New to me 4Runner - Failed California smog
 

Just picked up a 93 3.0 4runner, despite it having a wide range of issues. Hoping I can take care of the majority of them without too many surprises.

First problem is going to be getting it to pass smog... It's starting up and running pretty rough until warm. Seems to have a couple bad injectors and I plan on swapping all 6 with some re-manufactured injectors from rockauto. I'll do the PCV while I'm in there. Timing is also off by 6 degrees per the prior owner. Couple questions I have:
1 - Any suggestions on things I should check for or swap/clean while I'm doing this?
2 - I believe I need an intake plenum gasket... does that sound correct? Any other gaskets or parts I'll need besides the injectors?
3 - Any other thoughts on the emission results? Obviously hoping I don't need to replace the cats, but figure starting off with getting it running properly is the best move.

Attachment 207600

Thanks for any suggestions in advance.

Wow. 399 ppm HC; I'm surprised you could even see the smog tech with all that smoke. Well, you've got passing (though not that good) NOx numbers, which would otherwise be much harder to fix.

First, in California it is legally the responsibility of the seller to pass smog. Yeah, yeah, even I once bought a truck knowing it didn't pass smog. But if push comes to shove, you are entitled to get your money back.

Here's a technical article on emissions. http://www.cygnusx1.net/Media/Supra/...taTech/h56.pdf High HC combined with high CO generally means you are running rich. WAY rich. My guess is that you've got more than one cylinder missing (when the cylinder doesn't fire, it dumps all the HC into the exhaust). I'd start with the plug test; at idle, pull each plug wire one at a time. You should get an rpm drop with each wire; the ones that don't give a drop are suspect.

Next, pull each plug and look at it. Wet? Black? Sooty? It's possible you have a stuck-open injector, but not too likely. Is there any other reason you think you have bad injectors?

Very generally, bad gaskets can lead to vacuum leaks, which often lead to a too-lean situation. You have the opposite. (It's not quite as simple as that; if you have a vacuum leak the extra O2 can fool the ECM into thinking you need more fuel. Watching the output of the O2 sensor could help.) Is there a reason you think you need a gasket? Have you tried testing with an un-lit propane torch? If you're serious about the injectors, it doesn't matter, because you'll have to replace that gasket on the way.

The good news is that once you get the engine running more-or-less correctly, smog is easy. With my '94, my last smog check was 8ppm HC.

Good advice above.
I'd check for codes and write them down.
Get the timing set. If it was advanced to compensate for a underlying issue you will have to track down why.
Does it look like the prior owner was fairly responsible about maintenance and oil changes? Personally, I'd pull the valve covers and make sure I didn't have oil build up.
Since you just acquired the vehicle it never is a waste to replace spark plugs, wireset, cap, and rotor. I’d getting Denso only. Except for the plugs:either Denso or NGK. If you Google "Denso find my parts" you can see all they offer.

I highly recommend trying to leave the catalytic converters alone for now. First, it's pretty rare for cats to be the root problem. Usually something upstream is contaminating them. Once you fix the main problems factory cats will usually clean up. From my own personal experience I can attest to the disappointment in quality and durability of aftermarket cats. No wonder the Bureau of Automotive Repair regards them with disdain.

Once you find and repair all the driveability issues it never hurts to go into a smog test with fresh engine oil and a tank of 91 octane Chevron or Mobil.

As you find issues post up and let us know what you find. Pictures are great.

Thanks for the info and advice. Probably could have included this info but didn't want to make that first post too lengthy: According to prior owner he did plugs, wires, fuel filter, distributor rotor. I didn't pull the plugs but from what I'm looking at, I don't have reason to doubt it. I can pull them to take a look but I'm pretty sure it hasn't been driven much since then. We pulled the connectors at the distributor and all were getting spark, but two didn't seem to affect how it was running. He seemed pretty confident that the two injectors were the issue. Prior to him picking up the vehicle, it sat for quite awhile... I'm knowingly going into it pretty blind, tbh.

Only reason I asked about the gasket was because I'm planning on doing the injectors and hoping that gets me pretty close to where I need to be... not so much an issue with me thinking the gasket is bad but knowing that I'll need one. Vacuum leak is entirely possible, although I have absolutely zero experience in chasing down vacuum leaks.

