Etravoda's 97 Auto 3.4 Swap into 95/3.0/Auto
 

I finished a 3.4 swap earlier this year and have put around 1500 miles on it. I found a lot of information online and wanted to condense it into a build-up thread for all the other 3.4 swap people. I went with a 97 3.4 a340f transmission and bolted it to a Inchworm "Tacoma Adapter" and gear-driven t-case with chromoly 23 spline input gear.


This hopefully will help the "Auto swappers." I know there is not as much information on Autos and there are many shortcuts that can be taken that many people are unaware of. I did a lot of researched on keeping the 3.0 tranny and talked to "thefatkid" about his luck with it. He shared that he had issues with the 3.0 tranny slipping. I believe you can get the a340h to work if you use a t100 ECU but I didn't want to fiddle with it and I'm glad I went the way I did. My swap probably cost more but I knew what I was doing, I knew that the transmission would work properly, and I now have the stronger gear driven t-case (and the easier expansion for dual cases if that ever comes up)

Here's what it went in:

http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/e...160443_457.jpg


Picked up a 97 4Runner Auto for a donor. Engine has 220k miles on it but compression tested fine and ran great.

http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/e...625_150503.jpg


Engine out and ready to begin preliminary work. When pulling it out we found a broken motor mount (one bolt still in block, another bolt sheared off in block, and the last bolt taking a part of the block with it!)

I had a lot of help from several buddies along the way. We worked on the 3.4 for around a month off and on to replace seals, crank bearings, fix motor mount, spark plugs, etc.

http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/e...5_164118-1.jpg

Good deal, we need all the auto swap info we can get! Are you using stock 340H or the doner's 340f?

Yeah happy to help! I want to share what I found. I went back and edited the first post to add more information regarding the auto.

Stock exhaust (crossover running down passenger side)

Followed this posting on making your own crossover

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f160...r-pipe-138902/

Used the stock crossover and roughly a 3" piece of pipe to make the new driver side crossover. I had an exhaust shop stretch the 3" piece for me just slightly so that it would sleeve over the stock pipe.

http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/e...709_141144.jpg

http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/e...710_175719.jpg

http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/e...711_184735.jpg

I was able to trim about 1"-2" off of either end of the heat shielding and re-use that. My crossover pipe ended up fitting PERFECTLY. I couldn't have asked for a better fit even if I had built it in the truck. My recommendation would be to eyeball down the bellhousing bolt holes "parallel" with the engine. If you shoot to have roughly around a 1/2" gap to where the bellhousing will come out, you should get the crossover pipe in a great position to fit around frame, torsion bars, and bellhousing.


I talked to Scotty over at Addicted Offroad and he ordered parts from Inchworm and Trail-Gear for me. I bought other parts from Amazon and Summit Racing to build a 2.5" mandrel bent exhaust from the "downpipe" to the rear axle

http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/e...812_110422.jpg


http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/e...707_225358.jpg

Replaced crank bearings while I had it on a stand. This was my first engine "internals" experience but based on what I heard from outside inputs, this looks like standard wear. There were no gouges or cuts in the bearings. (Yaaaa 3.4!!)

http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/e...814_153427.jpg

http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/e...708_203150.jpg

Another thing I would HIGHLY recommend is Purple Power. Spray that stuff on everything and power wash it down. I power washed the engine roughly three times before it ended up going in the truck.

Here's what happens when your Subaru buddy comes over to help and has spare intake manifolds sitting around. Rather unique looking :D

http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/e...812_173420.jpg

Tapped and plugged the old dipstick hole

http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/e...814_152230.jpg

As per Elvota's advice, loosen the hard fuel line banjo bolt on the rear of the engine and you can flip it around to be the perfect length. IF a 3.0 recipient, this means NO CUSTOM FUEL HOSES.

