RAD4Runner

This affects many trucks from first-gen pickups, to second-gen 4Runners / 3rd-gen pickups.

BEFORE YOU DO ANYTHING, pls check if your starter solenoid CONSISTENTLY works when you apply 12V directly from battery to its control pin as shown on my post here:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...l#post52367443

*CAVEAT:
WHEN THE 5TARTER RELAY IS WIRED CORRECTLY SIMILAR TO LATER MODELS, IN THE UNLIKELY* EVENT THAT THE CONTACTS CLOSE* OR SHORT* FOR SOME REASON THE 5TART3R WILL CRANK EVEN WITHOUT IGN1T1ON_SW1TCH BEING TURNED ON. IF PARKED IN FIRST GEAR, TRUCK MAY MOVE AND CAUSE AN ACCIDENT. A K1LL SW1TCH BETWEEN THE FUSE AND THE RELAY PIN 4 IS HIGHLY-RECOMMENDED. JUST KEEP WIRE RUN TO MINIMUM AND DO NOT TELL US WHERE YOU PUT THE KILL SWITCH - LOL!

The 1984 to 1991 22R-E's and possibly other models (see list of affected models) (https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...l#post52368225) have a common problem where when you attempt to start you only hear the COR click, but start3r does not crank. starter solenoid MAY click but weakly.
The problem may be intermittent or may not occur because a combination of 5tart3r 5ol3noids with plungers that operate smoothly, healthy batt3r1e5, healthy wiring, and/or very good contacts may mask the problem.

Trucks before Mid-1986's do not have a starter relaY, (location shown in picture below).
1986 to 1988 with automatic transmission do not a starter relay, either.[indented=40px]Without a starter relay, the power to energize the 5tart3r 5oleno1d has to travel over a long path (probably about 15 feet, illustrated here (https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...l#post52368224) from battery, to cabin, to ignition 5w1tch, back to engine compartment, and eventually to the 5tart3r 5oleno1d. Wire resistance and that of 1gnit1on 5witch cause lots of power loss, so power is not enough to actuate the starter solenoid plunger completely. It also subjects 1gniti0n 5w1tch contact to high current (approx. 12 Amps) that could shorten its life.



HERE'S HOW TO WIRE ADDED STARTER RELAY WHERE THERE IS NONE


HERE'S SUGGESTED ACTUAL CONSTRUCTION OF RETROFIT

*CAVEAT:
WHEN THE STARTER ReLAY IS WIRED CORRECTLY SIMILAR TO LATER MODELS, IN THE UNLIKELY* EVENT THAT THE CONTACTS CLOSE* OR SHORT* FOR SOME REASON THE 5TART3R WILL CRANK EVEN WITHOUT IGN1T1ON_SW1TCH BEING TURNED ON. IF PARKED IN FIRST GEAR, TRUCK MAY MOVE AND CAUSE AN ACCIDENT. A K1LL SW1TCH BETWEEN THE FUSE AND THE RELAY PIN 4 IS HIGHLY-RECOMMENDED. JUST KEEP WIRE RUN TO MINIMUM AND DO NOT TELL US WHERE YOU PUT THE KILL SWITCH - LOL!

Late-1986 and later with manual transmissions already have the starter relay, but they were wired wrong at the factory.

1986 to 1988 22R-E Cranking System Schematic


ALWAYS VERIFY HANDS-ON EVEN IF YOU TRUST THE INFORMATION OR THE SOURCE.
SEE VIDEO OF ACTUAL TEST AND FIX BY RM GARAGE BELOW.


ALWAYS VERIFY HANDS-ON EVEN IF YOU TRUST THE INFORMATION OR THE SOURCE^^^.

THE $11, HALF-HOUR FIX FOR starter relay that is wired wrong:
STRONGLY-RECOMMENDED to add kill switch between fuse and pin 4 of relay.
(Hot shot is off-the-shelf but it requires more work than the simple re-wire below)

THE FIX


SUGGESTED LAYOUT

bearcat2

Does this nullify the "clutch start cancel" button? I mean will this allow you to engage the starter by simply turning the ignition without the clutch depressed or the "clutch start cancel" button on the dash pushed?

RAD4Runner

I HOPE THIS HELPS CLARIFY THE TOPIC FURTHER...
In trucks without starter relay or those with relays wired wrong, current up to 12 Amps needed to energize the starter solenoid and actuate the plunger goes over excessively long wiring and ignition switch ST1 contacts and neutral safety switch contacts, causing too much power loss and causing intermittent actuation of starter solenoid. This also shortens life of ST1 and NSS contacts. Healthy battery and wiring, good ignition switch contacts, smooth operation of solenoid plunger, light plunger return spring tension may mask the problem; hence, intermittent.

