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-   -   to supercharge or not to supercharge!? (https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/supercharge-not-supercharge-98738/)

midiwall 02-22-2007 12:04 PM


Originally Posted by Stevo3 (Post 50443175)
uhh ohh, looking at your pics on the injectors part. i noticed you have the free fmu mod. i connected my boost part to the wrong thing :bang: . i hope i didnt hurt anything by doing so. looking at the pic that 96runner showed me was the wrong regulator :( connected the boost port to the regulator on the TB.

oops. :)

I figure you're talking about Brian's pic here:

http://home.comcast.net/~mastacox/We...gerRemoved.jpg

Yeah, that's the Fuel Pressure Regulator there in the back driver's side.

So... the boost port is hooked up to the regulator on the TB? wow... that's the idle-up kicker, I dunno what would happen when the diaphragm in the kicker sees 6psi.

And where's the FPR hooked up to? The stock place is a nipple on the intake plenum, but that's gone when the SC goes on...

mastacox 02-22-2007 12:23 PM

Hey, my website actually helped! SWEET!

I also have ANOTHER T-fitting in the line now for the FTC1, it's quite a tree of fittings.

midiwall 02-22-2007 12:28 PM


Originally Posted by mastacox (Post 50443277)
Hey, my website actually helped! SWEET!

(oop! I meant to also add...)

GREAT writeup Brian!



I also have ANOTHER T-fitting in the line now for the FTC1, it's quite a tree of fittings.
Dude... I have 4 things hanging off that port: FPR, Boost gauge, Methanol controller, ESC1.

I noticed on on of my visits to Shucks that they make multi-port trees. The problem is trying to deal with how the destinations are all over the place. :)

Speedy 02-22-2007 01:33 PM


Originally Posted by midiwall (Post 50443242)
Lemme jump in on some of your other questions...

If you burn up your engine, Toyota will deal with it provided that you don't have anything extra installed. I think there are people around here that have gone that route.

Much of what we preach is based on watching things like EGT and A/FR and knowing that the numbers on an un-modified install are just wrong, and in the "damage" zone. So, call our babbling "preventative soapboxing based on paranoia according to physics with occasional pieces of empirical data". I mean, it's not rocket science to get from 1550* EXHAUST temps to "you burned a hole in a piston!".


I think you and I have talked about this, but I have a thread running called "3.4 rebuild" that has pictures of the aftermath of running lean - and I _did_ have the mods. Something went south, we may never know just what.


Correct.


Depends on what your threshold of "drive ability" is. :)

It kicks pretty hard, not like a drag car, but hard enough that you'll lurch as you drive around town. Some folks turn down the adjustment on the kick-down cable to soften it a bit. Personally, I lived with a slipping tranny for so long that I _like_ having that kick. You KNOW that sucker's locked up!

Hmmm, I wouldn't like much lurching.

Also after reading Brian's page I'm not to keen on soldering on my injector harness either. I'm proficient enough with a soldering iron, I just prefer to keep things bolt on for my daily driver, so that they can easily be removed later.

Maybe the 7th injector is more for me if I decide to go through with this? Then get the upgrade kit from URD for the 7th?

I wish I could ride in one of these to see if I like it or not.

I went all out on a 1997 Tacoma and ended up hating the truck. It looked great with 6" of lift and 33s on 15x10.5s Centerlines. It would go anywhere with the lockrite rear end. Driving it on the road everyday sucked. Clickity clickity bang bang went the lockrite in parking lots, and it rode like a wagon. I ended up selling the truck a year later after doing the mods. Luckily it looked "cool" and I got all but $500 back out of it, but I felt lucky.

I don't wanna make that mistake with the 4Runner. I specifically bought this 2002 used because I really don't care for the new style. I test drove a 4th Gen in 2003 and quickly found a 2002 the next week before they became scarce. I would like some more grunt from the motor to make passing and what not easier, but not at the sacrifice of every day drivability.

This is gonna be a tough decision.

midiwall 02-22-2007 01:44 PM


Originally Posted by Speedy (Post 50443348)
Hmmm, I wouldn't like much lurching.

Well, don't think that you're popping a wheelie, but the tuck will definitely kick a bit.



