GreyYota87

Hey there everyone! New to the forums and the toyota world. I picked up a truck that has a power draw. I narrowed it down to it coming from the alternator. With the alternator hooked up it's pulling 0.68 amps when tested. If I unplug it, the amps 0 out. I do know that the alternator has been upgraded to the gm alternator but unsure of what one it is. I've taken some pictures of the wires. The solid black wire was attached to the ground on the back of the alt, the plastic plug was plugged into it on top, and the red wire from the plug and the wire with the boot were attached to the battery output on the back of the alt.

I've been researching the conversion but a lot of the posts have broken links and missing images. But from what I have found it seems like this could possibly be hooked up wrong? Can anyone give me some insight on this topic and point me in the right direction. I'm also curious about where to tap into the ignition wire so things only turn on when the key is turned on.

GreyYota87

I'm looking at the wiring some more and I'm really starting to believe this thing is hooked up wrong. I'm adding some more pictures to the post so I can maybe get some more help. The wire that is connected to the yellow wire was plugged into the top of the alternator with the plastic plug with the red wire connected to the bat post on the alternator. The black wire went to the ground bolt on the back of the alternator (like I'm guessing it should in this case.) And the wire with the red boot that was connected to the bat output post on the back was connected under a little box. Hoping these pictures will help narrow down my issue.

muddpigg

iTrader: (1)

Looks like the 12si alternator. With this swap the the black plug only has 2 connections vrs the CS130 swap that have 3 wires in plug. Been years since I did the wiring for my CS130 swap and longer since I researched and compared swaps. The 12si combines the ignition and sense wires.

GreyYota87

From the looks of it, the alternator is the 10si. I'm not very good with electrical so I'm still learning. But from what I'm reading online is that with this swap, I should be using the white wire and yellow wire with both of them tied into the white plastic plug. Then run a wire straight from the alternator to the battery correct? What about the larger white wire that is connected to the bat post on the alternator already?

muddpigg

iTrader: (1)

can’t think of a single reason someone would go through the effort of converting alt to put in a 10si. But it’s possible. Definately research this some more. Several good write ups.

GreyYota87

I'm only going off of pictures I have found online. The plugs and air vents are slightly different on the 12si compared to the 10si. And thanks for the help.

still looking for more info though. I've been doing a lot of reading and searching but haven t really found my answer. Both the red wire and wire wire coming from the harness have been left unused. Black wire is to ground, yellow/brown is into the plug on the alternator, then from the plug on the alternator it goes to the bat post on the back. Can anyone else chime in on this issue ?

RAD4Runner

Measure current draw with ONLY the "B" wire connected to screw terminal and the small connector unplugged. If you have current draw, then you either have internal short or bad rectifier.

Find schematic for the car that the alternator is really intended for. Then it is a simple matter of translating into Toyota system.
EXAMPLE ONLY IS ATTACHED...

muddpigg

iTrader: (1)

And first google result https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...toyota-264252/

GreyYota87

ok I checked the power draw with only the battery cable hooked to the b post on the alternator. Didn't have any power draw coming from the system. As soon as the plug on the alt is plugged back in, the power draw comes back. Something with the yellow wire is causing this issue. Anything i should look for? Can I just tap into a different wire else where? And if i can, where is the best place.

GreyYota87

I've been through that thread many times. But I got this truck with the swap already done. And sense it was causing a power draw I wasn't sure if everything was hooked up correctly and what the wires do. I'm not going to make an account and post on a board for an issue I can figure out....im new to the yota world so I'm still learning.

muddpigg

iTrader: (1)

pics you posted are not very clear, looks like spaghetti with all the wires about. Do you have better pics of connection to alt; plugs and wire connection from factory to gm plug.

GreyYota87

Here's a better picture of the wires coming from the factory plug to the gm plug. I believe I've narrowed it down to it being the yellow wire causing the power draw. I'm horrible with electrical work..but I'm trying my best to learn! I'm really bad at reading electrical diagrams, so correct me if I'm wrong. The yellow wire runs along the front of the engine bay and into the fuse box. The fuse it ties into is the 7.5 amp fuse. Is this the wire that keeps the charge light off? Again sorry for being so new and asking such dumb questions lol.

muddpigg

iTrader: (1)

What year truck?

i’ve only done one gm alt conversion, mine. But yours looks like it was set up to sense as a one wire buy with a charge light. Don’t know that that is wrong but not how I chose to do mine. When the sense is before other load drawing circuits it may not charge at optimal voltage/amp.

When you say power draw when off is .68 but when you unhook it it stops. What are you in unhooking? Plug, main power, ground?

I don’t know that it would fix problem but a would rewire it and not do the pseudo one wire setup.

