Turbocharging A Stock 22re (BUILD)
 

A little over half a year ago I made a post asking about the viability of turbocharging a stock 22re (linked below) and now I have finally got around to making it happen.

My plan is to put a td05-12b turbocharger on the stock 22re engine, with the AFM positioned in front of the turbo intake, so the air will be properly metered.

I plan to run low boost so the compression should be find, and the fuel should keep up with the low boost.

Here is some background on the engine:
160k miles (3k after full rebuild)
New head, valves, cam, pistons, rings, bearings, water pump, oil pump, timing cover, timing components, fuel pump, thermostat, radiator, etc.
Engine and fuel management is all stock, and it has no knock detector since it's a 94 2wd pickup.


Here is mock up of the turbo approximately where it will be in the engine bay.

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turbo position mockup


I made the exhaust flange by tracing the exhaust ports onto a piece of 3/8 steel plate, which I then drilled out on a milling/drilling machine, after that I cut the extra plate off of the flange, and then milled out the middle to give clearance for the spark plug wires.

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...74c299f1ae.jpg
Drilling exhaust ports with hole saw in mill.


Next I sketched up a few possible manifold designs, then proceeded to cut out some angled pieces of 1-1/4" steel pipe to make 90* elbows, along with some straight angled pieces for the inner ports.

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Test fitting manifold pipe sections together.


After some measuring, marking, and careful angle grinding, I tack welded most of the manifold pieces together. Then I cut down a turbo adapter that I had previously made for a different project, leaving just the flange and a bit of pipe, then I ground it to fit the main manifold pipe. Next I marked out on the manifold where the turbo flange would go and cut it out with a hole saw, and ground it to fit with a carbide burr, on a die grinder.

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Turbo manifold parts layed out and tacked.


I then added a 1/8" npt pipe fitting just before the turbo flange for an EGT probe. After that I welded up the manifold pipes.

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Turbo manifold pipes welded.


Then I welded the manifold to the flange and use the carbide burr to grind off any slight misalignments of pipe sections.

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The turbo bolted up to the manifold.

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For oil supply to the turbo, I bought an adapter to go from the 1/8 BSP oil tap under the passenger engine mount to 1/8 npt where I will use a TOC hose to feed oil to the turbo. For oil drain I will use a tapered punch to make a hole in the oil pan, then tap it for 3/8 npt thread and use a 5/8" silicone hose for drain.

The turbo water supply will be chained in after the IACV's water feed before being returned back to the port over the thermostat.

link to previous thread: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...k-22re-290030/

I'm no expert but have to ask why you placed the turbo closer to one side and not center it in the manifold. Wouldn't you want equal length runners?

How do you plan to tune this guy?

I have the turbo flange off centered, so that the turbo itself will be centered over the exhaust manifold, allowing clearance for the power steering pump. Equal length runners is not important for my application, just look at the stock 22rte manifold, it has the turbo mount even farther back.

For tuning i'm just going to go for low boost, and i'll let the stock ECU do its thing, my AFM's spring has lost tension over the years causing it to run rich, so I'm not too worried about running lean with low boost.

you will be waaaaaaaaaaaaaaay better off running megasquirt. The factory ecu will fall on its face. The factory ecu is barely enough to run the NA motor.

I definitely agree the stock ecu is very minimalistic. This has been a budget build, and I've seen it done with the stock ecu with low boost before. If problems arise I look into getting a megasquirt.

IIRC the DIY PNP megasquirt for the 22re is $799 little pricey. I don't wanna end up spending more than the truck is worth in the end.

Would it be possible to take a 2rz ecu wire up the necessities then tune it to fit the 22re?

Or possibly use a 22rte ecu and vafm and try to mimic the rte on a non rte

Be easier to setup a megasquirt

Test fitted the manifold to the engine today.


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I installed the oil drain by punching a hole in the oil pan and tapping it for 3/8" npt pipe thread. I covered the threads with RTV silicone sealant then tightened it up, it should have a nice seal.
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...5aa6969f21.jpg
oil drain hose barb installed into pan

The oil feed was installed into the unused plugged oil gallery port located under the passenger side engine mount. To do this I ordered a 1/8-28 BSP to 1/8-27 NPT adapter which a hose barb was threaded into. Then a 5/16" TOC hose supplies the oil to the turbo.
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...1c2ce26066.jpg
To make room for the turbo downpipe I cut the end off of the hard line for heater core return, and clamped a heater hose on the remaining pipe.

