Little Lucy 27

1988 4spd 22r pickup
I put in a new battery and now my truck won't start
I get the relay click but no solenoid
I tried to bypass but the spade is difficult to hook up a wire to, due to the connecting plastic shroud
geeeez......any ideas
ps I've read a lot but electric ain't my thing :/ I have a handheld remote starter but idk what to hook it to
please help a girl out
thank you

muddpigg

iTrader: (1)

i’m a bit confused? Are you have problem installed battery or remote start?

What is voltage of battery using a multimeter?

Little Lucy 27

I've hooked up a jump charger, still no luck so I don't think it's the battery. ....
regarding what's my problem. ...
both, kinda
I'm moving and the truck has to go with, lol
so starting with a handheld is ok for now until I can work out the actual issue
I tried to hook it up and I got sparks like 4th of July so I backed off
when I hooked the same remote to my 1968 IH I did not get sparks, which is why I backed off on the Toy

Little Lucy 27

I've hooked up a jump charger, still no luck so I don't think it's the battery. ....
regarding what's my problem. ...
both, kinda
I'm moving and the truck has to go with, lol
so starting with a handheld is ok for now until I can work out the actual issue
I tried to hook it up and I got sparks like 4th of July so I backed off
when I hooked the same remote to my 1968 IH I did not get sparks, which is why I backed off on the Toy

muddpigg

iTrader: (1)

what and where did you hook up to that sparked?

Little Lucy 27

the positive battery connection to the starter
Apparently THAT was not correct
I'm so sorry, the IH was very forgiving, apparently because I did it the same way. ....positive first then neg.......but the positive sparked a LOT (according to me lol) on the Toy
and btw THANK YOU! !!! for responding

Little Lucy 27

Was it something I said?

akwheeler

If your truck ran before you put the battery in you should check your cables and connections to the battery

Thommo Thompson

its possible your battery is in backwards!

92ehatch

With sparks like that i would check your fuses as well.

RAD4Runner

Easy. Here: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...l#post52367443

Like mentioned above ^^^...
Check connectors, Check fuses.
AND A picture paints a thousand words. Got one of your battery?

Yes^^^,
If you want to troubleshoot electrical problems, need a multi-meter. Spend $6 or so at Harbor Freight.

Little Lucy 27

Little Lucy 27

if I have a jump starter/charger attached is the battery voltage really important? It's a known working charger BTW
I bump started the truck. ....runs. ...all is well except that after installing a new battery it won't start with key . ..gggghhhrrrrrrrrr
seriously. ....I've repaired so many things on this truck myself that THIS FREAKING THING makes me crazy. ............I HATE electrical
thank you please be patient with me I'm special ed with electrical, sorry

Little Lucy 27

ps
I absolutely know that if I take it to a shop they are going to replace the starter /solenoid
which I do not think is the problem.......
it all began last year when winter set in the battery would be sluggish. .......charged it .....all was fine IF I drove it everyday. .....if not. .....sluggish cranking. ......charged battery ,cranked like gangbusters. .....so I said to myself "self. ....gonna need a new battery next winter:.....sure enough. ....first cold snap. ...sluggish cranking. .....had to charge the battery. ....started great with a charge. ....so. ..bought/installed new battery now. ......NOTHING! !!#!####!!! $#*(£%# Gggggrrrrrrrrrttt
HELP,please

muddpigg

iTrader: (1)

Running after jump starting is a good finding.

You need get a multimeter. As mentioned they are inexpensive. You need to measure voltage on battery. Then check voltage on battery when truck is running. Voltage should be close to 12.6v without truck running and 13.6 to 14.2v running. Without diagnosing you are literally throwing parts at a problem.

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

Battery replacement means the power wire was manipulated, this can alter its connection to the starter. Subtext: make sure it's (positive lead) clean and tight at the starter.

PS, you can do the voltage tests while cranking. At the battery post, versus at the starter's post. While cranking.

RAD4Runner

Please include model-year-engine-transmission-trim on your signature. Yes, they mean a lot and will save time asking and answering

Absolutely agree with you (Pls see my signature).
Connections should have bare, shiny metal tightly contacting bare, shiny metal.
Check the thick battery and where it connects to bottom of engine block.
Connections should have bare, shiny metal tightly contacting bare, shiny metal.

Put that remote starter, whatever it is, aside.

I REPEAT:
Please check that starter solenoid and starter motor are working properly by doing this.

ALSO, Please clarify. You say you hear a relay click? Your 22R has a starter relay? Where? Picture would help. Does it look like below?
This has been discussed over and over on the forum, but I will mention here again:

IF the truck has no relay, the current to energize the solenoid has to travel a loooong way and through multiple contacts, causing so much power loss that too little power reaches the starter solenoid to energize it.
Even if the truck has a relay, I strongly believe that it was wired wrong at the factory, unless yours is an exception, same as above happens.







To install a relay where there is none would cost about $30.
To fix a relay that is wired wrong would cost approx $11.

HERE.

Thommo Thompson

yeh a great deal of current xan be lost along the way with a non relay setup. by relay, OP probably means solenoid click i recon.

RAD4Runner

Agree 110%
Yes,Thommo, most likely the starter solenoid. That's why I always ask posted inquirers to include model-year-engine-transmission-trim on their signature.
Also I asked Ms Lucy^^^ whether her truck has the starter relay because all of the manual transmission from mid-1986 and later that I know of have it, but her's is a 22RE so it's quite an odd model.

Folks,
Yes, there is confusing terminology on relays/solenoids. In American brand lingo, they call the starter relay a solenoid. However, in my own electrical dictionary I define:
1) Relay - electromagnetic device operating only electrical contacts, but not operating any mechanical function. Examples: starter relay, circuit opening relay, headlight relay, efi relay
2) Solenoid - electromagnetic device that operates a mechanical function, and MAY also operate an electrical contact. Examples: starter solenoid operates the the gear to engage it with the flywheel (mechanical) and also opens and closes the starter contacts (electrical), vacuum switching solenoid valve has and electromagnet that opens and closes (mechanical) vacuum ports but has no electrical contact.

Little Lucy 27

Thank you all for your responses
I'm moving (shoot me, please) and it's below freezing out (arthritic hands) therefore I'm slow going on a problem that is really affecting my life at the moment. .....ghhhrrrr
YES it is the solenoid clicking
I did the jump wire, still....Only the solenoid clicks. No starter motor activity
I'm going to check the cables etc....AGAIN
I did clean the ground to the fender and the block. . No change
I put new terminal on the positive cable and cleaned the connection/posts
My multimeter is being finicky,so no reading yet. But I did notice that the interior lights go completely off when activating the solenoid. (Radio/clock/idiot lights etc)