Stupid move while working on my swap. Toyota Techs, PLEASE HELP!
 

2001 3.4L from Tacoma


Had engine on stand flipped over, oil pan removed so as to switch the pickup tubes.
Well, instead of flipping it back over and putting the nuts on so they would not fall into the internals of the engine I chose to try the, "Live and learn method" intead.
So we flipped the engine over hoping it would just fall right out. We listened for any noise of it clanking around but heard nothing, and no nut on the shop floor.
Next, we spent about 2 hours with magnets and flashlights trying to locate it with no luck.

Any suggestions on what I should try next? Hopefully some ideas before tearing down the whole thing..? Maybe flush quarts of oil through it and hope to hear it fall to the pan?

Im open for any suggestions.

oh, and everyone says, "get it out, not worth the chance." I know that! My question is simplest method of removal? if there is one at all..?

bump..?

So I'm a little confused as to what the problem is exactly. You dropped one of the bolts for the pickup tube into the motor while upside down? And now can't find it?

I guess I'm confused because it sounded like you have the pan back on now?

no pan is still off, just on with a couple of bolts until I figure out where to start pulling it apart from. the nut disappeared. i swear. haha

im just as confused.
I am going to Pismo for the weekend but will be back at it again on Monday.

Get a video scope and look around they work wonders

is there oil keeping it like inside a piston? I mean there really isnt a lot of places to go. Its just an engine. up inside a piston, it could have gone into one of the big oil journals coming from the heads, so if its still upside down, maybe pull the valve covers and see if its resting in there? Good luck, that sucks....

Foot long piece of 2x4. Smack the crap out of the block in various places by using a hammer on the 2x4. Be careful not to slip.

SR5: That was my next plan. buddy offered his to me just the other day.
hamish: the oil journals is where I am afraid it went...
UKrunner: I'll definitly give it a shot! wish I had thought of that sooner.

Thanks to everyone for the input, let ya know how it goes tomorrow.

The other thing is are you asbsolutely 100% sure it went into the motor? I did something similar on my GN last summer where I could swear that I dropped a washer into the intake valley. I looked for it forever and finally gave up. When I pulled the car out later, there it was sitting on the ground. It must have bounced under the car and wedged in next to one of the front tires. It was a relief that I found it and didn't have to worry about where it was, but also destoyed my belief structure in that I could swear I sawand heard it go into the valley.

Just throwing it out there.

Absolutely positive. I even thought that was possible and checked the shop floor thouroughly to find nothing. I really have a feeling it fell into the heads... Ill be out there today after 6pm and try a few of the recomendations. *fingers crossed*

Another suggestion that has worked for me in the past.

Shop vac!

Keep em coming! I will try any and all!

UKrunner: thank again!

Will my 94 Runner w/ 3.4L swap pass bar...
 

To all those who have been to the CA BAR referee with their swaps...

So I got a s/c for my 3.4L swap. Will I need to go to the referee before bolting it on to avoid a failure?

Thanks :)

the superchargers were a factory/dealer option so there shoulden't be any problem, they are mostly anal about emission components I.e E-vap ,exhaust and the cats, and how they must remain in there stock location.

Thanks for the input. You know if it matters weather cat is from the 94 or the 01?

Anyone out there that has actually passed BAR w/ the supercharger/swap?

Um, cal BAR is something every lawyer has to become a member to in order to represent a client in the state of California.

However, CARB is the California air/resources board that controls smog laws and junk. Maybe that's what you were referring to.

Tell your 4Runner I said "good luck" passing the bar exams. Heard those are hell.


:dj:

Youre, input wasn't needed, but I guess you always have to expect 1 smart a$$ remark.
BTW
I believe CARB is the board that regulates the laws in which the referees follow, either way you knew what I meant.

For everyone else who matters...
supercharger/swaps that have gotten a sticker?!

The TRD SC is CARB legal in California, so it won't matter whether you install it before or after your visit to the ref. If you think it will draw too much attention to your swap, install it after.

And you are correct in your first post, refs work under the BAR program (Bureau of Automotive Repair), which works under contract by the state.

Thanks!

I would just add that if there is a referee at C.O.S., I would go there rather than the guy n Fresno. He is way too "good" at his job and is giving me fits at this point.

I'll keep that in mind.

Cat will have to be for what is called for for your donor motor, not the vehicle it is going into. It is part of the emissions for that donor so has to be the proper one.

Just out of curiosity what exactly is the procedure for going to regular inspection in CA? I am assuming that they actually check every vehicle to make sure it has the original engine and smog equipment? I was just curious if it was possible to do a swap and just drive it through like it was the original motor?

It seems so unlikely that a government run organization would have people that are actually trained to recognize a swapped motor.

Don't want to highjack your thread, but I keep reading about the dreaded BAR ref and was curious what was the procedure, etc.

Also, what about if you transferred a swapped vehicle into CA from another state, does it have to go through this same procedure?

The swap must be a newer engine from a newer vehicle. So... my 94 4runner must have a 94 or newer engine. Cant put 87 into a 94. Wont pass.
The ref does a visual inspection to make sure all the equipment from the donor has been used.

CA's smog laws are super strict. Your vehicle would have to have the required smog equip, cat, etc. and the DMV will want lots of $ to register it here.

Smog shops look at the EVERYTHING. They know what engine goes in what car. Theres a sticker under your hood. They have to make sure it matches. The sticker from the ref is the sticker that tells the smog shop its all good!

Hope that helps a lil bit.

oh and smogs are required every year or two when you pay your registration, its a real PIA!

Ok, so the regular SMOG shop or inspection actually checks for originality in every vehicle it inspects. Now I get it. Here in Jersey your lucky if the inspection station agent can drive stick, nevertheless knows what engine came in a '88 and how to identify it and it's emissions equipment.

