Bigtrucknwheels' 90 Pickup 7M-GE Swap
After many years of thinking, planning, and talking about this swap, the time has finally arrived for my truck to get a new heart. Welcome to my build thread, I hope you are as excited as I am to be here :hillbill:
The victim: 1990 Toyota Pickup Std Cab DLX with 22RE, 4WD 5 speed The motor: 1987 7M-GE from a Toyota Supra N/A The objective: To have some scoot in the passing lane and the ability to tow a trailer without catering to the budget needs or custom fab work of a 5VZ swap. What I have bought so far: *7M-GE *Bellhousing and clutch setup from same Supra *Wiring harness and ECU *Complete exhaust including OBX header *Complete intake and ignition systems *All belt driven accessories + radiator and cruise control unit (for a later project) ^^All the above came as a package deal from a parts car^^ Price: $480 5M-GE motor mounts - $25 shipped (random forum find) New 22RE rubber motor mounts - ~$45 shipped (RockAuto) What I still need: Undetermined rubber hoses and steel lines + clamps and fittings 7M-GE front sump oil pan off a Cressida to clear the IFS front diff. Where I stand: Still a long ways to go, I just got the engine on the stand. But hey, thats why its a build thread, so you guys can follow along. Pics to follow tonight! I'm at work right now and can't put them up. |
i will watch this go down! good luck
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Why the 7M?
Don't those have more HG issues than the 3.0? Though I'm pretty sure I've seen a lot of aftermarket solutions to solve the problem. There's a TRD metal head gasket that I think solves the problem. |
Subscribed. Also considering a 7M rather than a 5VZ when the time comes.
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Glad to see you finally doing something lol!
So, you're gonna take that body off and make it easier to mount the engine on the frame right? |
Originally Posted by ProjectMcFly
(Post 51735756)
Why the 7M?
Don't those have more HG issues than the 3.0? Though I'm pretty sure I've seen a lot of aftermarket solutions to solve the problem. There's a TRD metal head gasket that I think solves the problem. Advantages: -Ease of installation: The 7M with 5M motor mounts is almost a direct bolt in swap for a 22RE truck, with no motor mount or transmission mount changes (fits in the stock location), much like the 5VZ is to a 3VZ -Cost! As you can see, I have very little invested thus far, and pending any doom (knocks feverishly on wood), I should be driving the new swap for less than $1000. No 5VZ swap will touch that price neighborhood -Power similar to the 5VZ. I went the NA route, which should give me around 200 lb-ft and 190 HP. While its 20 less pound-foot of torque, the high revving nature, slightly more horsepower, and completely flat (google a dyno from one :hillbill:) torque curve of the 7M should compensate nicely -Badass factor of the inline 6, not many guys running one Disadvantages: -Namely head gaskets. The issue with the 7M is mostly due to improper torque specs on the head. I will be retorqueing mine before the engine goes in the bay. A new metal headgasket and proper torque specs on the NA engine will all but cure the headgasket woes. I went NA for exactly that reason, as the turbo, even with lots of work, is besieged by the nasty headgasket gremlins. -Weight: the 7M is HEAVY, ask me how I know :D -Custom cooling situation. I will have to hack the rad support and do a little fab work for the cooling system, as well as some custom power steering lines. In the grand scope of things, however, I feel this is a negligible detail, even a 5VZ swap requires some workarounds. And in case you were wondering, NA > turbo for me because of headgaskets, cost, and offroading. The last thing I want is that turbo spooling while I am trying to craw over some sharp rocks or something haha. |
That sounds reasonable enough. I just wanted to make sure you knew about the HG thing.
To solve your concern about a turbo spooling when you're off-road...just run a monster turbo...by the time it spools you'll be home :D |
13 Attachment(s)
and now, as promised, some pictures :hillbill:
please forgive the quality, they are cell phone pics for now, but I will be using a real camera from here on out. The truck: Attachment 200756 not bad for $250, eh? Attachment 200757 tired 22RE with undisclosed "rattle" I never did put it all back together to find out what it was, but given the mileage and the description of the sound, I would place a lot of money on timing chain :D Attachment 200758 The motor: When I went to get it Attachment 200759 sweeet 7M goodness Attachment 200760 random crap that came with it, I promise I won't be using those FRAM filters :D Attachment 200761 W58 bellhousing off the NA Supra. This is a direct bolt on to the W56 found in my truck Attachment 200762 ECU end of the engine wiring harness Attachment 200763 Finally got it off the truck and onto the engine stand Attachment 200764 the truck and engine shall soon be one Attachment 200765 I pulled the clutch off before I put it on the engine stand Attachment 200766 Looks like it has enough life left in it for me! I would like to drive it about 20k miles (a year) and do the clutch job then. Attachment 200767 oh yeah, she's golden :hillbill: Attachment 200768 and that will be all of the pictures until the shop is cleaned up... Its so full of crap you can't even move in there haha. Next up is tracking down a 7M Cressida to get the oil pan and pickup tube off of. Then cleaning and painting of the engine/removal of the 22RE. Stand by for more updates :D |
Originally Posted by ProjectMcFly
(Post 51735816)
That sounds reasonable enough. I just wanted to make sure you knew about the HG thing.
