Removing reed and egr valve/ systems
 

Guys,
When installing these headers >> https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f130...install-75128/ I would like to get rid of both of these reed and egr systems. Has anyone successfully done this? I do not have to worry about emissions (egr) not sure what the reed is for though.

22RE Compression limits
 

Guys,
Do you know what the range is for this motor in a 94' pickup? Per toyota.

22re valve adjustment
 

Guys,
I've been reading a lot about how critical regular valve adjustments are on the v6, but what about the 4 banger? How often does Toyota recommend?

every other spark plug tune up / replacement.

Which is how many miles per toyota?

30 seconds searching and:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f123...n-tests-76841/

Right or wrong? Who knows.

Regarding the "maximum variation between cylinders" spec. What does it mean if that spec is greater than 14 psi?

The spec is never greater than 14 PSI difference between cylinders.

If ALL cylinders are above the minimum, and all cylinders aren't within 14 PSI of each other, it's out of spec.
So say #1 reads 168, #2 is 162, #3 is 155 and #4 is 173.
All are greater than 142, so all is good, right?
Difference between #1-#2 is 6 (good)
Difference between #1-#3 is 13 (good)
Difference between #1-#4 is 5 (good)
Difference between #2-#3 is 7 (good)
Difference between #2-#4 is 11 (good)
Difference between #3-#4 is 18 (bad)
Time to rebuild, or at least validate valves are adjusted properly with no burnt seats, etc.
Too much variance between compression in cylinders will create uneven "power" pulses to be generated when a cylinder is on the power stroke, thus unacceptable torque variance on the crankshaft. This can cause the crank to not be exactly where the ECU expects the next cylinder to be and fire the plug at the wrong time, thus stress the crank, bearings, rod and ....

Hmmm, I just had a test done and all were 180psi except for #3 which was 150.

My FSM states to check valves every 30k miles.

this will answer all of your questions that end with "per toyota"

http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/

http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/

Toyota FSM

General rule of thumb is to change the oil every 3000-6000 miles depending on usage; plugs every 2nd (or third) oil change so 6000-12000 (up to 18000) miles; valves every other plug change. So checking valves at 36000 miles fits, based on fairly liberal "preventive maintenance" procedures.

http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/1993/engine/6compress.pdf

Difference between each cylinder:

98 kPa (1.0 kgf/cm2, 14 psi) or less


180-150=30
#3 fails.

adjust valves then recheck compression. if it still reads the same something else is wrong. nut it could be somthing bad in the head and suggesting a rebuild because of a cylender low on compression is kinda leaping before you look..

Yep.
The next step would be performing "leak down" tests to isolate rings from bad intake or exhaust valve seats.

How to eliminate your egr valve system
 

Guys, looking to completely remove the egr valve and it's complete system with out tripping the check engine light. Is it possible and what needs to be done? this is for the v6.

I don't want to sound rude in any way but why do you want to remove your EGR sensor? If its throwing a code what code is it? Also did you pull it out to clean to clean it off? I left mine unplugged when I put my plenum back on and my truck was running hot and like crap... my gas mileage went down the tubes to. After a tank of gas at 14miles per gallon I found that the sensor was unplugged, plugged it in truck ran cooler and my gas mileage went back up to around 18miles per gallon. I thought the EGR sensor allows emissions to run back through the plenum and burn off better before leaving the engine.