. I personally haven't operated my vehicle enough after the de-smog to have noticed any seat of the pants difference in temp, although the truck seems to have more seat of the pants throttle response. I also have not seen anyone corroborate their argument on the temp change with any actual fact, so I would reserve judgement until I see factual data.

Also, to those following, I apologize for the post delay, I have had a bunch of stuff going on in the personal life. More posts and Carbeuration/Vacuum info coming tonight.