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f1...lLine01a-1.jpg

Also remove the hard lined part for the return fuel line while the engine is out. (Something I didn't learn until it was in the truck and still want to fix)

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f1...FuelLine02.jpg

Both pictures from: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f160...85/index3.html


Doing rear main

http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/e...815_213325.jpg




All-in-all I changed:

Timing Belt
Water Pump
Crank Bearings
Spark Plugs (Tested wires and they came out well under spec)
Intake Seals
Rear Main
Valve Cover Gaskets

...and cleaned a lot to make her look nice :D

http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/e...815_200815.jpg

... and started pulling the 3.0!! Had several guys working on this late one night. Thanks to Chris for all the help with vacuum hoses and Ben for help with everything else!

http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/e...816_210215.jpg

Pulled the 3.0 on a nice warm Sat thanks to help from Jared

http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/e...817_142747.jpg

I was able to leave the 3.0 AC compressor still attached to the body and bungee cord it to the side. The compressor bolts right to the 3.4 and only requires changing over the clutch/pulley. As of 12/26/11 I have not gotten the AC wired in the wiring harness.

http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/e...817_185226.jpg

If I may inquire, why did you leave the stock 3.0 vacuum nightmare in there? Using a stock 97 Evap box is 100x cleaner, way less vacuum mess.

Also, what did you do for your heater? I took my heater valve out when I did this swap on my crawler, but I am now swapping another into an 89 and I want it to be super clean looking when I am done.

Most the vacuum junk on the passenger side ended up coming out. I kept the stock VSVs for the 4wd ADD. I put in the 3.4 EVAP Box originally (it barely fit on the back passenger side) but recently changed it back to the 3.0 can.

For the heater valve I just left the stock 3.0 and went through the combination of hoses I had to get them to fit.

gotta make sure that frame breather is hooked up properly

Oh you gotta. She won't run right without it!

Made a custom mount for the 3.0 dipstick tube to run through the motor mount (similar to the 3.0 design) and painted it with a fresh coat of black

http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/e...823_153824.jpg

I purchased the 23 Spline Chromoly input shaft for the t-case from Trail Gear. I pulled the front third of the t-case apart to swap the input shaft over.

Here's the $400 Inchworm Tacoma Adapter. I went with a 0* clocking angle because I didn't want to mess with complex mounts.

http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/e...824_210820.jpg

And assembled

http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/e...825_164950.jpg

3.4!!!

http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/e...827_135815.jpg

http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/e...827_154717.jpg

http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/e...901_225623.jpg

http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/e...901_225648.jpg

Beginning to come together. Make a custom intake bracket that bolts to the MAF and runs down to the fender. Also ran 4ga wire from the fuse box to the driver side and tied it to the alternator. From the alternator I ran another fused 4ga wire to the battery. This provides a heavier gauge wire for the circuit as well as having a good fused location to prevent fires.

I built in the Big 3 upgrade with the engine swap. 4ga wire from battery-body, engine-body, and battery-alternator.

http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/e...904_163815.jpg

The upper radiator hose will remain the same as the 3.0 and after a few trips to Advance Auto Parts with a tape measure I found the ideal hose for the lower. Part# 71765 is the perfect height and only 1" has to be cut off of the end.

http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/e...909_180152.jpg

Ran 2.5" exhaust from the "downpipe" back. I cut the bend to get the best flow that I could.

http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/e...915_194209.jpg

http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/e...915_193831.jpg

http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/e...915_193920.jpg

I ran the exhaust straight back into a Magnaflow Cat and a Thrush Welded muffler. The exhaust dumps right before the axle. Eventually I want to buy a few more mandrel bent pieces and make an axle over to shoot out the side behind the tire.

http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/e...924_114014.jpg

And the wiring adapter... Something I would like to elaborate on more.

http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/e...918_020601.jpg


And its done!!

http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/e...923_184236.jpg

looks good!

Cool, good work. We are in similar spots in our builds. I have to purchase the adapter still. Going to get my gear case Sunday. How did the adapter install go? Pretty easy? Also, you going to body lift, or cut hood? Also PM sent.

Well nm, you did a big update! You are further along than I thought when I replied. Awesome!

Haha yep my build is done, just going back for the write-up now.

Adapter install was very easy. If you follow Inchworm's directions step-by-step it is very easy.

One thing I still need to cover is the body lift. I cut roughly 6" of bracing out of the hood and did a 1/2" body lift. The hood closes beautifully with no rubbing.

need help on wiring ecm on 95 4runner with 3.4 swap?

Update on the swap: Only thing not functioning correctly is the cruise control. I have to look into this more later on when time allows. (More important things happening now such as bumper builds)

i need the help or help on where to find a way to make my own wiring harness. Its a 95 4runner sr5 4x4 with a 09/98 5vz-fe and auto transmission 4x4,

Start reading around on the boards here to get an idea on the wiring. There are a lot of useful documents to get you started. Make sure you track down all of the plugs you have on both sides and start following numbers/pins.