Also after reading Brian's page I'm not to keen on soldering on my injector harness either. I'm proficient enough with a soldering iron, I just prefer to keep things bolt on for my daily driver, so that they can easily be removed later.
No option for soldering there... You can't use crimps, they're just not reliable enough.



Maybe the 7th injector is more for me if I decide to go through with this? Then get the upgrade kit from URD for the 7th?
Maybe, but you still have the issue about bullet proofing the tranny.



I wish I could ride in one of these to see if I like it or not.
Where are you in the world? (hint: fill in the "location" in your profile)



I would like some more grunt from the motor to make passing and what not easier, but not at the sacrifice of every day drivability.
Hmmm... well, you could opt to not do the VB, but I can tell you from personal experience that it would be a mistake. Depending on how you drive, you'd be replacing a tranny in 30k or less.

Speedy 02-22-2007 02:28 PM


Originally Posted by midiwall (Post 50443364)
Well, don't think that you're popping a wheelie, but the tuck will definitely kick a bit.


No option for soldering there... You can't use crimps, they're just not reliable enough.


Maybe, but you still have the issue about bullet proofing the tranny.


Where are you in the world? (hint: fill in the "location" in your profile)


Hmmm... well, you could opt to not do the VB, but I can tell you from personal experience that it would be a mistake. Depending on how you drive, you'd be replacing a tranny in 30k or less.


Thanks for all the info. I just finished reading all 5 pages of your 3.4L Rebuild thread. YIKES. I'd cry if that happened to my 4Runner. I'm not lucky enough to know anybody to help me out in a situation like that and I'd end up probably spending the price of a new truck to get it fixed.

When that happened what were your mods? Have they changed from your sig? I see the 2.2" pully, Supra MAF, headers, etc. What fuel mods were in there?

I'm trying to do this "bolt on" so that if I do have any problems I can strip it off and go back to NA pretty easy. I'm guessing the best way to do that:

SuperCharger
7th Injector
URD 7th Injector Upgrade Kit
IPT Valve Body work

That'd be about $3000 if my math's right. My 4Runner's been paid for since last summer, so I figured putting some money into upgrades was justifiable. I started off just thinking I'd do the TRD Wheels, Sport Hood, Fog Lights, and Tube Steps. Then I found this place and now I've done the TRAC Mod, Fog Light Mod, ISR Mod, deck plate, and ADDCO sway bars.

Now I'm working on Magnaflow cat back, TrueTrac, and eyeballing a SC. You guys are a horrible influence!

I think the SC would be a nice cap to the project, but not at the detriment of the reliability of the vehicle. How many guys are burning up motors with this thing?

Edit:

I'm not a very aggressive driver in this thing. I've got a CBR1000RR for that kinda stuff. I assume that makes a big difference in longevity?

midiwall 02-22-2007 03:19 PM


Originally Posted by Speedy (Post 50443412)
Thanks for all the info. I just finished reading all 5 pages of your 3.4L Rebuild thread. YIKES. I'd cry if that happened to my 4Runner.

I cried and I _DID_ have local people to help me out - in terms of technical expertise and cost-savings! :)



When that happened what were your mods? Have they changed from your sig? I see the 2.2" pully, Supra MAF, headers, etc. What fuel mods were in there?
The only thing that's new in terms of the engine is the long duration cams. Everything else was there before.

Fuel mods wise, I run larger stock injectors (not the 7th) and use a Perfect Power SMT5 as the controller. It's similar to the Split Second FTC1 that URD sells.



I'm trying to do this "bolt on" so that if I do have any problems I can strip it off and go back to NA pretty easy. I'm guessing the best way to do that:

SuperCharger
7th Injector
URD 7th Injector Upgrade Kit
IPT Valve Body work
Yeup, that'll work.



Now I'm working on Magnaflow cat back, TrueTrac, and eyeballing a SC. You guys are a horrible influence!
You're welcome!



How many guys are burning up motors with this thing?
Well, I'd like to think that "many are saved" but the truth is we don't know. As you've searched and wandered this forum, you can see all the people that "we" have pounced on. I think that we've been mostly successful in getting people to do the mods, or not put the SC on.

