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Moving to Colorado - To Take My '86 or to Sell It? Grateful for your advice!

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Old Jun 4, 2020 | 02:56 PM
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Wilcox's Avatar
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Talking Moving to Colorado - To Take My '86 or to Sell It? Grateful for your advice!

Hello Everyone!

I've been a long time browser of this forum, first time poster. I am moving to Colorado from California at the end of July and am having a hard time deciding whether to bring my 1986 4x4 SR5 with a 22re or to sell it. First off, I love this truck. I've owned it for 2 years, it's in great mechanical and cosmetic shape, with 246k on the odometer. I recently had the brakes redone, as well as front calipers, rear drums, new radiator, O2 sensor, had a catalytic converter put in as it was originally from Washington (Where it was kept in a garage). It runs great and is such an awesome road trip mobile. This truck is in great cosmetic shape, has a couple minor rust spots that have been painted over but have not grown or bubbled off the metal here in CA. A few cracks here and there in the paint I worry will be opened up by ice (will attach pictures at the bottom). My worry is that the truck will decay much quicker in Colorado due to snow, salted roads, hail, etc, and devalue quickly. I bought it for a pretty penny (finally just paid it off) and also want to respect such a beauty of a truck. However, this truck would be a great vehicle to have out there, as it is mechanically pretty rugged.

Anyone have advice for a Californian dude who has never lived in snow and loves his Toyota?? Will bringing it out there cause it to rust out? I want to honor the truck and not set it up to become a rust bucket, but also want to enjoy it. Grateful for any advice from folks with cold climate living and vehicle experience and a love for their Toyota.

Many thanks!!

-Wilcox



Seafoam Green, baby ~







little crack in the paint here I worry will open up if ice forms inside it.


oh yeah, if anyone has any advice on how to fix this fiberglass in my camper shell, it would be much appreciated. Seems like there's a strange torque on it potentially from the new shell door struts that has caused it to break. I've done ding repair on surfboards, but this is next level.


Another spot I worry ice could form and rip the paint off.


Rust spot under paint that hasn't grown or bubbled up here in CA

Window panel has a tiny bit of rust, worried this will get worse in snow


gotta love that sunroof

Nice door, eh?





If I do bring it, anyone have advice on how to undercoat?




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Old Jun 4, 2020 | 03:21 PM
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That is the perfect truck for Colorado! You will kick yourself for selling it every day. There are ways to treat the underside and panels of the truck to prevent rust, just do it every year before winter. A lot of us use Fluid Film, works great. Also try to wash off the road salt whenever you can, don't let it eat at your truck.
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Old Jun 4, 2020 | 04:03 PM
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These trucks are meant to be used. It will be in it's element in Colorado.
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Old Jun 4, 2020 | 09:05 PM
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Keep it!
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Old Jun 4, 2020 | 09:33 PM
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I have never known anybody who sold his first-gen and not regret it.
I drove mine on Route66 to Dallas and back. Also from So Cal to Hole In Rock Road, Then So Cal to Lake Powell and back.
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Old Jun 4, 2020 | 10:03 PM
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Well, I'm a California dude too, since 1945, although I lived the middle 2/3 elsewhere. Back in the mid-70's, I took my '65 El Camino to Anchorage and drove it all over the state. They didn't much salt roads then. Not undercoated. I rinsed the underside off with warm water as soon as I could after a snow when they did sand/salt the roads, or after I had driven on the beach. It developed superficial rust, of course.No bubbles or indication in the paint, four full winters + 1/2,.

I lived in the Tacoma, WA area last 17 years. Last few years, they went absolutely nuts with the liquid anti-ice stripes on the road and salt, tons of salt especially on Fort Lewis. Fortunately, my Corolla has good undercoating. Somebody whispered "possible freezing fog" and boom! out comes the spray and salt and sand.

The upper mid-west guys can tell you more about rust, and the CO guys about CO-specific. As far as "honoring the vehicle"...don 't get anthropomorphic about it. Its just steel, aluminum, glass, rubber, etc etc. Next guy might butcher it into a trail vehicle, unless you plan to keep it for your ride to the cemetery...
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Old Jun 5, 2020 | 12:38 AM
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Originally Posted by JJ'89
As far as "honoring the vehicle"...don 't get anthropomorphic about it. Its just steel, aluminum, glass, rubber, etc etc. Next guy might butcher it into a trail vehicle, unless you plan to keep it for your ride to the cemetery...
... or the next owner could be a family member or close friend who appreciates these trucks. There is a forum member who owns a 1987 2WD pickup that has been in his family since new. It was his grandmother's truck, and he takes good care of that truck, I bet it has a sentimental value for him, and I could understand that.






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Old Jun 5, 2020 | 06:44 AM
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From: California
The camper shell can easily be fixed with fiberglass cloth and resin.
If you've repaired surfboard dings, it's not difficult.
Sand it down, lay down the cloth on a light coating of resin (so it stays in place), apply a coat of resin, let dry, sand, and put a top coat of resin .
My kid got a camper shell for free after she bought her rig, and fixed some cracks "good as new".

You'll be kicking yourself if you let this beauty go!
Cheers
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Old Jun 5, 2020 | 11:00 AM
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Thanks for the support everyone!! Much appreciated.

Thanks for the heads up Paul22re on the Fluid Film, that sounds like great stuff. I'll do a solid undercarriage clean and spray that stuff all over before the snow hits. Looks like I can even use it on the spots I'm worried about water getting into, freezing, and expanding. Thanks for pointing me in the right direction!

