cone washers on hub body
 

So I am taking the hubs off of my 86 4cyl. 4x4 and the cone washers on the hub body are being a huge PITA. So my question is. What is the best way to get these out. The hayne's manual says to use a tapered punch and they still wont budge. Is there an easier way to pull these off. If anyone can help it would be appreciated.:bang:

I have a couple of techniques on the web page below:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...eWasherRemoval

I have yet to find a single technique that works on every cone washer, so if one way does not work easily, try another approach.

I have always had luck with tapping the side of the hub body (right where the stud is) with a brass hammer while slightly tugging on the hub.

That or using a small flathead or pick, jam it into the slit in the washer...(I have never done this)

I used a hammer and chisel to loosen them, and then pryed them out with diagonal cutters

i used to 'massage' the hub body but now use the fine tip flat blade screwdriver in the slot of the cone washer. it seems to work well. trying to pry them out with diagonal cutters will only mangle up the mating surface and make them more difficult to extract on subsequent attempts.

lee

I just had this fun two nights ago, spray a little WD or something like it. I actually used engine cleaner, walked for ten minutes, came back and tapped on the side of the hub and they came right out. I used a rubber mallet.

i just use a 4lb mini sledge and smack the sides of the hub body while rotating it and walaa it flies of

I must have been extremely lucky because mine came right off. I put a nut on the stud and lightly tapped it side to side with a small hammer and they popped right off.

Took maybe 10-15 seconds a washer.

yea PB blaster (A Penetrent unlike WD 40) and a tap to the side of the hub right at the one you are trying to take off worked everytime.

just to let you know, if you tap on the side of the hub body with a regular hammer, you WILL bend up and scar the hub body...

UNLESS you cushin the blow with a block of wood; but then that kind of defeats the purpose because it obsorbs the shock of the impact, with is what you need to dislodge the cone-washers in the first place...

but if that doesn't concern you, then by all means, beat the hell out of it :hillbill:


as dntsdad said, putting a nut on the end of the stud helps cause it wont damage the stud itself

my method was to use an old 3/8" drive extention. I held the end that you put a socket on up against the stud, then gave the other end a few good solid hits with the 'ol hammer, and the things popped right out in about 2 or 3 hits. Worked great, but mind you it did deform the extention to where is was no longer useable, but it was an old cheap one made from some soft metal (which was another reason it was good for this; being soft made it like using a brass drift, which is what the FSM says to use)

direct, blunt force applied to the stud will get that thing loose FAR quicker than beating on the side of the hub body though...

and some penetrating oil a day or 2 before definately pays off too :D

good luck!


any sorry about not having that 54mm socket to lend you bro; did you get ahold of one yet?

Tnanks guys. My buddy came over picked up a hammer and tapped the hub body twice and it flew out out. So needles to say everything got done. Oh and don't buy Duralast cv axels. They're crap.

iv tryed it several ways but IMO the best way iv found is to soak em down in PB and then back the nuts off to the end of the stud, take a brass drift and wack the stud, make sure u use brass or something softer then the steel, dont wanna bend or damage the studs.. some may say its the wrong way of doing it but its workd for me.

I just used a small random 3/8"ths extension I had laying around, female end on the stud, hammer to the other end, When It budges out the least bit grab a pair of pliers and pull, If that doesnt get it try jamming a screwdriver in the slit...If that still doesnt work, well, Repeat step one...:dj:

the trick that i've used on mine and my buddies hubs,this seems to do the trick all the time, losen the nut all the way to the end of the stud, so to make a falt surface at the end. grab a peice of steel hold it against the stud and beat it with a hammer...move to the oposite stud and do the same...repeat this in a rotating pattern( like a torque pattern). go around the whole hub after in a circle doing the same... then check and see if any lossened up and remove them...for the ones that are really stuck you might have to use a 3lb hand sledge...good luck:banger:

it seems as everyone has their own technique for this...

best idea is to try each out and see which works the best for you; you've got 12 of them to get out, I think you can try each idea at least once :hillbill:

PB Blaster. Soak them down.
Brass Drift. Used to cushion the blow between studs or manual hub body and the latter.
BFH.

Remove nuts/washers. Tap studs with BFH with brass drift used in between to cushion the blow. Repeat around the circle several times. Tap the sides the hub body with BFH using the brass drift. All it takes it getting ONE loose and rest will loosen up with persistence. There is never any need to beat on the hub body or studs hard enough to damage them yet I get manual hubs in all the time where morons have done it this way.

A small bladed screwdriver or two can help you to get the cone washers off once they are loose.

:guitar:

You know I dont see anyone do this but, there is a slit that stops the completion of the circle of the washer itself if you seperate it with a small screwdriver they come out everytime the only hard part is if the slit is facing inward toward the hub. This has worked for me everytime no matter how stuck.

If you read the web page I posted earlier, you'll see this technique described in detail and is the one I mainly use. Works well if the washer is stuck due to other than just locked in tight, for example if there is a small burr on the stud or washer or if the washer is somewhat deformed as I have seen a few times.

I hit the hub body with a framing hammer. It dented the outside, but didn't to any damage. I think I will use a different method from now on though.

Wow I am new here and been trying to get the Cone Washers out for about 1-1/2 to 4 hr. I find nothing good at all. Someone has already tryed to get them out and beat them to death. I will give it another shot tomorrow.

Scroll down through that thread and see how I did it. That method worked but it was a PITA.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...ctures-158106/

brass hammer and go to town on them.

And you posted a very long sticky on all the different ways people on here use profanity. :)


Penetratining oil, brass dift, steel fine point awl, and hammer.

Cone Washers
 

Wow I am going to try this. Look hard but a lot easier than the way I was doing it. And I never got any where!! lol I am rebuilding the whole truck. I have every part to complete it except the clutch. Not made up my mind on that yet. I know it has to hold up to 33's.
1980 Yota
4X4
4" lift
33x12.50x15
20R

Put a brass drift on the end of the stud and hit it with a hammer. Works every time.

I got them off. Thanks for all the information and help. I used an air chisel. They popped right off. I had to replace two because the previous owner beat them so bad. I don't think the wheel bearing ever been packed on the Lil yota. But thanks to all...
Michael
1980 Yoda
4X4
20R
4" lift
33x12.50.15

I tried this, and all the tricks posted in this thread, and only got one off, and that was by double nutting the stud, and backing it out...

for the rest, I conceded defeat, and ordered new stud/cone washer kits for all. Welded a nut onto the studs, and backed them out that way.... :welder:

Man you got some money them cone washers are high price!!! All you had to do is use an air chisel with the pointed chisel. Put the nut on just a little bit. After that place the point of the chisel on the end of the stud. Then give it the air. Mine popped right off! Michael

I have done this many times since my thread and the technique I used.
The best and most effective way is then one Wabbit describes above! :bigok: