88 Toyota headgasker
07-10-2019, 05:34 AM
#1
88 Toyota headgasker
I replaced headgasker on 22 re ! Found exhaust gas in my coolant ! It was pushing coolant through my radiator cap ! I replaced with new head and gasket ! Worked fine for about a month and now started the same problem ! It started pushing coolant through the radiator cap ? I’m stumped ? I don’t know why it took a month to show up ? Could it be a block issue ? I had a Toyota mechanic help in assembly , or I’d question I did it right ? Any info I’d appreciate !
07-10-2019, 06:45 AM
#2
Sure it's not just running hot, and needs a new water pump or thermostat?
Before I tore it down again, I would use a combustion leak test kit.
Which head gasket did you use?
Two years ago next month. My head gasket was doing the same as yours, and I installed a new Enginetech complete cylinder head, new set of Enginetech head bolts, and a Toyota head gasket. Still runs good!
Before I tore it down again, I would use a combustion leak test kit.
Which head gasket did you use?
Two years ago next month. My head gasket was doing the same as yours, and I installed a new Enginetech complete cylinder head, new set of Enginetech head bolts, and a Toyota head gasket. Still runs good!
Last edited by snippits; 07-10-2019 at 06:48 AM.
07-10-2019, 07:36 AM
#3
88 head gasket
I haven’t change the waterpump ! I’m not sure where it supposed to rain as far as the gauge is going to me it’s always look like it’s ran a little high so maybe I’ll start there
07-11-2019, 03:28 AM
#5
If it has a warped head or block, you can replace headgaskets like underwear. Did you check for trueness?
Use an OEM headgasket
Use an OEM headgasket
07-11-2019, 05:30 AM
#7
If it's not running hot, then I don't think changing the water pump will do any good.
As a last ditch effort, re-torque the head bolts. On my Toyota head gasket install, I torqued at 62 foot pounds. Never did re-torque it.
As a last ditch effort, re-torque the head bolts. On my Toyota head gasket install, I torqued at 62 foot pounds. Never did re-torque it.
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07-11-2019, 07:13 PM
#10
Upon checking out the overflow tank it it not taking in coolant nor is it returning it to the radiator? I just can’t seem to figure out anything to try ! I may try retorque the head bolts !
07-11-2019, 08:10 PM
#11
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You got a pickle in your hands. Overflowing tank usually is usually one of three things. Air bubbles in the system that expand. Leak either at rad cap or a hose letting coolant loose and eventually enough air gets in the system that the water boils over into the reservoir. Or.... Exhaust gasses getting into the coolant system due to a head gasket leak.
Seeing that you already did the head work, and you did it right I would say you likely can't hold pressure somewhere. Some coolant leaks are very heard to find. I had one that was causing the same issue on another car that came from a coolant line right by the exhaust. The coolant would evaporate so it was very hard to find.
Iron blocks are hard to crack/warp but they can happen if you overheat very bad. If you still want to retorque your head, I suggest this method.
">>*Other than simple overheat, the #1 cause of head gasket failure is clamping force variations.
Usually when I mention this, the answer is "I torqued it properly!"
*Yes, very likely, but torque, which is a twisting force, means almost nothing when we are talking about clamping force.
Dirt or machinery debris in the bolt holes will throw the clamping force off as much as 50% and more, even though the torque wrench reads perfectly normal.
The same happens when installing new bolts. The very best bolts made will show a rough mating surface at the threads when inspected under a microscope.
When installing new or used fastners, first be sure the bolt will spin in and out ALL THE WAY freely with simple finger pressure. Be sure they are lightly oiled, not too much which can hydraulic lock at the bottom of any blind holes and spoil your day.
Use this simple breakin procedure for any new bolts: Tighten all of them to 50%, back off 1/4 turn, then to 75%, back off 1/4 turn. Then take them to 100%, back off 1/4 turn and repeat. Do a retorque after full warmup.
*This procedure simply assures that the imperfections of the threads seat to the bolt hole threads.
Yes, time consuming, but much faster and less costly than another set of gaskets, the actual clamping force will increase vastly, even though the torque load is exactly the same.
The alternative is you may be additional twisting at the top of the bolt after the threads have come to a stop from excess friction.
If any single one does that, head gasket failure prematurely is gauranteed, plus it weakens the bolt....*EB"
Seeing that you already did the head work, and you did it right I would say you likely can't hold pressure somewhere. Some coolant leaks are very heard to find. I had one that was causing the same issue on another car that came from a coolant line right by the exhaust. The coolant would evaporate so it was very hard to find.
Iron blocks are hard to crack/warp but they can happen if you overheat very bad. If you still want to retorque your head, I suggest this method.
">>*Other than simple overheat, the #1 cause of head gasket failure is clamping force variations.
Usually when I mention this, the answer is "I torqued it properly!"
*Yes, very likely, but torque, which is a twisting force, means almost nothing when we are talking about clamping force.
Dirt or machinery debris in the bolt holes will throw the clamping force off as much as 50% and more, even though the torque wrench reads perfectly normal.
The same happens when installing new bolts. The very best bolts made will show a rough mating surface at the threads when inspected under a microscope.
When installing new or used fastners, first be sure the bolt will spin in and out ALL THE WAY freely with simple finger pressure. Be sure they are lightly oiled, not too much which can hydraulic lock at the bottom of any blind holes and spoil your day.
