thook

hey all,

i parked it several years ago due to frame and body rust. it was beyond help. but, not long before that, i'd rebuilt the motor and put in a new clutch. a marlin 1200lb. likely around 1000 miles on all that R/R. i hadn't wanted to send it to salvage until i could find a convenient way to sell the motor and any other working bits. but, now there's someone who simply wants the whole thing. i'm not interested in trying to calculate what i have in the motor and making that back. i just want to sell it to a friend for a fair price while still garnering, of course, as much as i reasonably can. need the money! so, i'm thinking $500??? everything about it is solid save the frame, body, and upholstery.

knowledgeable suggestions would be greatly appreciated. thank you!

dropzone

iTrader: (6)

That seems fair, but try for $650 or so
Might get a few dollars more

thook

thanks, dropzone. i'm actually gonna ask $800. after looking at what used motors, trannies, etc go for i think that's actually reasonable. i did tell my friend i'm open to haggling a bit, though

i mean, would you or anyone else here pay $800? i didn't use any china parts on the motor. new rings, bearings, rebuilt head, new timing kit from engnbldr, oil pump, water pump, timing cover, and sprinkled liberally toyota fairy dust. the tranny is in great shape with mt-90 in it and new shifter bushing. the radiator is not very old. nor are the cv axles. airflow meter is new reman aisin. new aisin master brake cylinder. new throttle sensor and o2. ngk plugs and wires aren't that old. had the injectors cleaned. you know...bunch'o stuff.

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

Is it possible to get the engine Running ??

A running Engine is worth more then a non running rebuild any day at least to me

That allows a buyer to at least move the vehicle make sure the gear boxes all work

thook

i agree on the running engine worth. i kept it periodically started for a good while. then, one day it wouldn't start. no fuel to the engine. i didn't have time to dig in to it the problem at that point....and, still don't really. my best guess knowing the vehicle was/is a COR problem. it had been a problem before a long time ago, but permanently set the contacts closed to solve it. i know...tricky, but it worked and hadn't proved disastrous. needless to say, not going to bother replacing it given the current situation, but i have no doubt the motor is still sound. if i have a moment to spare within the two week window before he comes to look at it, i'll check it out....though i had looked at everything but that before. and, of course, the fuel's old by now. it would have to be dumped. no time to do all that

not sure why you'd question the working of gear boxes. how can they go bad sitting?

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

Old habits die Hard just me being me about the gear boxes

Having Transmissions freeze in the winter from all the water over the years makes me paranoid .

i also learned my lesson about selling anything to former friends Still hear complaints from a Truck I sold in the late seventies

wallytoo

iTrader: (1)

thook

wallytoo...there's a drain plug on the fuel tank, so it's even easier than that. but, again, don't really have the time.

wyoming...i would feel better if i could get running and he is a friend, but i told him the whole situation. he knows what he's getting into. he just got his hands on an '87 and the motor's stumbling and smoking with well over 200k on it. so, he's either gotta rebuild that or ....well....buy mine

thook

oh, do you either of you fellas remember the year the voltage requirement changed over on the injectors? i'm thinking it was until the second gen, but i just don't recall

wallytoo

iTrader: (1)

thook

thanks, wallytoo. i was just a tad off...lol! good new is he can use the injectors

drain plugs are so nice. i really can't see why they aren't a standard practice. otoh, i suppose a couple of reasons come to mind, but i was glad for one when i had to change a fuel pump in a parking lot one night. still had to drop the tank, but the plug made it easier to lighten the heft without real fuss.

thook

just updating...

my friend seems fine with $800. iow's, it's not actually settled on, but he didn't balk at it. so, i'm gonna go ahead and try to get it started. it'd be nice to know, of course, but mainly because it'll be tricky and laborious to get it out of the field without a 4wd tow truck and he's reluctant to go that route. his idea was a come-along and get it on a trailer towing it with his '87 4rnr. that'll take half the effin day. if i can get it running, i'll just drive it out of the field (though it's not actually road worthy), out of the valley we're in, and on to his trailer where the ground is more level. the trick will be to get around pump relay, if that's the problem. still don't know

scope103

Even though he's a friend, I think getting it to run is worth an hour or two. Whether or not he would bargain with you, HE knows that a non-running truck is pretty close to impossible to sell (I wouldn't pay $500 for truck I couldn't start, even if you showed me all the receipts for the rebuild). So he'll know that if you don't take what he's offering, you don't really have options.

Plus, if something goes REALLY wrong after he gets it, he won't be in a position to blame you.

thook

good points, scope. all that i've taken into consideration. around here, though, the 22re's are popular but scarce. so, i do have options....particularly if i tried harder. i'd have sold it a couple years ago to a different friend, but his son...who had the pick up to put the motor in...decided to do something different

like i said, i've been reluctant to do anything with it in terms of getting it started because my plate's already full. but, if you've ever tried to get a vehicle around with a come-along, you know what a pain it is. i don't have time or inclination to help him with that labor. if he had to go that way, he's out there in the field by himself or with a friend for the afternoon. so, yeah...just better and easier i try to get it running

on that note, got any best suggestions to bypass the COR?

old87yota

If you have not replaced the old gas in the tank, you will definitely want to do that before trying to start the engine. Engines do not like to run on old, bad gas.

To bypass the VAFM - COR circuit, you will need to jump the Circuit Opening Relay contact terminals in the connector or run a direct, fused wire to the fuel pump.

I was going to say just jump the fuel pump check connector terminals to turn the fuel pump on like the 1987 and up 4Runners, but for your model year, Toyota had the fuel pump check connector wiring run through the COR, and only bypasses the Vane Air Flow Meter. If the Circuit Opening Relay is the problem, using the fuel pump check connector will not work for 1985-1986 Trucks and 4Runners.

87-4runner

As much time as you've spent on the forum talking about how much time you don't have you might have already got it started and moved for your buddy, heck he's your buddy... cut hum the BEST deal you can and make a buddy a happy guy...

thook

the contacts are already jumped. did that years ago. if i hadn't made it clear, i'm not really sure it's the problem, but it's my best guess given what i know of the vehicle's condition. i guess i'll have to check it for continuity

i will be replacing the fuel. i know...they don't like old fuel. elementary, watson...hehe! i won't run ethanol, either