that makes sense. how much was that ect sensor? any way to test it with a meter first?

I don't know how much they are new. I happened to have a spare one from another motor around. What you can do to find out if it's the culprit is, like the TPS, unhook it and see if it makes a difference running. It should run a little better. Also, if you pull the sensor and it's all rusty and green, clean it up real good and see if that makes an improvement. If so, in any case, replace it.

Ok, Ill start checking for fuel cloggs. Also, Iv had others tell me that the TPS could be out of adjustment, could that cause all this, Stumbling and dying?
Will it be ok to drive it for a couple more days?

Did you test it yet...the TPS? Like RDharper suggested? Like he said, if you unplug it and it changes nothing, then it has nothing to do with adjustment. If you've never screwed with it and no one else has, it should be still at factory setting. In which case, if the TPS is the problem, as deduced by the test, then it's probably just bad. But, you can test that as well with a volt/ohm meter. Lots of threads on that.

It might be fine to drive...just depends on what it is.

the in-tank fuel strainer is much finer screened than the main inline filter. it is a PITA though to change, involves dropping the tank and pulling the pump.
has the truck been driven in deep water or had lots of water in the pass floorboard? if so or even if not i would pull your ecu. take the cover screws off of both sides and inspect it for corrosion. that could be your problem.
see if this link helps it was the problem my friends truck had.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...driving-83431/

Where is this info at? What are the terminal numbers? I coundn't find it on the info you posted.

Any updates on your problem yet??? Well let us know what happened to it.

To check if that EGR is the problem just remove the EGR hose from the intake and plug the place where it went in. If the EGR valve is the problem then it should at least run more normally without emissions going into the intake at all.

I have a similar problem...
 

I have an 88 SR5 with a 22RE. Had to do an engine swap due to really bad head gasket and almost 200K on the original. Problem existed before the swap. The engine idles smooth, but cuts out and nearlly dies as you open the throttle. Tried swapping parts one at a time from another running 88. MAF, Igniter and coil, Distributor, ECU. Installed new fuel pump and nothing changed. Installed new injectors and thought the problem went away briefly, but it remains and still boggles my mind. Please help.

Can this cause the 22RE not to rev? Is there anyway the ECU could get a false signal that the brake is being pushed and cut off the fuel?

My truck (22RE 1988 SR5 4X4 ) idles smooth, but will not rev if you open the throttle. Have checked fuel pressure, ruled out all major EFI components except TB and upper intake, and distrib and Coil/igniter, replaced pump and injectors (thought problem went away at this point, then came back). The engine will rev higher than 850 or 900 if I only crack the throttle slightly while not under load.

will a loose TPS make my truck die under load

fuel pump??

check the tubing between the throttle body and air flow meter / air filter housing for any cracks.

what do you mean by die under load? like taking off from a stop type load, or you're alread moving then floor it and it dies?

I found the damn culprit tonight! If you have an '87 or '88, then you probably have a Banjo bolt on your fuel rail with a Fuel Damper (pulse suppressor) on it. My truck was dying during acceleration because the bolt I have is made different than my friends and the copper crush washer was sealing off the passage from the fitting into the bolt - thus stopping the flow of fuel. For now we put it on without a washer. The local Toy dealer says the bolt is $129.00.
We took pictures and hope this may help others. Mine is on the left. His had a square shaft and this keeps the washer from closing off the opening.
http://photos-194.ll.facebook.com/ph...73700_6197.jpg

hate to throw up a old ass thread. but the problems are back again damnit. new filter,egr,tested the fuel pump,tps it drives and goes but wont rev when i smash the gas it's like a slowly get there thing.

would the charcoal canister-vapor canistor have anything to do with slow accel ? it's the only thing i haven't changed

What have you done to check that expensive little black box called the AFM? They are long lived, but fail with slowly more irritating symptoms. In my case the symptoms were balking, hesitation under acceleration, which is not what you are describing.

However, it does sound like an air-fuel mixture problem. Or fuel limitation. Or a timing problem.

Well, that didn't help.

But to answer your question, can't see how the charcoal box can affect acceleration.

pluged in another one and it ran the same. i know this will sound crazy but every since i let a shop install a cat my truck has been running like crap.( fake cat)