does anyone actually wheel their truck with 33x12.5 and ome coils?
 

OME 901 rear springs and 33x12.5 bfg m/t, you can see they are far too big for the wheel wells.

It seems like this lift is very common as well as that tire size but i never heard anyone saying they have this much clearance issues??????

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t4L7rJpBWtw[/youtube]

hmmm... that could cause some problems I suppose... :roll:

Ouch.

You could body lift it for cheap. Just throwing out ideas.

That does look like an issue you got there.... I say get 32s, i've never rubbed one and I've been half up the doors in mud out here in oregon with some nasty washed out trails and climbing it over downed trees (big trees) and never had a rub, even full flex with only two on the ground. i know some people say to use a drop bracket for the panhard bar and I would say add a standoff for the bump stops.

FWIW, i run the 901 coils with 33x10.5 ATs and i have zero rub issues on the rear... i have about half inch clearence, but the tire tucks just fine into the fender...

i think your problem is just the width of the tire... and the fact that it looks like your have some major offset on those rims... i run the stock SR5 rims and like i said they clean, but when i had my 32x11.5 BFG MTs with an unknown offset rim they rubbed like crazy...

Not sure what lift those OME coils give.... I run about 3-4" of lift and 33x12.5's. A small body lift and/or coil spacer & Balljoint spacer lift would probably due the trick. Also remember wheel backspacing/offset will play a large role in what clears....

:saw:
Hit it with the sawzall

Alright thanks for the replies. here is the setup on my truck

OME 900 coils (same lift as 901s just softer spring rate, and these are a copy of the landcruiser springs, about 2-3" lift)
SDORI 1.5" BJ spacers
Skyjacker hydro7000 shocks
15x8 rims with 3.75" backspacing
33x12.5 m/t's

This is my first 4x4 rig so i had no idea what to do with it when i got it in February so i found this site and basically went with the setup that alot of people recommended. It was cheap, and worked well according to many users of this forum.
there are alot of people that run this width of tires with this exact lift and never mentioned a problem like iam having. All i heard was pound the pinch weld flat! LOL!
Guess i will start cutting next weekend

I second the 32"s. I recently put in a set of 32x11.5x15 BFG AT T/As and I only have the 2" SDORI coil spacer in the rear and they work great. I really need to get some cruiser coils under there though... No me gusta butt sag :(

I have the same lift with 33x12.50s but some with some additions. I have a 1" BL and I have a Marlin rear with much more clearance. I don't think I've ever seen a problem like the one you are having. My recommendation would be to first get the BL but if you're not for that then go for the 32's.

+1 on the body lift.
As I recall I also trimmed the fenders 2in and that seemed so clear up the majority of rubbing issues.

Wow, my 35's tuck inside the fenders on my 1990. Seems like the offset is what's killing you.

Do you have any fitment issues with bumpers after the body lift? i plan to get aftermarket bumpers and would hate for them to look like ass because they were meant for a truck with no body lift.
And i think i will chop the fenders this weekend to gain a bit more clearence, i could care less if i destroy the rest of my stock rear bumper (i already tore the drivers side off that day)

The back bumper is bolted on the body, so it goes up when you throw on the BL.

You just have to mess with the front bumper.

http://www.toyotasurf.asn.au/techsite/bodylift.htm

Just throwin this out there...


Looking at your set up Inoticed you did not mention any sort of panhard drop bracket. When you lift your truck withoutnadjusting the pivot point/or length of the panhard bar your axle is offset to the passenger side. I noticed in your vid its the passenger side thats rubbing. Have look to see how off-center your axle is.

For the front I used the 1" lift bracket that I got with the BL and yea the stock back bumper is connected to the body but the Marlin connects to the frame where a hitch would go. The extra 1" of room the BL gave me between the tailgate and the bumper is nice to have. I was pulling someone out one time before the BL was on and it scraped two notches where the bumper goes under the tailgate. But after the BL I've had no problems.

I just purchased and installed a Roger Brown (4Crawler, on this site) 1" bodylift on my '91 4runner. Simple mod, took me all of 'bout 4 1/2hrs, by myself with taking lots of smoking and coffee breaks. The whole 1" kit with front bumper brackets cost me $105 total. http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/...l#Applications

Before
http://i294.photobucket.com/albums/m.../Before3-1.jpg

After
http://i294.photobucket.com/albums/m...t/After3-1.jpg

I also have 2" coils spring spacers in the rear, from sdori.com.

