If you are talking about the block-off plate towards the bottom of the exhaust manifold, that is for an oxygen sensor.

I am not sure what years used that port, but not all models used it. I know my carbureted truck doesn't use it, but that doesn't help you much......

:safari:

87 was the last year with the oxygen sensor on manifold, 88 (to 89?) it runs from the left side of the dash through the floor pan grommet, after that it runs over the transmission.

My thoughts are : there's only two places liquid fuel could come from to get in the charcoal canister and I believe the return from the fuel rail is supposed to go back to the tank, so disconnect the vacuum line from the pressure regulator there and see if fuel comes out and make sure it is not directed to the fuel canister. the other place is from the tank itself through the vapor line to the canister, which is not supposed to be drawing liquid from the tank just vapors from the very top of the tank. this is also the reason you are not supposed to completely top off your fuel tank so make sure when you blow in it you don't hear bubbles. remove the gas cap and have a helper listen while you blow in the line.

X2,

If the regulator leaks and the vacuum lines are connected wrong.

There is a delay of the vacuum switch, or it just takes awhile to saturate.

That fits the symptoms.

Thanks, all for the great info !
I really do appreciate it.

I confirmed that the compression on all 4 cylinders was nearing 175#.
Local mechanic was only getting 120# until I told him to take out all four plugs and stick the pedal to WOT.
I let it crank over several times on each cylinder (not sure how many times to go) and saw them all reach nearly 175#.
They all looked pretty consistent.

A new PCV is in hand and to be installed tomorrow or Friday.
I also ordered new PCV and breather hoses from valve cover to intake manifold.
They should also be here Friday.
I can, however, cobble some hoses together to test in the meantime (as the originals were badly cracked).
Boroscope indicated some possible "vertical lines" on all four cylinder walls, but the angles we could see wouldn't show how deep they could be.
We checked a few other engines he had sitting around and even known good ones had some vertical lines that weren't etched in with any noticeable depth.
Considering there is no blue smoke, we can only assume they are superficial in nature and depth.
Possibly from the possibility of not yet have been seated/broken in????????

Anyhoo - I found another shop a half hour away that has a "Tech that knows the 22re since he also drives a '94 with that same engine".
(for whatever that's worth)
I hope to take it there Friday afternoon or early next week.
My thinking is - during the diagnosis process, the "Toyota guy tech" could compare his known good configuration to my known bad one.
It's a lot easier to look at one engine then look at the other for noticeable differences.
At least that what I'm thinking. But what do i know?!?!

I read on the internet (so it must be true) that the return line from the fuel rail to the tank goes very near the bottom of the tank.
So - if a line is crossed, and enough pressure/vacuum exists... that the charcoal canister could conceivably drain the entire tank onto the ground.
Instead of pulling vapors, I might be pulling fuel.

Does anyone know that for a fact the return goes to the bottom and the vent only protrudes near the top??

I've searched so many posts here and other forums that I'm blue in the face.
If only the original posters would close the thread with their solutions !
If only !

Anyway - keep the info coming as eventually it will all make sense to this newbie.

jw

yes, and you can verify it. one line (through the pump) supplies fuel, one is a return and will make a bubbling sound when you blow through it and another that will make no noise when you blow in it. that should be all of the lines other than the fill neck and filler vent line.

Awesome.
Thanks AKWheeler and others.
I'll see what happens as soon as I can get there this week.
I may bring it home for a weekend visitation of sorts before taking it to the other shop Monday.

https://www.yotatech.com/how-tos/a/t...el-pump-414751

The line nearest the middle is the evap line.. I believe

Looking at this photo:

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/cimg/www.yot...ssy-130239.png

It appears, to me, that the middle is attached to the pump (supply).
It also looks like the nearest one to the camera goes to the bottom (assumed the return).
The third one looks like it pretty long and would extend a good distance into the tank.
Seems a little weird to me.
Wouldn't the vent terminate near the top of the tank?

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...6a895fac56.png
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...23eb7b2f58.png

Doesn't seem like these photos are from the same source, a cobbled howto bleh...

Probably best to just blow air through and find out which one of the low pressure (spring clamp) hoses bubbles..

The union fitting is for sure the high pressure line.

Based off the two images the return is the 90° one. That leaves the center most as evaporator.

Makes sense to me. Thanks.
I was able to find these photos that are helpful too:
https://www.1aauto.com/1986-95-toyota-4runner-pickup-fuel-pump-hanger-toyota-oem-23206-35250/i/tyfsu00002?f=1046537&y=1994

From what I can tell, but I'll confirm when the truck is back home, the vent should be the outer most low pressure line.
Nice to find photos of the actual OEM part number.

I also asked the current mechanic to check fuel pressure at the rail to check the status of the pressure regulator.

