Are lockers suitable for a 1996 2WD Toyota 4Runner?
 

I have been blessed with a 1996 2WD Toyota 4Runner, automatic transmission (maybe not!). I have read many of the threads on yotatech.com discussing the different types of locking differentials. There are LSDs, manual locking hubs, and so on. Now my question is, are there any lockers that I can obtain/purchase to install on my 2WD 4Runner that are within a reasonable budget for the average joe? What may be my other options to regain more traction when off-roading? What websites may be helpful?

Other options, trade it in for a 4wd? You'll want to look into a automatic locker, or lunchbox locker like a Lockrite, Aussie (though I don't think they make them for V6 yet) or Detroit. If you do a search, you'll find plenty of info, infact theres a Locker FAQ thread. You'll be looking at around 250-350 for the locker, then what ever it will cost to have a shop put it in for you unless you do it yourself.

Thanks, so these are my best options? I dont think I will be trading my 4Runner anytime soon, haha! I will look into it!

A selectable locker would be your best choice if your rig is a daily driver. ARB's are my PERSONAL choice, but there are many out there to choose from.

My recommendation would to do some research and come to your own conclusion for what will work best for you...

A 2WD 4Runner, I feel bad for you. Just trade it in for a 4WD, you'd be happier!!

Did you read the FAQ sticky at the top of this forum?

Link --> https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f31/locker-faq-43572/

Just so you will know, manual locking hubs don't really have anything to do with the type of differential itself, and manual hubs aren't on a 2wd vehicle anyway. Manual locking hubs (on a 4wd vehicle that's equipped with them) have a dial that you get out and turn, which when engaged, basically connects each front axleshaft to each front wheel. With the hubs engaged, the truck can be put in 4wd. With the hubs disengaged, the truck is in 2wd.

Anyway, like was said before, I would get a 4wd.

However, with the right tires in a larger size and a rear locker, you can certainly make a big difference in the off road performance of what you have.

For the best combination of price, durability, performance, and drivability, I would get the Powertrax No Slip. It is about 80% smoother and 98% quieter than the Lock Right and it's clones. And since the No Slip's coupler halves separate while differentiating, instead of rubbing together while ratcheting like a Lock Right and it's clones, there is much less wear.

I once had a Lock Right in the Ford 8.8 rear end of the '94 Mazda Navajo 4wd I had (same as a same year 2 door Ford Explorer). After about 37,000 miles, it wore out. I replaced it with a No Slip, which I had in the vehicle about 80,000 miles until I totalled it. When I removed it, it still looked as good as new. I sold the No Slip, and it now sees duty in the rear of an F150.

Having had both a Lock Right and a No Slip in the rear of the same vehicle is a good test. If you want a lunchbox locker, get the No Slip. It is definately wort the extra $100-$150 over the price of the Lock Right and it's clones.

Other than that, get a selecatable locker. However, the No Slip is much cheaper (would definately fit into your budget), and the average mechanically inclined vehicle owner can install it in a couple of hours with no special tools or labor costs needed (an advantage over a selectable locker or Detroit Locker).

Well, as stated, on a 2wd, you will need neither locking hubs nor more than one locker. You need a single rear locker.

I can do most of the trails in colorado in 2wd, with the rear locked. You won't be rock crawling, but 2wd is fine. I second the recomendation of ARB. With the auto, you'll be able to take things slow enough to not bounce your brains out, and maintain traction.

Just take a buddy along, so he can pull you out if you get in over your head.

Good luck.

Thanks for your help, will look at all the recommendations!

I would never spend $800 on a selectable locker for a 2wd vehicle. Just not smart spending. I've taken my 4runner in 2wd about as far as you can go without just getting 4wd. No locker can get over having powered front wheels.

Agreed. I'm would never argue that point. But being that he is from SoCal a 2wd vehicle is not uncommon, and if he plans on keeping the vehicle a selectable locker would not be a bad option.

-And $800 is waaaay too much for a ARB. Shop around :D

get an auto locker, youll get used to it. can get one for 250 dollars. arbs are nice but may be out of your budget.

