another 22re turns but won't start.
 

i've been hi jacking other threads with my problems & feel kinda bad, so I'm starting my own thread here.

problem:
85 22re ran like a clock & one day out of the blue just wouldn't fire. my CO relay used to click really loud when starting the truck but now its quite. i have done resistance test & relay checks out. engine isn't throwing any codes. i can use the jump conector & hear the fuel pump running but truck still won't fire. lots of spark at plugs. changed the efi relay & efi fuse. also changed out fuel filter. emptied fuel tank & replaced with fresh gas. can keep the truck running with ether, which leads me to believe that injector problem.....but why has my CO relay stopped clicking?

sounds like a lot of guys on here have some good trouble shooting tips.............fire away. thx

Does it act like it wants to start?

I had that same problem on my 86 4Runner (22RE), one day it was fine and the next day it wouldn`t start, i checked everything i could think of and could find nothing wrong. If i sprayed some carb cleaner into the intake it would start and then die out in about 30 seconds. I had some spare parts laying around so i started swapping a few thing out and when i swapped out the solenoid resistor it started up on the first try. The solenoid resistor has something to do with the electrical circuit of injectors going to the computer, so if your 85 has a solenoid resistor check it out. I was lucky enough to have a spare one laying around, i have no idea what a new one would cost.

wants to go. strong battery, good cranking amps. just won't catch.

i have a whole extra intake w/ wiring harnness, ECU, & resistor. i have tried the ECU with same results, won't start & don't hear my CO relay clicking. i do have extra solenoid resistor, didn't think of trying it....will try that out & post back. thx

swapped out resistor & still no go. No clicking coming from the relay either.

so when i jump the fuel pump @ the jump connector under the hood, does this bypass the CO relay? in theory if my relay was toast, this jumping should bypass it?

Fuel pump test jumper does not bypass the relay on the earlier 22REs, it only makes the relay turn on with the ignition:

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...shtml#FuelPump

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...s/FuelPump.gif

Jumping the +B - Fp terminals in the CO relay socket will send power to fuel pump for testing wiring:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...ORelayLocation

i guess next step is testing wires that lead into CO relay? i have 2 relays & both test good on resistance, but neither "click" or help my truck start.
i also just checked the engine grounds -tight secure & clean.

wondering what else i should look for/at?

Well, you need to get power to the CO relay to make it turn on. So if that is not happening, figure out why (bad socket, bad wiring or something else wrong upstream from the socket). And then once that relay turns on, you need to get power to the fuel pump, so bad wiring or connectors between the relay and the pump). And you can manually test the CO relay by applying power to the STA - E1 terminals and you may be able to feel it click on and off and when on, do a resistance test on the +B - Fp terminals, should be 0 ohms. Maybe you have "quiet" relays that make no audible click when turned on.

There are only a couple things that will will cause this no start issue.

A faulty cold start injector... Not as likely as the next problem.

COLD START TIME SWITCH.


The individual injectors do not have the volume capability to compensate for a faulty cold start circuit.

Check your cold start time switch. A very common 22re issue.

Check the EFI fuse behind the driver side kick panel, my 4Runner wouldn`t start one day and when i started checking the fuses the EFI fuse was corroded, i replaced the fuse and she fired right up.

changed the efi relay & efi fuse.

i got no power to CO relay..........will start working backwards from that.

alright correction, i have some power to the CO relay. the STA imput has nothing when cranking. I was able to jump truck by running wire direct from battery to relay -STA port. so if i'm not mistaken the STA line comes in from the ECU? it apperas the ECU isn't sending proper signal to start truck. ECU not throwing any codes though & have even swapped in another ECU. what should i try next? thx

Yep, STA comes from the ECU in response to the key in the START position. There are connectors and wires between the ECU and the CO relay, any of which could be bad. Test by measuring the voltage at the ECU/STA pin and compare that to the voltage at the CO relay. But, with the fuel pump test jumper in place, the main coil in the CO relay should be pulling it in (CO relay has 2 coils, one for the STA signal and the other for the AFM/fuel pump signal (or the test jumper).

So the troubleshooting strategy is sort of a "divide and conquer" method. Find where the signal is good and where it is bad in a given circuit. Then the problem must lie some place in between, so test at some intermediate point and see if the signal there is good or bad and repeat the test.