SOLENOID COIL CURRENT WITH WRONG STARTER RELAY WIRING:
See list of affected models






1991 4Runner, 22R-E (JPL's)



PATH OF STARTER SOLENOID COIL CURRENT WITHOUT STARTER RELAY ON ALL 22R-E'S WITH AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION:





SOLENOID COIL CURRENT WITH PROPER STARTER RELAY WIRING (OR RETROFITTED WITH STARTER RELAY):



HERE'S HOW TO FIX IT

keywords: clicknocrank, clickonly, no crank, clickonlynocrank, wiringflaw

No, it will not bypass the clutch safety nor affect operation of clutch safety cancel.
It will only add a starter relay, if missing, or wire the existing starter relay the way a relay should be wired.

5 Fists

Just wanted to say I was getting the click no start issue on my 87 Auto 4runner, followed Rads instructions in his build up thread about adding a starter relay. Solved my issue.

Rad has also helped me understand how circuits work just from reading his many write ups, thanks Rad!

Paul22RE

So 1992 and later 22REs w/a manual tranny are wired correctly?

RAD4Runner

Maybe yes, Maybe no.
Early Toyota's wiring was a Frankenstein clan.
Perfect example is JPL's 1990. Wired correctly but the starter relay is in the cabin, many feet away from the battery and the starter.

The only way to know is to be aware of the possibility of flaw and verify each and every case.

LIST OF KNOWN AFFECTED MODELS:
(Will be updated as we encounter the issues)

Wrong Start3r R3lay Wiring: Affected Models Documented
This:
1) Causes too much resistance and voltage drop that too little power reaches the start3r sol3noid to energize it completely.
2) Subjects the ignition switch ST1 contact to approx 12 amps needed to energize the starter solenoid.

1986 22RE Manual (rad4runner's printed FSM ):



^^^ Must be automatic.

1988 22RE Manual (From FSM PDF):






1989, 22RE, Manual (cr@ves4wheelin@yotatech):


1989-1992 4Runner V6, 1989-1990 Pickup V6 (schematic shared by DrCreosotes@yotatech) Wired Wrong:



1990 Toyota 4R, 3VZE, AT, V6, 4WD. (Hadia's thread here)


I am puzzled, however, because while 1989 V6's are wired wrong A schematic of a 1988 V6 3VZ posted somewhere in the forum shows correct wiring. Perhaps the 1989 engineer did not know of the correction and re-used the wrong schematic?

HERE's HOW TO FIX IT:
1) Verify that the start3r sol3noid, contacts and motor are good (THIS WAY), AND...
repeat: AND, not OR.
2) Fix the starter relay problem THIS WAY.

TRUCKS FIXED BY REWIRING:
Phantez's (https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116.../#post52299513)
Griswald's 1989 22RE: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/classi...ml#post2730870

keywords: clicknocrank, clickonly, no crank, clickonlynocrank, wiringflaw, affectedmodels

zammer

Bear with me here, very frustrated, though RAD your help has been great so far.

Been having major headaches with my 88 22r 2wd 5 spd manual pickup. It has a starter relay (which always clicks) but doesn't turn over. I replaced the contacts in the original starter, seemed to help for a while, then same issue last week. I just replaced

- Reman OE starter (with new solenoid)
- New battery
- New terminals on battery

I also wired in (as you showed above) a direct 30A fused line for trucks with 'wrong' wiring circuit but with existing starter relay. Problem continues - turns over about half the time, half the time relay clicks and solenoid engages, but starter doesn't turn.

2 questions remain after some further troubleshooting:

1) I jumped a line direct from the + battery post to the male spade connector on the new starter solenoid - same issue! only energized half the time, half the time it does and doesn't engage the starter motor. Sometimes it does engage the starter though and it spins up properly. Doesn't that mean the reman starter I got is bad?

2) Sanity check: the other line to the starter, the one with the boot over it, is hot! if the key is off and that circle connector touches the block, it arcs/sparks. Should it do that?

millball

Good strong, clean and heavy grounds from the battery and frame to the engine/tranny???

zammer

When I changed out the terminals on the battery, I sanded and cleaned the one on the frame and the other that goes to the motor (like down to the oil pan ish). Am I missing any?

