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-   -   Removing Oil Cooler Line Help (https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116/removing-oil-cooler-line-help-312349/)

NMDesertRat 12-08-2020 07:44 PM

Removing Oil Cooler Line Help
 
1986 4Runner. Auto trans.

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...c0b17f2238.jpg

I need to remove and clean my neutral safety switch. The problem is that there is an oil cooler line bent around it so closely that I need to remove the line to free the switch from the mount location.

Is there a secret to this line? I tried removing B first, but there isn't enough give to just back it out of the 90.

So, I then tried to remove A, but after unscrewing the collar it doesn't budge either. I'm trying not to break this old line, so I didn't pry too hard, but I did give it a bit of leverage with my wrench and it didn't move.

Is there some secret to this, or should I go ahead and give it some juice to pull A out of the trans body?

Alternatively, If I can get the mount clamp for these two lines by the engine compartment loose, do you think I can then back out B? That line's collar was a bit of a bugger to get back in, but gotta do what I gotta do.

CCDave 12-11-2020 06:10 PM

"B" unscrews, so you're first instinct was right. Use a flare nut wrench on B if you have one, and another wrench on the section between A and B to get the leverage needed. The hose on the other can flex enough to pull the flared end out when loose. If not, disconnect the hose at the rad for more slack.

NMDesertRat 12-12-2020 04:17 PM


Originally Posted by CCDave (Post 52455226)
"B" unscrews, so you're first instinct was right. Use a flare nut wrench on B if you have one, and another wrench on the section between A and B to get the leverage needed. The hose on the other can flex enough to pull the flared end out when loose. If not, disconnect the hose at the rad for more slack.

I went ahead and attacked it again today.

There were two brackets tightly holding the lines. Once I removed both of those the B line flexed out no problem. Thanks for the confirm CCDave!

Pics of neutral safety switch both duty and clean...

The grease inside had turned into a weird colloidal plasticy stuff. The wafers on the arm didn't spring anymore. It was a mess!

I have backup lights again!

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...63e5e44422.jpg
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...a9a8970e00.jpg
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...146da349ee.jpg


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