Definitely won't be touching the cats until I check off a few other things. I'll look for a write up or video on pulling the valve covers... I was thinking if it looks like they are leaking at all I might as well do them anyway. That'll be a new step for me as well though... I'll have to do a good amount of reading (and taking/posting pics) in order to know how good/bad of a situation I'm in. I'd be happy to just check off as many things as I can while I'm already pulling a few things apart.

First things first it does show you failed for timing. Get it timed correctly this alone could be why you are failing smog

Yotard, I considered that for a couple days while I cleaned up and looked over several other things and decided there were enough red flags that I was going to start pulling things apart...

Got the plenum lifted off the intake today and I've got a variety of concerns... mostly just that it may not be worth it for me to try and fix this. Even if it is "fixable", the project will certainly be more complex than anything I've done before. I may start a new thread before the day ends just to try to get some feedback on if I should even bother trying to get this 4Runner/engine in decent running shape.

On to the pics... hopefully I'm describing this all correctly. My understanding is the plenum sits on top of the intake manifold.

Pulled the TB and things looked pretty dirty from the beginning.
Looking into plenum from TB:
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...2ebbb0ea80.jpg


Lifted the plenum and they got much worse
Overhead shot into intake:
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...abdc78f676.jpg


Front end ports on intake:
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...854e8a70b7.jpg


Rear 3 ports on intake:
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...63983d1fb1.jpg


Front end ports on plenum:
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...bfe57d63c7.jpg


Rear 3 ports on plenum:
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...1f303c9e32.jpg


Sooo... I've got basic hand tools but little knowledge and experience. I was thinking I could manage to get my way through doing injectors (if I decided it was worth going that far). Full engine rebuild is definitely beyond my ability, and I'm not sure I want to try and go as far as even pulling the whole manifold - although I haven't looked into how much more that entails.

General question is... what am I looking at and how bad is it? Is it worth trying to swap injectors, clean up everything I can reach, and putting it back together? Is it worth paying someone who knows what they're doing to get it into running shape? Should I walk away from the engine?

Actually, taking the manifold off the engine isn't all that hard, and doing it with common hand tools is within the realm. Cleaning the crud out is pretty easy as well. Get a few cans of carb cleaner and start spraying. Do it over dirt if at all possible, or speedy-dry (clay kitty litter), and if not, over a trash can. A metal one. Remember, that stuff is flammable as all heck, so be careful. If you have to do it over a trash can, leave the top loose when you get done, so it can evaporate out into the atmosphere, and not be trapped. Trapped, the fumes can become a real nice bomb. One little spark...
NO SMOKING!! :fire2:

Anyway, if you want to do the manifold, it just flows right out. The throttle body takes a little disassembly, but once you spray some in, you can slosh it around, and let it flow out again. A few of those and it's clean as a whistle.
The crud comes from the EGR system, mainly, so when you've cleaned it out, it will start to build again, once the engine is running again. A little bit comes from the air coming in, but as long as you keep a decent filter on, it won't have much of an effect.

As to the the injectors, they're pretty easy to take off. You can either send them in for rebuild/tuning, or you can replace them. If you decide on replacement, make sure you ONLY get OEM injectors, like from a dealership or LC Engineering. Never get after market injectors from some unknown company. Remember to always use new o-rings on them ANY time you take them out and put them back in. Even if you just did them yesterday, put new ones on if you have to take them off and put them on again today, for whatever reason.
Same for the "crush washers" used throughout the fuel system. Like on the fuel filter, pressure regulator, and the cold start injector. Any time you loosen the banjo fittings they're used on, you need new ones before you put them together. Again, even if you just replaced them 10 minutes ago, if you loosen a fitting off for any reason, replace the crush washers. If not, you may very well wind up with a fuel leak, and bad fire hazard.
Same goes for the TB or manifold. Take em off, they get new gaskets. Every time.

Now, get to it, and great good fortune to you!
Pat☺

The intake build up isn’t the end of the world. I’d still recommend pulling the valve covers. That’ll give you a good idea how diligent the previous owner was on maintenance. Compression and leak down tests would be a good idea, too.

Thank you, Pat!!

