Thanks a lot, Alexman!
Awesome! This is crucial info that I meant to ask you on Youtube channel.
Agree 110% on tapping the appropriate race (the only time when racism is alright -LOL!), in fact I Iike that better than using a press that hits both races.
Also, since I'm getting bearings, seals, retainer collars and clips, I think I can cut the old retainer collar an use that in place of your angle iron, to tap only the inner race.

Thank again for the confirmation. Agrees with Millball above, and the fact that FSM mentions no specs for it.
Very reasonable cost but I'm minimal - renting a condo, want to be able to load everything in truck and go whenever, wherever - so I don't want to accumulate stuff.

Just wondering aloud . . . are the current bearings stuck / seized on?

Nope, just not smooth when turning by hand, drove back all the way from Utah and still driving around San Diego.
Bearing Kit ETA tomoro so hoping to get job done by Friday.

Tnx, Wally! (I checkd but did not see your write-up about it.)
Did u sense same hum? Mine sounds/feels like a hard rubber sound, not metallic. More like cupped or out of balance tires.
Any play or vibration? I did not feel any as I manually spun wheels or hub, just does not turn smoothly.
Is oil stain from a leak or just from removal process?
No complication with your Remove n Replace experience?

Thanks, Wally. I also sensed a very faint hum when I got the truck, but it was of lower frequency, not woo-waa-woo-waa-wooo (Tommy used to work on the docks...). :)
Got the kit from Marlin Crawler today. KOYO bearings! Will ping someone locally who has special tool and a press.

Interesting about the brake shoes. Pls share what brand model you got so we can avoid it. I'm pretty happy with the NAPA non-premium cylinders and shoes I have now.

Parts arrived...

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ex...-w1380-h776-no

KOYO made in Japan. Looks like PN 6308T.

Retainer Snap Ring does not have pin-holes for snap-ring pliers to engage, so it doesn't make sense to me to buy special pliers for it (I do not like to accumulate stuff). I guess I could simply push it out with long-nose pliers or channel locks.

I got new retainer collars with the kit, so I plan to cut one old retainer collar (or file inner diameter) so it fits loosely around the shaft and use that to tap inner race onto axle shaft.

As usual, thoughts, suggestions would be appreciated.

Best of luck trying to use pliers instead of the correct Snap ring pliers.

No friends close enough to borrow the right tool ??

Snap rings are those things that fly never to be seen again in my case

Those collars are a royal pain to get off I find the best way for me is to cut through one place with a cutting disc then knock them off with the air hammer .

Then it takes 20 crush washers to change a fuel filter for me.

:) Thanks, Craig.
I got new clips with the service kit and I often cover the clips with a rag when I do these things so not too worried about disappearing retainer snap ring/clips.
Alexman's video shows that the collar comes off easily with the press and special tool.

Transfer Case Output Play
 

I also checked transfer case and rear differential for play.
I think this is called backlash, when drive shaft turns a little with differential and transfer case still?
Then there is radial play (clearly at 0:18 mark) on transfer case output. Could be a bearing and seal job in the near future?
There's already some gear oil seepage, although not dripping, at transfer case output and differential input so I'm researching. However, if you have info/links handy, please share here.

Are those plays excessive?

Rotational play is normal and required. You are correct, that play is called (or the result of) backlash. Backlash is required in any gears because if there was none there would be no allowance for any sort of expansion or any flex in the system. Those situations would cause immense stresses and possibly bind things up. They would also cause high pressures on the gear tooth faces and rapid wear. There are some cases where there is no backlash on purpose but for the most part, every gear needs some lash.

Any other play is a sign of wear or something wrong. One suggestion before you go assuming you have bad bearings in your transfer case though. On my 87 4Runner, the nut on the transfer case flange backed off. I'm not sure how as it's staked just like the pinion nut, but it did. This caused a wobbly transfer case flange and an oil leak. The oil leak came through the splines. From new, the splines are sealed with RTV. To properly fix this, remove the nut and flange, and clean the male and female splines. Install a new seal if you want or if it's appropriate. Apply RTV. Install the flange and nut. Torque the nut to whatever and re-stake it. This flange is NOT like the differential pinion flange where you need to measure bearing preload. Just tighten it up and stake the nut. If that doesn't solve your problem then you may have to dig deeper.

i recall that installing the snap ring isn't very difficult. slide it down the axle shaft, and a flat-blade screwdriver and needle-nose pliers can get it into the groove without much fuss. the ring opening is small enough that it won't easily pass the axle shaft, ie, won't go flying away and disappear.

looked into my file. bendix #PB568 (PB568 : P), purchased through rockauto. can't complain too much, paid $11.06 for the shoes.

That doesn't look right to me. There is a very noticeable amount of movement more than I would imagine is "normal".

Didn't I read somewhere that your trans/transfer case was rebuilt within the last few years?

Thanks, Wallytoo and guys!.

L5wolvesf and Arlindsay,
Yes, I saw that Arlindsay did one side at a time on youtube. However, I'll take my axles to someone who has a press so I'll have to drain a little bit of diff oil.

Thanks, I'll look into the transfer case items, too. ^^^
I think Grego has procedure for replacing his transfer case seal and/or bearing. Will look at that again.
Just the transmission was rebuilt. Input shaft was making a sound, so I had it rebuilt in Texas.

Axle Shaft Pulled Out
 

Hi guys,
Pulled out left side axle shaft and bearing play is in video below.... Confirmed bad? Will do right side after I buy something to plug the brake line.
BTW, I had to get creative to remove snap ring.
Gotta need the tool to re-install. Snap ring does not have the usual pinhole for pliers to engage. Pls see picture I posted ^^^.
Would someone pls post picture or link to proper tool I should get for this? TIA.

This is the sort of pliers needed for that type snap-ring:: New Britain #P58 is another good example of the type.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Cra...ty!85602!US!-1

Or . . .
Replace the snap ring with a more common one with the pinholes?

Thanks, guys.
Got $8 exchangeable tip pliers from O'Reilly. Even the nicer ones still required a little creativity and aid from other hand and other tools, so cheap ones makes sense.


https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/UM...-w1380-h776-no
PULLED AXLE OUT

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/13...-w1380-h776-no
THIS WAS AFTER I WIPED THE LEFT SIDE CLEAN, BUT IT WAS CLEANER THAN THE RIGHT SIDE (FURTHER BELOW. Seal even looks good, no excessive gear oil outside this flange.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/QX...6-w716-h776-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/eF...7-w667-h400-no


At first I thought mark said, "NGK". It's actually "NOK"! LOL!