94 4r electrical burn smell, engine shuts off, wont start
#1
After 3vze overhaul, engine shuts off from reverse, blown fuse
Just did a full service on my 94 4runner, belts, radiator, timing, pumps, etc. My battery & starter is also newer (6 months) but has been dead for a couple weeks while ive been wrenching. Started it up this morning, sounded beautiful, disconnected my jumper cables, and when i attempted to put it in “reverse”, engine shuts off and then i smell electrical burn inside my car, but i cant locate where it had come from. Attempted more jump starts and the car isn't getting any juice at all now. Nothing what so ever. Any ideas what i did wrong, or what happened, or anything at all, self taught mechanic but not what so ever a electrical person.
why?! 😫
94 4runner 3vze rwd 3.slow
update1: electrical smell coming from fuse area under driver side fuse pane.
update2: found and replaced a 10A fuse, still no power or start up. SEE PIC
why?! 😫
94 4runner 3vze rwd 3.slow
update1: electrical smell coming from fuse area under driver side fuse pane.
update2: found and replaced a 10A fuse, still no power or start up. SEE PIC
Last edited by DH4runner; 05-18-2019 at 03:50 PM.
#2
Registered User
It looks like you have some aftermarket wring going on. The fuse panel shown in the picture is not a factory Toyota unit and I have no idea what they go to.
Does anything work? Lights? Horn? Wipers?
Find out and list what works and what doesn't work.
If nothing works, you likely have blown the fusible link wire between the battery and the under-hood fuse box and/or other main fusible link blocks in the under-hood fuse box.
Do you own a multimeter or test light? You may need these tools to find out what is going on.
Does anything work? Lights? Horn? Wipers?
Find out and list what works and what doesn't work.
If nothing works, you likely have blown the fusible link wire between the battery and the under-hood fuse box and/or other main fusible link blocks in the under-hood fuse box.
Do you own a multimeter or test light? You may need these tools to find out what is going on.
#3
It looks like you have some aftermarket wring going on. The fuse panel shown in the picture is not a factory Toyota unit and I have no idea what they go to.
Does anything work? Lights? Horn? Wipers?
Find out and list what works and what doesn't work.
If nothing works, you likely have blown the fusible link wire between the battery and the under-hood fuse box and/or other main fusible link blocks in the under-hood fuse box.
Do you own a multimeter or test light? You may need these tools to find out what is going on.
Does anything work? Lights? Horn? Wipers?
Find out and list what works and what doesn't work.
If nothing works, you likely have blown the fusible link wire between the battery and the under-hood fuse box and/or other main fusible link blocks in the under-hood fuse box.
Do you own a multimeter or test light? You may need these tools to find out what is going on.
#4
Yeah, hard to troubleshoot non-stock circuit from miles away.
Like Old87Yota says above.
Also make a clear, complete exact list of what works and what does not work. Make it detailed, but with only so many words as necessary.
Example:
Ignition Off:
headlights, taillights, radio work or not?
horn and hazards work or not?
Ignition ON:
Turn signals work or not?
Backup lights work or now?
Ignition in Start position:
Hear, feel, see, smell anything? EXACTLY what and where?
Starter motor cranks or not?
Got multi-meter?
Like Old87Yota says above.
Also make a clear, complete exact list of what works and what does not work. Make it detailed, but with only so many words as necessary.
Example:
Ignition Off:
headlights, taillights, radio work or not?
horn and hazards work or not?
Ignition ON:
Turn signals work or not?
Backup lights work or now?
Ignition in Start position:
Hear, feel, see, smell anything? EXACTLY what and where?
Starter motor cranks or not?
Got multi-meter?
The following users liked this post:
DH4runner (05-19-2019)
#5
Yeah, hard to troubleshoot non-stock circuit from miles away.
Like Old87Yota says above.
Also make a clear, complete exact list of what works and what does not work. Make it detailed, but with only so many words as necessary.
Example:
Ignition Off:
headlights, taillights, radio work or not?
horn and hazards work or not?
Ignition ON:
Turn signals work or not?
Backup lights work or now?
Ignition in Start position:
Hear, feel, see, smell anything? EXACTLY what and where?
Starter motor cranks or not?
Got multi-meter?
Like Old87Yota says above.
Also make a clear, complete exact list of what works and what does not work. Make it detailed, but with only so many words as necessary.
Example:
Ignition Off:
headlights, taillights, radio work or not?
horn and hazards work or not?
Ignition ON:
Turn signals work or not?
Backup lights work or now?
Ignition in Start position:
Hear, feel, see, smell anything? EXACTLY what and where?
Starter motor cranks or not?
Got multi-meter?
Last edited by DH4runner; 05-20-2019 at 06:46 PM.
#6
I had replaced my burnt fuses, 80alt, 15a efi, and 15a dome fuse + a 10A tube fuse in the cabin seen in the pic posted. I haven't started the engine yet because I don't want to blow the fuses all over again, and I'm kinda scared for the worst lol, so there for I haven’t tested the starter. But the fuses blew the other day not on start up but when I had put into reverse. I will check my starter wiring next though. Alternator wiring checks out. With battery in and keys in, headlights, taillights, break lights work, but haven't tested reverse lights as I haven't started the engine up. Left blink blinks normal, but right blinker blinks fast, but i have my front right blinker unplugged. My melted wires weren't melted through, just the plastic covering, so that I don’t think had caused the short. Horn works. What next.. 🤔 Parked on the street and out of light. Back on tomorrow.
#7
Registered User
iTrader: (-1)
Test for short to ground at the taillight assembly (reverse lights), and/or the reverse light switch on the transmission.
Figure out that that monstrosity of a fuse panel is doing there in the first place. Then test for shorts on it if you HAVE to keep it.
Test for shorts thru the burnt wires..
Then maybe hook up the battery.
Figure out that that monstrosity of a fuse panel is doing there in the first place. Then test for shorts on it if you HAVE to keep it.
Test for shorts thru the burnt wires..
Then maybe hook up the battery.
The following users liked this post:
DH4runner (05-21-2019)
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