Couple follow up questions... I've already ordered these remanufactured injectors from Rockauto https://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/au...+injector,6224 - should I return them and get dealership or LC Eng injectors?

I was assuming the injectors would come with fresh o-rings - should I be ordering a set of o-rings in addition to injectors? I see these...https://www.yotashop.com/toyota-3-0l...g-90301-23004/

I didn't anticipate crush washers... if they are on banjo fittings and not on the injectors themselves I'll need to get those as well. Any chance you know how many I'll need? And I see these... https://www.yotashop.com/toyota-oem-...r-90430-12005/

Gaskets I know - I already have a TB mounting and plenum gasket - I'll get the manifold gasket if decide I'm going that far.

In terms of cleaning... I can figure out the throttle body easy enough. Plenum isn't fully removed, just halfway and hanging as I tried to avoid a vacuum line mess and confusion. I could probably figure out how to clean it as it hangs but in reality it's likely easier to label all the lines and just take it off completely. I've got plenty of the kitty litter absorbant... I live right on the coast and do my best to avoid letting anything run off.

Thanks again!

Your plenum and lower intake manifold don't look that bad to me. (Those are the names I see most often for those parts.) I would recommend cleaning them, but I disagree on using carb cleaner (at least until the very end.) Too poisonous, too flammable, and you're really just going to let it run out on the ground? Get a "mortar tray" from Home Depot (sorta 3'x4' plastic swimming pool) to hold the run-off. Get a dollar-store "bottle brush." Use a strong degreaser (I've had good luck with "Purple Power.") (Like almost all degreasers, Purple Power has a pretty high pH. You'll be fine scrubbing with it (wear gloves), but don't leave it on machined aluminum surfaces overnight.) You don't need to get it perfect; but if you care about the last few specks you can use a light spritz of brake cleaner then.

The "ends" of the plenum are closed with "freeze plugs." 96411-44000 https://parts.lakelandtoyota.com/sho...rimLevel=18380 I didn't remove them to clean my plenum, but if I did the job again I would. Much better access. The dirt by itself isn't really a big problem, you worry about how it covers up the various ports on the side of the plenum. (Like the EGR.)

Don't leave the plenum "halfway and hanging." At some point you'll break something, and you'll have a tough time figuring out where it should go! Suck it up and draw yourself a nice diagram of every connection. Marking the vacuum lines with masking tape is okay so far as it goes, but if you're drawing a diagram just trace each line to where it goes. Just a quick sketch: something like this:
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...3f26529290.png
I've found the best source for crush washers to be the dealer. Here's an online one that has good prices and good service. https://parts.lakelandtoyota.com/sho...rimLevel=18380 Your brick-and-mortar dealer will charge more per item. The online stores gotta charge for shipping, so you'll come out ahead if you're ordering a couple of something.

If you do go to a brick-and-mortar dealer, here's some advice. Do your best (as you are now) to figure out the exact parts you need. Print out the diagram with the parts on it (like the one I cite), and write your VIN on it. That makes the job of the parts-woman a LOT easier. They have various prices for parts, ranging from "the independent Toyota shop" (lowest) to "moron who doesn't even know the year of his vehicle." (highest) You know which end of that range you want to be on.

Thanks scope. Was planning on going the mortar tub route with absorbant.

Got a lil further today, but I'm currently having trouble getting the passenger side fuel rail off...

The guide I'm using doesn't show this too well but I'm having trouble getting this nut loose, and I think its the only thing holding the rail back. It's either that nut or the small black hose thats directly down and to the left, but I'm not sure how I'd get that off either.
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...36e1fb5141.jpg


Driver side come off pretty easy. Couple pics of what I've found in case anyone wants to offer some input...
I'm not sure where this o ring came from but it was laying on the manifold so I grabbed it. I thought it fell out when I lifted the rail but not positive.
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...0ae3d09ab1.jpg
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...948295690f.jpg
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...91b0451d35.jpg
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...7064a727c3.jpg

Never dealt with injectors so I really have no idea what I'm looking at, or for, but they look rough to me. The black plastic near the tips seem to be each cracked a little differently. I know I need to pull those boots but getting the passenger side off is my first worry.

