Thanks.

Yeah, my best bet is that one of these desmoging folks will have one laying around...I do NOT want to pay $100 for that little thing...

Not many used 20Rs laying around anymore in Montana...

My TVSV is just plugged with one of the plugs that came with the desmog kit. It wasn't hooked up to anything when I got the truck, just had a vacuum hose going from one nipple to the other. Well it was keeping coolant in, but the plug does that just as well.

Those vacuum switches sure are fragile. I'm glad my truck no longer needs them.

The top nipple on mine broke clean off...

So unless I just cover over the hole with some kind of glue, I can't really just cap it off. I don't really know what the effects will be if I cap off one of those nipples.

The bvsv is just a vacuum switch that opens when the vehicle is cold, to run the AAP or advance accelerator pump. Pull the lines off of it, follow them back, and cap them at the aap and vacuum manifold. You don't need caps on the bvsv, it is now a plug. Drive it like you stole it.

That is exactly why I desmogged my engine...I didn't know what half of the crap was called and what it did (or was supposed to do)! LOL

Alrighty then!

Thanks.

20R de-smogged!
 

Attachment 94911

Attachment 94912

Attachment 94913

20R de-smogged!
 

Attachment 94916

Attachment 94917

Attachment 94918

^^That is a very patriotic engine! Is it running well?

De-smogged 20R
 

Patriotic it is! I even managed to sneak a little white on the starter and alternator plus some gray on the fan. Ran outta green. I might have got carried away with the rattle cans!!! I fired it for the first time today. Still working on the timing but other than a high idle it runs good. It has the RV cam so that may ad to my tuning drama but I am driving it 1,000 miles tomorrow night so I better get on it! My next project is a 22R with a 20R head, RV cam, Weber and a header, also de-smogged. After that I have a 4x4 with a 22RET (turbo) to rebuild, maybe a few more 20R's too!

Ran fantastic! Drove it to Minnesota, over 1100 miles!

You engine looks like your stole it from Captain America

I want to de-smog my 77 20R. It has a carb with cooling hoe's going to the choke. Is it possible to use my stock carb for your mod?

The water choke will not impact things, however, I don't know the 20R well enough to tell you how much of this process will work for you. I know the carbs are very different, and you will need different block plates as well.

Are you still running your AC? I want to delete my air pump and put ac in its place but I think I need to get a different vsv switch. Not sure how many the 22r has or needs. I guess my main question is what vacuum lines do we need to keep. I am sure you covered it somewhere but I am supposed to be doing math homework and not yota homework so I dont have time to sift through everything. Do you have a break down list that does not have peoples comments and questions..more of a summary?

As stated over and over again in this thread and my desmog thread, You only need vacuum to the distributor and brake booster - everything else goes. AC has nothing to do with desmogging and how you drive the compressor is up to you. But if you don't have time to sift through everything then we don't have time to help you either; get back to math homework.

If you don't have the time to read at least look at the picture's. Page 7 passenger side inner fender well, see your vsv switch anywhere?

I just did the de-smog 1982 toyota pickup with 22r.. I will say my trucks parts differed from your 1983 a bunch. So iunno what the story is with that. Thank you very much for this writeup it was very helpful.

I noticed you have/ kept the high altitude parts.. I am living in Denver,co now from Texas, and I have taken the truck up to about 9500 feet. I must say I have almost no power up there, and only 4wL works off pavements... What are your experiences with that unit up high? Should I install one?

Thanks!

Hola All, I have read this thread from beginning to end.... WOWA -- super cool on it...


Ok my question is a little on the different side..

i have 82 22r - partiality de-smogged - Tho i need to pass smog -- here in canada -- lower smog standards Than California with a weber carb ( EDITED /CORRECTED idle mix 2.0 turns out idle 1.5 turns in after touching linkage) 2 vacuum lines for distrib advance... see pic attached for routing of vacuum lines FYI that i found on line that seem to work well :-)
EGR valve not functional - not hooked up
air pump functional - not hooked up
air injection on exhaust manifold - capped / plugged
I'm passing flying colours on all fronts by miles -- BUT NOT on N0x I'm running 12% over the MAX limit at speed test... idle test is cool as well...

catalytic converter is unknown years old..

so to my question =
part 1) if i hook up the air pump directly to the exhaust manifold do you think that it would drop my N0x by a min of 12%

part 2) if i buy a new California catalytic would that give me that 12% +++ reduction on N0x that I'm looking for ?? tho that will come at a 200.00 price tag... but i just might have to do that... and i would if it was VERY likely to solve my N0x problem... your thoughts?

part3) I'm aware that High N0x is caused by high combustion temperatures - which can be attributed to running too far advanced on timing, running lean...ect -- anyone have any experience with installing larger jets on the weber ( not the idle ones) to richen the mixture - and there by possibly lowering combustion temps -- tho with the possible side effect of raising all the other emissions -- catch 22???

all the valves and vacuum switches are removed ( previously - not by me) so hooking up the EGR circut will be very problematic...


you can see my smog test under 2 different setups see bottom for picture ...maybe that will be helpful to others.. :-)

the LHS pic is test #1 the uneven red line N0x was caused by the tech doing the test - dropping speed to near the min required ( sub note there was a one way check valve in the vacuum advance ( normal advance "ported " i don't know why... holding the advance on the distributor) the idle advance was capped and plugged)

test #2 on RHS had both vacuum advance hoses connected

thanks in advance...

The fact that the idle mix screw is turned 2.25 turns out to run best shows that you are running too small jets on your low circuit.