Bleeding the clutch
 

I apologize if this is a stupid question or has been covered before. I searched here and I used the FSM, which appears to be incorrect in its diagrams.

According to the FSM, there's supposed to be a bleeder plug on the clutch release cylinder. I couldn't find a bleeder plug that looks like the images in the FSM or Haynes manual. Here are a few pictures of my master cylinder:

Attachment 185144

Bolt on the bottom of the master cylinder:
Attachment 185145

And here's the slave cylinder:
Attachment 185146

I loosened the bolt on the bottom of the master cylinder because I couldn't find a "bleed plug" as described. Then I had a friend pump the clutch a few times with the bolt loosened, making sure to tighten it up after each full extension, then loosen, then tighten, etc. It made a noticeable difference after draining approximately 1/4 of the reservoir. My clutch was still a little bit mushy, but far improved.

The question is, do I use this bolt as the "bleed plug", or is there an actual nipple that I can hook a hose up to on either the master/slave cylinders, and if so, where is that located?

Thanks for your help.

The bleeder plug is on the slave which is on the side of the transmission. There are two master cylinders, one brake, and one clutch. The smaller one is the clutch, and if you follow that line it should lead you right to the clutch slave.

The first two pics you posted are the brake master cylinder. The third one is the clutch master cylinder. Like turboboost said, the clutch slave cylinder is on the side of the transmission, specifically on the side of the bell housing and you can find it by following the steel line from the clutch master cylinder.

Passenger side of the transmission, in fact. Look for the clutch release fork sticking out of the bellhousing. It has a rubber boot. The clutch slave cylinder engages that.

I don't know exactly how your clutch improved after you messed with the brake master cylinder considering they are not connected in any way, shape, or form to each other. Hydraulic pressure build up in the same way you'd pump the brakes when there is air in the lines, is all I can figure. I will say if your brake fluid (in the brake master cylinder) looks dark (because it kinda does in the pic), you might consider flushing your brake system. That means there is gunk also throughout the lines, calipers, wheel cylinders, and proportioning valve. Typically, this should atleast be done once a year depending on enviroment and driving conditions. Moisture builds up in the system and corrosion begins to occur..........hence the darkening of the fluid.

Thanks to all three of you -- I love Yotatech because it has a true humbling effect. This is my first manual car (and also truck) so I didn't think about multiple cylinders in different locations. I'm going to make sure I re-read the manual the next time I post something up here. :roll:

I have no idea either -- but I'm pretty sure it's not imagined. I'd be willing to accept that I'm making it up, though.

Yes, the fluid is pretty dark in there. It's about the color of maple syrup. I'll bleed the brake fluid as well while I'm at it. Thanks for the help!!

Watch out with that brake fluid too.. it will remove the paint off of anything..

[ yes, I learned this the hard way one time :( ]

......and apparently gasoline dissolves asphalt.

I figured I should resolve this thread. I was able to successfully bleed the clutch the other night with the help of a friend, this time in the right location. :) The fluid was dark green, so flushed it all out and replaced it with some new synthetic DOT 3. Got rid of all the bubbles. Did 4 or 5 more cycles after bubbles stopped coming out, so I assume the system was bled successfully. Might have been overkill, but I wanted to do it right!! The clutch definitely feels much better now -- it is fully disengaging.

Only one issue remains: there is still some notchiness in shifting from 1st --> 2nd, and a little bit from 2nd --> 3rd. It's difficult to downshift while moving above 5mph from 2nd --> 1st, I have to practically force the stick to do that. Would that be the synchros?

This is my ghetto drain job using some spare high pressure hose and a paint mixing cup:
Attachment 185147

When I had "clutch trouble" with mine, I thought the mastercylinder was shot so replaced it. Still trouble. Thought maybe clutch pedal shaft bushings were shot replaced them. Still clutch trouble. Thought maybe transmission trouble too...difficult shifting and popped out of gear acouple time. Not llooking forward to transmission work: doing it or paying for it.

Two problems existed: The clutch pedal bracket was shot...cracked/torn and flexing big time. The bushing(s) where the shift lever goes into the trans was shot. Both were fixed and no more "clutch trouble". Both known and frequent causes of trouble. Found the info here when I searched.

Still a little "notchy" shifting gears...solution: take time shifting and/or double-clutch. Good luck...

This a common question that's been covered a lot on this forum. Chances are great it's either just the shifter seat bushing and/or you need a different type of tranny gear lube. Search "shifter seat" and "MT-90". I had the same problem (as has many) as you and changed the bushing and went to MT-90. Ne'er a problem after.

I have the same "notchy" shifting problem. Changed my gear oil to MT-90 and changed my shifter seat and bushing, and it's still just as notchy, mostly from 1st to 2nd, and tought to get into 1st.

May just be how this tranny is. The R150? I am gonna fully flush and bleed my clutch system also, maybe that is the issue. Clutch bracket is fine.

It could also be the clutch adjustments under the dash. There's a pushrod and clevis (attaches to the pedal) under the dash and lengthening that will cause the clutch release arm (on the trans) to travel farther and consequently should cause the clutch to release more allowing the synchros to work better. Be careful with adjusting it though- too much length and you might get the clutch slipping.

Good point. The pedal travel/height is supposed to be a little over 6"s.....somewhere around there. It's in the FSM, though. When I'd installed a new clutch MC a while back, nothing would work right, of course, until I got the adjustment correct.

Thanks for the help guys. I'll be replacing the shifter seat bushing from Marlin Crawler, since it appears everyone likes his kit. The only question is: how can I determine the type of transmission I have, on the transmission itself (as opposed to the door jamb sticker)? Is it imprinted somewhere? Mine is really dirty so I couldn't see anything the other night.