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02 4Runner e lock rear end ???s

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Old 02-14-2018, 07:27 AM
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02 4Runner e lock rear end ???s

Hello everyone. I know an 02 doesn’t come with the e lock rear end or even the option. I know the 96-00 did tho and my question is can I take one of those rear ends out of those yrs 4Runner and install in mine. I also wud have to get all the electronics for it also. Have read it takes minimal modification compared to having cut around the housing that I currently have, also has a tendency to leak after the mod is done. was very disappointed to find out that the 01-02 is basically an awd or part time 4wd. I almost want to sell it and start over but I know what’s wrong with this one(basically nothing) and what has been done Wud like to know what some of my options r. Thanks.
Old 02-14-2018, 09:09 AM
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Maybe keep looking until you find a complete rear axle? Seems like a complete locker axle doesn't cost much more (usually) than just the locker third member.

And it seems like *most* of the locker axles you find will be 4.30, and you probably have 4.10 on yours (???) so think about possibly regearing either the front or rear, or getting a matching 4.30 front diff.
Old 02-14-2018, 10:19 AM
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I have started a search for complete rear end and seem reasonable priced. Does it matter which yr I get?? Just want to make sure before I buy. As far as the electronics for the locker, my main harness shud have the ends to connect the switch and the harness from the rear end to inside the cab??that is what I had read and again just asking make sure info is correct. I wud also need the ecu for it. As far as my current gearing, how do u tell what gearing it is? I’m thinking I have 4.10s.
Old 02-14-2018, 12:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Stewie runner
Hello everyone. I know an 02 doesn’t come with the e lock rear end or even the option. I know the 96-00 did tho and my question is can I take one of those rear ends out of those yrs 4Runner and install in mine. I also wud have to get all the electronics for it also. Have read it takes minimal modification compared to having cut around the housing that I currently have, also has a tendency to leak after the mod is done. was very disappointed to find out that the 01-02 is basically an awd or part time 4wd. I almost want to sell it and start over but I know what’s wrong with this one(basically nothing) and what has been done Wud like to know what some of my options r. Thanks.
Stew-
Your V6 8" rear is the perfect candidate for a Harrop elocker #9334.
BETTER than the factory elocker from what I know about both.
Pull your 3rd....send it my way....and I'll add the 9334 in.
ZUK
Old 02-14-2018, 12:16 PM
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If you go with oe you may be interested in
BigFishAllDay's thread on the subject starting post 529 http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-ge...ml#post1038490 .
I also put an elocker axle in my 96, which didn't have the computer or wiring for one, that's in my build thread.
JWaldz http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-ge...er-wiring.html

Last edited by habanero; 02-14-2018 at 12:20 PM.
Old 02-15-2018, 06:43 AM
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It all depends on what you are wanting to do with your Runner, but no reason to sell an entire vehicle. I have an 01 and do a moderate amount of off-road driving as well as extended travel and have never come to a point to where I said "I wish I had a locker". I have used multi-mode numerous times and is nice to have. As for 4lo, it has gotten me through anything I have ever needed it for.

As for adding a locker, I am in the process of doing this and decided on doing an entire axle swap from a 97' 4runner. I decided on this route as this is the most cost effective route I found after a lot of research through multiple forums.
4:30 Axle with e locker and wiring was $250 and is essentially plug & play. Now just searching for a good deal on a front diff w/ 4:30.
Old 02-15-2018, 08:43 AM
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Thanks zuk but that’s alil more than I want to spend on the whole rear end project but if I can’t find a complete rear end with locker at least I know there is another option
habanero thanks also for the links to look at to help some of my questions and you in the shirt I don’t even have multi mode all I got is that center dif lock and I live in an area with a lot of snow and ice and get stuck to often and can’t stand the one wheel wonder where it is. Lol. Also. I want to know who u know cuz a complete rear end is goin for at 800 alone with out any electronics. Just curious where u had found that end. U also say it pretty much plug and play, so does the main harness have the ends to connect the factory switch and the harness from the locker to inside the cab and hook up. Same with the ecu for it. ??
Old 02-15-2018, 09:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Stewie runner
Thanks zuk but that’s alil more than I want to spend on the whole rear end project but if I can’t find a complete rear end with locker at least I know there is another option
habanero thanks also for the links to look at to help some of my questions and you in the shirt I don’t even have multi mode all I got is that center dif lock and I live in an area with a lot of snow and ice and get stuck to often and can’t stand the one wheel wonder where it is. Lol. Also. I want to know who u know cuz a complete rear end is goin for at 800 alone with out any electronics. Just curious where u had found that end. U also say it pretty much plug and play, so does the main harness have the ends to connect the factory switch and the harness from the locker to inside the cab and hook up. Same with the ecu for it. ??
Not the type of plug & play I was referring to. I little modification will need to be done to harness to wire it up. Sonoran Steel and t4r have 2 very good write up for wiring that I will be using and following.
As for the axle, minus the few maintenance item I will be performing, it will go in without modification needed.

