Dont Drill Your Air Box!!
 

alright now watever you plan on doing to get more responsse,dont EVER drill the air box ,heres wat i encountered:

i was always braging about why the hell does my truck do better in cold condition,then i tought it was the moisture,and then i started playing with my timming advance ignition,then i screewed up everything,from TPS adjustments to changing my o2 sensor,and so on.:think:

but NOW i know,its that damn airbox,i just figured out i drilled it way back ago,while alowing more air into the box,i let hot air get inside too,cause the left side plenum is right near it creating alot of hot air inside motor,thats why when my engine was hot it was not performing.:drink:

i just did a small test .taping wut i did and trying to make a way for the cold air to get to the box easily,for now its just a experimentation,but it WORKS .defenatly a big difference when engine is hot. im looking forward on doing a mod real soon... get that intake as far as you can from hot air guys.

Best bet if you want cooler air flow is to swap the AFM with the battery, get it away from the exhaust altogether... esp if you have headers.

how would that help on a 3.0?:think:

Oh no, don't worry it will.:con:

I agree.. intake temps are really high on these trucks well into the 125+ F range.

ceramic headers will keep your engine better cooled than a stock manifold. if you run an open intake like k&n of aem ect. you'll actualy run hotter because its open to your engine heat. the stock intake box blocks some heat also the air boxes usualy have a small ram coming from around the headlights. you will get more air with intake though. run some pipes and just get it up and as far from the engine as reasonably posible. (if you don't wheel then putting it up isn't as neccesary.) some people run the intake to the fender or get a snorkle

thats why you go like this http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m...8/IMG_0744.jpg

Nice custom job there shoes! I bet it works killer for the good ol 3.slow. I know I would have tried that out if I didn't already have a K&N tube. It's a shame, too because I could've put that extra $350 toward a lift. By the way, how far does that thing hang down?

I noticed the exact opposite effect.

Down here in FL everything is flat as a pancake, but our humidity is usually in the 80-100% range with temps on the road in the summer usually in the 90-110*F range. (On road temp - which is much hotter than the normal temp, all courtesy of the road holding in heat.)

When I was stock, those blistering hot days my truck was SLOW. Im talking I can push it faster kinda slow. But on the cold nights, she'd run GOOD. 70% humidity and 70*F seems to be perfect for the truck to make power. It was a complete night and day difference. And if I were to take a wild shot in the dark, I'd say it was about a 30hp difference if not more. At night the truck would have all 150 hp, during the heat it MIGHT have had 120hp....if not less.

So one of my first mods was a KN drop in filter. Minimal to no effect. Next was a full blown KN FIPK kit. MUCH BETTER! At night it was the same, but during the scorching heat, I had most of my power. Probably 140 hp or so. (Again wild stabbing in the dark numberwise)

thanks, when it hella cold outside my yota pulls like no other. My intake only hangs out about 1inch. im prolly gonna switch it up but i dunno!

Got pic's of the filter location or where you plumbed the rest of your intake?

x2 on the filter location "please say there is one", and what the heck is that stupid trapazoid shaped box still plumbed in there for "tossed mine".

is that still smog legal in california

not a chance. i've got an isr too and there's no way it could smog. but, i do agree that with colder air my truck runs way better.

You all have a very strong point. And i agree with chief yota 100%. But in all honesty I think it varies depending on location. My reasoning, I live in northern minnesota. There are three count em 3 months out of the year where the temp rises above 50 degrees. Ambient air temperatures will without a doubt directly effect Intake Manifold temps, but for the most part, i feel the advantages far outweigh the "loss" (if any) in "power" (since our toyota 22re pump out a whopping 110 with mods if lucky). There is my two cents.

I agree and disagree, Location definatly a factor, also altitude, humidity and air temp. Air box mod maybe, your ECU and MAF should work to compensate for temp. Both temp and humidity cause a richer fuel mix mod or no mod. Higher altitude means richer mix too. Anyway you look at it your gonna have these changes. Colder weather means a higher oxygen content (denser air). So Warm bad Cold good. I think you notice it more because of the gain in throttle responce when cooler and less responce when warmer, I think you'll still have that difference with no mod at all because the gained responce is not there to begin with so when it becomes warmer/humid you don't notice. It is a 3.Slow, JMTC

That is unless you are a tree-hugging hippie...
Link. :hillbill:
I don't think any of us purchased our rigs with fuel economy in mind!

hey now, id rather have slightly over 20 mpg and 200 hp than 14 mpg and 270 like some ford or somethin. our fuel economy isnt bad at all.

edit, rly just felt like dissin ford there a little bit, but fuel eco still isnt bad...

Uhh steve u just agreed with him.
He says when it's hot out the air box drilled out sucks in hot air from the engine bay making it slower.
Oh i was driving my new 99' up to my cottage last weekend and temps hit 12 deg. celcius... and it felt like it picked up 20 hp... it was just ripping (i noticed when i went to pass someone doing 60 and all of a sudden i was doing 120, km/h, of course)

okay so im lost here, so i live in california, if i do the isr mod (pipe in pictures above) my truck wont smog??? omg, that sucks!!!!! and, so whats the final opinion on this airbox, yay, or nay? i was planning on doing it. i dont really like the fpik kit...