Awesome work! i have an automatic 3.0 and planning on swapping a 3.4l. I appreciate your documentation and write-up, i am a non-mechanic trying to learn all i can to do this myself

Thanks. Hopefully I've documented a fair amount of the swap for you. Let me know if you have any questions. (I have planned to add more to this thread and start a build thread soon).


3.4 has been running for close to 2 years now with zero issues. I finished the battery tray/mount several weeks ago.

Awesome and thank you for your offer. I am accumulating parts and so far have found a 1996 4runner partout...i was able to get the motor with high mileage 230k (which is what i have on my 91) for 400 with all the donor parts listed from ORS. My rationale is that if i can get another 100k miles i will be a happy camper.

Thanks again bro, you have inspired me

Haha yes sir. One thing to keep in mind for the future is that the 96 computer won't adapt to the supercharger if you ever decide to go that route. Even when your 3.4 does go, you'll already have all the custom work done and will just have to swap in a working engine. You got a bunch of ORS swap stuff then?

I havent placed the order yet. I am waiting for my 1997 t100 ecu from ebay (so i can use my 3.0 transmission) so i can give ORS the proper numbers and such. Originally my concern was that if the engine goes out i would have to go through the conversion process again, but it is good to know that all i would need to do is throw in a new a 3.4.

I havent thought about the supercharger, but thanks for the tip. Perhaps in future i will find a newer 3.4 and slap the supercharger on it.

Man ive learned so much from this site in the last 3 weeks its ridiculous.

If you are doing the 97 T100 ECU I believe the SC would work right. Good luck on trying to get the 3.0 transmission to work. I know a number of people on here have gotten it to work with the T100 ECU but for a number of reasons I decided against it. Keep updating here to let us know your progress and success with it. Do you plan on doing the wiring yourself? I've contemplated doing a few harnesses for others

Thank you bro!

I was planning on outsourcing the wiring to ORS. I am a complete noob to mechanics and off-roading in general. Are you from CA?

Nope Colorado man myself. Its amazing how much you'll learn in a short period of time by getting your hands dirty.

Haha most def

3.4 Auto Swap
 

I just wanted to bring this thread back to life for a moment.

I'm about to start my own 3.4L auto swap with the new A340f + gear-driven Transfer case, and have nearly every donor and conversion part accumulated. Including a brand new Supercharger!! Yaay!

I'm a newbie to engine conversions, but that being said I think my natural tendency to being ultra meticulous and detail focused is going to pay off. I hope...

Newest hurdle I'm running into this week:

For those of you who decided to swap in the newer A340f with the gear driven case, how did you guys mount your new transmission and transfer case?

It just occurred to me this morning that the new transmission and T-case do not have the same bolt mounting patterns. I'm considering buying a custom cross-member from Front Range Offroad, but I'm not sure that even that will work yet. I'm planning on leaving the IFS system in tack, and I've heard that you need to be careful about the offroad specific crossmembers having enough clearance for the torsion bars (since most are designed for SAS trucks). In the future I will likely install a Total Chaos kit, but for now I'm focused on the power plant...

Other question:

How did it go cutting holes in the floor boards for the top-shift transfer case stick? I installed a twin stick top-shift conversion on my T-case, and have no idea how I'm going to cut the proper sized and placed holes in the floor board. I guess we'll find out when we get there!!

Any advise on these points would be highly appreciated! Most of the other steps I have pretty well in my eyeballs... I freaking can't wait to get this project done and out shredding!!

Cheers guys!

Read my swap thread.

Thanks!! Your thread is super helpful.

I think I'm going to buy the Bud-Built crossmember. It seems to bolt right up for my application.

I can't tell if you're being sarcastic or not (I'm hoping for sarcasm).

He did the same transmission + adapter + gear drive transfer case as you're looking to do, he's simply suggesting that you read through his swap thread for the relevant information you need; the link is in his signature.

If you don't want to look that far into it, he mentions how he adapted his 3.0 cross member to the newer transmission here: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f160...l#post51877625

Then later goes on to show the installation of the adapter plate and transfer case towards the end of his thread.

Personally, I have my doubts about a the bud built x-member bolting right up, only because you have a transmission, possibly with different mounting points, that wasn't an option with your original truck, and I wouldn't anticipate them building x-members for all combinations of transmissions and trucks.