I used car-part.com for the axle.
Old 02-15-2018, 11:05 AM
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I read the Sonoran steal write up and this is y I’m intrigued to do this. I must of not understood correctly bout the wiring but I do remember something bout running a few wires but other than that was plug and go. That’s kinda y I’m asking to make sure
Old 02-15-2018, 12:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Stewie runner
I read the Sonoran steal write up and this is y I’m intrigued to do this. I must of not understood correctly bout the wiring but I do remember something bout running a few wires but other than that was plug and go. That’s kinda y I’m asking to make sure
that is what I have found out and the reason of going e locker instead of arb. Good luck.
Old 02-16-2018, 07:14 AM
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FWIW swapping the front diff (presumably to 4.30) is more of a PITA than swapping the entire rear axle.
Old 02-16-2018, 07:22 AM
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Originally Posted by Jomoka
FWIW swapping the front diff (presumably to 4.30) is more of a PITA than swapping the entire rear axle.
There is no doubt about that. I will be doing this when I have my front end off for my suspension rebuild though.
Old 02-16-2018, 01:47 PM
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I was wondering bout the front dif and how hard it wud b to do!!! What ideally I’d like to happen is that I have 4.10s and I can find a 4.10 w/locker but I doubt that will happen. I already did my lift so I’ll b having to tear that apart again. Didn’t change drive shafts when I did mine cuz the still looked awesome yet. So that’ll b coming soon I’m guessing. It’s been almost 4 years since I did the lift(Sonoran steel 1.2). All good stuff everyone has posted and thank u for helping clear up anything I may have misunderstood. Anything anyone else can add that adds a level of difficulty I may not know of.
Old 02-16-2018, 04:17 PM
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I didn't have much problem with the few SS 1.2 lift components that had to be dealt with, hopefully you'll have the same experience.

I have a 1" body lift- even with that the front diff is a pretty tight fit because of the rearmost bolt. Having a cheapo Harbor Freight scissor-style tranny jack made a huge difference getting it up and in there. So worth it.
From my build thread:
'The axle is in. Tranny jack worked a charm, it did almost feel like cheating. It's still a tight fit and a bit of a wiggling to get it in, but so much easier.

The rear axle mount nut circled is the big annoying troublemaker. Getting it out entails unscrewing the nut from underneath (was able to use a large torque bit without trouble though it appears more to be a hex. After you get the weird nut off the bolt on the mount has to be lifted up out of the cross member all the while trying to puzzle the axle forward and down out of its spot. I took off the 2 front mount brackets for a little extra room. They are back on in this pic, though one is bolted on (see the dif drop) and one is hanging in the breeze.
Also taking off the lines attached to the top of the axle with 2 bolts before pulling the axle (tight fit) and attaching after mounting the axle (tight, but it does puzzle in there without force) prevents them from getting mashed, bent and mangled.

'

Of course removing the CV shafts after the skids are the 1st and second steps.

Last edited by habanero; 02-16-2018 at 04:19 PM.
Old 02-20-2018, 06:18 AM
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Saw this today....*disclaimer* dunno your location or your gear ratio and don't have any experience with buying from xcmtb83 or know what he wants for it, also it was on a truck set up for off road, obviously dunno if it's been thrashed or not... post #25065
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-ge...ml#post2913871
Old 02-21-2018, 06:49 PM
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Originally Posted by habanero
Saw this today....*disclaimer* dunno your location or your gear ratio and don't have any experience with buying from xcmtb83 or know what he wants for it, also it was on a truck set up for off road, obviously dunno if it's been thrashed or not... post #25065
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-ge...ml#post2913871
thanks for thinking of me when u seen that post for a 4.10 elocker for sale. I pm d the guy no response back yet Anyone know anything bout yota yard out of Denver?? I sent them a part request form for a rear dif. See if they get back to me
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