3VZE Cranking wont start
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3VZE Cranking wont start
Hi everyone I'm new to the forum and this is my first post on here. I picked up a 1993 T4R with the 3vze about two months ago, It's been great to me so far and has never had any issue starting up. Two days ago I took it into a smog shop to have an emissions test performed and upon completion of their tests, the truck will not fire up. Frustrated and confused as to why it so suddenly wouldn't start, I had it towed home. It cranks just fine but will not turn over. It starts for 1 to 2 seconds when starter fluid is sprayed down the TB but no more. I checked for fuel at the rail by disconnecting a hose and it seems to have sufficient fuel flow. I ensured spark is getting to the distributor by holding the wires about 1/2 inch away and it creates spark. Checked spark plugs and they seemed fine. While I was in there I ran compression and all cylinders read between 170-180. I've seen similar threads with people having similar problems to this but I haven't been able to find a sure answer to this issue. This one has me completely stumped as it was so sudden and the truck had no signs of any problems before this incident.
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Welcome to YotaTech.
Vocabulary! I think you mean it turns over, but it doesn't fire. Or, do you mean it turns over and fires, but doesn't keep running?
First, don't disconnect the high pressure fuel lines. Those two crush washers must be replaced every time. Cheaper than dirt, but a dealer item only. Or, you can just take the risk of fuel dripping onto a hot manifold ....
Instead, check for fuel flow by replacing the fuel return line at the FPR with a 1/4" (6mm) clear vinyl tube to a suitable container. With the fuel pump running, you should get about 1/2 liter/min. The fuel return is low pressure, so just hook it back up with the factory spring clamp.
Wait, what? Are you sure the fuel pump IS running? Starts-and-runs-for-only-a-few-seconds is the common sign of a COR-VAF circuit issue. Make sure all the induction plumbing (air filter) is hooked up. (Just how did you spray starting fluid into the throttle body?) Jumper FP to B+ in the diagnostic connector to force the fuel pump to run with key-on only. If it starts and runs now, you've located the problem.
Vocabulary! I think you mean it turns over, but it doesn't fire. Or, do you mean it turns over and fires, but doesn't keep running?
Instead, check for fuel flow by replacing the fuel return line at the FPR with a 1/4" (6mm) clear vinyl tube to a suitable container. With the fuel pump running, you should get about 1/2 liter/min. The fuel return is low pressure, so just hook it back up with the factory spring clamp.
Wait, what? Are you sure the fuel pump IS running? Starts-and-runs-for-only-a-few-seconds is the common sign of a COR-VAF circuit issue. Make sure all the induction plumbing (air filter) is hooked up. (Just how did you spray starting fluid into the throttle body?) Jumper FP to B+ in the diagnostic connector to force the fuel pump to run with key-on only. If it starts and runs now, you've located the problem.
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Vocabulary! I think you mean it turns over, but it doesn't fire. Or, do you mean it turns over and fires, but doesn't keep running?
Wait, what? Are you sure the fuel pump IS running?
(Just how did you spray starting fluid into the throttle body?) Jumper FP to B+ in the diagnostic connector to force the fuel pump to run with key-on only.
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Correct, when I sprayed the starter fluid I removed the intake hoses to expose the throttle body. Before then all of the hoses were properly connected, and after getting it to fire for only a couple seconds with the starter fluid, I reinstalled all induction plumbing before attempting to start it again
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Any progress on the problem? I am experiencing similar troubles. Truck was running great, turned it off for 2 minutes to speak with a border guard and it wouldn't start back up. I left it there overnight and came back the next morning to check plugs and fuel(disconnected 17mm connection on driverside of engine). Sparking and fuel is leaking when turned over. After that it started, drove it 10km. Parked at work, started 8 hours later and drove home. Next day it's dead and hasnt started since. Today I found a cracked hose on a part of the EGR system, taped that up. Also found middle wire on ECU 5-pin plug is worn through casing and wire is exposed but still intact. Also manually operated air flow valve in VAF with my hand while someone else tried to start, in doing that I noticed when engine is turning over the flap hardly opens but it is responsive. Not sure what its supposed to look like but even held wide open it won't do anything. Codes are reading 24 and 41 which are TPS and IAT. Any thoughts?
#7
Hi everyone I'm new to the forum and this is my first post on here. I picked up a 1993 T4R with the 3vze about two months ago, It's been great to me so far and has never had any issue starting up. Two days ago I took it into a smog shop to have an emissions test performed and upon completion of their tests, the truck will not fire up. Frustrated and confused as to why it so suddenly wouldn't start, I had it towed home. It cranks just fine but will not turn over. It starts for 1 to 2 seconds when starter fluid is sprayed down the TB but no more. I checked for fuel at the rail by disconnecting a hose and it seems to have sufficient fuel flow. I ensured spark is getting to the distributor by holding the wires about 1/2 inch away and it creates spark. Checked spark plugs and they seemed fine. While I was in there I ran compression and all cylinders read between 170-180. I've seen similar threads with people having similar problems to this but I haven't been able to find a sure answer to this issue. This one has me completely stumped as it was so sudden and the truck had no signs of any problems before this incident.
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#9
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Sounds like it had dirty contacts, or one of the wires going to the fuse had broken, cracked, something like that. Corroded contacts are actually a pretty easy fix. Pull the fuse out and put it back in several times. Maybe put a dab of silicon dielectric grease on the female side before you put the fuse in for the final time. I use that stuff on anything electric. Plug wires included. I works like a dream. Put some in every single electrical connection of any kind you open up. It's a small price to pay for the insurance it provides.
Obviously, a wiring problem would be harder. But if you're careful, it shouldn't be hard to identify the problem, and then repair.
Good luck!
Pat☺
Obviously, a wiring problem would be harder. But if you're careful, it shouldn't be hard to identify the problem, and then repair.
Good luck!
Pat☺
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