I need lockerzzzzzz

Hey yotatech, I’m trying to get the 86 IFS 4Runner ready to rock once this quarantine lifts. It’s finally time to replace my 32x11.5 tires with BFG 33’s. I was planning on replacing the gears as well, and then thought I might as well drop in some lockers while I’m at it. The problem I’m having is coming up with a definitive parts list so I can price it out for new parts vs buying used diffs.

I’m at a crossroads with figuring out how to move forward and I have limited time to research (4 kids, full time job, Army national guard, yadayadayada) so please forgive me if this is already buried deep somewhere in the forums. I can do some work myself but setting up gears is not something I want to take on. I’m up for dropping the diffs and reinstalling if it will save significant $.

option 1: new parts all around. So far I’m tracking I would need new:
-4.88 ring and pinion front and rear ~$300
-two spartan/Aussie lockers ~$600
-labor for setting up gears $?
-would I need new bearings/seals? I have seen a lot of kits but have no idea what I would actually need.

option 2: buy used diffs. There’s a guy selling a front 7.5 diff with 4.88 and rear 8 inch with 4.88 and an ARB locker installed with around 15k miles for $1000-1200
-air compressor for ARB ~$150
-air hoses?
-one front locker ~$300
-labor $?

what am I missing? Any opinions on which way to go?

 

If you have not looked at Marlin crawler it is a good place to start. Also zuks differentials does diffs for guys from all over the world.

 

Air lockers are the best IMO and Option 2 would be a good deal if you can get an ARB front for ~$300. They sell for $900+ new. A new ARB locker comes with everything needed (5/6mm air line, solenoid, switch etc). If you end up buying the full axle make sure it comes with the rear locker solenoid. In SoCal labor to install a front locker is $600-800 depending on shop.

By the way I have 4.88, air lockers, 3vze, and even with just 31's the gearing feels too high.

 

Hey Daddy..

This is an old post so... but I would have to agree with the other guy here. If you are strictly crawling and off-road, then 4.88’s are a good place to be. If however you are wanting to daily/ get to the trail head after many many freeway and highway miles, I’d go with something lower, perhaps a 4.56 setup. AND... that’s with running a 33” tire. I have bfg KO2’s (which are not actually 33” in diameter, closer to 32” tire) with 4.88’s and I would agree that it’s slightly too high. I suspect if I ran a true 33” tire that the gearing would be about perfect, but plan to swap out for 4.56’s soon.