To be fair, you'll also find people that are "fine" without any mods. But I don't know of any of those folks that are running A/FR and EGT gauges thus giving proof that they're "fine". All of these people talk about "I don't hear any ping, so I'm fine". Okay, if you say so.

I sidestepped your question a bit... I don't know that anyone short of Toyota would have the numbers for the failures. You gotta figure that for every person on a forum, there is a large number of people that aren't.

As well, YT isn't a big engine performance mods forum... We're made up of mostly soft->medium off-road folks and very little street people. I can only think of two 3.4L turbo people on here, and maybe 10-15 SC people.

CustomTacos is a huge street performance hang out - they may have more data, but URD is VERY active over there and does much of the preaching on this themselves.




I'm not a very aggressive driver in this thing. I've got a CBR1000RR for that kinda stuff. I assume that makes a big difference in longevity?
:) Yeup, you betcha'. The tranny will last a lot longer if you're not "off the line" and pushing on the 1st->2nd shift. That's the major weak spot.

midiwall 02-22-2007 03:21 PM


Originally Posted by midiwall (Post 50443364)
Where are you in the world? (hint: fill in the "location" in your profile)

Ahh... you're in Nashville. (thanks btw!)

I know that there are folks on here from Nashville, and I'm thinking that one of them is SC'd. Maybe start a new thread with a title like "NASHVILLE: Looking to test drive a valve body mod!". hopefully it'll get you a response.

mastacox 02-22-2007 03:33 PM


Originally Posted by midiwall (Post 50443284)
(oop! I meant to also add...)

GREAT writeup Brian!


Dude... I have 4 things hanging off that port: FPR, Boost gauge, Methanol controller, ESC1.

I noticed on on of my visits to Shucks that they make multi-port trees. The problem is trying to deal with how the destinations are all over the place. :)

EDIT: Don't you have 5 things with the SMT5?

Thanks man, I still haven't gotten around to writing the FTC1-E installation section yet, because I'm lazy mostly. I don't have pics yet (it was very late in the night when I did it, around 3-4am, and I was very ready to be done) so I need to take the glove box out, and snap some pics. Oh crap, I have to take out my gauge cluster to show where the FTC is sitting, ug... maybe when I install the switches and voltage/current meters for my on-board air.

That, and I need to do a better job of zip-tying things around in there, it's sort of a mess right now but like I said I was tired and everything works so you know how it goes.

And then there's the matter of doing wirte ups for my Wideband AFR setup, and my auxillary fuse box that is powering everything. Maybe someday :think:

midiwall 02-22-2007 03:43 PM


Originally Posted by mastacox (Post 50443478)
EDIT: Don't you have 5 things with the SMT5?

:) I was waiting for that! No, the SMT5 doesn't have a MAP sensor, it runs from TPS or MAF. The MAP sensor showed up in the Perfect Power line at the SMT6.



Thanks man, I still haven't gotten around to writing the FTC1-E installation section yet, because I'm lazy mostly. I don't have pics yet (it was very late in the night when I did it, around 3-4am, and I was very ready to be done) so I need to take the glove box out, and snap some pics. Oh crap, I have to take out my gauge cluster to show where the FTC is sitting, ug... maybe when I install the switches and voltage/current meters for my on-board air.
:) and this is why I haven't started a write-up of the methanol controller! The back stepping SUCKS.



That, and I need to do a better job of zip-tying things around in there, it's sort of a mess right now but like I said I was tired and everything works so you know how it goes.

And then there's the matter of doing wirte ups for my Wideband AFR setup, and my auxillary fuse box that is powering everything. Maybe someday :think:
and... and... and...

yeup. :)

Stevo3 02-23-2007 03:24 AM

Well as soon as i left work i went to get gas right down the road, and while filling up poped the hood and found the fuel regulator, followed the line to the little box on the intake.

So i just diconnected it from where the extension fitting was and put it on the boost line :) .

To answer your question about hooking it up to the idle w/e it was, im guessing it did nothing. Idle didnt wig out at all and all seemed well. Even went to Glamis and back which is about a 450 mile round trip. Its ashame im taking it off either this weekend or next. depending on which weekend i get off. getting an overhaul on the s/c. and well the urd kit.