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...2fb29e7e2b.jpg
Heater core return relocation.


All of the hoses are now routed to the turbo.
Next I will work on the wastegate, intake, and exhaust.

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Looks Great! I will be watching this....your project looks a lot like what I did to my 97 toyota with a 2rz a few years back. I ran a t3 with 7lbs boost on the stock ecu. It ran great! You will not regret what you are doing....Keep up the good work!

Thanks for the complement!



I figured up the wastegate linkages, I had to fab up a new BOV block off plate that included a spot to mount the waste gate, then I added a spring below the waste gate to reduce the max boost to a reasonable amount for this engine, and it is easily adjustable.


I also wrapped the turbo manifold in fiberglass insulation to help keep bay temps down without a heat shield. My intake and exhaust pipes came in today, just waiting on gaskets and some intake couplers to come in the mail.
I plan to finish by the end of the weekend, and I will upload a youtube video of the final product!

I estimated the final total cost of all the parts, for adding this turbo will be under $250...Not bad at all. When I finish I will post a parts/cost list.
Attachment 104020

Attachment 104021

Over the weekend I welded up the intake pipes, and the turbo downpipe. I cut out gaskets, wired an EGT gauge and all those little things. Tonight I bolted up the turbo, and the downpipe, fitted together the intake plumbing, and plumbed oil and water to the turbo.

I was able to do a test drive (no muffler) and the there is alot of turbo noise :D
Tomorrow I will finish the exhaust, install the o2 sensor, and upload a youtube video of it all.

Below are pictures of it all.

Just curious, why no intercooler?

Considering no way to tune the intercooler would help a little i think.

Did you get an afm gauge?

An intercooler will always help keep things cooler....but in low boost applications its not a necessity. Plus they can be a pain in the nuts to pipe on these crowded trucks. I ran my truck at 7psi and had no problem. I did do meth injection after awhile....Im guessing that cooled things down a bit.

I've been following this build and I'm very curious to see the outcome. If everything works as you expect, do you think you might revisit the design (refine it)? For example, by having custom bent pipes made for the plumbing? I applaud you on your effort and wish you luck.

You are making us wait! The anticipation is killing me!

Sorry for the wait, I've been quite busy.

I used thick paper exhaust header gasket between the manifold and the turbo, it was rated for only 1200F so the thin sides blew out within the first mile of driving. With the gaping holes in the exhaust before the turbo it would still spool to 4 PSI at around 4k and up at 3/4 throttle and up. Tomorrow I will pull everything apart, machine both the manifold flange and the turbo housing flange flat, then use a thin copper gasket with grease on it. (The grease should coke and help further seal the surfaces.)

I could really feel the boost when it kicks in, so I am excited to see the performance on the lower end once half the exhaust is no longer blowing out before the turbo.

The plumbing in the engine bay is pretty tight as is, so it would be a huge pain to add an intercooler, and I don't think much would be gained with one either with

pain to add an intercooler, and I don't think much would be gained either with less than 6 psi of boost.

I have been thinking about adding methanol injection using a hobbs switch at 5 psi and up, where does one get methanol for cheap? Are you just using plain methanol/water washer fluid?

Also after driving there is a lot of vapor/smoke coming out of the crank breather, I did disconnect the PCV since I don't trust the checkvalve to keep my boost in. Is that normal?

I'll be sure to post a youtube video once I get the blown exhaust gasket fixed.

Attached are pics of the blown gasket, the boost gauge, and my temporary exhaust coupling fix 0_o

Don't they make a manifold gasket for your turbo? I know you fabricated the stuff yourself but the turbo side should still match.

As far as pcv, honda guys use a catch can for the increased blow by

What was your afr while driving?

"Don't they make a manifold gasket for your turbo? I know you fabricated the stuff yourself but the turbo side should still match."
Well, it is an odd turbo flange, I already checked it is very close to one of the standard T-x turbo flanges but the bolt holes are off. I think I may have found one but it was about $80

I surfaced my manifold flange which was badly warped from welding, and cut out a thin copper gasket. I coated both sides with copper anti-seize so the copper will help fill in voids, and the grease in it will coke and seal farther. The downpipe currently had no gasket, just using the flare to seal.