Oldertruckguy

New to forum, but dealt with same problem, previous owner messed with wiring, make sure starter bolts are tight.too.

zammer

Edit: yeah, the reman starter was bad - my rebuilt one (that I redid the contacts and plunger with) works perfectly with this mod. Wow what a loop that threw me for.

Could someone outline how/where to put in the kill switch in this scenario? I've been meaning to put one in for a while and now's a good time to kill two birds.

scope103

I have a garage, so I don't worry about a kill switch. (Though, maybe I should ...)

If you put it in the starter circuit, your black-hat will realize immediately you have a kill switch, because nothing happens when she turns the key. So she'll look for it. If you put it in the ignition circuit, it will turn over fine but not catch. A bad guy might just think you have a crappy vehicle and give up.

Or even better, put it in the VAF FC circuit. The truck will turn over and start running, but die after a few seconds. Not very appealing.

In the carburetor days, you could put it in the fuel pump circuit. The bowl would have enough fuel to start and drive about 100'. Then the vehicle would die in the middle of the road, and only a VERY determined thief would sit out in the middle of the street trying to find your kill switch. Can't do it quite this way with a fuel injected engine.

RAD4Runner

I like Scope's delay-stall. More likely to put the vehicle in a conspicious place.

sportinh2o

Great thread - really appreciate the info. Very relevant to what I'm currently fighting in my '89 Auto. I see what looks like to be a tab for a grounding strap aft of the starter - on the transmission itself. Mine has nothing as seen in the pic attached.

New starter, new relay, so I figure I'm tracking down a ground or voltage issue. This truck isn't stock as she has a 3.4, but mostly unmolested other than that.

RAD4Runner

Thanks! Happy to help.
Auto but you have a starter relay?
Need to describe your symptoms with exact details so you put us at your vehicle.
Exactly what do you se, hear, feel when you do what.


That tab looks unusual but not needed for starter.

Oldertruckguy

Fought this too on my 86 r22, previous owner put ford or dodge (older) style solenoid on truck. After dealing with intermittent clicking start not start. I hooked long jumper wire to multimeter inside cab & checked for power when starting & when in run. Then just ran both on one bolt to starter. During this time realized starter bolts were loose. Took many times but current setup been working great. Clutch safety switch not used anyway again previous owner doing not mine.

sportinh2o

Thanks Rad - Here goes: These symptoms have progressed from intermittent to almost daily issue.

Click when key is turned without the starter engaging. click, click, click, start.....or it can keep clicking. There is a relay - at least, I "think" it is the relay that is on the driver kick panel (4 pin,12V/22Amp). I also hear some click action in the passenger kick panel. Knocking the starter doesn't guarantee results.

From research, I think the '89 auto's have a relay where as the '88 auto's do not.
O'reilly's showed a part # 2JR6 for the starter relay and since that part was getting significantly warm on mine, I thought I'd replace - cheap, but not a fix. Starter was under warranty so I thought what the heck, so it is new as well. Thanks again for any help you can throw my way.

sportinh2o

Been so hot in the garage, I haven't diagnosed more. 10pm and its still 90.

RAD4Runner

Most welcome.
[QUOTE=sportinh2o;52428038]...Click when key is turned without the starter engaging. click, click, click, start...
I "think" it is the relay that is on the driver kick panel (4 pin,12V/22Amp). I also hear some click action in the passenger kick panel.
[ /quote]
Please find out EXACTLY what ARE clicking and post pictures of what you see. Else, I could not help from here

You could very well have same wiring as JPL's (here). It has starter relay but too far from he starter solenoid that there's still lots of power lost on the unnecessarily long wire.

sportinh2o

So, I took the sweat plunge to dig deeper in the hot box of my garage. First off, THANK you Rad for taking the time to point me in a good direction. Apparently, my truck is no longer stock in how the relay is. What I first thought was the relay was actually the EFI solenoid. I felt the click and the warmth and thought from previous forum searching that I'd found it. Standing on my head, I could read the white plastic housing. But, I had ToyOnlySwaps do the 3.4 on the truck. The relay is on the right side kick plate behind the computer. I also verified I had a good engine ground - it was intact and fresh, and check out on the Ohm meter. I did see the battery was right under 12v. I stuck a charger on it and it fired right up. I do know that this isn't the root of the problem, so I am ordering another of these relays and checking these wire connections more closely.

Also, that is indeed speaker wire run in the pic. Please, don't anyone think TOS wired me up with speaker wire!! They were truly professional!