Uhm how hard is it to change a clutch on the 4x4??? i bought the trd clutch. just hadnt had it installed yet cause i dont want to spend stealer ship prices. Although it wasnt that much. 250$ installed with flywheel machined..

With that said, Thanks mastacox. One more thing, can you post a pic of where the hose goes from the regulator on the TB? i kinda forgot since i had the wanna be free fmu mod done....

Stevo3 02-23-2007 09:21 AM

i know you guys are on :con:

Speedy 02-23-2007 09:26 AM


Originally Posted by Stevo3 (Post 50444144)
Well as soon as i left work i went to get gas right down the road, and while filling up poped the hood and found the fuel regulator, followed the line to the little box on the intake.

So i just diconnected it from where the extension fitting was and put it on the boost line :) .

To answer your question about hooking it up to the idle w/e it was, im guessing it did nothing. Idle didnt wig out at all and all seemed well. Even went to Glamis and back which is about a 450 mile round trip. Its ashame im taking it off either this weekend or next. depending on which weekend i get off. getting an overhaul on the s/c. and well the urd kit.

Uhm how hard is it to change a clutch on the 4x4??? i bought the trd clutch. just hadnt had it installed yet cause i dont want to spend stealer ship prices. Although it wasnt that much. 250$ installed with flywheel machined..

With that said, Thanks mastacox. One more thing, can you post a pic of where the hose goes from the regulator on the TB? i kinda forgot since i had the wanna be free fmu mod done....


For $250 why fool with it yourself? Laying on the ground dropping a tranny doesn't sound like fun to me. I'd definitely let the dealer do it for that money.

midiwall 02-23-2007 09:27 AM


Originally Posted by Stevo3 (Post 50444443)
i know you guys are on :con:

(actually, you didn't know I was on but... :))

I can't help you much with the clutch, but the idle-up actuator runs to the other side of the TB (so, "downwind" of the butterfly) to a brass pipe that's sticking out of the back side. I'm at work so I can't get you a decent picture, but it should be pretty apparent.

mastacox 02-23-2007 09:32 AM


Originally Posted by midiwall (Post 50444451)
I'm at work so I can't get you a decent picture

X2

When I get home I'll try to find something, I took a bunch of pics of my engine during supercharger removal...

mastacox 02-23-2007 09:34 AM


Originally Posted by midiwall (Post 50443492)
:) I was waiting for that! No, the SMT5 doesn't have a MAP sensor, it runs from TPS or MAF. The MAP sensor showed up in the Perfect Power line at the SMT6.

Hmm, is that as effective as an MAP sensor? I would think changes in altitude really mess with your tune. :bang:

faubrunner64 02-23-2007 09:48 AM

lol someone needs to make a s/c for a second gen lol jk

midiwall 02-23-2007 10:09 AM


Originally Posted by mastacox (Post 50444467)
Hmm, is that as effective as an MAP sensor? I would think changes in altitude really mess with your tune. :bang:

Yeup, you're right. Running an SMT6 would give me a better tune. Johnny and I have talked about it (he's a PP dealer), and I was ready to get one, but then a pesky engine rebuild got in the way.



Originally Posted by faubrunner64 (Post 50444483)
lol someone needs to make a s/c for a second gen lol jk

"jk"? You shouldn't be... :)

Check into LC Engineering.

Stevo3 02-23-2007 10:52 AM

i was just double checking where that line went, i have it in the coorect spot. no need for pics now. from what midiwall explained i know its where it should be. thanks for the help guys. after i switched it and drove for about 50- 100 miles (had some shopping to do for my golfcart) this morning when i got on it a lil bit i did notice to get pushed back in a my seat more than usual. fuel mods here i come. i want one of those 300+ hp yotas :hillbill:

Bennito 02-23-2007 12:31 PM

This is off topic - but is anyone surprised that no ones collected the data to make a weibull analysis of the supercharger? Trolling other forums it seems they all have their own personalities and spins on the supercharger. (my own opinion) YT: fuel mods / tranny mods required for reliability. TT: just as many people blow up engines with fuel mods as without. CT: fuel mods have to be done to get max performance.

I'm not motivated enough to collect the data - but I must admit I'd love some data to go with the conventional wisdom (not just for SCs and engines but auto tranny's and even manual trannys).


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