You guys might have the weather out there, but it's gotta suck for classic car guys.

You got it. Weather is awesome most of the time. As far as smog for classics. pre 74 are exempt. Lucky for me or my 68 galaxie would be on non op. haha

After this swap sitting for almost a year Im ready to finish it with some help...?
 

So I started this swap about a year ago and due to my schedule and a few other factors just have not had the time or money! (I rebuilt the 302 in my '68 Ford Galaxie instead!#
But now to this project because I am ready for the power of this 3.4L and SC to bring my 4Runner back to life!
First here is a list of what I did before it sat for so long:
My rig: 1994 4Runner #3.0 Auto swapped to manual#
Donor: 2001 Tacoma #3.4 w/ manual 4x4 ecu#
-3.0 was gutted and half parts sold some still available!
-Engine bay degreased and sprayed w/ undercoating #looked great before it sat w/ the hood off in a field for 6 months )
-Crossover built for driverside drop
-Dipstick hole has been drilled and union/tube in place
-Oil pan/pickup tube swapped
-Engine/Transmission installed
I am now working on hose/vacuum/fuel/coolant routing and then those very few wires it should take to start this thing!
Here is a picture of how it sits now.
http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q...t/IMAG0651.jpg

I have the coolant lines figure out for the most part. I know drivers side on motor goes to drivers side on firewall and same for passenger. Since I am deleteing the rear heater I have chosen to either do away with the T fittings or make them into burpers as I have read on other threads.
So my questions is in regards to where these plugs go...
1) 2 wires w/ connectors on the passenger side:
one comes from under the fuse box bundle of wires, and the other comes from the harness running along the upper radiator support. They are both 2 wires each with a connector
UPDATE: The one from the upp radiator support is for the wiper fluid container! DOH! Still looking for the other one.

http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q...t/IMAG0631.jpg
2) 2 more wires the come out on the passenger side of the engine, just above the timing cover. They are 1 wire each with a connector.

http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q...t/IMAG0625.jpg

Seeing as how they fall in the same place, I wouldnt be suprised if they are somehow related..?


Also There is a single wire coming from the firewall and a single wire from the rear of the engine that Im guessing are related to the heater... sensor? not sure... here are a couple pictures..

http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q...t/IMAG0636.jpg
and from the engine...
http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q...t/IMAG0638.jpg

I am also a little confused over this hose...?
http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q...t/IMAG0635.jpg

And the routing on these items... I noticed the small hose below the SC in other rigs is routed to the plenum... so this means I do what with it?
Also the boost port routing.. anyone have a diagram by chance?
http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q...t/IMAG0648.jpg


This comes from the back of the head and goes to what...?

http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q...t/IMAG0641.jpg

I have read many of your threads and I appreciate all the help you can give and with it I hope to be driving the beast soon!
Thanks again!

Also this round plug which sits on the passenger fender.. ???

UPDATE: This is... DUH! My cruise control used to be here and now is not!

http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q...t/IMAG0622.jpg

thx whoever merged my threads... i forgot i had one started :oops:

Now... any ideas on some of these issues? :dunno:

so... after about a years worth of procrastination and a few days of good hard work... ITS ALIVE!!! I finally have my 3.4 Swapped and Supercharged 94 4Runner! Still need to weld in the exhaust and my tach is not working for some reason. Also it started dumping out oil so had to kill it... appears the oring to the oil cooler was shredded! So Im headed to grab another and more oil! Other than that it sounds awesome! I have video I'll upload shortly!

SO STOKED and I havnt even driven it yet! lol

Awesome! I am jealous of the SC.

On the tach, really not a whole lot it could be I dont think.

Either the black wire isn't connected properly in the kick panel, the tach mod is not done or done incorrectly, or the tach is bad. I would assume that since it run the ignitor is working properly.

Good luck

Heres the video...

First start of 3.4 SC

Had a hard time starting it due to a bad ground, fixed that and it fires right up everytime now! Also after I stopped the video I looked on the ground and the entire flood was covered in oil! Oil cooler gasket was shredded. Replaced it and NO leaks! Even got to drive it down the street and back! 4WD works as well.

I think I have have not plugged the gauges in properly and that might be the issue with the tach because I also notice neither does my water temp gauge, but battery, fuel and oil pressure work... maybe tach and water temp are on the same plug? I guess ill know when I tear it apart.

1 other thing I noticed.. I can start the truck without the clutch pedal being pressed in... any ideas on why that would be?

I used the harness from Justin at Toyonlyswaps... Maybe Ill give him a ring and ask his opinion.

If your truck started as being an auto, there is no circuit wired for the NSS. You would have to install one and wire it to interrupt the starter feed wire. Should be fairly easy.

One the gauges, the last one I did the speedo was not working after it was working fine. The plug into the cluster was loose. Cleaned it up, reconnected it and it was good.

Now that I think of it the speedo wasnt working either... Ill have to tear it down tomorrow when I get time. Classes started today at Fresno City, headed that way now as a matter a fact!

So i ripped the dash apart, checked all the plugs to the gauges. Everything securely plugged in and not working... I even tried swapping clusters as I have a spare I got that was closer to my new mileage w/ the 3.4L.

The lights to the cluster works as well as the fuel, oil pressure, and volts... but speedo, tach and water temp gauges are not working...

Any ideas on where this could have gone wrong?
I purchased the wiring harness from Toyonlyswaps... maybe they made a minor mistake..? I plan to call tomorrow when they are open but was hoping to get some ideas here first.

Ill take a picture of the tach mod and post it... but I followed your write up! :wedgie:

Did you plug in the single wire connector at the back of the motor that is the coolant temp sensor for the gauge?