Use this simple breakin procedure for any new bolts: Tighten all of them to 50%, back off 1/4 turn, then to 75%, back off 1/4 turn. Then take them to 100%, back off 1/4 turn and repeat. Do a retorque after full warmup.
*This procedure simply assures that the imperfections of the threads seat to the bolt hole threads.
Yes, time consuming, but much faster and less costly than another set of gaskets, the actual clamping force will increase vastly, even though the torque load is exactly the same.
The alternative is you may be additional twisting at the top of the bolt after the threads have come to a stop from excess friction.
If any single one does that, head gasket failure prematurely is gauranteed, plus it weakens the bolt....*EB"
07-11-2019, 08:53 PM
#13
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I would give it a try. YOU DO NOT WANT TO UNDO THE HEADGASKET SEAL. I would undo the torque by 10 total pounds in sequences of 5 ft pounds (target of 46-50ft pounds). Then follow the guide. I would torque to around 60ft pounds. A little extra torque won't hurt anything.
I would also suggest a proper coolant burp, which I am sure is the cause or at least part of the issue you are facing. Just jack up the front of the car, so its on an incline. You can also just place the car on an incline if you have access to one. Place a large funnel; that SEALS into the radiator cap. I just use a large funnel from Wal Mart with a bunch of duck tape around the mouth that seals with the radiator. Disconnect the coolant return line from the reservoir and place it into the funnel. Then fill up the funnel until you have some coolant or water in the funnel that doesn't go into the radiator. You also want to keep the return line under water, so that the system doesn't suck in any air. Turn on your car and turn the heater on at full blast. Then just leave the car running until it gets up to operating temperature. A proper burp can take anywhere from 10 mints to an hour. Just be patient. Eventually, the bubbles coming out should subside. Be careful, since if you do have a head gasket leak, the bubbles will never stop, but that also a way to test if you are still leaking. I would also recommend an assistant, since my method with my homemade coolant burp method tends to tip over. Its a two man job on these cars where you cant read live data from the engines computer.
Be observant when burping too, as you might find coolant leaks you didn't know you had. A common leak spot is the coolant port on the intake manifold. Its about an inch away from the thermostat. If you didn't replace the o-ring that goes in there you might leak coolant from there. You had to move it to replace the head gasket.
07-12-2019, 05:47 AM
#14
Thx for the info ! I still don’t understand why the same condition came back after about a month ! I’ll try your recommendation and let you know what o find !
Thx Dan
Thx Dan
07-12-2019, 08:59 AM
#15
For what it's worth. 22RE Performance says that a re-torque of the Toyota head gasket is not needed after installation because it is the correct thickness.
I did not re-toque mine, and it's doing fine right at two years later. I installed it the first week of August 2017.
https://22reperformance.com/22re-eng...head-gasket-oe
I did not re-toque mine, and it's doing fine right at two years later. I installed it the first week of August 2017.
https://22reperformance.com/22re-eng...head-gasket-oe
Last edited by snippits; 07-12-2019 at 09:00 AM.
07-12-2019, 10:30 AM
#16
Yeah I figured that was probably the case but I’m at a loss I have to try something ? I’m going to try and burp the system first to see if maybe I have an air pocket in there but it would be for me kind of hard to believe after I’ve been driving it for about a month but I’m going to try that first and then move on from there !
07-14-2019, 02:46 PM
#17
Update on radiator cap purging ! I did a burping of the cooling system , teuck facing uphill and used a funnel kit for burping coolant ! I let truck run for approx 25-30 mins ! Seen a few burps come out in to funnel area ! I don’t know how much it takes to cause this problem ? I didn’t see any small bubbles only any occasional burp ! I have driven the truck twice for extended trips and no sign of purging out radiator cap ! I’m hoping that was the fix ? I’m surprised though because I thought it would be burping non stop in order to cause this problem ! Thx for the info ! I’ll keep informed ! Hopefully this was my problem !
07-14-2019, 03:59 PM
#18
I am hoping it is fixed but skeptical ! I’m wondering if maybe it’s only short term if headgasker again is problem and in time it will pressureixe the system again ?
I guess tile will tell !
I guess tile will tell !
07-15-2019, 12:49 AM
#19
The tip about the head bolt threads is something to look at. Clean those out by blowing compressed air over it at a 90° angle. Fill with brake cleaner, use a pipe cleaner or other thin thingy, blow air, repeat. Chase threads. Install. (After checking block for trueness.)
Also, replace ALL the coolant hoses under the intake manifold. There are a couple and you will be bitching. But since you are gonna be taking it off anyhow, it shouldn't be as cramped.
Also, replace ALL the coolant hoses under the intake manifold. There are a couple and you will be bitching. But since you are gonna be taking it off anyhow, it shouldn't be as cramped.
07-15-2019, 10:20 AM
#20
Well latest update on this I drove around all day yesterday in the vehicle after burping the system and did not purge any more coolant out of the radiator cap ! started up this morning and drove it to work which is about 3 miles from my house and when I got there the coolant was coming out of the radiator cap again ! This weekend I will put an exhaust gas tester on my radiator to confirm that the gases are going back in to the coolant ! If that’s the case the only next thing I can do is maybe torque down the headboards a little bit more and see if maybe I can stop it if that’s even the problem ?