It sounds really nice with the turbo, I can really feel the boost, it spools in at 2k rpm, maxing out at 4 psi. The wastegate is really loose, I need to tighten it up. It should reduce creep, and I'll set it up to 5 psi.


When going up the hills on the main road i take at 45-50 mph I no longer have to downshift to 3rd gear to prevent lugging. I can stay in 5th and without moving the pedal, I can hear the turbo spool up on the hill and it goes right up the hill with no lugging. It does not even register on my gauge, just enough to overcome the terrible VE.



"As far as pcv, honda guys use a catch can for the increased blow by"
Catch can for blowby? Could you elaborate please?



"What was your afr while driving?" From the smell of the exhaust it's about rich and a half, stock o2 sensor is narrow band and is probably clogged with burnt coolant from the previous warped head and blown HG.




I felt the intake pipes after a drive and it was about 160*F probably mostly heat absorbed by the toast engine bay. I will probably get an air to water intercooler to cool the air as space is very limited in the engine bay.
If I had not paid $120 for a new IACV I would delete it, as it is pumping 180* water right into the intake for the air to absorb. Just use an arduino to monitor temps and turn on a idle up solenoid when temps are low.

I set the timing back to about 2* BTDC and with the stock ECU and fuel I have had no problems at all. No detonation at all. Eventually I plan to also add methanol/water injection that will spray at 5 psi and over.

http://oilcatchcan.com

This is the general purpose of having one.

It touches on having a check valve for turbo charged vehicles.

I'll also add an engine oil cooler, the radiator I have has a built in cooler in the bottom, so I'll use an oil filter sandwich plate to run oil over to it. The hose barbs for the cooler have an ID of maybe 3/16 or 1/4 inch, is that too small to carry the oil capacity the motor needs?

This in mine, not running yet, have a Emtron ecu to wire in.

42pph bosch 4's
GM LS cnp
possible meth injection
crank trigger to go on, low voltage to dizzy for cam signal
oil catch can with sealed blow off
7.5:1 block
KKK audi turbo

You can get a plug in MS2, forget struggling with the AFM.

Is your down pipe also really close to one of the brake lines? Mine's within 3/4 inch from the brake line, I wrapped the pipe extra to shield the brake line from the heat.


I ordered a new Denso o2 sensor to combat the rich running.
This week I will tackle the timing cover leak, it'll be a load of fun.

Turbo 22re cheap easy fuel fix
 

i am interested in seeing what you did with fuel? I have the same setup as you are using pretty much. Homemade manifold, t3/t4 60mm, arp studs, king mains, rods, thrust washers, catch can for my pcv vacuum, boost gauge, aem af gauge with wideband. I don’t want to spend money on ecu so bigger injectors? Ideas
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Pretty sure I see a plastic PCV valve in that last picture.. Go to the Toyota dealer and get a good one that actually seals properly.

this obviously wasn’t for me

No it was for you, just not an answer to your question..

If you go to a "part store" and ask for a PCV valve for a 22ret, then ask them for the one to a 22re they will give you the exact same part.

If you do this at a Toyota dealership parts counter you will receive two different parts. Both of which are manufactured to much better quality standards. (IE, they actually close off the air flow from the intake)..

To answer your question.. To get more fuel (assuming your guage is telling you you are running out of fuel, lean AFR) your options are.. Bigger injectors, more fuel pressure, a tunable computer, or some combination of those.

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...5105cada7d.jpg
Toyota on top.
Generic "part store" on bottom.

Starting my own..
 

Hey ya'll! Found this old thread the same day I found a turbo for cheap on craigslist (with a wastegate!!!). My main question thus far is how do you deal with exhaust after it's gone through the turbo? Do you just weld up a pipe that drops from the turbo to the downpipe? Also, how does one control how much boost a turbo makes? I've only ever tuned NA cars, this is all new and wonderful to me.

Just came across this post again after so long. Did replace that pcv and setup is still running great after a couple years. Did get 25% bigger injectors and I am in the process of getting more fuel at it currently. 255 lph, adjustable fpr. Still running stock fuel management and I wheel my truck 10-15 times each summer. Just updating post👍🏻