22re Failed Smog 3x Worse Gross Polluter After Rebuild. HELP!
 

1993 22re Toyota W/ New Engine Rebuild.
Truck runs great and drives well.
No noticeable misfires or backfiring on deceleration.
Took it to go get smogged and it failed CRAZY bad in all the numbers. Photos to be attached of smog numbers.

Did some testing--

and with my analog multimeter, I found no resistance in the VAFM where it is supposed to change as you open and close the air meter door. There was ZERO change. Which makes me think that the VAFM is bad, but I am wondering could that be causing it to run so pig rich?! Could that be the whole reason I am failing smog with SUPER rich numbers?

Any help appreciated. Thanks

In the photo I show the terminals where I am getting no resistance and nothing changes when I open and close the door on the MAF (VAF).

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...0d8b5503c.jpeg
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...9e2a907b0.jpeg

I had to look it up just to be clear it immediately jumps to a CLOSED circuit when I connect the two leads to the VAF shown in photo (with attention paid that they are not shorter anywhere). It does NOT change when moving the door inside the VAF either. Pretty sure this is pretty clear the VAF is bad, and I should get a replacement. Just wondering how optimistic I should be that this would be causing such crazy numbers.

I also do not know how truck ran before rebuild. It already had blown headgasket and my friend did the rebuild (he bought long block at a good machinist shop).

I'd say pretty optimistic... without the MAF working the ECU can't do it's job either... they're a team.
1st your TPS (throttle position sensor)
must be set correctly see the LCEngineering web site for detailed instructions
2nd your MAF must be working
3rd your timing has to be correct once again see the LCEngineering web site for detailed instructions on setting your timing...
4th the O2 sensor should be inspected and replaced if it's not working
5th check grounds
6th check connections
7th vacuum leaks

Ok thanks. just an expensive part to be replacing, anyone ever rebuild one? or take on apart? I figure it is a closed circuit where there should be resistance might not be too hard to spot a short or something?

I have the oem one off my turbo 87 left from upgrading to the 82 Supra one... it worked fine... you can have it if you'll pay for shipping it...

I would really appreciate it. Sending you a PM now.

Ready to ship tomorrow
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...d40a0347db.jpg

Sweet! yeah let me know how much asap i want to be sure you feel motivated to get it out

lol... no problem I'll get it out, i know what it's like needing or wanting parts...

lol... no problem I'll get it out, i know what it's like needing or wanting parts... I'd do it today but we're rural and the roads are covered with ice...

Trouble Shooting Chart

http://htftp.offroadsz.com/marinhake.../5idleando.pdf

Don't know if anybody else noticed this in the picture posted.

It looks like to me the right side alligator probe is not making full contact with the pin being tested.

I recently tested those 2 contacts in the picture you posted and it read within specs correctly when door is closed, but did not increase resistance relative to door as it is being opened. Meter just jumped around up and down, and even showed infinity for a second at some points. Is this normal?