And I would assume this is typical but the connectors for each injector were super brittle and I thought they were going to crush into a bunch of flakes. I assume that's typical, but I think I got them all off without too much damage.

Your injectors "look" fine; a little polish is all they need. If you're going to send them out to be serviced, they'll come back looking like these:
If you plan to take care of them yourself, you might want to pick up a kit like this: The black plastic on the tips is often called the "pintle" or the "pintle cover." I'm not too sure how vital they are, but for the money it's worth it to replace them.

The item with the red ellipse in your photo is the fuel pressure damper. The nut is tightened to only 25 lb-ft; spray it with a little PB Blaster or other penetrating oil, then jiggle it gently. Last I checked it was a 27mm hex, but I could fit a (Cresent brand) adjustable wrench in there.

The fitting at 2 o'clock to your ellipse is the Thermal Vacuum Valve (TVV) or Bi-metallic Vacuum Switching Valve (BVSV). It should have two vacuum lines to it, and yeah, you've broken off the lower one. There are those on this site who (claimed to) have successfully repaired one, but I'd just spring for $55 and get a new OEM. https://parts.lakelandtoyota.com/p/T...092505047.html
or https://www.zoro.com/standard-igniti...eature-product

Thanks again scope. Got the passenger side out after some more effort. Thanks for pointing out the TVV/BVSV... it's actually the top that is broken and I would have never noticed it. Even looking for it I couldn't see it broken until I came from a certain angle because it broke off so clean. I don't *think* I was the one that broke it... what kind of issues would that have caused if the engine was running that way prior to me messing with it? One of the injectors from the passenger had a cracked and half missing seal (the thicker black plastic seal that sits just above the brown portion of the injector)

The injector cups are still in the manifold... do I need to pull those? They don't slip out the way I thought they would and I'd rather not risk breaking them if there's no reason to.

These autoline injectors from rockauto just got delivered - do I need to return them? I thought they'd be OEM and reman'ed but they don't say denso on them (the entire brown area is paint). I'd happily return them if it's not worth it to put them in. I could send the ones I have out to be serviced if you all have a recommendation, but I'm fine ordering a set and sending mine back as cores to try and avoid downtime and start putting things back together.

So at this point I'm going to go ahead and order:

• 8 Crush washers for the 4 main banjo fittings (P# 9043012026)
• 2 washers for the fuel pipe on the passenger side fuel rail (P# 9043008012)
• 2 washers for the for the damper (P# 9043018028)
  • -Do I need to worry about the damper itself? I feel like I've read about that failing a couple times
• The BVSV (P# 9092505047)

I can order o-rings for the injectors but the injectors I just received appear to all have o-rings - am I correct in understanding I don't need a set if I'm using a different set of fresh injectors?

Beyond that I think I'm left with cleaning up the manifold, plenum, TB... replacing the parts above once I get them, and trying to put it all back together and see what happens. And the PCV valve, I've already got that I just need to remember to do it before I put things back together. Any other suggestions?

And sorry - I know I'm asking a lot and obviously coming from an area of little knowledge but I really appreciate all the help.

IF you plan to do a complete cleaning on the lower intake manifold, it might be a good idea to pull out the cups. Note that they have their own big o-ring. One trick to removing old rubber (hoses, o-rings, etc.) is the heat them up with a heat gun or even a hair dryer. This makes the rubber a little more pliable, and you can remove the item without damaging the rubber. If you use a heat gun, put your hand on the part you're heating. If it's too hot for your hand, you've gone far enough.

Or, you might want to hedge your bets and just leave the cups in. Remove the risk of breaking them, and you won't have to source the o-ring.

If it were me, I'd use the injectors you just got, but I don't worry as much about non-OEM as do others. There are folks out there who offer "four-hole" injectors, which I think are injectors for a different application that are re-purposed. Some folks swear by them, some have a lot of trouble. YMMV. Yours are single-hole injectors, at least OEM-style. The OEM injectors have a part number molded into the brown plastic part, FWIW.

When you order the crush washers, order 2 extra of each size. I don't know how they do it, but if you order exactly the right number one of them will spring out of your hand and roll into the grass.