RAD4Runner

GreyYota87,

We may be thousands of miles away from you. If you want us to effectively help you really need to put us virtually in front of the vehicle looking at that alternator. (If you're in san Diego, PM me ). Get a clear picture of the alternator so people are not guessing what model it is, Draw a diagram on the picture showing which pin each stock wire goes on similar to my example above .

You mean you have drain through yellow wire even with IGN on>
There shouldn't be drain through the yellow wire. That wire only gets 12V when IGN is on, should only get very minimal flow when Charge fault light is on, almost zero when alt is working well because it will have 12V at each end.

I strongly-recommend you take voltage readings before doing anything else to be sure your stock wiring is good. (BTW, you did not tell us what year Escalade you're working on )
IF you have a 22RE , here's the stock charging system with suggest test points. : https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...l#post52094780

GreyYota87

Sorry for not having more details on the truck. It's an 87 22r. When doing the amp test I have the negative clamp undone from the battery and I'm using a meter. The key is off the entire time. If I have only the battery charging cable hooked up and the key off. I have no power draw coming from the system. As soon as I plug in the gm harness into the top of the alt, I start getting the .68 draw even with the key off and out of the truck. So just sitting there it's pulling power. If I only have the one battery charging cable hooked up everything works in the truck as it should and i have no power draw when the key is off.

I know the alternator is a 10si from comparison photos but I'll try and get some better ones today after work.

RAD4Runner

Yes, please. and Draw a diagram on the picture showing which pin each stock wire goes on similar to my example above .

RAD4Runner

Here's a post how to identify GM alternator:
https://www.americanautowire.com/vie...ed-alternator/

If you are absolutely sure, here is a post on 10si wiring. ..

The 10SI has three terminals (including those with a 1 wire regulator).

• The large "BATT" terminal which gets connected to your battery positive. (Or Terminal Post if your vehicle is so equipped).And a dual terminal connector. (Repair pig-tails for this connector available at any autoparts store. Or, salvage with alternator if pulling the alternator from a vehicle
• The #1 Terminal. (Marked with a "1" on the case)
  • This terminal is used to connect to the dash warning light.
    • For the warning light, a lamp is wired in series with a switched voltage source. During normal operation the lamp stays off. If the regulator is damaged, the #1 terminal provides ground, and the warning lamp will light. Usually.
  • This terminal is also active on 1 wire regulator equipped 10SI alternators

• The #2 Terminal. (Marked with a "2" on the case)
  • This terminal is used to excite the 10SI into operation. (3-wire 10SI)
  • It is connected to the battery positive.
    • For simplicity you can connect the #2 connector pigtail directly to the "batt" terminal on the alternator.
  • The terminal is present on 1 wire regulators. Used only for those that require the stock connector to fit snugly.

MY 2CENTS HOWEVER,
The "1-wire" alternator, based on ate few posts I've read, may not have a voltage regulator. Sure, it may perform better than stock Toyota alternator with a regulator but how reliable is it? It's like switching from a 4Runner to a Ford Explorer. Sure, the latter has more power but how long will it stay running?

But wait! it only outputs three amps more than the stock 22RE alternator (based on this). Not worth the trouble swapping into...

GreyYota87

So to clear things up a bit with everyone on this subject. Today I spent some time on the phone with RAD4runner trying to narrow down the issue. We do know that the alternator is a 10SI alternator.I tested a lot of the wires at the stock toyota plug (not the side that would plug into the stock alternator) as well as the new GM plug. The way the truck was wired was as following.

yellow wire (alt light) to GM pin #1
black wire to alternator ground
red wire (ignition) was blank
white wire (sense) was blank

Would the correct way be to wire the red ignition wire into pin #2 on the alternator. Or does pin #2 go straight back to the B post on the back of the alternator?

And if anyone that has done this swap or someone that would know the answer to this. Should their be a constant 12v at pin #1 and pin #2 on the alternator.

Hoping RAD4runner can chime in on what way talked about tonight and give some better information ( i suck with electrical!) to help get this narrowed down. It seems like the constant power at pin #1 is going through the alt light wire and draining my battery!

RAD4Runner

Hi guys, I'll post more details on how stock circuit behaves / test readings later.
However, biggest question with greyYota87's system is this:
Based on this post:
GM Pin 1 is equivalent to Toyota "L" = charge fault light. With ONLY B wire connected, this has 12V on GreyYota's 10si alt. Zero on my stock alt.
GM Pin 2 is equivalent to Toyota "IG" = excitation. With ONLY B wire connected, this has 12V on GreyYota's 10si alt. Zero on my stock alt.

muddpigg

iTrader: (1)

Started to Post something different but found this http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/toyot...1036405?page=3 within the 1st 10-15 post there is a mention of using the B post to excite the alt. Says that it kills battery when sitting. I would rewire alternator to not excite off B post. You have the wires already there from yota harness. Believe you could use red or white wire off yota to #2 on gm connector.