To solve your concern about a turbo spooling when you're off-road...just run a monster turbo...by the time it spools you'll be home :D |
Very nice work man. I also will be watching this.....
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Yes this is very interesting I am also close enough to take a peek in person of that would be permitted .
Why not buy a new oil pan and pick up tube as I am in the process of getting ready to do the swap with turbo. I have a new oil pan and it was not all that expensive . Funny my truck is red Also:camp: |
Originally Posted by wyoming9
(Post 51735979)
Yes this is very interesting I am also close enough to take a peek in person of that would be permitted .
Why not buy a new oil pan and pick up tube as I am in the process of getting ready to do the swap with turbo. I have a new oil pan and it was not all that expensive . Funny my truck is red Also:camp: |
Originally Posted by wyoming9
(Post 51735979)
Why not buy a new oil pan and pick up tube as I am in the process of getting ready to do the swap with turbo. I have a new oil pan and it was not all that expensive . |
I bought mine from my dealer Krause Toyota
To be honest I don`t remember how much it was but I do know I thought it was reasonable. Then I do have a very good relationship with them I have had bills over a $1000.00 in a month . I will see if I can find the part # I am going down there in a few hours I will check on a price.:camp: |
Really looking forward to this. I'll be keeping a close eye I'd like to do a 7MGTE swap.
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Originally Posted by ProjectMcFly
(Post 51735756)
Why the 7M?
Don't those have more HG issues than the 3.0? Though I'm pretty sure I've seen a lot of aftermarket solutions to solve the problem. There's a TRD metal head gasket that I think solves the problem.
Originally Posted by Swimmerboy2112
(Post 51736531)
Really looking forward to this. I'll be keeping a close eye I'd like to do a 7MGTE swap.
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Originally Posted by shaeff
(Post 51736586)
While the motor is out, the OP should pull the head, replace the headgasket, and torque the head bolts to 72ft lbs. The 7M headgasket problem stems from the switch from and asbestos gasket to a composite gasket and never changing the torque value. Original torque value is 52ft lbs. Torque the head to 72 and there will be no issues at all.
Being an NA 7M, I am gonna take my chances if it passes the compression test or leakdown, haven't decided which one to do haha. But as I said in one of my earlier posts, I am gonna crack the bolts and retorque to recommended torque spec for now. Maybe when I replace that clutch, while its down, I'll do that, but for now this needs to remain a budget build, and as such, I specifically bought a good, running engine. This truck is not a d.d., and I will be struck by parania, watching like a hawk for any signs of trouble :hillbill: |
Originally Posted by bigtrucknwheels
(Post 51736781)
Being an NA 7M, I am gonna take my chances if it passes the compression test or leakdown, haven't decided which one to do haha.
But as I said in one of my earlier posts, I am gonna crack the bolts and retorque to recommended torque spec for now. Maybe when I replace that clutch, while its down, I'll do that, but for now this needs to remain a budget build, and as such, I specifically bought a good, running engine. This truck is not a d.d., and I will be struck by parania, watching like a hawk for any signs of trouble :hillbill: Do exactly that, crack them loose, and crank them down to 72ft lbs. You'll be fine. Just make sure you torque them in sequence. Oh yeah, and here are a few links to help you out: TSRM: http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Librar...3/default.aspx Good wiring info: www.supracharged.com |
nice.....when we get the 4runner running, may have ourselves a little destination to come and bother you.
hopefully you get going a weeee bit faster that we have. good to see. |
Originally Posted by shaeff
(Post 51736862)
For what it's worth, you'll probably be fine. The NAs didn't pop headgaskets nearly as much as the turbo cars did.
Do exactly that, crack them loose, and crank them down to 72ft lbs. You'll be fine. Just make sure you torque them in sequence. Oh yeah, and here are a few links to help you out: TSRM: http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Librar...3/default.aspx Good wiring info: www.supracharged.com
Originally Posted by 92 TOY
(Post 51736898)
nice.....when we get the 4runner running, may have ourselves a little destination to come and bother you.
hopefully you get going a weeee bit faster that we have. good to see. |
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