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86 4Runner issues
So I’m at a complete loss with my Toyota , it’s been wonderful until now . I have a 1986 Toyota 4Runner DLX all original except some aftermarket rims with 301,000 miles , this thing has never given me a issue until now . 1. I got my oil changed today and they said I was quite low on oil , I realized two days ago that when I turned around a sharp curve my oil light would flick on for a second then turn off . So what could I do to prolong the life of my motor (yes I know I have a high mile motor but it’s not time to rebuild as I still have plenty of power .) 2. At full lock when putting the truck in first to pull off from a stop sign there’s a large pop in my front end somewhere (I replaced inner/outer tie rods and Pittman arm 3 months ago) Other Questions : a) does anyone else have this many miles on their Toyota ? If so what’s the longest road trip you’ve ever taken ? I’ve driven it 158 every weekend for some time now . I’d like to take it to the coast about 6 hours away . b) has anyone ever taken the entire A/C system out of a donor truck and put it into theirs ? I’m talking ; condenser , evap core , compressor and both hoses going into the firewall (previous owner cut the thick hoses out completely) . c) I daily drive this truck about 15mile round trip and she’s a pavement princess , but I have a entire donor truck that’s complete it just had mice eat all the wires on everything ; so I have a perfectly good straight axle and I’m debating on Sas’ing my 4 runner I’m just wondering if I’d regret it because I drive it every single day , all input is helpful |
Number one thing to prolong motor is to maintain the oil level. Is it leaking out burning all that oil?
As for the front end pop, I'd suspect your CV axles. |
I’ll check the axles today , but It’s burning that much oil between oil changes . I put 10w30 in it every time and I’m not exactly sure how to get it to stop burning oil . Thanks for the help I’ll update this in a few hours ! |
Shafts shouldn't bind in a turn, check the turn stops are still there and if they have cushion attached still while you're there check the shafts are firm also.
You should definitely be checking the oil level on a regular basis, daily weekly or monthly depending on how fast you determine it to be burning or leaking. There is a dipstick there for a reason and its not for the guy changing the oil. |
you say it's burning oil, but is it actually? do you see smoke coming out of the tailpipe? perhaps it's just a main seal leaking badly
willing to bet the popping sound is none other than the common ol' turn stop...like Co 94 PU mentioned. if it only pops in hard turns wherein your steering is maxed, then you know that's it. oh, i can't comment really on the a/c dilemma. i never had one in either of my 4runners. |
Well it only does it at full lock when turning , but about the oil , it does smoke when I crank it up but after letting the motor warm up it doesn’t , I park on a fresh slab on concrete every day all day and there are no spots where I park so it has to be burning it . I realize that it may have been burning oil for awhile but for it to burn almost all the oil in a 4 month period between my oil changes is a little freaky, I drive my Toyota anywhere and I’d trust it to take me anywhere so I’d like to fix any potential problems with it while I still have the option or before I just get too deep into it .
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sounds like the steering stops, then! as suggested, check for the bushings/caps/cushions. they're usually long gone by the time you start hearing that wretched noise. get some new ones or fab your own and grease them
smoke on start up is the usual indicator of leaking valve seals. after sitting for a period, oil in the cylinder head has leaked past the seals and into the cylinders. so, when you fire it up and let it run, that oil burns off fairly quickly. otoh, if your piston rings were leaking, you'd have burning oil/smoke all the while you drive. tends to foul spark plugs and the pcv system where i you, i'd definitely have a valve job done. but, i'd also run a leak down test to get a clear indication of the overall health of the motor and see where you actually need to go since you'll need to pull the head to service it. yes, you have plenty of power, but this is one of those "nice to know" moments because you can address anything before it becomes a problem. fyi, i did meet a woman years ago at the farmer's feed store driving a mid 80's 22re 4x4 pick up. she had over 400k on it with no major engine work done save the regular timing chain replacements and valve adjustments. iow's, if you've maintained it well, you're probably in good shape and can just get some valve seals. well, obviously a head gasket, too. and, i suppose look at the timing chain....since that'll all be apart. anyway, you get the picture |
Originally Posted by Justin662
(Post 52408722)
Well it only does it at full lock when turning , but about the oil , it does smoke when I crank it up but after letting the motor warm up it doesn’t , I park on a fresh slab on concrete every day all day and there are no spots where I park so it has to be burning it . I realize that it may have been burning oil for awhile but for it to burn almost all the oil in a 4 month period between my oil changes is a little freaky, I drive my Toyota anywhere and I’d trust it to take me anywhere so I’d like to fix any potential problems with it while I still have the option or before I just get too deep into it .
The idiot light will start coming on around two maybe three quarts low.. Dump a fresh quart in when it shows near low on the dipstick and keep driving it. Most likely it's the valve guides that are worn down, they will puddle in the chamber and give a burst of smoke on start up. There isn't anything you can do with the engine assembled, the head has to come off be disassembled and new guides pressed in. If you had AC before at some point adding the donor parts is mostly trivial. If you didn't have AC before its still doable just more work. There should be atleast one thread here about this task, wether it was a good detailed walk through I don't recall. It's just a matter of putting it all in and wiring it up since its just an accessory it's a self contained system mostly. Dont forget the idle up valve and all that dohickery. Better to be burning quarts of oil than spewing it over the engine bay :D PS. Yes lots of high mile Toyotas. Some still all original. And I routinely drive mine for eight hour stints. |
I appreciate everyone’s advice and I’ll definitely be taking it to a shop here shortly to have it looked at . It’s amazing the amount of attention to detail you guys have when helping out or commenting on a post , it’s appreciested more than you guys know ! Big shout out to everyone for the help & an eight how trip in a 22re goodness I’ve only taken mine on a 2 hour trip! I might be looking at a trip from north Mississippi to west Texas here in a few months to get on a pipeline crew and if that happens I will sure enough need to pick up a few spare parts to kee with me . I haven’t been able to find a picture of what the “steering stoppers” look like so if anyone has a picture or could take one that would be great ! |
Originally Posted by Justin662
(Post 52408495)
I’ll check the axles today , but It’s burning that much oil between oil changes . I put 10w30 in it every time and I’m not exactly sure how to get it to stop burning oil . Thanks for the help I’ll update this in a few hours ! Only serial car killers don't look at oil levels between oil changes. The mining company I worked for considered it a firing offence to start up any machine without thorough examination first. No mercy. Pipeline crew, eh??? I'm not sure that you're gonna be a good hand. Maybe you can learn. |
For a photo see post #40 of my thread
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...3/index18.html Upper right corner. It's a black plastic cap that covers the steering stop. |
the steering popping is annoying, you can throw axle grease on the stops and quiet the pop down but Marlin has the little plastic caps for a few dollars.
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Originally Posted by keycw
(Post 52408793)
the steering popping is annoying, you can throw axle grease on the stops and quiet the pop down but Marlin has the little plastic caps for a few dollars.
https://www.marlincrawler.com/steeri...ering-stop-cap |
Get a helper... preferably someone that's done this before... to keep the truck running...
get one of the vacuum hoses off the intake and put it in a can of sea foam so it can suck it out of the bottle.... you can use diesel .... this can remove deposits from valves and get them seated again.... it's a pretty smoky affair but that's a sign your getting it done |
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