Did you check the ignition switch and ignition fuse ?.

[quote=4Crawler;51536252]Yep, STA comes from the ECU in response to the key in the START position. There are connectors and wires between the ECU and the CO relay, any of which could be bad. Test by measuring the voltage at the ECU/STA pin and compare that to the voltage at the CO relay. But, with the fuel pump test jumper in place, the main coil in the CO relay should be pulling it in (CO relay has 2 coils, one for the STA signal and the other for the AFM/fuel pump signal (or the test jumper).

I'm pretty sure this is were the problem lies. I have run a jumper wire from my battery to the STA pin on the CO relay-the relay clicks & truck starts, then stops. i need to do some voltage testing between the ECU & CO relay. i know i have seen a diagram of the back of a 22re ECU -it shows what each pins function. this would be helpful if someone could post it up.

What sort of voltage should i be reading at ECU & CO relay STA pins?

thx

ECU pinout:
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...roubleshooting

Should see enough voltage to turn the relay on, ideally 12 volts, but relays usually work down to 9 volts or a little less.

Or just leave the FP test jumper installed, I did that for a few years on my '85 w/o any problems.

I have 12V at ECU STA pin when plug is not in. I lose voltage at STA pin when i put the plug (10pin) back into the ECU.

I have run a jump wire direct from STA pin on relay to STA pin on ECU. When the plug is in the ECU, the STA is still dead. When I remove the plug I read 12V.

make any sense? why is the ECU STA pin losing power when i put the plug in?

Thanks

One explanation is that with it unplugged, you have an open circuit on that line, i.e. no current load on the signal and thus get full voltage. Plug it in and the voltage drops means the pin can't supply the needed current. Might be the ECU can't supply the relay coil power (about 0.1 amps) or there may be a short on that wire that is killing the signal.

I have run a jump wire from the ECU STA pin direct to the CO relay STA pin, bypassing the plug wire incase there is a short somewhere. but as soon as I connect the two I lose 12V.
Should I be maintaining 12V when the 2 (ECU & CO realy)are connected? when cranking the engige should it still be 12V?
it definatley seems like something is shorting out but not sure where to turn my search now.

Well, you would need to identify the source of the problem. So try testing resistance between the two points and to ground. Should have 0 ohms between the two points and infinite resistance to ground or any of the other CO relay connector pins. If that is OK, it may be a poor connection at the ECU or as noted earlier, maybe the ECU STA pin output is weak.

Fallback is to just put in the FP test jumper and forget the secondary STA winding in the CO relay. I ran my truck for years like that until my starting issue just mysteriously fixed itself.

Fallback is to just put in the FP test jumper and forget the secondary STA winding in the CO relay. I ran my truck for years like that until my starting issue just mysteriously fixed itself.[/quote]


it appears I have bigger issues then. I jump my fuel pump (FP test jumper) and truck still won't start. lots of spark & lots of fuel. my ECU still doesn't throw any codes. I guess I'll check compression but that seems unlikely as only about 50,000 on rebuild.
Coldstart injector? Air Flow Meter? or TPS? are these issues that could be related? wouldn't my ECU throw these codes though?

I really appreciate your help.......gotta beat this thing, get it running & really beat it:)

Well if you are getting fuel, then the fuel pump and CO relay are working (with the test jumper), so it is not that. Figure out what else is wrong, FSM has page after page of troubleshooting steps. And when testing things, assume every part you look at is bad until you prove to yourself it is OK. Try unplugging the TPS and see if the ECU throws a code. If there are somewhat normal readings from those sensors, ECU will not throw a code, only does it for open/short circuits in those lines. And try swapping ECUs if you have (or can find) a spare.

Just talked to one guy the other day who initially reported he had loss of power and yet everything (including TPS) tested OK. Then I ask it timing was set (yes) and did it change with test jumper install (no), then he reports back that he had "strange" readings when he tested the TPS (although he said it was OK in the initial e-mail) and when he replaced/readjusted it, now all was fine.

I un-plugged both TPS & AFM. had some codes thrown pertaining to both. I plugged them both back in & now getting code 6. Igniter/coil/distributor/ECU. will go through these tests & report back.