I couldn't watch the video cause my comps old but i heard it.

I would second the 12.5 issue
I run sdori BJ and ome 900s on my 94 runner. As well i run interco tsl 34 9.5. they measured damn close to 34 tall when i got them. My only issue with rubbing so far is with my front pass side inner fender near the rear there is a bolt that won't stay in so the tire grabs it and spins it forward. I have had the rear as tucked as i think it will go and the tire sits perfectly up there at 20 psi i think it was. The front i haven't gotten anything wild. going out this weekend though.

Second the pan hard extension as well. I think i like the idea of cutting it, welding in a couple threaded bungs and making it adjustable.

Body lift. Summit has their brand for just over 100 $$

I was never really fond of the body lift, what I do like on the Runners is that the gas tank is raised...I really do no like how low mine sits...

The other side is where you will see the gas tank.

Yes, thank you...does the tank not rise with the body though? I thought it was mounted to the body not the frame? I maybe mistaken... It may have been a mod that I had seen, raised take after body lift????

No the tank stays with the frame. But I do think there is a mod to move the tank up, like you said.

Ok Cool, I thought it moved with the body, it was the only reason I was considering a BL...I don't like how low the tank sits...seems like it would be easy to bangup.

Back to the original thread...Turbo may be right here, backspacing...I want to see how bad mine will rub, I'll get it out in the yard tonight. I have a few stumps i can get the wheels on to flex (IFS :hillbill:) out.

The axle is centered fine. the drivers side tire stuffs up in there just the same. I also forgot to mention that i removed the rear swaybar, but that wont make any difference.

I suppose it is the offset of the wheels and the width of the tires causing the issues. Last time i listen to the masses on a forum :pop:

and i do not plan to do a body lift or buy smaller tires. the truck does not need more money put into it to solve this issue. i will cut metal to fix this :banger:

The last thing you need to do is make our trucks more top heavy! lift with tires, not suspension. the key to a really solid trail truck (IMO) is ground clearance, not overall height. some good cutting should take care of your problems.

Good luck

Alex

Yes, a 1" bodylift will raise your center of gravity, 'bout .5%. But since your not going that route, and doing the saws-all thing, you don't to need worry anything 'bout that.

i agree! do what he said! get out the saws-all and have at it.

Alex, did you read the whole thread? Lol. I went the 1" bodylift route. Looks a hellva lot better than cut fenderwells. The OP said he wasn't going to do the bodylift. I agreed that a bodylift does raise the COG, but the 1" lift raise it by only .5%.........lol

Here's a poser from yesterday...
http://i714.photobucket.com/albums/w...py_91/Flx2.jpg

Oops

http://i714.photobucket.com/albums/w...py_91/Flx6.jpg

With the bumper bracket gone, The tires have room to move. I think I'm going to get coils before I wheel her though. Plenty of room in the front, not so much in the back. :shocked: :roll:

fetasgoulash do you have 15x10 in wheels or 15x8s? i couldnt find it anywhere in your posts i may have missed it

15x8 and 3.75" backspacing

hey, freak, accroding to 4crawler, a body lift only raises the COG ~75% of what a suspension lift would... thus making it a better option of mild lift over coils and whatnot, and it makes sense... even tho the body gets higher, your big arse chunk of steel frame is stayin down low...

Makes sense, good to know...

yeah i did read it. I guess i think about what i would do. If i cut the fender wells i would put some kind of flare on to cover up the nasty lookin' edge. really my distain of body lifts comes from the 2-4" body lifts that some trucks have. I will probably end doing a 1" body lift to clear a motor swap. an inch is ok. !

an inch is perfect...but hopefully you don't hear that too often.

Very true. I think thats the 3" lift. It seems to me I read in another post that TC said that a 1" will only raise your COG 'bout .5%. But don't quote me on it, I'm going from what I remember....I could be wrong on the percentage. :D

trim the rear bumper back a bit and open up the wheel wells a bit (looks like you'd just be cutting out the rusted bits anyway)

*edit* didn't see this was already mentioned

good luck finding a decent looking set of fender flares... to the best of my knowledge, only bushwacker makes flares for our 2nd gen runners and hear tell they are kind of cheesy...

I am a composite manufacturer by trade so i will make my own set of flairs with very little effort. I will post pics when said flairs are built.
thanks for all the advise people