jjrbus

FSM says to set to TDC, forgets to mention on intake stroke, but got by that one.

Then after measuring first clearances to rotate engine 120 degrees to do next measurement. How critical is the 120 degrees, does it have to be dead on 120 degrees or is it close enough?
How would I measure the 120 degrees or make sure I am at the right spot?

scope103

Valve "clearance" is the distance between the rocker arm at rest and the base circle (smallest diameter) of the cam. On most cams you're likely to see, the base circle extends 180° or more around the cam. So you only need to be sure it's somewhere in that 180° arc. You don't even have to be too close to 120° per turn, and you can even assess, by eye, that the rockers are "loose."

When I adjust the valves, I turn the crank from below, after removing the skid plate. (others remove the shroud and the fan to access the crank bolt from above, but that's too much work for me). So I set the crank to TDC, and mark the BOTTOM of the Harmonic balancer with chalk. I turn the crank the first 120° from TDC (which I judge by looking at the cam), and mark the harmonic balancer again. Once more, and I have three marks "close enough" to 120° apart that I can whip through the whole valve setting (and checking) sequence.

jjrbus

Thanks 103, you are always helping me out!
Not knowing what I am doing I did the measurements a couple times and come up with the same #'s. so I should be ok.

I have a 93 Toyota RV 3VZE with 107, 000 on it, had the SSC head gasket done 20 years ago at 30K.

All my exhaust valves are out of spec, hope it has not been put off too long and done some damage? If the sheet is unreadable the worst exhaust are #4 and #1 at .006, FSM calls for .009-.013 for exhaust.

scope103

I don't think you've done damage. The reason there is any clearance at all is because stuff moves around when it gets hot, and I think .006 is still enough to keep the valve closed. (When the clearance becomes "too" small, it drops to less-than-zero when hot. Then the exhaust valve doesn't close, and it overheats and burns.)

Now, you will learn the joys of ADJUSTING the valves, which means swapping the shims. You'll need a tool like this. https://www.nationaltoolwarehouse.co...us-P53973.aspx (I'm told that some have done it without the special tool, but it's hard enough WITH the tool. Worth every penny.) You'll need a micrometer to measure the shims as they come out. And you'll have to find someone to sell you the new shims onesy-twosy. My otherwise excellent local dealer was no help, but I was able to get them from https://parts.lakelandtoyota.com/sho...rchString=shim Shipping will get you (make sure you order every one you need at the same time). Someone might have found a cheaper source.

jjrbus

Thanks for the response.
No damage, that is very encouraging. From reading, once the damage starts it is rapid and fatal.

I picked up the special tool and am ready to use it.

I have done a bunch of web searching and it seems most of the shim bargains on the net have dried up. Will be going to the dealer in a few days and see what they have to offer if anything, if they will help me with shims I will order all needed parts from them, if not I will likely order everything from Lakeland. Uhaul is also still selling them on ebay, so they may be a possibility?

scope103

If you find a good source, by all means let us know.

There are those who suggest pulling ALL the shims, measuring them, and figuring out just how to shuffle all of them to minimize the number you have to buy. OR, if someone is selling four of a certain size, you might figure out a shuffle that allows you to use four equal-sized shims, rather than buying several sizes.

A sort of Sunday-paper numbers game.