Wagoneer Springs (front)
 

Ok, been looking at the site for a long time w/o posting, searched and soaked up the yota info here and elsewhere but have a couple of quick questions.
First what I've got:
'81 22r, 4spd, 4x4... Bought if from a friend for 600 bucks, he had 3 trucks like this and built one from the frame up for mud bogging and took this trucks cab and put it on his new toy since it was pristine- so I knew this trucks abilities just had to swap another '81 cab onto it and put alot of stuff back together... ugh ive had my second thoughts- but its a great running truck. Its an offroad and hunting truck mostly, still working on it. Putting an aluminum (heavy heavy) flat bed on it.

Ok, Im not really in a big hurry to lift this truck (heck I don't mind cutting, want to be able to flex w/33's) but- I have read about the wagoneer spring swap on the front. (I've got a stock set off my '88 wag that i lifted) So, I have springs and I know I should expect 3" or so of lift should I decide to put them on. Looks like the stock spring mount and the outside of the wag. bushings are the same size, which is good; no need for new mounts. Ok, what should I expect to compensate for if I use these springs? HY-steer (i understand without hy-steer it might be mariginal)? Changing spring center pins? Longer rear shackles required (seen different opinions on this)?

I'm sorry to ask that much but none of the articles I've read have clearly in my mind addressed this. Each poster or article I've looked thru offers different ideas.

Thanks,

Ethan Rogers

(mods move to newbie section if required)

This is from the Pirate4x4.com FAQ..

WAGONEER / WAGGY SPRINGS
These are stock Jeep Wagoneer Springs
Length: 47" (Length is eye to eye)
Bushing: 3"
Lift: 3.5 - 3.75"
Cost: $200 New, $60-$100 Used
From JcWhitney.com:
1976 - 1992 Jeep Wagoneer, Front Leaf Spring
7 Heavy-duty Leaves #07ZX2048P $99.95 Ea
5 Leaves #07ZX2047B $84.95 Ea
The 7 leaf is supposed to be the ones you are looking for.
Pinion angle can be an issue if you just bolt waggs to the stock location. If you have dropped hanger or dual cases the problem is lessened.

Really whenever you get into doing any kind of spring swap you may end up having to adjust things to fit your needs. Like pinion angle, which can be changed up to a certain degree with your shakles and or hangers. Also lift and softness, you may have to add a leaf or two to the pack to make it firm enough. If you drive it on the street pinion angle is going to be very important.

As far as steering you would want the Hi-steer anyway if budget allows
I say if you have a set lying around go for it.

The problem with stock waggy springs is the main and second leaf. Since there are 7 leafs they each are thin including the main leaf. The second leaf sits a few inches from the eye of the main leaf placing a lot of pressure on it which snaps or bends it. The Rancho 44044's are a lift spring that replaces the stock waggys, but can add too much lift. The benefit to the 44044's is that they have a thicker main leaf and the second leaf is a military wrap. I have tried numerous combinations and I am currently running the 44044 main & second and the stock lower 4 on the pass side and stock lower 5 on the driver side which gives about the same ride height as the stocks, but much stronger.

why different springs on driver and passenger side?

Ok, thanks. So, essentially I'm looking at setting my pinion angle with a dropped spring hanger? Thats why others had said new spring hangers and I was confused bc they would "bolt up". Also, I may need to look at the junkyard for a stiffer main spring that would measure out the same, w a 2nd leaf w/ mil wrap too (any ideas on what to look for?)? Ok, not to bad just gotta figure if I really need that lift. Or its cutting time. Thanks, any other suggestions or helpful ideas are appreciated.

Ethan Rogers

The driver side is heavier. Gas tank, battery, driver are all on the same side.

x2. i just snapped a main leaf the other weekend. i still love they way they work though.

Anyone combined the toyota stock 1st and leaf with the wagoneer leaves? Building a new spring pack? Just curious would that be stronger with the half wrap on the 2nd spring and all? Did that with one of my jeeps a few years ago. It worked out great but I never got to wheel it very much.

The spring perch on the drivers side of the front axle sits 3/8" lower than the pass. side. So you need to weld a piece of steel on the perch to raise it.

Hey I found some pics for ya.

Here is the specs:
'85 Yota std cab/short bed
22r
G5?
fwd shift w/ single twin stick
front:5.29 open, IFS hub swap, kong's Hi-steer
rear: 5.29 Detroit in IFS rear, Disk brakes
Stock Wagoneer spring w/shortest leaf removed
63" Chevies w/overload removed
35"x15r BFG Mud on Alum rims
re-enforced front crossmember, Fror Ifs box brace, ford shock towers(braced), rear shocks thru bed.
Sliders and rear Tube work rollover protection
acura seats, half doors, multi mount winch, custom rear bumper, Lo profile trans crossmember, power IFS steering...
plans to convert to pane and finish tube bed.
Attachment 182853

Truck Model/Year:Toyota 4Runner, 1985
Engine: DOA Built 22RE
Tranny:W56
Transfer Case(s):Dual 21 spline Toyota cases (2.28/4.7), Marlin Crawler adapter and 4.7 gears
Front Axle & Gear:Stock 85, V6 brakes, LC rotors, Open with 5.29s
Rear Axle & Gear:87 IFS housing, Welded 5.29s
Front Springs:Wagoneer springs, 6" shackle, 2" drop box 1.5" forward
Rear Springs:63 Chevy springs, dual shackle
Tires & Rims15x10 black steel, 35x12.50 Goodyear MTRs
Frame Mods:Fully plated in the front
Body Mods:Trimmed fenders
Other Mods:Custom front bumper, Warn Winch, Marlin rear bumper, Marlin sliders, homemade front square shaft, Budbuilt xmember, Marlin high steer, other stuff
Attachment 182854

Inspiration? Thanks, i'm getting this truck figured out and we will see how soon I can get all this completed. Hopefully I can get a new camera and get some pics up on here of what i'm doing.