Do the E-locker swap. They are not that hard to find and are a lot less of a hassle than an ARB.

ill second the above post about the E-locker swap. I have an Elocker on my rig, it works great and never bangs around or unlocks randomly like some others do.

My personal 2cents though, i would make it 4x4 first. Wouldnt be that hard to do, you would need a front differential, and the CV axles and hubs. You may need to switch you transmission out for a A340H or R150F with a Tcase, unless your tranny has a removable back in which case you can just add a tcase. Then you need a front driveshaft and a shorter rear drievshaft and your ready to go!

An ARB and the compressor it needs for less than $800? And that's not even including labor to install it right (or the tools needed for him to install it right, assuming he has the experience), and anything else that might be needed for the install.

A No Slip could be had for about $400, maybe $440 at the very most, and a Lock Right or Aussie could be had for $250.

A lunchbox locker is still a better value than an ARB. I don't see the need for an ARB in a 2wd either.

No ARB for a 2wd? Why? An ARB works the same in both. The reason you buy selectable is for on road manners. Why is it that you feel that a 2wd should have crappy on road performance, but not a 4wd?

yep the same rear end, basically its just looking for the right locker

you are looking at 750 or so for the locker, 150 for a compressor. not sure about airlines and such, and probablly about another 300-500 for install.

gestimate about 1200 total.


and to those who keep telling him to trade, either hush or dont post.

as AxleIke has stated with selectables being better onroad

a lunchbox locker aka automatic, with the pedal not pressed it is essentially unlocked, so around corners you hear the click clunk, when touching the gas it will lock itself up and you will chirp the tires around the corner depending on how hard a turn you take.

it will pop every so often turning or going sorta straight as well which can either scare the ### out of you or piss you off when you have ppl in the car.

auto's are cheaper, but you pay a premium for a locker without the drawbacks of an auto. aka the arb,

about an elocker, modifications have to be done to the housing, i have been debating getting a already built diff with 4.56s done, now I dont know what modifications have to be done, but it can be time costing and could be a headache.

just food for thought.

mine used to be 2wd just to let you know, i converted using inchworms prerunner adapters and their lefty case with twinsticks.

I've had auto lockers in 4 wheel drives. With the exception of one rear Lock Right wearing out (much less of a chance of that with the No Slip), I never really had crappy performance. I did have to learn to drive with a rear auto locker because it does drive different, but it certainly wasn't crappy. And the No Slip that I had (after the Lock Right, same vehicle) works better on road than the Lock Right does.

With a 4wd, however, auto lockers do tend to increase transfer case binding while trying to steer. At least an unlocked selectable locker wouldn't bind as bad, and won't fight drectional changes as bad, so that is one advantage of an ARB in a 4wd.

But transfer case bind is a moot point in a 2wd anyway, and the resulting lack of directional control isn't an issue, so there's less of a need for a selectable locker in a 2wd.

That's reason #1 why I recommended the No Slip.

I lived with auto lockers in a daily driven, short wheelbase, manual transmission 4wd for about 7 of about 8 1/2 years. It really wasn't all that bad, especially with the No Slip. An auto locker in a 2wd 4Runner, which has a longer wheelbase than what I had, and an automatic transmission, should be easier to live with as a daily driver than what I had.

Thats reason #2 why I recommended the No Slip.

And if he gets a No Slip like I recommended, it will handle better on road and be quieter than the Lock Right/Aussie, which is reason #3 for recommending the No Slip.

Also, since he certainly wouldn't be doing more radical off roading like a 4wd is capable of (such as rock crawling), there would be less need for the added strength of a full carrier replacement locker like the ARB.

That's reason #4.

He also did say something about wanting a lower cost option, which a lunchbox locker has, which is reason #5.

Yes, an ARB is a good thing, and I'm not debating that. But for less money, I think the No Slip will work just fine for him.

I agree with that. Just thought that we should clarify that ARB's aren't bad for 2wd's.

i just paid 1488 for a brand new ready to run 3rd member, with 5.29s, ARB locker, and the fullsize ARB compressor (the air lines and wiring harness comes with) shipped to my door. but thats with a 10% discount....