3VZE running out of round
 

Hi!

As dicussed in the thread Check engine lamp always flashing!? I've got some problem on bringing my 3VZ-E up and running. In the other thread you can find some pictures too. As the problem seems to be not an electric issue let me start this new thread. Here the short story:

After doing a engine swap from the stock 4cyl to the 3L V6 3VZ-E on my PickUp I've got some problems to get the 3VZ-E running. The 3VZ-E was running very silent and smooth on my donor vehicle before the engine swap. It came out of a 1990 4Runner and I placed it into my 1990 Hilux. The swap took all in all nearly four years because of my very limited spare time. During the work I replaced the timing belt and cleaned the water pump and all the unmounted parts. Another modification took place on the oil pan to prevent a hit of the oil pan with the SFA and the mount of NWOR 3L-V6 headers. This is all done now and I put all the components together. This is beside the technical parts the wiring harness in the engine bay and the wiring harness behind the dashboard together with the whole dashboard out of the 4Runner. There are some connectors not used now because of the SFA in my truck. These unused connectors are located on the right front fender near the fuse box. I think or hope that this is not a problem. Actually the whole wiring going to back of the truck is not mounted except the wiring to the fuel pump and the fuel level meter.

But my main problem is, that the engine is not right running. Let me explain what happens. If I start the engine it is running only if I push the throttle a little bit. During this it is not important how much I push the throttle, rpm is not changing. The engine runs totally out of round. With releasing throttle the engine stops. The ignition itself seems to work because all six tubes of the headers are hot. After this I check the TPS but it seems to work properly. I did this check directly on the connectors to the ECU and so I think it is not a wiring problem with the TPS. The AFM seems to work too because if I remove the plug on the AFM box, I receive the following error codes:

• 24 - Which means:
  INTAKE AIR TEMPERATURE SENSOR SIGNAL
  --OPEN OR SHORT IN INTAKE AIR TEMP. SIGNAL
  --INTAKE AIR TEMPERATURE CIRCUIT
  --INTAKE AIR TEMPERATURE SENSOR
  --ECU
  
• 31 - Which means:
  MANIFOLD AND/OR AIRFLOW METER SENSOR SIGNAL CIRCUIT
  --AIRFLOW METER/CIRCUIT
  --MANIFOLD PRESSURE SENSOR/CIRCUIT
  --ECU

After reconnecting VAFM, unplug EFI fuse for 15 seconds, insert EFI fuse and turning ignition on, the check engine lamp is flashing continously which tells me, that there are no elctrical problems left.

I've checked for possible vacuum leaks too but between AFM and Intake is everything right. After this I've removed the timing belt cover to check the timing belt once again. This is a new belt and it was never running. Here some pictures.

Left camshaft:
http://www.hiluxumbau.de/pics/motord...1749_small.jpg

Right camshaft:
http://www.hiluxumbau.de/pics/motord...1750_small.jpg

Crank:
http://www.hiluxumbau.de/pics/motord...1752_small.jpg

I think the index marks are in place as they should be. Right? Actually I don't know in which direction the text on the belt should be read: Driving direction or as staying in front of the engine. But this maybe irrelevant because of the index marks on the camshaft wheels and the crank.

http://www.hiluxumbau.de/pics/motord...1753_small.jpg

What can I do now, where can I search for the reason for this behaviour? Any ideas? What about the ignition distributor? Is there a mark or something else too?

try turning the distributor while the motor is running one way or the other to see if that helps.

It appears no one has directed you at the online FSM. It will tell you about checking your timing and help you verify that your setup is correct. By the way, the timing belt may be backwards, but how it could matter is beyond me.

Here:http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-buchanan/93fsm

Hi MudHippy

What the hell! That page contains exactly what I did not found on the web. Maybe I used the wrong search phrases...

Thank you very much for the link.

an idea
 

I am rebuilding my 3vze and when I took the pistons out they were marked left and right according to the drivers position. That is, they were marked from behind the engine's point of view. This would only make since that they were to have stayed consistant with this and done the same for the timing belt.
Hope that helps.

Hi there.

At first let me tell you the good news! My 3VZ-E is working! Yeah you've read right. My engine is running now.

The solution was the page with the manuals which told me MudHippy. After reading a lot there I found the part for the ignition distributor. So I unmount it and during smooth pull out I've seen that it was one cog clockwise wrong. After installing the distributor with the right installation description the engine runs after the first turn of the key.

Today is my birthday and this is my very own birthday present. Yeah I'm very happy now!

Once again thx a lot for your help.

glad to hear its running

Geez'm'peez, Starwars....I took it for granted you knew of the FSM or atleast of timing setting procedure as so described. Why? Not sure, but I'm happy for you to have solved your frustrating problem.

Like TN said, it doesn't matter if the marks on the belt line up.

Wow, yeah, timing...it would certainly create that problem. Happy Birthday!