You guys are right, the truck is meant to be used and I shouldn't sweat the small stuff or anthropomorphize it. Good call JJ and Millball!

As for the shell, I'm assuming it would be best to apply the fiberglass to the outside, is that correct Mr Z? The torque on it is pretty strong, might help if I disconnected the door strut. In addition to the crack I showed in the picture, the door frame of the camper shell is disconnecting from the fiberglass of the shell. Would it be best to put new rivets through the frame to reattach it to the fiberglass shell or does anyone have a better idea?

Thanks for the community support everyone, definitely leaning towards keeping it and using that Fluid Film to keep the rust at bay.

I've heard of folks having a separate set of winter wheels. The tires I have on there currently are all weather, so could I just use those in the snow and use 4wd? Other stupid beach kid question- should I purchase chains for driving in snow?

Thanks for the warm welcome to the online community!
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Old Jun 5, 2020 | 11:11 AM
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a lot of people don’t use true snow tires, but i have a set for each of the five vehicles i regularly use in the winter. that’s 20 snow tires, and 20 summer tires, all mounted on their own dedicated wheels.

those who claim snow tires aren’t needed have never driven in bad enough winter conditions.
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Old Jun 5, 2020 | 12:29 PM
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My experience first winter in Alaska as a California boy with the '65 El Camino: I got by just fine after the first snow of the year by going down to Sears Roebuck and getting a set of 8.25 x 14 radial snow tires for the rear axle (1976, radial tires were still a fairly new idea for most people) with studs installed. The car has limited-slip differential which helps a lot too. Studs help a lot too. A couple of sand bags over the rear axle too. Never had any problems with traction after that. BUT, where I lived hills weren't a big problem. When it gets truly slippery or hilly, you'll need traction tires and 4 wd and maybe even chains. Snow actually has fairly significant traction when its really cold, but not when the temp is close to 32F. I bought a couple of junkyard spare wheels the next summer and had the snow tires installed on them. My $0.02
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Old Jun 5, 2020 | 01:55 PM
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Bring it with you. My 88 4Runner is a lot of fun in the snow. The use Mag chloride here on the roads for ice and snow. Washes off really easy and doesn't rust out your body.
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Old Jun 6, 2020 | 07:44 AM
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The fiber glass cloth should be wrapped all the way around the edge of the broken section. One piece that wraps the inside and outside of the crack. Use a generous sized piece that is larger than the actual crack. It looks like the repairs will be easily made with the shell removed from the rig. Installing new pop-rivets is a good move, and easily accomplished, if needed.
Cheers
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Old Jun 6, 2020 | 08:55 AM
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From: Fresno
Jump to page 65 of the document for the conclusions

Report No. CDOT-DTD-R-2002-4
Final Report
Corrosion Effects of Magnesium Chloride and
Sodium Chloride on Automobile Components etc. etc.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf
magautocor.pdf (1.65 MB, 875 views)

Last edited by JJ'89; Jun 7, 2020 at 10:51 AM. Reason: delete
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Old Jun 6, 2020 | 09:09 AM
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Originally Posted by SomedayJ
... or the next owner could be a family member or close friend who appreciates these trucks. There is a forum member who owns a 1987 2WD pickup that has been in his family since new. It was his grandmother's truck, and he takes good care of that truck, I bet it has a sentimental value for him, and I could understand that.

I wonder who that is...

I say keep the Truck, but take care of it. If you are able to, it would be good to check out the rust that if forming under to paint bubbles and take care of it before it spreads.

As others have said, Fluid Film is great for rust prevention. Clean the under side of the body and clean out the frame, then apply the Fluid Film under the body, bed, nooks and crannies, and of course the frame (inside and out).

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Old Jun 16, 2020 | 05:56 AM
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As someone from Colorado that has seen my home state ruined by Kalifornians, (So much so that I really prefer to not even visit anymore) please don't move there and try to turn it into kalifornia. Don't ever say "well this is how they do it kalifornia so you should do that here too." That being said, Keep the truck.
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Old Jun 16, 2020 | 07:23 PM
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I don't see anyone mentioning this (maybe it was included in the fluid film discussion, I'm not a great reader) but spray the inside of your frame! That is where you will eventually see rust that will destroy the truck. It would suck if your body panels get rust but it will really suck if your frame starts falling apart and you have to park the truck or risk cracking it in half.

And yea, keep it! Ive seen some rusty beat up yotas in Colorado and they're all pretty bad-a** in my opinion, being used how they were intended. What is your alternative? Sell it and drive a chevy? Or even worse, a jeep?
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Old Jun 23, 2020 | 06:23 PM
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From: Northern Colorado
Colorado isn't terrible for rust - nothing like the upper midwest. While we do use mag chloride on the roads, Colorado generally provides lots of dry, sunny, very low humidity days between snowstorms, and in the absence of moisture, salt or mag chloride doesn't cause rust. Just wash the truck, including the underbelly, after things dry out after a snowstorm, and you'll not have much of a problem. My '94 has no significant rust underneath after 26 years of Colorado winters and very little garage time. I have yet to run into a fastener on the truck that was rusted in place.
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Old Jun 26, 2020 | 02:27 PM
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I drove mine 10 years ago from Nevada to MN in AUG. It was the best move I EVER made. I would never give her up, and she's not close to perfect like yours, but she's all mine and paid for
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Old Jun 26, 2020 | 09:41 PM
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From: Colorado Springs, CO.
Keep it, and don't be surprised if people come up to you wanting to buy it. I had people coming up to me regularly wanting to buy my 94 2wd, and now they are trying to buy my 91 2wd, and they are certainty nothing special.
mattz
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