Stumbling/Hesitation during acceleration
 

I just cant figure it out. Cant find an air leak, I have good compression, good plug, good wire, new K&N filter...whats the deal. It happened very suddenly, from perfect to crap in one second. And it dies at idle, even if im going 65, if I let off the gas and put in neutral it dies.

what else would cause this??

Take a real close look at the air intake, the bellows can crack deep inside and be hard to see at first. Maybe even remove the section of plastic intake and look underneath, all around. Flex the tube to open gaps.

Thanks, Ill just keep checking for a leak. Are there any leaks that would be harder to see? Also, Where is the long hose at the bottom of the charcoal canister supposed to go.

check the o2 sensor make sure the connector is tight

I took mine to the dealership and they said i had the wrong plugs(they were autozones), the air intake hose cracked in the bellows, my fuel pressure regulator was bad, my lower metal intake plenum was cracked, and my injectors installed incorrectly. Spend a bit to go through the list but bound to find the reason.

Any idea what that means? Seems to me that anything but a correct installation of the fuel injectors would mean a no-run situation.

I'll check the o2 sensor tomorrow. This problem is just throwing me in circles. Im actually starting to think that it is just a clogged injector, but then I dont think that would cause it to die at idle. Somebody out there has to know. What else can I check?

long hose is supposed to be routed into the frame. But it basically does nothing not attached to anything

Get a can of starting fluid spray and spray around all your air tubes, if there is a leak, you will see a difference when the spray hits the leak. I found one this way in my rig. Never would of found it without doing this.

Have you replaced the distributor cap?, it could have a crack in it some where.

Brilliant, I didnt think of spraying starter fluid on the hoses. It will just rev higher if the leak sucks it in right? Can I use a can of Ether?

Distributer is new.

i would stick with carb cleaner and yes it will rev up a little if there a leak

Does it matter that I don't have carb? Aside from a vacuum leak, what would cause the engine to die at idle AND stumble and hesitate during acceleration?

Just an idea.....there is a "idle solenoid" on the carburetor, if it's not working, the engine will not idle.....it's located on the upper part of the carb, toward the firewall and has 2 wires, check it, it could be the problem.

No Im fuel injected

I had two clogged injectors, and the engine would run, idle, accelerate, but I would act like it was missing. I've had the O2 sensor go out, but it turns on the check engine light. So it's probably *not* the injectors or O2 sensor. Test the vacuum and fuel pressure, check the computer for any codes. Maybe it's as simple as the throttlebody clogged with gunk?

Thottle body idle speed regulator airway restricted/obstructed, use the SEAFOAM, do a search on this site, very usefull stuff. If that don't work, probably EGR stuck open. Would let hot exhaust air in mix at idle, not good, cause your problem.

Don't know if this helps, but I'm getting a clicking sound coming from the ECU right before the engine dies. And sometimes it will click without the engine dying. Any thoughts on that?

Help! this is killing me.

how many miles....
 

sounds like a classic clogged fuel filter to me.

Have you checked your TPS, and AFM? Either can cause symptoms like that.
Symptoms are only at idle? Pull your TPS connector and see if it performs the same. If so, its not the TPS. You will throw a code, but if the TPS is not working, you should see the symptoms go away while disconnected.

To check the AFM takes a bit more work.

How is acceleration after the initial hesitation?

How is acceleration above 3k?

fuel filter is pretty new.

It will only die at ide, but the stumbling/hesitating during acceleration is constant.
Acceleration really does not improve, its the same all the way up to 70, BAD.
So disconnect the TPS and check for change?

Correct. If the symptoms are the same, problem is not the TPS. Ignore the code for the check. I've not seem a TPS fail that way, but its an easy check. For the AFM, follow the directions in the FSM. Its an expensive part, so hopefully that is not the problem. They do go bad, but apparently at fairly high mileage, based on my experience.

Check for vacuum line leaks, I got two hoses crossed once ,ran like your talkin'. To rule out EGR suck on the hose at the top while at idle, it should bog down,even more , but I'm tellin' ya if it's even a little open(sticking) it'll be difficult or IMPOSSIBLE to even keep it idling. Don't stress out man, we're here for ya:D

The clicking at the ecu sounds like a low voltage problem.

Low voltage where? Could that be related to the bad acceleration and dying at idle?

Where is the AFM on the 22re? Is it also known as an air flow sensor?

The black box with the connector on it, just after the air intake.

Sounds like the problem I had not too long ago. Do you have an FSM? If not lemme look at mine and get back to you. Its late and I'm afraid of typing the wrong thing and cuase you more grief.

yeah I have a factory service manual, and a Haynes, and a couple of friends willing to stand there and drink beer and watch me get pissed off.
Why, you know something good?

How's the timing? How's the fuel filter? How's the TPS? ECT?
Is this only occuring once when it reaches operating temp.

Here was the thread I had not too long ago.

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116/stumbling-hesitating-when-reaches-operating-temp-egr-valve-103517/

stumbling occurs right at start up and doesnt quit. Dont know condition of TPS, unplugged it but didnt feel any change.

Do you know the last time you replaced the fuel filter? I've heard of numerous people having the same problem at idling shortly after startup.

I probably changed it 5-10,000 mile ago. Would that cause an immediate change from perfect to crappy? Thats what happened, I was driving and all the sudden it started running like crap, split/second change.

EGR , I'll keep sayin' it, 'till you tell me ya checked it. Jus' tryin' ta help. Another thought on makin' sure it isn't that would be to by-pass the unit altogether. Disconnect at plenum and stick a cork in the hole, if this immediately solves your problem IT'S THE EGR! TRUST ME ON THIS!

first thing in the mourning, ill check it. Curious though, how would the EGR cause my problem?

But he says it occurs immediately on startup. It would be the EGR if the truck has already reached operating temp and then started to stumble. Ask me how I know this?

Its beginning to sound more and more like a fuel delivery problem. Which then you'd have to check fuel pump and fuel pressure regulator. The FPR test is easy, there's two ports in the diagnostic terminal you short and you should be able to hear a hissing sound coming from the FPR(all this is mentioned in the FSM)

Let us know what you find on testing the EGR.

Hmmm....my 3.0 was doing the same thing. It ran fairly well while driving, but would die at an idle before or after reaching operating temp. I replaced the engine coolant temperature sensor and it stopped doing it. I even had more power after that. Oh, and the clicking noise went away, too.

have you done the obvious? check cap/rotor/plugs?? Try some redline fuel system cleaner in a 1/4 tank of gas, maybe pull the air intake away from the throttle body and spray some cleaner in there.

I've done all of the above and its helped a bit, but when cold it will idle fine but for the first minute or so if I don't rev past 3500 to get going it will almost die, even when i put the clutch in it takes a sec to recover and get back to idle. I have never had a check engine light. Very interested in what you find!