remove ring and pinion in 93 toy
 

I have been having problems with the rear end in my 1993 4runner, while driving I could hear a rumble sound from the back, When I stopped I felt the rear axles and they were cool but the pinion was a different story, the front of the snout was hot, hot enough that you didn't want to leave your hand on it for long. I pulled the ring and pinion and can't feel any rough bearings and all the teeth on both are in good shape. When driving and I stopped, then started again sometime I would hear a pop like something was going through the gears. There was not any metal on the magnets and nothing in the case. Any ideas as to where the popping and growling could be coming from. I have it apart so am going to replace the bearings in the pinion and ring gear. One other thing, on the top of my differential there is a round silver thing attached to the differential and held there with a bolt and a bracket. Photos to follow.

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Attachment 208699

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What is it and what does it do, the bottom part just sits above the ring gear but not touching, there is a vacuum line attached to it.

Not a vacuum line, an electrical lead. A sensor for rear wheel ABS.

Differentials generally run 80 to 100 degrees F. over ambient temperature when run at highway speeds for 20 miles or more and the pinion nose is the hotest part.

Thanks Millball, This is my first Toyota, there are a lot of things on here that I don't understand. The toy has over 180,000. miles on it so I am replacing a lot of things, but don't want to do something that doesn't need it. The motor has been completely rebuilt, it was a basket case when I bought it, I have replaced the exhaust system, removed the pipe from behind the heads and installed a set of headers and new pipe all the way back. I hope that changing the bearings will get rid of that rumbling in the rear end.

If you haven't done it and are replacing the bearings in the differential it would be a good time to do the axle bearings also.
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On another note who's headers did you use?

cheers

Does the pinion feel as if there is excess play? Does it rotate smoothly? If you don't find an obvious cause of the noise check the axle bearings now that you have it disassembled. Its a good idea to check these even if the pinion bearing is the culprit.

The pinion feels smooth and there is a small amount of force to turn it, not sure of what the torque is as I don't have a socket that fits. Going over to a buddies house in a bit to use his and will see. When I pulled the axles the driver side looked good but the passenger side looked like it may be the problem. You are right, might as well change them also. The headers are from DNA motoring there are a few things that I don't like but for the most part they fit very nice. I am going to change the clamps, the headers are stainless steel and the clamps that come with won't hold they are also slip fit and don't weld great. There is also a small amount to clearance problem with the starter housing. You half to remove the transfer case cooler and turn it upside down to clear the passenger side header.

You can just see one down pipe in this photo
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OK, last question. Anybody know the torque setting for the bolts on the ring gear bearings. Again Haynes won't tell, do think they know.....

75 foot pounds on the carrier bearing cap bolts.

Thank you sir, I am just getting it back together.

Hope she is quiet for you.

It will be a couple of days before I know. I work outside and yesterday we had a down pour like you can't believe, it blew over the wifes carport and was upside down on my truck, flower pots were blown over, rain was so heavy you couldn't see. I don't want to lay out in the mud so letting things dry out .

OK, what am I doing wrong......I have pulled enough brake fluid out to fill the reservoir twice and am still getting bubbles, there is no free fluid on either backing plates and I see no leaks, the only brake lines I took loose were the ones on the slave cylinders so the axle could be pulled. where could the air leak be. I only pulled the reservoir down to about half before filling again so its not getting in there, but obviously I have a leak somewhere. Any tricks that I am overlooking.........

I am thinking about removing all that crap on the rear end, there are hyd line running all over the place that I just don't see the need for, ( options )

Are you vacuum bleeding?

Sometimes vacuum bleeding will pull in air around the bleeder screw threads, making it look like you have a bunch of air still in the system. Some people have put some grease around the bleeder screw to seal up the threads so air cannot enter the system while bleeding.

:safari:

Thank you I will try that.

This is for everyone, don't get old, when I put the brake drum on it was to tight so I backed it off until the drum went on easy, to far I guess, so the brake on the right side was very loose, wonder why my foot pedal felt mushy. I have been driving and applying the brake and its coming around. got half a pedal now. I remembered in the old chevys with auto brakes, you backed up and pressed the pedal reliced and do it again, still have a way to go, but getting better. When you get old your mind just don't work like it should, you forget things and then wonder why its not working. I have been an auto and aircraft mech all my life ( well up until now) it may be time to quit. What I could do in a couple of days takes me a week or more ......

You do know that it's the regular repeated application of the emergency brake that adjusts the rear drum brakes on these Toyotas??

No I didn't, but it must also work off the brake pedal also. I have been using the parking brake so maybe thats where the adjustment is coming from. I used the toy to back my boat into the boat house and used the parking brake.