The damper fails by leaking (the rubber diaphragm inside fails). Otherwise, they're good. They're not cheap (I see RockAuto now has aftermarket ones for $72; a lot less than I paid for a Toyota one), so if it were me, I wouldn't replace it until it leaks. The bad news is that you have remove the plenum again, and parts of the fuel line. But by then, you'll be really good at it!

The o-rings (and the spacer and insulator) on your replacement injectors are what you need. Don't forget to "lubricate" the o-rings with gasoline as you "screw" them into the fuel rail. Once installed, you should be able to rotate the injector by hand. If not, you may have damaged the o-ring, and it will leak.

The TVV connects the vapor output of the evap canister to the throttle body, to pull the fuel vapors out of the canister. It will make the mixture slightly rich, but in closed loop the O2 sensor will seamlessly compensate. So you don't want the vapors getting sucked in during open loop, which is approximately when the engine is cold. You broke off the canister side, which means that when the TVV opened it was only sucking air, leaning out the mixture. Again, the O2 sensor compensates. So you probably didn't notice it, except for the strong smell of gasoline under the hood on the right side (as the canister kept filling and leaking out the broken line). The Toyota TVV isn't really designed to last 25 years; the plastic gets brittle and lots of us break them. You'll be better off with a new one.

Your PCV valve pushes into a big rubber grommet. I expect that it will be the consistency of concrete, not rubber. RockAuto has them for $1.

Good luck!

Alright, started to get back to it today after working all weekend. Still can't get the PCV valve out and I've managed to break off the top part of the grommet. It's loose enough that I can move it around but I just cant get the bottom portion of the PCV to slip out, yet. I'm using a small little pair of pliers and I've been using a pipe or handle of a hammer to try and create leverage. Before I run to autozone to try and find a pair of vice grips I can use and a to get a new PCV grommet, I figured I'd try to figure these two issues out...

#1 - Can anyone tell me if I need a specific hose or if I can use a generic hose for this? It's split at the tip... goes to the PAIR reed valve (as far as I can tell - I also see it referred to as the AS reed valve). I cannot find a part number for the life of me. This is the best diagram I could find, but I think the number 17341 is only part of the part number and I can't figure it out from Lakeland Toyota.
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...308ed0c208.png

#2 - I noticed that hose appeared broken off and don't remember removing it from anything. Went to check where it connects to and discovered it was broken on both sides :lof:. Here's a pic... I'm pretty confident I wasnt the culprit but who knows... anyone recognize it so I can make sure it's not something I'm missing from somewhere?
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...23782b7721.jpg


At this rate I probably won't get back to it until tomorrow, but hopefully once I get that PCV valve out I should be able to get things back together pretty quickly - at least up until the point that I start struggling to figure out which hoses go where.

Thx again.

Did I call it, or what?

I really doubt you could get generic hose to bend that sharply, particularly in the size you'll need. The good news is the part number is 17341-65040. The bad news: Toyota doesn't make it any more. https://parts.lakelandtoyota.com/p/T...734165040.html

But, some places claim to still have it. (New Old Stock?) https://www.toyotapartsdeal.com/oem/...341-65040.html
But it won't be the first time you place an order, and then find out they really don't have it. You could try calling first. Or just go for it.

It is a low pressure (atmospheric) line. If all else fails, a few wraps of electrical tape should last you for another 5-10 years ....

Thanks again scope!

Damned PCV... I wiggled it a bit and messed with the grommet and it didn't seem that bad. Thought I was finally going to have an easy step.
Started pulling and it went downhill... grommet basically exploded. Scraped and scratched the PCV all up. Broke one set of pliers. Was worried I was going to crack the damned valve cover because I couldn't find a good area to leverage it.
45 mins later I decided I need some locking pliers so I can try and grip and pry a bit better.

And I'm not sure how you found that damned part number... I tried for quite a while lol. Thanks a ton.

The dealer sites, like Lakeland, are pretty close to what the partsman is looking at at the dealer. Keep that in mind the next time you're drumming your fingers on the counter, wondering why it's taking him so long. Yeah, he looks for parts every day, but yours may be the first '90s-era 4runner he's looked at this year.

