another 22re turns but won't start.
i've been hi jacking other threads with my problems & feel kinda bad, so I'm starting my own thread here.
problem: 85 22re ran like a clock & one day out of the blue just wouldn't fire. my CO relay used to click really loud when starting the truck but now its quite. i have done resistance test & relay checks out. engine isn't throwing any codes. i can use the jump conector & hear the fuel pump running but truck still won't fire. lots of spark at plugs. changed the efi relay & efi fuse. also changed out fuel filter. emptied fuel tank & replaced with fresh gas. can keep the truck running with ether, which leads me to believe that injector problem.....but why has my CO relay stopped clicking? sounds like a lot of guys on here have some good trouble shooting tips.............fire away. thx |
Does it act like it wants to start?
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Originally Posted by Island Wayne
(Post 51535061)
i've been hi jacking other threads with my problems & feel kinda bad, so I'm starting my own thread here.
problem: 85 22re ran like a clock & one day out of the blue just wouldn't fire. my CO relay used to click really loud when starting the truck but now its quite. i have done resistance test & relay checks out. engine isn't throwing any codes. i can use the jump conector & hear the fuel pump running but truck still won't fire. lots of spark at plugs. changed the efi relay & efi fuse. also changed out fuel filter. emptied fuel tank & replaced with fresh gas. can keep the truck running with ether, which leads me to believe that injector problem.....but why has my CO relay stopped clicking? sounds like a lot of guys on here have some good trouble shooting tips.............fire away. thx I had that same problem on my 86 4Runner (22RE), one day it was fine and the next day it wouldn`t start, i checked everything i could think of and could find nothing wrong. If i sprayed some carb cleaner into the intake it would start and then die out in about 30 seconds. I had some spare parts laying around so i started swapping a few thing out and when i swapped out the solenoid resistor it started up on the first try. The solenoid resistor has something to do with the electrical circuit of injectors going to the computer, so if your 85 has a solenoid resistor check it out. I was lucky enough to have a spare one laying around, i have no idea what a new one would cost. |
Originally Posted by Exiledbikr
(Post 51535069)
Does it act like it wants to start?
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Originally Posted by myyota
(Post 51535081)
I had that same problem on my 86 4Runner (22RE), one day it was fine and the next day it wouldn`t start, i checked everything i could think of and could find nothing wrong. If i sprayed some carb cleaner into the intake it would start and then die out in about 30 seconds. I had some spare parts laying around so i started swapping a few thing out and when i swapped out the solenoid resistor it started up on the first try. The solenoid resistor has something to do with the electrical circuit of injectors going to the computer, so if your 85 has a solenoid resistor check it out. I was lucky enough to have a spare one laying around, i have no idea what a new one would cost.
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swapped out resistor & still no go. No clicking coming from the relay either.
so when i jump the fuel pump @ the jump connector under the hood, does this bypass the CO relay? in theory if my relay was toast, this jumping should bypass it? |
Fuel pump test jumper does not bypass the relay on the earlier 22REs, it only makes the relay turn on with the ignition:
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...shtml#FuelPump http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...s/FuelPump.gif Jumping the +B - Fp terminals in the CO relay socket will send power to fuel pump for testing wiring: - http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...ORelayLocation |
i guess next step is testing wires that lead into CO relay? i have 2 relays & both test good on resistance, but neither "click" or help my truck start.
i also just checked the engine grounds -tight secure & clean. wondering what else i should look for/at? |
Well, you need to get power to the CO relay to make it turn on. So if that is not happening, figure out why (bad socket, bad wiring or something else wrong upstream from the socket). And then once that relay turns on, you need to get power to the fuel pump, so bad wiring or connectors between the relay and the pump). And you can manually test the CO relay by applying power to the STA - E1 terminals and you may be able to feel it click on and off and when on, do a resistance test on the +B - Fp terminals, should be 0 ohms. Maybe you have "quiet" relays that make no audible click when turned on.
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There are only a couple things that will will cause this no start issue.
A faulty cold start injector... Not as likely as the next problem. COLD START TIME SWITCH. The individual injectors do not have the volume capability to compensate for a faulty cold start circuit. Check your cold start time switch. A very common 22re issue. |
Check the EFI fuse behind the driver side kick panel, my 4Runner wouldn`t start one day and when i started checking the fuses the EFI fuse was corroded, i replaced the fuse and she fired right up.
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changed the efi relay & efi fuse.
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i got no power to CO relay..........will start working backwards from that.
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alright correction, i have some power to the CO relay. the STA imput has nothing when cranking. I was able to jump truck by running wire direct from battery to relay -STA port. so if i'm not mistaken the STA line comes in from the ECU? it apperas the ECU isn't sending proper signal to start truck. ECU not throwing any codes though & have even swapped in another ECU. what should i try next? thx
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Originally Posted by Island Wayne
(Post 51536247)
alright correction, i have some power to the CO relay. the STA imput has nothing when cranking. I was able to jump truck by running wire direct from battery to relay -STA port. so if i'm not mistaken the STA line comes in from the ECU? it apperas the ECU isn't sending proper signal to start truck. ECU not throwing any codes though & have even swapped in another ECU. what should i try next? thx
So the troubleshooting strategy is sort of a "divide and conquer" method. Find where the signal is good and where it is bad in a given circuit. Then the problem must lie some place in between, so test at some intermediate point and see if the signal there is good or bad and repeat the test. |
Did you check the ignition switch and ignition fuse ?.
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[quote=4Crawler;51536252]Yep, STA comes from the ECU in response to the key in the START position. There are connectors and wires between the ECU and the CO relay, any of which could be bad. Test by measuring the voltage at the ECU/STA pin and compare that to the voltage at the CO relay. But, with the fuel pump test jumper in place, the main coil in the CO relay should be pulling it in (CO relay has 2 coils, one for the STA signal and the other for the AFM/fuel pump signal (or the test jumper).
I'm pretty sure this is were the problem lies. I have run a jumper wire from my battery to the STA pin on the CO relay-the relay clicks & truck starts, then stops. i need to do some voltage testing between the ECU & CO relay. i know i have seen a diagram of the back of a 22re ECU -it shows what each pins function. this would be helpful if someone could post it up. What sort of voltage should i be reading at ECU & CO relay STA pins? thx |
ECU pinout:
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...roubleshooting Should see enough voltage to turn the relay on, ideally 12 volts, but relays usually work down to 9 volts or a little less. Or just leave the FP test jumper installed, I did that for a few years on my '85 w/o any problems. |
I have 12V at ECU STA pin when plug is not in. I lose voltage at STA pin when i put the plug (10pin) back into the ECU.
I have run a jump wire direct from STA pin on relay to STA pin on ECU. When the plug is in the ECU, the STA is still dead. When I remove the plug I read 12V. make any sense? why is the ECU STA pin losing power when i put the plug in? Thanks |
One explanation is that with it unplugged, you have an open circuit on that line, i.e. no current load on the signal and thus get full voltage. Plug it in and the voltage drops means the pin can't supply the needed current. Might be the ECU can't supply the relay coil power (about 0.1 amps) or there may be a short on that wire that is killing the signal.
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