I have seen a bad TPS cause a truck not to start.

so i swapped in a different ECU & no codes now but it still won't start & I'm not hearing my CO relay click. I've got my FP tester in to bypass the relay & I'm going to change the TPS & AFM cause i have extra parts lying around. Any other suggestions?

even though i have good spark on all 4 plugs, should i consider changing cap/rotor/distributor?

Well, figure out why the CO relay is not clicking. It might just be quiet and not make a loud click, or there might be a power or ground issue preventing it from turning on.

it is/was a loud relay. i can make it click by running a jumper from battery-resistance checks out.

Anyway i have no signal from STA pin when cranking.

Does the 12V come from the ECU & go to the CO Relay or vise versa?
When the ECU is unplugged i read 12V at the ECU STA pin and CO relay STA pin is solid ground? is this correct or should relay STA provide power?
As soon as i plug the STA back into the ECU i loose the 12V

From the FSM:

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...s/FuelPump.gif

You can see the aux. CO relay coil hard wired to ground on one side and powered by "ECU STA" signal on the other side. One would make the assumption that the ECU supplies 12 volt power to the CO relay coil to turn it on while starting. And with that hard ground connection, the aux. coil (STA-E1) should measure ~25 ohms, so by "solid ground" you mean well less than 25 ohms, then there must be a CO relay issue or a problem in the socket wiring:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...ORelayLocation

4crawler,

i really appreciate your paitience. this electronic stuff is new to me.

alright let me wrap my head around this.....

The CO relay is measuring 20ohms between STA & E1

I get 12V from the ECU STA pin but as soon as i plug in the wire that connects to the CO relay STA terminal i loose voltage. where does the E1 wire go? should it be a ground?

if the fuel pump switch in the AFM was shot.....would that keep the truck from starting?

Well, then measure the resistance from the ECU STA connector pin to ground. If you see the same 20 ohms as the CO STA-E1 coil resistance, then the wiring is OK, but if you see less resistance there, you have a short someplace between the ECU connector and the CO relay socket.


Look at the diagram, see that thing below "E1", that is a ground connection.

If the STA-E1 winding does not pull in and turn on the relay, then it is up to the AFM Fc contact to do so (or else the FP test jumper). And if neither one work, then no CO relay and no power to the fuel pump.

hi im confussed i have 85 22re just redone the head and timming chain to specs. will spin over but wont run timing is right i have spark i have fuel to the rail pressure tested and have 38psi to the rail but no fuel to the cylinders ive checked fuses relays ecu unit all grounds are good i must be forgetting something please help confussed lol

Might check the injector wiring:

http://www.4crawler.com/Photos/Misc/...Wiring22RE.jpg

http://www.4crawler.com/Photos/Misc/...ctorSplice.jpg

hi im confussed i have 85 22re just redone the head and timming chain to specs. will spin over but wont run timing is right i have spark i have fuel to the rail pressure tested and have 38psi to the rail but no fuel to the cylinders ive checked fuses relays ecu unit all grounds are good i must be forgetting something please help confussed lol

:facepalm:hi im confussed i have 85 22re just redone the head and timming chain to specs. will spin over but wont run timing is right i have spark i have fuel to the rail pressure tested and have 38psi to the rail but no fuel to the cylinders ive checked fuses relays ecu unit all grounds are good i must be forgetting something please help confussed lol

hey just put in a new ignition switch in the truck started went back out to start the truck will spin over and act like it wants to start but wont can anybody tell me which wires on the switch to check with a volt meter confussed again or just bypass the switch and put a push botton in HELP

similar Problem
 

I have a 1991 Toyota Pick up. Ran for three weeks after I bought it. Then got harder to start. I put a new fuel pump and filter in. Can poor fuel in the throttle body and runs until fuel runs out. Don't here the fuel pump. I got to looking around and found the 15 amp efi fuse blown and replace it. It is now blown again. After sitting a long while it did try to start on it's own for just a second and then went back to just turning over and over. Would like some help as well on why the fuse keeps blowing and what to do. Thanks and sure like the knowledge base on this site. I'm not a mechanic and need all the help I can get. JR

Common source or EFI fuse problems is a shorted O2 sensor wire, wire falls against hot exhaust, insulation melts, wires touch, fuse -> poof.

For fuel pump, see below:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...shtml#FuelPump

to change a EFI to carb. i have to change the intake dist. fuel pump,is there anything else thanks fot the help