It sounds like you got the PCV out (they are a common stock item; your local parts store will have them on the shelf), and most of the grommet. (also a relatively common part). But there is a pretty good chance some of the grommet is still inside the valve cover. If you think there is, you'll probably have to remove the valve cover (since you've got the plenum off, removing the valve cover is pretty easy). There are baffles inside the cover, so you'll have to rotate the cover every which way while shaking it.

And once you've got the valve cover off, now is the time to at least check your valve clearance. I know you didn't want this much "mission creep," but checking the valve clearance is important, and it will never get easier.

Welp, didn't see your latest post scope and didn't end up pulling the valve cover.

I did get the PCV out today. For anyone that might be scrolling through looking for a stuck PCV solution:
When initially pulling it, I cracked off the top portion of the old grommet. I went and got some vice grip style locking pliers today. Latched those on good, used a tapered handle on a rubber mallet to create some leverage at an angle so that applying pressure on the handle would lift straight out (I was worried about bending and breaking off the PCV). Used a jack handle on the end of the pliers after hammering on them wasn't working, and was able to lean on it and it pried out pretty easy at that point.
Bottom portion of the grommet was still inside and broken into two pieces. I was sure I had to pull the valve cover at this point but when I pulled them out I was able to hold them together and I'm really confident nothing was left inside. Fit back together perfectly.

Decided to move on as is and try to start putting things back together (I'd tell anyone else: don't be a dumbass, just pull the valve cover).

Now I've got two new problems, of coarse.

I can't get the EGR nut to catch on the threads (red arrow below). I've spent probably 30 minutes trying everything I can think of - WD40, wire brushing the threads to clear them, different angles of pressure. It feels like it is about to catch occasionally (to the point I feel resistance and I practically need a wrench) and once I apply a little pressure it just drops right off. Other than that it just spins freely without catching. It didn't feel weird, stuck, or awkward when I loosened it, at least after I broke the initial tension.

I'm not sure how I'm going to get around this... if I can't get it I guess I'll have to lift the plenum and see if I can get it to thread without the pipe in place somehow. I haven't tightened the plenum down at all, but it will still be a pain in the ass as that one split hose took me like 45 minutes to get back on. Now I know how I split it.

The other issue is this damned clip, I still have to figure out what it is. Someone clipped the shield around the wire at some point on both of them (in the circle), but the clip that it connects to just fell right off. Is there anyway I can reconnect the wires without buying a whole new clip? I don't see anyway to do it in a way that I'd be confident with it staying put since theres no wire coming out of the clip.
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...c441d21a32.jpg
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...91bac0ddb0.jpg

I thought I was pretty close to trying to start it up today but it'll have to wait. I work the next few days, if I can't get that nut catch I'll have to read up and see if I can find a new one to order, hoping it isn't the EGR threads that are trashed (probably more likely). :bang:

Pro tip (well, amateur tip): When rubber gets old, it gets stiffer (kinda like me!) Not always as stiff as your grommet, but think of the PAIR hose as an example. What would soften it just a touch? Heat (warmth). Before I pull the plenum off the PAIR hose, I stick a heat gun in there to warm it up just a little (I put my hand on the hose; if it's too hot for my gloved hand, it's too hot). A hair dryer will work. You could have used that on the grommet as well. I also use it on all rubber hoses before putting strain on them.

On your EGR pipe, loosen (don't remove) both of those big nuts. Use PB Blaster or even just a little oil first. Loosen the attachment nuts. NOW get the big nut started. With it all a little shaky, alignment will be easier. Then tighten everything to spec.

The wire under your red circle is for the EGR Temp sensor. You need it; otherwise you'll get code 71. It's not shielded; the part cut back is just fancy wire covering. You can leave it, or stiffen it up with electrical tape. If I understand your pictures correctly, you are missing the whole connector (body and pins) from the harness side of the connector.

You have two options. See if you can find a part number (5 digits) on the connector body that you do have. Prefix that with a 5-digit number I can't put my hand on right now (I learned it here, so you can find it here), and that's the part number for that connector body. It should cross-reference to the other side connector body.

Or just punt. Go to any decent electronics store, and find a mating pair of 2-pin connectors that you like. Ask for the cheapest crimp tool they have that will work to crimp the new pins onto your wires. Then install, and you're done. It won't be stock, but that temperature sensor hardly ever fails.