Thanks for the continued efforts.
jw

I think you are right. The last link I posted this AM has a lot better photos, but only 1 true test I suppose.
I'm getting a fuel pressure test today and plan to bring it home this afternoon or tomorrow to blow thru the lines and determine for sure.
I've ordered a fuel pressure regulator to have on hand just in case.
I can return it if not needed/installed.
I'm just ordering parts if they aren't too much $ since it takes a few days to get stuff out here in the sticks.
Thanks !

They would help me too.
:-)
It is currently at a local shop and I'm at work during the day.
I hope to bring it home today or tomorrow after work.

It is headed to another shop in another town Monday if I can't locate the issue over the weekend.

So - I'm picking up the Toyota after work today.
Somehow, they managed to get the PCV valve stuck inside the rocker box with a good portion of the grommet melted to it.
They have a valve cover gasket set on hand in case they need to pull that to get the PCV valve out.

At least I have new OEM breather hose and PCV hose to go on the new PCV valve - eventually.

They have yet to address the gas in oil or the gas leaking from charcoal canister.
Putting on the doner can didn't help and started puking petro after ~10min idle time.

I'm afraid if they pry much on the valve cover that they will bust a hole in the casting.
Are those things pretty thick and tough or fragile?
Would a heat gun help to separate the PCV valve form the chunk of grommet?
Seems a shame to pop off a cover that isn't leaking (as far as I know it isn't leaking).

I'm hoping to get it home this afternoon so I can investigate the tank hose routing over the weekend.

With the lack of blue smoke at the back end, were there any more comments form you guys on where the gas in the oil is coming from?
Could it also be a symptom of the other issues?

Continued thanks !
jw

The valve cover is sealed by a large rubber gasket/oring, it is reusable many times so no problem to take the cover off on if these.

However there is no access to the PCV from the inside, there is an oil baffle plate the full length of the cover.

If you are already putting a new valve and grommets a pair if locking pliers is probably the best way to get it out.

Diluted oil used definitely a possible symptom of the evap problem.

Unfortunately you are going to have to tackle one issue at a time in order to see if they are all related to one fix. My suspicion is that when the vapor canister is filling with fuel that is getting injected into the intake when it is supposed to be burning off the fuel tank vapors. all that fuel is washing down the cylinder walls removing the oil film and that can allow the extra fuel to blow by the rings and get into your crank case. especially if you are getting misfires and flooding issues, it's just pumping raw fuel past your rings. this is very bad for your cylinder walls so don't drive it too much until you figure this out.

PCV is out
 

Well, well, well.......
Some of you folks should be feeling pretty dog gone smart about now.

My Dad came down to pick up my son to take to their house for the night and helped me with some Toyota tinkering.
We:
1) Solved the mystery of the missing air from the center vents (above radio).
The white nylon piece that moved that particular door had jumped out of it's assigned place. We drilled a tiny hole and put a cotter pin in the shaft to keep that from happening again.

2) Replaced the OEM dash speakers with some Rockford Fosgate ones from Amazon.

3) Cleaned up some of the oil spattering fro that one time I took the oil fill cap off while idling AND with a bad PCV valve.

4) Installed a replacement antenna (that barely works and doesn't pick up half the stations the oem one (or what was left of it) picked up.
(That one might go back once I confirm the antenna got plugged into the radio correctly).

5) Fixed the broken back sliding glass window latch with one from Amazon.

6) Replaced the broken windshield washer motor and grommet and filled the jug.

7) Replaced the two broken center vents (still above radio) with non-broken ones form the previously mentioned junk yard.

8) Replaced the broken (and likely to break again) cup holder on the dash with a doner from the junk yard.

9) Replaced the band-aid of a gas cap (the one from which I removed the spring loaded check valve) with a new one.

10) AND FINALLY - - - - - -
Diagnosed the fuel puking from charcoal canister issue.
I think you guys were spot on !
I blew into the rubber hose form the metal line on the passenger fender well (that connects to the TANK port on the canister) and we heard bubbles in the tank with the gas cap removed.
I swapped the two non nondescript and identical black rubber low pressure hoses and just like the wind, in a quick minute all of those particular troubles disappeared.
No longer did air blown into the To Tank hose at the canister create the bubbly gurgling in the tank.
I'm not sure why or when they were reversed, but so far, after idling up to temp and running for approx 20 min and then a 10 min test drive, I'm happy to state that fuel is no longer puking from the charcoal canister.

Hip Hip Hooray !

It still goes to the shop Monday for a weird exhaust leak/chirping sound near the exhaust manifold and a thorough 'once over'.
It may also need an alternator as the bearing sounds like gravel in a trash can from my fancy new mechanics stethoscope from Advance.
"I'm not a doctor, but I'll have a look."

More updates as I can.

Many many thanks.
jw